I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason, they
decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a handle
attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these stupid
screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments (learning how
to count in 4's now) and who knows how many millimetres/rev (inch
leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm mostly venting
(perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do this???) but I do like
to make things easier for myself. There's nothing I hate more than to have
to fiddle around with a machine instead of with the part I'm trying to make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin

"Robin S." wrote in message
...
I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason, they
decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a handle
attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these
stupid
screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments (learning
how
to count in 4's now) and who knows how many millimetres/rev (inch
leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm mostly venting
(perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do this???) but I do
like
to make things easier for myself. There's nothing I hate more than to have
to fiddle around with a machine instead of with the part I'm trying to
make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin


Hard to say if it would be a solution in your case, but I've often silver
soldered a small handle on the tops of bolts so I didn't have to reach for a
wrench constantly. This, of course, works only when you don't have to
tighten them real tight. For example, I have a little Wells A-7 cut off
saw. The speed change is made by moving the belt, so the bolt on the motor
clamp received one of the handles. Saves a lot of time and effort, and is
adequate to the task at hand.

Harold

"Robin S." whined in the article :
...


Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.


Robin,

Stuff a snipped off chunk from an old foam earplug into the hex hole and get
on with life.

And always wear a hat, it helps develop character...........

( Cigars are optional )

--

SVL

On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 22:16:13 -0500, "Robin S."
wrote:

I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason, they
decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a handle
attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these stupid
screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments (learning how
to count in 4's now) and who knows how many millimetres/rev (inch
leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm mostly venting
(perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do this???) but I do like
to make things easier for myself. There's nothing I hate more than to have
to fiddle around with a machine instead of with the part I'm trying to make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin

Still need a tool but you could make up shoulder bolts, but you would
have the head sticking up. You could use a gob of plasticene or
something to keep the hard stuff out of the sockets. I just keep a
scriber handy.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Robin S." wrote:

I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason, they
decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a handle
attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these stupid
screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments (learning how
to count in 4's now) and who knows how many millimetres/rev (inch
leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm mostly venting
(perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do this???) but I do like
to make things easier for myself. There's nothing I hate more than to have
to fiddle around with a machine instead of with the part I'm trying to make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin

So what you're saying is, that you don't like "socket" headed cap screws?

Joe

Thanks, Harold. Good idea on the handles. I think I will make some to go
on the gib screws of my cross slide vice.

Bob Swinney
"Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Robin S." wrote in message
...
I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason,
they
decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a handle
attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to
move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these
stupid
screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments (learning
how
to count in 4's now) and who knows how many millimetres/rev (inch
leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that
doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm mostly
venting
(perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do this???) but I do
like
to make things easier for myself. There's nothing I hate more than to
have
to fiddle around with a machine instead of with the part I'm trying to
make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin


Hard to say if it would be a solution in your case, but I've often silver
soldered a small handle on the tops of bolts so I didn't have to reach for
a
wrench constantly. This, of course, works only when you don't have to
tighten them real tight. For example, I have a little Wells A-7 cut off
saw. The speed change is made by moving the belt, so the bolt on the
motor
clamp received one of the handles. Saves a lot of time and effort, and
is
adequate to the task at hand.

Harold

"Robin S." wrote:

snipped


Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes?

I'm assuming you're describing allen-head cap screws. If so, how about this:

Chop appropriate lengths off the correct size allen wrench, clean them and the
screws real good with solvent and glue the wrench pieces into the screw heads
with JB Weld. I'm suggesting gluing rather than silver soldering so you don't
have to worry about screwing up the hardness of the parts, but make your own
decision on that one.

That way you can use a nut driver or a socket wrench to turn those screws.
Depending on clearances, you can let the allen wrench pieces stick up enough so
that swarf can be easily whisked away to let the driver slip on.

Good luck,

Jeff



/rant

Regards,

Robin

--

Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"If you can smile when things are going wrong, you've thought of someone to
blame it on."

