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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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TIG welding question
Hi all,
I've got a 180 A stick welding set, but it's AC only. I may want to weld stainless in the future, but am unlikely to want to weld aluminium. (Okay, I'm thinking of building a coffee roaster when I've finished the phase convertor project, and it would be attractive to build it from stainless). I've heard that you need DC TIG to weld stainless, is that right? I know where I might get an add-on TIG unit for my welder, but the guy said it was suitable for aluminium only. So here are the questions. If I want to TIG weld stainless, must it be DC TIG? If so, is it possible to get a small add-on unit which will rectify the current from an AC stick welder and enable it to be used for DC TIG? I don't have a picture of my welder, but it's pretty similar to this one I saw on eBay recently: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=7559244604 Mine is a little larger and has an in-built battery charger, and it's built by Cytringan rather than Oxford, but the current rating is the same. Whoever scored that set on eBay got a nice deal. I'm not eager to replace the set as it suits my stick welding needs and offers 100% duty cycle, plus I like it a lot. Is there any way to weld stainless without getting a second welder? Suggestions would be appreciated. Chris |
#2
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TIG welding question
On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 00:24:37 +0000 (UTC), Christopher Tidy
wrote: Hi all, I've got a 180 A stick welding set, but it's AC only. I may want to weld stainless in the future, but am unlikely to want to weld aluminium. (Okay, I'm thinking of building a coffee roaster when I've finished the phase convertor project, and it would be attractive to build it from stainless). I've heard that you need DC TIG to weld stainless, is that right? I know where I might get an add-on TIG unit for my welder, but the guy said it was suitable for aluminium only. So here are the questions. If I want to TIG weld stainless, must it be DC TIG? If so, is it possible to get a small add-on unit which will rectify the current from an AC stick welder and enable it to be used for DC TIG? I don't have a picture of my welder, but it's pretty similar to this one I saw on eBay recently: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=7559244604 Mine is a little larger and has an in-built battery charger, and it's built by Cytringan rather than Oxford, but the current rating is the same. Whoever scored that set on eBay got a nice deal. I'm not eager to replace the set as it suits my stick welding needs and offers 100% duty cycle, plus I like it a lot. Is there any way to weld stainless without getting a second welder? Suggestions would be appreciated. Chris Chris, I don't think you can tig weld stainless with AC. I tried by accident before and it weren't pretty. However, you may be able to stick weld it with AC. Call the weld supply and see if they have rod that would do this. ERS |
#3
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TIG welding question
I would expect you can AC tig weld stainless. I can't think of any
reason that you couldn't. But I know you can stick weld stainless with an AC welder. May not be as pretty as TIG. You can also silver solder ( braze ) stainless. It might be the best looking way to do it. Is the stainless fairly thin? Can you use a brake to put a flange on the edge and have a lap joint? You could use either propane or carbon arc. Dan C Is there any way to weld stainless without getting a second welder? Suggestions would be appreciated. Chris |
#4
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TIG welding question
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#5
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TIG welding question
Most of the time I use a wood stud with C-clamps to clamp sheet metal
to a steel channel. Then use a mallet to form a 90 degree bend. More work than a brake and not as nice looking but it works. Just start at one end and tap it over about 20 degrees and go down the line. Then come back bending it another 20 degrees or so. untill you can flatten it against the channel for a 90 degree bend. Works okay for 1 mm stainless. Dan |
#6
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TIG welding question
Yes, you can put rectifiers on a stick welder to make it DC for either stick
