Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Pete C.
 
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Default DRILL DOCTOR Grinds Tungsten Electrodes

Ignoramus6433 wrote:

I posted a message last night about how tungsten electrodes were hard
on regular grinding wheels. I was looking at various expensive tools,
diamond bits that did not quite fit anything that I had, etc.

Finally I realized that I already have a diamond grinding tool, a
drill doctor (model 750, IIRC). It has a little diamond grinding wheel
that is normall yused for sharpening drill bits.

I tried sharpening a tungsten electrode in it and it was completely
easy, painless, did not require me to press it hard against the wheel,
and took me very little time.

It's nice to know that I do not need to buy anything new.

i


Which way does it put the grinding marks? You have to keep the grinding
marks axial, not radial.

Pete C.
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F. George McDuffee
 
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Default DRILL DOCTOR Grinds Tungsten Electrodes

On Tue, 18 Oct 2005 13:35:46 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:

Ignoramus6433 wrote:

I posted a message last night about how tungsten electrodes were hard
on regular grinding wheels. I was looking at various expensive tools,
diamond bits that did not quite fit anything that I had, etc.

Finally I realized that I already have a diamond grinding tool, a
drill doctor (model 750, IIRC). It has a little diamond grinding wheel
that is normall yused for sharpening drill bits.

I tried sharpening a tungsten electrode in it and it was completely
easy, painless, did not require me to press it hard against the wheel,
and took me very little time.

It's nice to know that I do not need to buy anything new.

i


Which way does it put the grinding marks? You have to keep the grinding
marks axial, not radial.

Pete C.


Why? Old welders tale or has anyone actually tried it?

GmcD
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Pete C.
 
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Default DRILL DOCTOR Grinds Tungsten Electrodes

"F. George McDuffee" wrote:

On Tue, 18 Oct 2005 13:35:46 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:

Ignoramus6433 wrote:

I posted a message last night about how tungsten electrodes were hard
on regular grinding wheels. I was looking at various expensive tools,
diamond bits that did not quite fit anything that I had, etc.

Finally I realized that I already have a diamond grinding tool, a
drill doctor (model 750, IIRC). It has a little diamond grinding wheel
that is normall yused for sharpening drill bits.

I tried sharpening a tungsten electrode in it and it was completely
easy, painless, did not require me to press it hard against the wheel,
and took me very little time.

It's nice to know that I do not need to buy anything new.

i


Which way does it put the grinding marks? You have to keep the grinding
marks axial, not radial.

Pete C.


Why? Old welders tale or has anyone actually tried it?

GmcD


Ask Ernie on sci.engr.joining.welding

I believe radial grinding marks will negatively affect arc stability.

Pete C.
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Chuck Sherwood
 
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Default DRILL DOCTOR Grinds Tungsten Electrodes

I posted a message last night about how tungsten electrodes were hard
on regular grinding wheels. I was looking at various expensive tools,


Are you grinding thoriated tungsten? Is the grinding dust hazardous?
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Gunner Asch
 
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Default DRILL DOCTOR Grinds Tungsten Electrodes

On Tue, 18 Oct 2005 11:08:11 -0500, F. George McDuffee
wrote:

On Tue, 18 Oct 2005 13:35:46 GMT, "Pete C."
wrote:

Ignoramus6433 wrote:

I posted a message last night about how tungsten electrodes were hard
on regular grinding wheels. I was looking at various expensive tools,
diamond bits that did not quite fit anything that I had, etc.

Finally I realized that I already have a diamond grinding tool, a
drill doctor (model 750, IIRC). It has a little diamond grinding wheel
that is normall yused for sharpening drill bits.

I tried sharpening a tungsten electrode in it and it was completely
easy, painless, did not require me to press it hard against the wheel,
and took me very little time.

It's nice to know that I do not need to buy anything new.

i


Which way does it put the grinding marks? You have to keep the grinding
marks axial, not radial.

Pete C.


Why? Old welders tale or has anyone actually tried it?

GmcD



Sigh..ya..Ive tried it. And yes..it makes the arc wander all over the
place if you dont do it axially. I now rough radialy..then turn the
electrode parallel to the wheel and fine point it.

It was driving me nuts and I finally looked it up. Self learning Tig
has been a roller coaster ride.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner


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Chuck Sherwood
 
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Default DRILL DOCTOR Grinds Tungsten Electrodes

Are you grinding thoriated tungsten? Is the grinding dust hazardous?

It is not considered hazardous, but it is mildly radioactive. I can
always take this drill doctor outdoors.


Call me chicken, but I would not want to breath the dust.
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CAMCOMPCO
 
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Default DRILL DOCTOR Grinds Tungsten Electrodes

Not to be a dufus here, but just what is grinding "axially", I grind my
tig electrodes and would hate to think that the trouble I am having
welding Aluminum is because I am grinding my electrodes wrong.

Thanks

John

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Pete C.
 
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Default DRILL DOCTOR Grinds Tungsten Electrodes

CAMCOMPCO wrote:

Not to be a dufus here, but just what is grinding "axially", I grind my
tig electrodes and would hate to think that the trouble I am having
welding Aluminum is because I am grinding my electrodes wrong.

Thanks

John


The grinding marks need to run along the axis of the tungsten rod,
a.k.a. along the length.

Aluminum is tricky for sure. According to most references you're
supposed to ball the end of the tungsten when welding aluminum. You're
also supposed to use pure tungsten or the newer Lanthenated for
aluminum.

Various sources indicate you should grind it leaving a flat at the tip
and then run it on DCRP (I think) on a scrap of copper to ball the end.
Other sources say just point it like you would for steel and run it hot
on a scrap for a few seconds to ball the end.

The aluminum alloy and it's cleanliness make a huge difference in the
results. The AC balance control on the square wave TIG machines helps a
lot in overcoming surface oxide issues. The other thing that is a bit
counterintuitive is that you need more current on aluminum due to it's
thermal conductivity. You have to basically hit it hard and get the weld
done before too much heat spreads outside the weld area and turns the
whole thing into a puddle.

I'm certainly no welding expert (Ernie on sci.engr.joining.welding is),
but the things that I've welded (steel and aluminum, mostly TIG) have
all held together.

Pete C.
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Larry Jaques
 
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Default DRILL DOCTOR Grinds Tungsten Electrodes

On 18 Oct 2005 18:23:37 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
"CAMCOMPCO" quickly quoth:

Not to be a dufus here, but just what is grinding "axially", I grind my
tig electrodes and would hate to think that the trouble I am having
welding Aluminum is because I am grinding my electrodes wrong.


Could be. Axially means that it's sharpened in same direction as the
axle points. Pencil sharpening happens at roughly 90°, or radially.

It's easier to hold a rod sideways to a grinding wheel, but that
leaves grooves in the point. Those grooves act like steps and are what
make the arc jump according to the Welder's Handbook. (See, I can
actually learn from books.

Want one? Finch's book on Ebay for a buck (so far):
http://search.ebay.com/welders-handbook_W0QQfromZR40


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