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...


"Robin S." wrote:

snipped


Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that
doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes?

I'm assuming you're describing allen-head cap screws. If so, how about
this:

Chop appropriate lengths off the correct size allen wrench, clean them and
the
screws real good with solvent and glue the wrench pieces into the screw
heads
with JB Weld. I'm suggesting gluing rather than silver soldering so you
don't
have to worry about screwing up the hardness of the parts, but make your
own
decision on that one.

That way you can use a nut driver or a socket wrench to turn those screws.
Depending on clearances, you can let the allen wrench pieces stick up
enough so
that swarf can be easily whisked away to let the driver slip on.

I don't know what JB Weld is, but a two-part epoxy can then be
removed (if nec.) with very little heating from a propane torch. Likely jbw
can, as well.
Actually, since socket heads are relatively deep, you could just
let gravity hold in a piece of hex, and let it be readily removable 9at
least in the vertical screws). Or maybe knurl/swage the hex at the height
of the cap for a little friction fit.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

Good luck,

Jeff



/rant

Regards,

Robin

--

Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"If you can smile when things are going wrong, you've thought of someone
to
blame it on."

"Robin S." wrote in message
...
I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason, they
decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a handle
attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these
stupid
screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments (learning
how
to count in 4's now) and who knows how many millimetres/rev (inch
leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm mostly venting
(perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do this???) but I do
like
to make things easier for myself. There's nothing I hate more than to have
to fiddle around with a machine instead of with the part I'm trying to
make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin

Take a hack saw and cut a slot that reaches the bottom of the hex, now you
can use a screw driver.

"Robin S." wrote in
:

I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason,
they decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a
handle attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant
and chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want
to move the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these
stupid screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments
(learning how to count in 4's now) and who knows how many
millimetres/rev (inch leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that
doesn't require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm
mostly venting (perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do
this???) but I do like to make things easier for myself. There's
nothing I hate more than to have to fiddle around with a machine
instead of with the part I'm trying to make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin




Robin,
Check out Reid Tool.
Something like this:
http://www.reidtool.com/store/store/...dProducts.asp?
idCategory=6413 is probably what you want. Although the page I pasted is
for Inch series, they offer metric also. We use these things all over the
place for adjustments. The handle disengages with a pull up, so they work
well where you only have limited radial clearance.




--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...

I don't know what JB Weld is,

no way

"Robin S." wrote:

I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason, they
decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a handle
attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these stupid
screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments (learning how
to count in 4's now) and who knows how many millimetres/rev (inch
leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm mostly venting
(perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do this???) but I do like
to make things easier for myself. There's nothing I hate more than to have
to fiddle around with a machine instead of with the part I'm trying to make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin

I believe that Shear Loc, the insta thumb folks make a
variety of knobs for metric screws:

http://www.shear-loc.com/
--
Regards,
Steve Saling
aka The Garlic Dude
Gilroy, CA
The Garlic Capital of The World
http://www.pulsareng.com/

Robin,
Check out Reid Tool.
Something like this:
http://www.reidtool.com/store/store/...dProducts.asp?
idCategory=6413 is probably what you want. Although the page I pasted is
for Inch series, they offer metric also. We use these things all over the
place for adjustments. The handle disengages with a pull up, so they work
well where you only have limited radial clearance.

Yeah, that's what I use if there's enough space, they're great.
--
Cheers,

--Mitch

errr...... ahem..... at the risk of sounding perplexed....
1 Insert Allen Key and turn in a counter-clockwize direction.
2 Repeate turning motion untill the errant bolt seems "loose" then pull up
and remove.
3 Carefuly inspect nasty cap screw and wag finger at it.
4 Go to junk pile, fastener supplier, bolt bin etc and find a suitable
replacement with more acceptable head.
5 Return to machine and inser replacement bolt - this time turning in a
clockwize direction.


