Hey all,

I work in a shop that uses a table saw and there is a dedicated dust
collector attached. The pain in the butt comes in when turning them both on,
you have to turn each on separately and the switches aren't next to each
other.
The saw runs on 3 phase 240, the Dust collector is single phase 120 (can be
rewired to 240).
The saw has a magnetic switch with extra contacts.
I was thinking of wiring a female end of an extension cord into the saw's
switch to plug the d.c. into.
What's the preferred way of getting 120 or 220 single phase from the 3 phase
coming into the switch?

Thanks,
Eide

Hi Eide,
I don't know if it's acceptable but using the two low legs of the 240
circuit should get you 220 single phase. I've seen contactors,
however, which, although they have extra contacts, do not rate the
contacts high enough to carry enough power to run a d.c. These
contacts can, however, be used to operate a contactor which will power
your d.c. system. I believe this is the accepted method and will
probably get you through an electrical inspection.
I'm not an electrician so I'd suggest you find one.
Good luck,
dennis in nca

Hi, Eide.
My brother set his wood shop up so a remote control turns on the
Grizzly dust collector. I am sure it's run on 220v. Check the Grizzly
catalog or perhaps other wood working equipment catalogs for a similar
remote. He has it clipped to his shirt and punches it just before
turning on the table saw.

Paul

I work in a shop that uses a table saw and there is a dedicated dust
collector attached. The pain in the butt comes in when turning them both
on, you have to turn each on separately and the switches aren't next to
each other.

I'd just use a remote for the dust collector:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/sear...eywords=remote

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Thanks rigger,
I'll get my testers out and see what I come up with. I was hoping someone
had done something similar.
Eide

"rigger" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Eide,
I don't know if it's acceptable but using the two low legs of the 240
circuit should get you 220 single phase. I've seen contactors,
however, which, although they have extra contacts, do not rate the
contacts high enough to carry enough power to run a d.c. These
contacts can, however, be used to operate a contactor which will power
your d.c. system. I believe this is the accepted method and will
probably get you through an electrical inspection.
I'm not an electrician so I'd suggest you find one.
Good luck,
dennis in nca

--Woodcraft stores sell a remote on/off switch for just this
purpose. It clips to a pocket, so it's real handy. Can't remember cost but
it was pretty reasonable.
--As for controlling specific gates in a series of ducts there is
an electric gate system on the market but it's *really* pricey, plus I
think the idea of an electrically-controlled device in an area where
static might be a problem is a Bad Idea. I run my gates with pneumatics;
costs about $50.- per gate in parts. You'll need a pneumatic toggle
switch, some tubing, a double-acting cylinder with about 4" travel and of
course a source of compressed air. Looks kinda silly but works really
neat.

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Just another fart in
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : the Elevator of Life...
http://www.nmpproducts.com/intro.htm
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

--Oh yeah; forgot the link:
http://www.nmpproducts.com/exhaust.htm
--Pneumatic retrofit starts at Photo #7.

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : Just another fart in
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : the Elevator of Life...
http://www.nmpproducts.com/intro.htm
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---