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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Can you believe toggle switch rating?
I just got a 1/2" hole mounted toggle switch for my 20Amp 115/220V 1.5
HP motor (switch specs: 20 Amp 115/220V Max 1.5HP) but when this switch compared to a regular light switch with similar specs: 20Amp 115/220V it looks too small and flimsy for it's 20Amp 155V rating. You can hardly conect 12 gauge wire to it's terminals because screws are really small. My question: is switch ratig is a some kind of "peak rating" and you should always get higher rating switch? Thanks, Alex |
#2
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My question: is switch ratig is a some
kind of "peak rating" and you should always get higher rating switch? Absolutely. The NEC says that the motor full-load current must not exceed 80% of the ampere rating of the switch. Different switches have different contact materials - you want a AC Motor switch, not a general use AC-DC snap switch. Tim. |
#3
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Alex wrote:
I just got a 1/2" hole mounted toggle switch for my 20Amp 115/220V 1.5 HP motor (switch specs: 20 Amp 115/220V Max 1.5HP) but when this switch compared to a regular light switch with similar specs: 20Amp 115/220V it looks too small and flimsy for it's 20Amp 155V rating. You can hardly conect 12 gauge wire to it's terminals because screws are really small. My question: is switch ratig is a some kind of "peak rating" and you should always get higher rating switch? A reputable switch UL rated at 1.5 hp should reliably start and stop one. I'm not sure you got a reputable one, however. GWE |
#4
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Alex, more important that the cited rating is 'who made the switch' and
is it UL approved. I think you may have been scammed with a junk, offshore import! Fact is, a legitimate 20A switch should definitely accept 12 or even 10 gauge wire. Harry C. |
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