I have a 4" 3-jaw chuck model 270-4072 from Enco. Their ad on page 158
of the catalog says that it has semi steel body and one piece hard
solid reversible jaws. This is a Chinese made chuck and came with two
sets of jaws.
I would like to add soft pads of UHMV or another soft material to the
jaws for gripping and not marring wood. I was thinking of drilling and
tapping the inside jaws to secure the pads with 2 screws to each jaw.
My questions:

1) Can these jaws be drilled and tapped? And if so, what kind of
drill/Tap should I use?
2{Can I bore the inside of the jaws with a carbide tipped boring bar?

Regards,

David Heidary

Or, pick up a set of soft jaws. They should be readily available and fairly
inexpensive...


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

David Heidary wrote: (clip) I would like to add soft pads of UHMV or
another
soft material to the jaws for gripping and not marring wood (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^
Why not just use CA glue?

David Heidary wrote:

I have a 4" 3-jaw chuck model 270-4072 from Enco. Their ad on page 158
of the catalog says that it has semi steel body and one piece hard
solid reversible jaws. This is a Chinese made chuck and came with two
sets of jaws.
I would like to add soft pads of UHMV or another soft material to the
jaws for gripping and not marring wood. I was thinking of drilling and
tapping the inside jaws to secure the pads with 2 screws to each jaw.
My questions:

1) Can these jaws be drilled and tapped? And if so, what kind of
drill/Tap should I use?
2{Can I bore the inside of the jaws with a carbide tipped boring bar?

Regards,

David Heidary

If you have 2 sets of jaws, 1 for OD and 1 for ID, then those bolt on
individually, if I understand correctly. Why not make some aluminum soft
jaws and then put plastic pads if desired, on those? Then you could just
replace them as needed. And I would not suggest UHMW as it is
self-lubricating. Maybe nylon would be better.


michael

Not the hard jaws, no drilling except a spade drill, not tapping, no carbide
boring bar, the interupted cut will break the cutter.


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"David Heidary" wrote in message
om...
I have a 4" 3-jaw chuck model 270-4072 from Enco. Their ad on page 158
of the catalog says that it has semi steel body and one piece hard
solid reversible jaws. This is a Chinese made chuck and came with two
sets of jaws.
I would like to add soft pads of UHMV or another soft material to the
jaws for gripping and not marring wood. I was thinking of drilling and
tapping the inside jaws to secure the pads with 2 screws to each jaw.
My questions:

1) Can these jaws be drilled and tapped? And if so, what kind of
drill/Tap should I use?
2{Can I bore the inside of the jaws with a carbide tipped boring bar?

Regards,

David Heidary

In article ,
Carmine Castiglia wrote:
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

David Heidary wrote: (clip) I would like to add soft pads of UHMV or
another
soft material to the jaws for gripping and not marring wood (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^
Why not just use CA glue?

Or, pick up a set of soft jaws. They should be readily available and fairly
inexpensive...

Easier with two-piece jaws. That way, you can even make your
own soft jaws -- of whatever material seems appropriate for the current
task.

Unfortunately, his chuck does not have the two-piece jaws, so
the first trick is finding out whether the maker offers them.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

In article ,
michael wrote:
David Heidary wrote:

I have a 4" 3-jaw chuck model 270-4072 from Enco. Their ad on page 158
of the catalog says that it has semi steel body and one piece hard
solid reversible jaws. This is a Chinese made chuck and came with two
sets of jaws.

[ ... ]

If you have 2 sets of jaws, 1 for OD and 1 for ID, then those bolt on
individually, if I understand correctly. Why not make some aluminum soft
jaws and then put plastic pads if desired, on those?

Note that his description said "one piece hard solid reversible
jaws", so he does not have the bolt-on ones. Essentially, what he has
is two sets of jaws extending from the scroll teeth up to the stepped
jaws. One ID-gripping set, and one OD-gripping set.

My suggestion is that he start by trying to get some two-piece
jaws to fit his chuck (if possible). From there, the options are a lot
greater.

Then you could just
replace them as needed. And I would not suggest UHMW as it is
self-lubricating. Maybe nylon would be better.

That sounds good.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Just the 2 sets of jaws made me think otherwise. With an ID set and OD set, why
reversable? If reversable, just need one set. Whatever, I agree it is time to
shop for a proper jaw set, or better, a real chuck.

michael

In article ,
michael wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

In article ,
michael wrote:
David Heidary wrote:

I have a 4" 3-jaw chuck model 270-4072 from Enco. Their ad on page 158
of the catalog says that it has semi steel body and one piece hard
solid reversible jaws. This is a Chinese made chuck and came with two
sets of jaws.

