I am using some black iron pipe for a project and I need to ream out
the seam on the inside of the pipe. I was thinking of using my hand
drill and a 1" hander reamer. Will this be a hugh problem? If not I
have some concerns. If I start with the reamer in the pipe and pull it
out will the reamer bind in the pipe and break my arm? If I start out
side the pipe will the drill buck and poke out my eye?

Any help would be appreacited - I don't have any machinist tools or
skills. I only need to ream out the ends (about 6 inches) on about 8
pipes.

Thanks

Greg

Spiral reamer, or...video camera!



"ConcreteArtist" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am using some black iron pipe for a project and I need to ream out
the seam on the inside of the pipe. I was thinking of using my hand
drill and a 1" hander reamer. Will this be a hugh problem? If not I
have some concerns. If I start with the reamer in the pipe and pull it
out will the reamer bind in the pipe and break my arm? If I start out
side the pipe will the drill buck and poke out my eye?

Any help would be appreacited - I don't have any machinist tools or
skills. I only need to ream out the ends (about 6 inches) on about 8
pipes.

Thanks

Greg

ConcreteArtist wrote:
I am using some black iron pipe for a project and I need to ream out
the seam on the inside of the pipe. I was thinking of using my hand
drill and a 1" hander reamer. Will this be a hugh problem? If not I
have some concerns. If I start with the reamer in the pipe and pull it
out will the reamer bind in the pipe and break my arm? If I start out
side the pipe will the drill buck and poke out my eye?

Any help would be appreacited - I don't have any machinist tools or
skills. I only need to ream out the ends (about 6 inches) on about 8
pipes.

I have real doubts about your approach. I have chucked black pipe in a lathe and
bored out the weld flash but it's never pretty, the steel never machines very
well, and it takes a long time.

I suspect you will break the reamer, or wreck it, or hurt yourself.

Why don't you tell us what you are doing one step higher in your design? For
example, "I'm trying to add some tables to the side of my home-built
grill/smoker. I want to do it by sliding 1" tube inside the 1" pipe stand, but
there is a weld seam on the 1" pipe. Is there a better way, or a way to remove
the flash from the pipe?"

GWE

I am using 3/4 inch pipethat I am slipping into 1 inch pipe. The 3/4
pipe are used as pins in a "top" of a cart I am building. They are
welded to the frame. Some of the pipe does not have large seams and it
works just as I wanted it too, but other pipe has larger seams. I
tried a break cylinder hone, but there is too much metal for the hone
to work well. o the seam I want to remove is the inside ridge so the
3/4 iinch pipe fits into the 1 inch pipe with more ease.

Greg

I was afriad that everyone's advice would be that I would end up hurt
myself - hence the concerns I listed. Any other less dangerous ideas
(even is they are more work) would be great.

Greg

Video camera?????

find some one with a lathe who can chuck the pipe and either machine or
ream out the weld flash

If you try that with a straight reamer under power, we'll ALL want to see
the video. Have somebody turn off the camera after the ambulance comes.


"ConcreteArtist" wrote in message
oups.com...
Video camera?????

SPIRAL REAMER!!!!!

Got it - I don't have a video camera but I do have a web cam - so if I
went this way you could all see it live - maybe a new reality show -
"Metal Mania" - I could be a star!! (with a broken arm and a poked out
eye).

It doesn't look like that's the route I will take. The hone might work
- I will try it some more. I don't know anyone with a lathe - in fact
I have never seen one run - I've only seen them in a store. Now
there's a scary thought - buy a lathe and try it out - Think that's
better???

Thanks

Greg

ConcreteArtist wrote:
I am using some black iron pipe for a project and I need to ream out
the seam on the inside of the pipe. I was thinking of using my hand
drill and a 1" hander reamer. Will this be a hugh problem? If not I
have some concerns. If I start with the reamer in the pipe and pull it
out will the reamer bind in the pipe and break my arm? If I start out
side the pipe will the drill buck and poke out my eye?

Any help would be appreacited - I don't have any machinist tools or
skills. I only need to ream out the ends (about 6 inches) on about 8
pipes.

Thanks

Greg


If you only have to go in a few inches and don't have too many to do,
try a coarse half round file (in and out).

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

On 19 Dec 2005 18:01:43 -0800, "ConcreteArtist"
wrote:

I am using 3/4 inch pipethat I am slipping into 1 inch pipe. The 3/4
pipe are used as pins in a "top" of a cart I am building. They are
welded to the frame. Some of the pipe does not have large seams and it
works just as I wanted it too, but other pipe has larger seams. I
tried a break cylinder hone, but there is too much metal for the hone
to work well. o the seam I want to remove is the inside ridge so the
3/4 iinch pipe fits into the 1 inch pipe with more ease.

