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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#41
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On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 12:32:30 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote: I do hope you get lucky and you find you can expose enough of the threaded portion. Judging from the 4-40 setscrew in your photo, I'd guess that the thread on the broken part (If it's US made) is likely to be 6-32, A banana jack from my goodie box measures as follows: Stud: 3.82 mm (.151") over threads, 0.8mm pitch. Could be a Chinese 8-32; an 8-32 nut fits but it's a bit sloppy. Std 8-32 is ..157 min OD. M4 x 0.8 isn't a standard metric thread, but who knows? Barrel: 5.70 mm (.224") over threads, 0.75mm pitch. M6 x .75 is a standard metric fine thread. |
#42
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Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 12:32:30 -0400, Jeff Wisnia wrote: I do hope you get lucky and you find you can expose enough of the threaded portion. Judging from the 4-40 setscrew in your photo, I'd guess that the thread on the broken part (If it's US made) is likely to be 6-32, A banana jack from my goodie box measures as follows: Stud: 3.82 mm (.151") over threads, 0.8mm pitch. Could be a Chinese 8-32; an 8-32 nut fits but it's a bit sloppy. Std 8-32 is .157 min OD. M4 x 0.8 isn't a standard metric thread, but who knows? Barrel: 5.70 mm (.224") over threads, 0.75mm pitch. M6 x .75 is a standard metric fine thread. Different strokes for different folks, Don. Every one of the standard sized banana jacks in my Hell Box has a 6-32 mounting stud, measuring ..136" over the threads. And, the bodies are aluminum, with steel 6-32 nuts on them. They look just like the ones on some of my old Heathkit test equipment. which probably hasn't been turned on in 40 years, but I just can't bring myself to part with them. Probably my survivors will stick it all in the box with me when they send me off to that great model shop in the sky. G I'm praying this thread will eventually reach a happy ending with the OP posting a photo for us to see showing the binding post area of his speaker restored to pristine condition. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) "Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented." |
#43
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#44
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Ned Simmons wrote:
"Slick as snot on a brass doorknob," Wher I grew up, central PA, it was a "glass" doorknob. :-) ...lew... |
#45
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Well, I finally got a good solder joint and the post appears to be
solidly connected. I can now move the speaker or insert the bananna plug without breaking the solder joint. It was matter of making sure that both ends were well tinned and holding the iron on the post for long enough to ensure that everything was melted together. If this holds I think I'll give it some mechanical stength by filling the area around the post with standard expoxy. My conductive expoxy hasn't arrived yet but I'm guessing that the tin/silver solder is a better solution from an electrical standpoint. Thanks for all on this forum who helped me out. I'm forever in your debt. Thankfully I didn't do any damage to my speaker while dremelling. You guys rock! Vernon |