[ ... ]

If you have 2 sets of jaws, 1 for OD and 1 for ID, then those bolt on

[ ... ]

Note that his description said "one piece hard solid reversible
jaws", so he does not have the bolt-on ones. Essentially, what he has
is two sets of jaws extending from the scroll teeth up to the stepped
jaws. One ID-gripping set, and one OD-gripping set.

[ ... ]

Just the 2 sets of jaws made me think otherwise. With an ID set and OD set, why
reversable?

I think that it is a case of poor machining English skills on
the part of whoever wrote the ad copy for the chuck. :-)

I do have some truly reversible one-piece jaws on chucks. The
Unimat SL-1000, and the early 3-jaw chuck for the Compact-5/CNC.
Instead of the scroll teeth looking like this (bottom view):


[ (( (( (( (( (( ]

They look like this:

[ () () () () () ]

Resulting in less bearing surface when the chuck's scroll is forcing the
jaws outward.

If reversable, just need one set. Whatever, I agree it is time to
shop for a proper jaw set, or better, a real chuck.

Agreed.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

The jaw material isn't going to be easy to drill, and even more difficult to
tap. A carbide drill will probably allow you to drill the jaws.

You might consider making caps for the 2 jaw sets that mount securely with
set screws or another secure method. The caps could be a more easily
machined material.. brass, aluminum or steel, and then you could come up
with another method of attaching your softer material to the caps (hardware
or adhesive).

If you decide that you'll want to drill the jaws, you could make a thru hole
and secure your other material with a screw and nut. In considering the
addition of parts, you'll want to be certain that any mounted parts will
stay in place during operation.. nylock nuts, etc.

With soft pads in place, the inside jaw soft faces could be trued with a
boring bar and a HSS cutting tool.

If you have a supply of the non-marring material, you could just glue it to
(or wrap it around) the wood and remove it later.

WB
...............

"David Heidary" wrote in message
om...
I have a 4" 3-jaw chuck model 270-4072 from Enco. Their ad on page 158
of the catalog says that it has semi steel body and one piece hard
solid reversible jaws. This is a Chinese made chuck and came with two
sets of jaws.
I would like to add soft pads of UHMV or another soft material to the
jaws for gripping and not marring wood. I was thinking of drilling and
tapping the inside jaws to secure the pads with 2 screws to each jaw.
My questions:

1) Can these jaws be drilled and tapped? And if so, what kind of
drill/Tap should I use?
2{Can I bore the inside of the jaws with a carbide tipped boring bar?

Regards,

David Heidary

Both of my ? Miller Falls or Mill Falls ? - chucks 3 and 4 jaw that
were bought with or along with my sheldon at the hardware store in Ca in
'52
had reversible jaws. Both were different.

The Three jaw has two sets of numbered jaws.
The four jaw are reversible.

Martin
--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

If you can spot anneal the jaws, you may be able to drill and tap
them. As long as you don't anneal the scroll, they should still work
fine.

The soft pads should be made of aluminum or mild steel. It's the
smoothness of the surface, not the softness, that determines how much
the wood will be marred. If you are working with a real soft wood,
increase the depth of the soft jaws for more surface area.

In any case the standard 3-jaw metal chuck jaws are very unsafe to use
on wood because they don't have enough surface area to hold without
crushing the wood fibers.

If you don't have a lot of material to remove, make a toolpost grinder
with a dremel (or other die grinder).

Let us know how it works out. I've been thinking about adapting a 6
jaw scroll chuck for woodturning by doing the same thing.

p.s. You could also find someone with an EDM to make the tapped holes,
but it would probably cost more than several of the chucks.


(David Heidary) wrote in message . com...
I have a 4" 3-jaw chuck model 270-4072 from Enco. Their ad on page 158
of the catalog says that it has semi steel body and one piece hard
solid reversible jaws. This is a Chinese made chuck and came with two
sets of jaws.
I would like to add soft pads of UHMV or another soft material to the
jaws for gripping and not marring wood. I was thinking of drilling and
tapping the inside jaws to secure the pads with 2 screws to each jaw.
My questions:

1) Can these jaws be drilled and tapped? And if so, what kind of
drill/Tap should I use?
2{Can I bore the inside of the jaws with a carbide tipped boring bar?

Regards,

David Heidary

ed french wrote:
... the standard 3-jaw metal chuck jaws are very unsafe to use
on wood because they don't have enough surface area to hold without
crushing the wood fibers. ...

Ideally you would have collet-like jaws. I.e., each pad would be a 1/3
of a circle the diameter of the stock. You would need a set of pads for
each diameter of stock. If the stock diameter varies a lot this might
be impractical.

As far as mounting the pads - how about magnets? Make a recess on the
back of the pad and glue a magnet in. The magnet only has to hold the
pad until the jaws are tightened.

Bob