Greg


Hey Greg,

Still unclear as to "why" you need to do this, but...... would it
work if instead of removing the seam inside, you were to just grind a
flat or a very shallow "V" groove on the 3/4" pieces so they are
relieved at the seam position? Would keep the pipes from rotating
too, if it matters.

Good Luck.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

So would you think an angle grinder would work? Or something like a
dremel tool?

Greg

So would you think an angle grinder would work? Or something like a
dremel tool?

Greg

So would you think an angle grinder would work? Or something like a
dremel tool?

Greg

The 1 inch pipe basically forms the legs and the top rests on top with
the 3/4 inch pipe working as pins to hold the top on. It's so I can
take it a part without screws or bolts.

Greg

Greg, A lot of us learned about lathes by getting one and trying it
out! Some of us read the instructions first, some later. Some even got
a book about machining and read it first. In all cases, even those with
training, had to get their hands dirty and take a chance and hope they
didn't kill themselves or the equipment.

Maybe this is your time to get a lathe and make some swarf!

I have used the file method several times to get the weld bead off the
inside. That is about the only workable way to get rid of several
inches of it.

Paul

So a spiral reamer would be safe enough and I could use it in my drill?
Can you find a 1 inch spiral reamer fairly easy? I have seen spiral
pipe reamers for flaring the end of pipe but I don't hink I've seen one
that I sould use to run in a pipe. Can't say I ever looked for one
though.

Thanks

Greg

Thanks Paul - I love reading the posts here and I am sure more
interested in this subject than I was before. I wish there was a
machinist in the neigborhood I could learn some for before diving in.
If I keep moving in this direction I may just do that and look into
buying a lathe and killing myself, wouldn't be the first time. I went
into healthcare but I think I would have liked working a trade better.
Of course here in AZ it's too damn hot to work somewhere without air
conditioning and there aren't many trades with cushy indoor offices.
LOL.

Thanks

Greg

"ConcreteArtist" wrote in message
oups.com...
So would you think an angle grinder would work? Or something like a
dremel tool?

Greg

An angle grinder would be perfect to remove some of the outside of the pipe
you are using for a pin. A dremel would work in a few weeks
A hammer would work too. Just beat a scrap piece of the 3/4" pipe into the
1" and twist it out with a pipe wrench or beat on the 1" to loosen the 3/4".
A 1" bridge reamer turned by hand would do it really quick too.

"ConcreteArtist" wrote in message
oups.com...
So a spiral reamer would be safe enough and I could use it in my drill?
Can you find a 1 inch spiral reamer fairly easy? I have seen spiral
pipe reamers for flaring the end of pipe but I don't hink I've seen one
that I sould use to run in a pipe. Can't say I ever looked for one
though.

Thanks

Greg


The outside diameter of 3/4" pipe is 1.050". A 1" reamer won't help you.
You may be able to locate a 1-1/16" reamer, but I'm having a hard time
imagining you'll be able to do much with one by hand.

Harold

so where can i post a video of me doing it? drop box?

I'm not sure why all the cautions against trying this with a reamer,
because that's what I'd do. Not under power in a lathe, but by hand.

The big caution is not to feed too fast. If all he is cutting is a
single ridge, there will be a tendency for a reamer to pass the ridge
down in one of the flutes, then stall when the cutting edge comes up
against a long section of uncut ridge. At which point he will try to
back the reamer up a bit, which just may chip the cutting edge. Which
is why Tom mentioned the spiral reamer, which would certainly be
preferable.

If I didn't have the correct fixed size reamer handy, I'd use an
adjustable reamer, size "H", which will go from 15/16" to 1-1/16".
Being real careful not to feed too fast, using cutting oil, and
checking to see that the weld wasn't so hard it was buggering the
cutting edge. Holding the pipe in a heavy pipe vise and driving the
reamer with a big tap wrench. And did I mention not feeding too fast?

If I didn't have the right size reamer, I might consider making one
from a piece of drill rod, cutting and grinding the end at an angle of
30 degrees or less. But he'll probably find that he can pick up a used
reamer for the price of the drill rod.

Or, as Jeff suggested, use a half round file if he only needs a short
section done.

All of this depends on just how hard the weld areas are, but I think
it's worth trying.