or TIG. I've done it. The usual problem is that with a bridge rectifier, neither stinger (or torch) nor groundclamp are really "ground" so the work can't be grounded. That really isn't a problem other than you need to know about it. You won't have HF start -- and shouldn't need it to TIG SS. Another big difference is that you won't have footpedal control -- but that may not be a big deal with SS. My DialArc 250 was originally used for welding SS silos together; came with about 50 feet of leather-enclosed cables and waterline -- and no footpedal! There was a switch on the torch handle, but it was just an on-off switch. So apparantly the guys that were doing that thin SS had no problem doing it without a footpedal. "Christopher Tidy" wrote in message ... Hi all, I've got a 180 A stick welding set, but it's AC only. I may want to weld stainless in the future, but am unlikely to want to weld aluminium. (Okay, I'm thinking of building a coffee roaster when I've finished the phase convertor project, and it would be attractive to build it from stainless). I've heard that you need DC TIG to weld stainless, is that right? I know where I might get an add-on TIG unit for my welder, but the guy said it was suitable for aluminium only. So here are the questions. If I want to TIG weld stainless, must it be DC TIG? If so, is it possible to get a small add-on unit which will rectify the current from an AC stick welder and enable it to be used for DC TIG? I don't have a picture of my welder, but it's pretty similar to this one I saw on eBay recently: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=7559244604 Mine is a little larger and has an in-built battery charger, and it's built by Cytringan rather than Oxford, but the current rating is the same. Whoever scored that set on eBay got a nice deal. I'm not eager to replace the set as it suits my stick welding needs and offers 100% duty cycle, plus I like it a lot. Is there any way to weld stainless without getting a second welder? Suggestions would be appreciated. Chris |
#7
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TIG welding question
Don Foreman wrote:
Yes, you can put rectifiers on a stick welder to make it DC for either stick or TIG. I've done it. The usual problem is that with a bridge rectifier, neither stinger (or torch) nor groundclamp are really "ground" so the work can't be grounded. ... Why can't the work be grounded? Neither side of the welder secondary is grounded and the whole secondary circuit is floating. How could there be any circuit to ground? I'm sure that I'm missing something - what is it? Bob |
#8
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TIG welding question
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message ... Don Foreman wrote: Yes, you can put rectifiers on a stick welder to make it DC for either stick or TIG. I've done it. The usual problem is that with a bridge rectifier, neither stinger (or torch) nor groundclamp are really "ground" so the work can't be grounded. ... Why can't the work be grounded? Neither side of the welder secondary is grounded and the whole secondary circuit is floating. Then you could. The secondary was grounded on the buzzbox I did this with. You are exactly right: float everything and then ground what you want grounded for the job at hand. |
#9
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TIG welding question
You can get add on rectifier/ smoother boxes as well as add on HF unit.
For some years I used this set-up with a Max-arc rectifier and Max-arc HF unit connected to a Pickhill (like Oxford) 180A oil cooled welder. It worked well but no current control for ramping. Both units were purchased in the UK 2nd hand. I think Max-arc themselves are long gone. The rectifier also contained a choke to smooth the DC. Christopher Tidy wrote: Hi all, I've got a 180 A stick welding set, but it's AC only. I may want to weld stainless in the future, but am unlikely to want to weld aluminium. (Okay, I'm thinking of building a coffee roaster when I've finished the phase convertor project, and it would be attractive to build it from stainless). I've heard that you need DC TIG to weld stainless, is that right? I know where I might get an add-on TIG unit for my welder, but the guy said it was suitable for aluminium only. So here are the questions. If I want to TIG weld stainless, must it be DC TIG? If so, is it possible to get a small add-on unit which will rectify the current from an AC stick welder and enable it to be used for DC TIG? I don't have a picture of my welder, but it's pretty similar to this one I saw on eBay recently: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=7559244604 Mine is a little larger and has an in-built battery charger, and it's built by Cytringan rather than Oxford, but the current rating is the same. Whoever scored that set on eBay got a nice deal. I'm not eager to replace the set as it suits my stick welding needs and offers 100% duty cycle, plus I like it a lot. Is there any way to weld stainless without getting a second welder? Suggestions would be appreciated. Chris |
#10
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TIG welding question
David Billington wrote:
You can get add on rectifier/ smoother boxes as well as add on HF unit. For some years I used this set-up with a Max-arc rectifier and Max-arc HF unit connected to a Pickhill (like Oxford) 180A oil cooled welder. It worked well but no current control for ramping. Both units were purchased in the UK 2nd hand. I think Max-arc themselves are long gone. The rectifier also contained a choke to smooth the DC. Thanks for advice. I'll keep an eye out for a used rectifier unit. Any idea what they're worth in decent condition? Best wishes, Chris |
