I have a 100 pound LP tank that is collecting dust.

I want to use this tank as a reservoir for compressed air.

I would like to remove the valve, and replace it with a
much lower restriction ball valve. I'm assuming the original valve
won't allow much air flow, and probably not enough for an
impact wrench

My grandfather says it is all but impossible to get those
valves out.

Are the valve threads sealed with something that has
to be heated to soften?

Is there some other secret to getting the original valve out?

Thanks,

Dave

I've used a couple 100 lb. cylinders as compressed air reservoirs. I had no
trouble removing the valve - its just 3/4" NPT thread into the tank. Strap
that tank down hard so it won't turn on you and just use a pipe wrench to
remove the valve. I wouldn't use heat = Boom.


Karl

On Mon, 24 Nov 2003 11:54:45 -0600, David A. Webb
wrote:

===I have a 100 pound LP tank that is collecting dust.
===
===I want to use this tank as a reservoir for compressed air.
===
===I would like to remove the valve, and replace it with a
===much lower restriction ball valve. I'm assuming the original valve
===won't allow much air flow, and probably not enough for an
===impact wrench
===
===My grandfather says it is all but impossible to get those
===valves out.
===
===Are the valve threads sealed with something that has
===to be heated to soften?
===
===Is there some other secret to getting the original valve out?
===
===Thanks,
===
===Dave
===


I removed valves from two 100# LP cylinders already and the biggest
problem was anchoring the tank to be able to jump on the end of a
cheater bar on a large crescent wrench, so I could apply a good jot
and break them free. I wrapped a chaian around it, and drove my truck
up on the chain until it touched the tank and also postioned a long
bar through the holes in the base for additonal holding power and just
jumped up and down on the cheater bar, and out they came.

I just did the same with some 20# old style cylinders as well.
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I've used systems which used the tanks with the valves as they are and
they presented no problems with the volume of airflow thru the valve.
Where you'll usually see the problem is in the line or connections that
people will put on, they try and use standard 1/4" connectors to run 3/4
or 1" impact wrenches. Don't cheap out and disappoint yourself, if you
are really going to run high volume consumption tools, then get 1/2"
connectors and equivalent or larger lines.
Remember the best air flow you get is at the end of the smallest
connection.

I used a home made wrench burned out and then ground to fit from a piece of
pipe. The lower end fits over the valve and the upper end has a through hole
for a bar and a cheater. As was said before, hardest part is the keep the tank
from turning. I used a couple of ratcheting carge straps for the hold back.

Johm H.

Mustmaker wrote:

from turning. I used a couple of ratcheting carge straps for the hold back.

I used a chain and a loadbinder. See
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/_2000_retired_files/ANCHOR.TXT

The "Sampson post" is bolted to the floor. The chain runs over the tank
and to a fitting at the bottom of the post. The load binder puts lots
of tension on the chain and friction does the rest.

Ted