In all seriousness though - replace them -easyer and cheaper than futzing
with them - also, the bolts used on the import maches I have seen are really
poor grade - watch the pitch - they may be metric

Tom


"Robin S." wrote in message
...
I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason, they
decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a handle
attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these
stupid
screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments (learning
how
to count in 4's now) and who knows how many millimetres/rev (inch
leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm mostly venting
(perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do this???) but I do
like
to make things easier for myself. There's nothing I hate more than to have
to fiddle around with a machine instead of with the part I'm trying to
make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin

On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 22:16:13 -0500, "Robin S."
wrote:


Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant and
chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want to move
the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Are you talking about socket head or hex head cap screws here?

Ya don't know JBWeld? Where have you been? Go look for it at the local
hardware store and enjoy it.
JBWeld is a hard expoxy that attaches itself quite well to about anything.
It is machinable after cured and does an excellent job for anything under
the typical 250F temp range of epoxies.

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works evevery time it is tried!

"Bob May" wrote in message ...
Ya don't know JBWeld? Where have you been? Go look for it at the local
hardware store and enjoy it.
JBWeld is a hard expoxy that attaches itself quite well to about anything.
It is machinable after cured and does an excellent job for anything under
the typical 250F temp range of epoxies.



Not always. I was making a threaded phenolic bushing for a portable
drill I was overhauling and, not having a piece of phenolic the right
thickness, I decided to laminate two pieces together with JB Weld. Cut
the thread ok and while drilling it, the two pieces separated.
Thinking I had overlooked something, I cut two new blanks and faced
them off, roughened them with medium sandpaper and carefully cleaned
them with lacquer thinner and glued them up again. Same thing happened
again, the pieces came apart at the glue line while drilling it in the
lathe, and this time I had let the glued blank set up overnight in a
warm place. Not wanting to waste more time, I finally found a piece of
material thick enough and made a useable one. JB may have its uses but
apparently it doesn't like cloth-reinforced phenolic.
Mike.

I have never really thought that much of the adhesive aspect of JB Weld.
If I want it to really stick somewhere I put in a pin and then put in the
putty. I once had an old air compressor pump which had some kind of
overpressure thing which blew out. I plugged it with JB Weld, blew right
out. Roughened it, repeated, blew right out again. Then I cross-drilled it
and put in a pin and then put in JB Weld, it's held for 12 years.

I used JB Weld when I molded a new gear tooth. I found that wax was a real
good releasing agent for it. The new tooth has been in service for quite
awhile now and is working fine.

Grant Erwin

MikeM wrote:

"Bob May" wrote in message ...

Ya don't know JBWeld? Where have you been? Go look for it at the local
hardware store and enjoy it.
JBWeld is a hard expoxy that attaches itself quite well to about anything.
It is machinable after cured and does an excellent job for anything under
the typical 250F temp range of epoxies.




Not always. I was making a threaded phenolic bushing for a portable
drill I was overhauling and, not having a piece of phenolic the right
thickness, I decided to laminate two pieces together with JB Weld. Cut
the thread ok and while drilling it, the two pieces separated.
Thinking I had overlooked something, I cut two new blanks and faced
them off, roughened them with medium sandpaper and carefully cleaned
them with lacquer thinner and glued them up again. Same thing happened
again, the pieces came apart at the glue line while drilling it in the
lathe, and this time I had let the glued blank set up overnight in a
warm place. Not wanting to waste more time, I finally found a piece of
material thick enough and made a useable one. JB may have its uses but
apparently it doesn't like cloth-reinforced phenolic.
Mike.

In article , Harold & Susan Vordos says...


"Robin S." wrote in message
m...
I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason, they
decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a handle
attached, a cap screw.

Hard to say if it would be a solution in your case, but I've often silver
soldered a small handle on the tops of bolts so I didn't have to reach for a
wrench constantly. This, of course, works only when you don't have to
tighten them real tight. For example, I have a little Wells A-7 cut off
saw. The speed change is made by moving the belt, so the bolt on the motor
clamp received one of the handles. Saves a lot of time and effort, and is
adequate to the task at hand.