#11
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TIG welding question
I vaguely recall paying £100 for mine in the early 1990s. Don't know
what they would be worth now, maybe less as TIG and other welding kit seems to have come down in price. You would have to check around your local welding supplier or keep an eye on ebay. I gave the unit to a mate on permanent loan but apart from testing it briefly with his buzz box, which I gave him when I got the Pickhill, he has not used it in about 6 years. Maybe i'll ask him if he wants to part with it. Christopher Tidy wrote: David Billington wrote: You can get add on rectifier/ smoother boxes as well as add on HF unit. For some years I used this set-up with a Max-arc rectifier and Max-arc HF unit connected to a Pickhill (like Oxford) 180A oil cooled welder. It worked well but no current control for ramping. Both units were purchased in the UK 2nd hand. I think Max-arc themselves are long gone. The rectifier also contained a choke to smooth the DC. Thanks for advice. I'll keep an eye out for a used rectifier unit. Any idea what they're worth in decent condition? Best wishes, Chris |
#12
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TIG welding question
David Billington wrote:
I vaguely recall paying £100 for mine in the early 1990s. Don't know what they would be worth now, maybe less as TIG and other welding kit seems to have come down in price. You would have to check around your local welding supplier or keep an eye on ebay. I gave the unit to a mate on permanent loan but apart from testing it briefly with his buzz box, which I gave him when I got the Pickhill, he has not used it in about 6 years. Maybe i'll ask him if he wants to part with it. Let me know if you/he does wish to sell it anytime in the future. No need to disrupt his permanent loan, but I could be interested. I can see that sometime I'm going to need to weld stainless, and besides, it would be a good skill to learn. Presumably this is a rectifier and a gas supply unit, but without HF, so you still have to contact the work to strike an arc? Did you keep the Pickhill for arc welding but get a full-blown TIG machine yourself? Best wishes, Chris |
#13
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TIG welding question
Its just a rectifier choke unit, the gas control is within the HF unit
so that was always last in the system and used for arc starting. I set-up a few jumper cables with Dinse connectors and so could swap from AC to DC and back in a few minutes. I did keep the Pickhill for stick welding and got a Hitachi inverter TIG with various bells and whistles. It will do stick and should do it very well but decided to keep the Pickhill for that. As I don't actually do much stick, as I would use that for 6mm and above fabrication, I have considered selling the Pickhill to free up space but its not worth much if anything to a dealer so I would sell privately. One of the local metals suppliers has had a welder in quite a bit recently to do work and he has a little thermal arc unit not much bigger than a lunchbox with him. Bit of a difference in portability to the Pickhill. Christopher Tidy wrote: David Billington wrote: I vaguely recall paying £100 for mine in the early 1990s. Don't know what they would be worth now, maybe less as TIG and other welding kit seems to have come down in price. You would have to check around your local welding supplier or keep an eye on ebay. I gave the unit to a mate on permanent loan but apart from testing it briefly with his buzz box, which I gave him when I got the Pickhill, he has not used it in about 6 years. Maybe i'll ask him if he wants to part with it. Let me know if you/he does wish to sell it anytime in the future. No need to disrupt his permanent loan, but I could be interested. I can see that sometime I'm going to need to weld stainless, and besides, it would be a good skill to learn. Presumably this is a rectifier and a gas supply unit, but without HF, so you still have to contact the work to strike an arc? Did you keep the Pickhill for arc welding but get a full-blown TIG machine yourself? Best wishes, Chris |
#14
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Quote:
you can weld stainless with the AC stick welder...308-16 rod works very well on AC... others such as 347-15 work on DC only what is the thickness of the material you'll be welding? |
#15
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TIG welding question
xkvator wrote:
Christopher Tidy Wrote: I've got a 180 A stick welding set, but it's AC only. I may want to weld stainless... Chris you can weld stainless with the AC stick welder...308-16 rod works very well on AC... others such as 347-15 work on DC only what is the thickness of the material you'll be welding? Most likely 2-3 mm. Chris |
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