John Martin

Go out and buy some seamless pipe/tubing. A lot cheaper than all this
aggravation. Wrong material for the wrong job.
Bugs

Yes I agree - I would have done that but when I tried fitting the pipe
in the store it worked fine. It appears that the welds are not
consisent enough to work all of the time, so now I am stuck with the
material at hand. That's why I came here for ideas because had I done
that first I probably wouldn't have this problem. So really I am
looking for a bailout. With only eight joints six inches into the pipe
I thought that I could find something that would work.

So at this point I ll try filing by hand as I don't have a hand reamer
that size. If that proves to be too time consuming I will seek out a
large enough sprial reamer and try that by hand.

Or I will try to flatten one side of the pipe with an angle grinder and
see if I can line up that side with the weld joint.

Does this sound like a good plan (safe and effective enough)?

Greg

So....Where in Az exactly are you? There are a lot of HSM in Az that might
be willing to help you out. And some of us are on this news group.

Mike
(Tucson)

"ConcreteArtist" wrote in message
ups.com...
Yes I agree - I would have done that but when I tried fitting the pipe
in the store it worked fine. It appears that the welds are not
consisent enough to work all of the time, so now I am stuck with the
material at hand. That's why I came here for ideas because had I done
that first I probably wouldn't have this problem. So really I am
looking for a bailout. With only eight joints six inches into the pipe
I thought that I could find something that would work.

So at this point I ll try filing by hand as I don't have a hand reamer
that size. If that proves to be too time consuming I will seek out a
large enough sprial reamer and try that by hand.

Or I will try to flatten one side of the pipe with an angle grinder and
see if I can line up that side with the weld joint.

Does this sound like a good plan (safe and effective enough)?

Greg

Can you cut down the pipe and find sections where the seams are
small enough to not cause problems?

ConcreteArtist wrote:
I am using 3/4 inch pipethat I am slipping into 1 inch pipe. The 3/4
pipe are used as pins in a "top" of a cart I am building. They are
welded to the frame. Some of the pipe does not have large seams and it
works just as I wanted it too, but other pipe has larger seams. I
tried a break cylinder hone, but there is too much metal for the hone
to work well. o the seam I want to remove is the inside ridge so the
3/4 iinch pipe fits into the 1 inch pipe with more ease.

Greg

According to WILLIAM HENRY :


so where can i post a video of me doing it? drop box?

I suspect that the total image size would be big enough so Steve
might eliminate it. There is a bandwidth limit on the site hosting the
dropbox, after all.

If you have a private web space offered by your ISP, you could
put it there for a while, and post the URL here.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I live in Chandler and work downtown. I only get a chance to 'play'
every other weekend so my progress is slow. I think I will be fine
with the file - I was just lazy and trying to find a short cut; one
where I would not get killed or maimed. It seems most metal workers
and machinist I ran across in my job had a scar or hunk missing from
learning by experience and I was trying to aviod that and yet be
creative. I'll post my progress when I try out the plan as advised by
the blog.

Thanks

Greg

I thought of that as a last resort because I would have to put the
pieces back together again and I didn't have much success with Humpty.

Thanks

Greg

Don't use lap-welded pipe - yes, it has a welding "flash" on the ID. Go
for seamless pipe - the ID is smooth.

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
. ..
ConcreteArtist wrote:
I am using some black iron pipe for a project and I need to ream out
the seam on the inside of the pipe. I was thinking of using my hand
drill and a 1" hander reamer. Will this be a hugh problem? If not I
have some concerns. If I start with the reamer in the pipe and pull it
out will the reamer bind in the pipe and break my arm? If I start out
side the pipe will the drill buck and poke out my eye?

Any help would be appreacited - I don't have any machinist tools or
skills. I only need to ream out the ends (about 6 inches) on about 8
pipes.

Thanks

Greg


If you only have to go in a few inches and don't have too many to do,
try a coarse half round file (in and out).

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

So would you think an angle grinder would work? Or something like a
dremel tool?

Greg

I think you misunderstood Brian's response.... instead of trying to
grind out the weld INSIDE of the larger pipe, simply grind a flat or a
groove on the OUTSIDE of the smaller pipe, so there is clearance for
the welded seam when the two pipes are slipped together...
Ken.

Yep - that was my understanding. I am going to try a flat file on the
inside first, but it that is too time cnsuming I am going to use the
angle grinder to flattten one side. Some of the flash is pretty large
so I might have to take quite a bit off. I wish I had looked closer at
the pipe and noticed how big and variable the seems were. I would have
saved myself a lot of grief if I had gotten seemless pipe. Home Depot
didn't have any - so out of sight - out of mind.

Greg