I've done this too. We have a bunch of hoseclamps at work that
we use for shortstopping cryostat shafts, to keep them from
sliding up or down when the o-rings get frozen up. I got
aggrivated enough to take them down to the shop and spot weld
a large stainless washer to the flat operating shaft.

Another way I like to customize machinery is making special
purpose fasteners, which are cross-drilled and have a sliding
tommy bar going crosswised, held in place by a ball at each end,
pressed onto the bar. I did the hex head screw that adjusts
the pulley on the milling machine's power feed, and also the
tiny screw that clamps my saddle travel indicator on the
lathe.

I honestly think it's custom stuff like that which sets machinery
apart as belong to somebody in particular, that the tool is
being looked after and cared for. I love seeing stuff like this
in cars and motorbikes as well.

If this were his personal machine, Grant could consider doing this,
but because it's for work, he might simply turn up a thick plug
to fill the counterbore in the castings, and replace the allen
head screws with regular hex screws, slightly longer.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

"Robin S."

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that doesn't
require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes?

Would a ball-ended Allen wrench help?
How about just leaving an angled Allen wrench in the ones that get filled up?
You can smack its end some so it keeps tight.
FM

"Anthony" wrote in message
...
"Robin S." wrote in
:

I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason,
they decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a
handle attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant
and chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want
to move the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these
stupid screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments
(learning how to count in 4's now) and who knows how many
millimetres/rev (inch leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that
doesn't require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm
mostly venting (perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do
this???) but I do like to make things easier for myself. There's
nothing I hate more than to have to fiddle around with a machine
instead of with the part I'm trying to make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin




Robin,
Check out Reid Tool.
Something like this:
http://www.reidtool.com/store/store/...dProducts.asp?
idCategory=6413 is probably what you want. Although the page I pasted is
for Inch series, they offer metric also. We use these things all over the
place for adjustments. The handle disengages with a pull up, so they work
well where you only have limited radial clearance.




--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

I made round spacers to go in the counterbore so the handle itself sits
above the surface. I've done that on every machine I've ever worked on
where adjustments are frequent. Even have them on the mill vise stop.
Always amazes me how many people search fro the wrench to move the stop.

Gary H. Lucas

I buy 3/16 allen wrenchs by the score. Bound to be one nearby...........

Gary H. Lucas wrote:

"Anthony" wrote in message
2...


"Robin S." wrote in
om:



I have to work on Chinese/Taiwanese lathes at work. For some reason,
they decided to have every single clamping screw, that didn't have a
handle attached, a cap screw.

Cap screws are fine and dandy until they get filled up with coolant
and chips and I have to fiddle-fart around with them every time I want
to move the depth stop or compound or saddle clamp.

Of course, by the end of making a part, I'm super-****ed due to these
stupid screws and having to use a lathe graduated in .04mm increments
(learning how to count in 4's now) and who knows how many
millimetres/rev (inch leadscrews).

Anyway, has anyone thought up some kind of clamping fastener that
doesn't require a tool but fits into counterbored screw holes? I'm
mostly venting (perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why they do
this???) but I do like to make things easier for myself. There's
nothing I hate more than to have to fiddle around with a machine
instead of with the part I'm trying to make.

/rant

Regards,

Robin





Robin,
Check out Reid Tool.
Something like this:
http://www.reidtool.com/store/store/...dProducts.asp?
idCategory=6413 is probably what you want. Although the page I pasted is
for Inch series, they offer metric also. We use these things all over the
place for adjustments. The handle disengages with a pull up, so they work
well where you only have limited radial clearance.




--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email



I made round spacers to go in the counterbore so the handle itself sits
above the surface. I've done that on every machine I've ever worked on
where adjustments are frequent. Even have them on the mill vise stop.
Always amazes me how many people search fro the wrench to move the stop.

Gary H. Lucas