I have a question, I'm welding thin (1mm) stainless steel using a TIG
welder. I don't have any real experince with TIG welding, and I'm having a
heck of a time getting it to start the arc. If I up the voltage then I have
too much heat and burn through the metal. I still sometimes have a hard time
starting the arc, but I can start the arc. If I drop the voltage then no
matter what I do I just can't start the arc. I've tried the trick of running
the TIG tip down the metal and it sparks a little bit, but nothing else.
What am I doing wrong? Sorry for the bad explantion, my real area of
knowedge is comptuers not metal working, I do this as a hobby only, and I do
it poorly at that.

What kind of Tig Welder are you using?

"Zipper" zipper777ATcomcastDOTnet wrote in message
...
I have a question, I'm welding thin (1mm) stainless steel using a TIG
welder. I don't have any real experince with TIG welding, and I'm having a
heck of a time getting it to start the arc. If I up the voltage then I have
too much heat and burn through the metal. I still sometimes have a hard
time starting the arc, but I can start the arc. If I drop the voltage then
no matter what I do I just can't start the arc. I've tried the trick of
running the TIG tip down the metal and it sparks a little bit, but nothing
else. What am I doing wrong? Sorry for the bad explantion, my real area of
knowedge is comptuers not metal working, I do this as a hobby only, and I
do it poorly at that.

:-( I know, I know, I know, but it's all I can afford, and I had "some" luck
with their MIG welder, so I thought I would try it. It actually seems nicer
than their MIG welder it just doesn't have the higher starting voltage like
the nice ones do. :-(

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

"John D" wrote in message
.. .
What kind of Tig Welder are you using?

"Zipper" zipper777ATcomcastDOTnet wrote in message
...
I have a question, I'm welding thin (1mm) stainless steel using a TIG
welder. I don't have any real experince with TIG welding, and I'm having a
heck of a time getting it to start the arc. If I up the voltage then I
have too much heat and burn through the metal. I still sometimes have a
hard time starting the arc, but I can start the arc. If I drop the voltage
then no matter what I do I just can't start the arc. I've tried the trick
of running the TIG tip down the metal and it sparks a little bit, but
nothing else. What am I doing wrong? Sorry for the bad explantion, my real
area of knowedge is comptuers not metal working, I do this as a hobby
only, and I do it poorly at that.

With the higher priced welders you have a high frequency start and a
foot pedal to helps regulate the heat, as you know all of this
dramatically helps with starting the arc, otherwise you have to use a
strike type start, like with arc welding. IF you practice with the
"sctrach" start you can get pretty proficient and turn out some pretty
nice work, just maybn not at the 1mm thick like you want.

Not much info on starting procedure. My best guess would be to let the
electrode touch the work for a couple of seconds and lift off. Another
procerure would be similiar to striking a match. Don't worry about
comtaminating the tungsten, that's part of the learning process. It would be
great if you could see other tig machines at work possible at a local
college or welding shop.
Hope this helps..
"Zipper" zipper777ATcomcastDOTnet wrote in message
...
:-( I know, I know, I know, but it's all I can afford, and I had "some"
luck with their MIG welder, so I thought I would try it. It actually seems
nicer than their MIG welder it just doesn't have the higher starting
voltage like the nice ones do. :-(

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

I have the same machine and by simply touching the tungsten to the work for
a quick 2 count and lifting, the arc starts even at the lowest setting. I
have run beads on a coffee can with it after some practice. You may want to
start the arc on a thicker piece or on the filler and then drag it quickly
to the weld zone. The initial burst seems to like to blow through the thin
stuff even on the lowest setting. It is of the lift arc variety even though
it really dosen't say so. Also use a really small tungsten and toss the one
that comes with it.
YMMV
Glenn
"Zipper" zipper777ATcomcastDOTnet wrote in message
...
:-( I know, I know, I know, but it's all I can afford, and I had "some"
luck with their MIG welder, so I thought I would try it. It actually seems
nicer than their MIG welder it just doesn't have the higher starting
voltage like the nice ones do. :-(

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

"John D" wrote in message
.. .
What kind of Tig Welder are you using?

"Zipper" zipper777ATcomcastDOTnet wrote in message
...
I have a question, I'm welding thin (1mm) stainless steel using a TIG
welder. I don't have any real experince with TIG welding, and I'm having
a heck of a time getting it to start the arc. If I up the voltage then I
have too much heat and burn through the metal. I still sometimes have a
hard time starting the arc, but I can start the arc. If I drop the
voltage then no matter what I do I just can't start the arc. I've tried
the trick of running the TIG tip down the metal and it sparks a little
bit, but nothing else. What am I doing wrong? Sorry for the bad
explantion, my real area of knowedge is comptuers not metal working, I do
this as a hobby only, and I do it poorly at that.

In article , Zipper wrote:

I have a question, I'm welding thin (1mm) stainless steel using a TIG
welder. I don't have any real experince with TIG welding, and I'm having a
heck of a time getting it to start the arc. If I up the voltage then I have
too much heat and burn through the metal. I still sometimes have a hard time
starting the arc, but I can start the arc. If I drop the voltage then no
matter what I do I just can't start the arc. I've tried the trick of running
the TIG tip down the metal and it sparks a little bit, but nothing else.
What am I doing wrong? Sorry for the bad explantion, my real area of
knowedge is comptuers not metal working, I do this as a hobby only, and I do
it poorly at that.



Try cold scratching.

Sometimes as teh tungsten cools a very thin layer of oxide forms on teh
surface acting as an insulator.

If you scratch the tungsten on clean metal before trying to start the
arc, you will find the arc will start much more consistently.

Ernie,
Are you using a machine with a foot pedal?
Does it have a highfrequency switch?
Does it have AC/DC/ DC reverse?
Do you have argon or helium?
What shade # is the lens in your helmet?
Then, if you do get it lit, is the rod no thicker than the
tubing you are welding?
I have been TIG welding for about 30 years. There should be no
oxide on your tungsten, if you have a post-flow for your gas, and do
not throw any tungsten away, just switch to .40 if you have it. If
not, sharpen your existing piece to a point, like an icepick, almost.

your starting voltage should not effect starting like the high
frequency. Is there a frequency shift adjustment?
Are you using a torch with a collet setup, or a gas lens?(to hold
the tungsten) What size cup are you using? Do you have a flowmeter
for your gas?
Maybe you should e-mail me at

In article m, bmwsid
wrote:

Ernie,
Are you using a machine with a foot pedal?
Does it have a highfrequency switch?
Does it have AC/DC/ DC reverse?
Do you have argon or helium?
What shade # is the lens in your helmet?
Then, if you do get it lit, is the rod no thicker than the
tubing you are welding?
I have been TIG welding for about 30 years. There should be no
oxide on your tungsten, if you have a post-flow for your gas, and do
not throw any tungsten away, just switch to .40 if you have it. If
not, sharpen your existing piece to a point, like an icepick, almost.

your starting voltage should not effect starting like the high
frequency. Is there a frequency shift adjustment?
Are you using a torch with a collet setup, or a gas lens?(to hold
the tungsten) What size cup are you using? Do you have a flowmeter
for your gas?
Maybe you should e-mail me at



Sid.
Try to follow the threads.
I was responding to the original poster.

On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 22:59:01 +0000,
lid (bmwsid) wrote:

Ernie,
Are you using a machine with a foot pedal?
Does it have a highfrequency switch?
Does it have AC/DC/ DC reverse?
Do you have argon or helium?
What shade # is the lens in your helmet?
Then, if you do get it lit, is the rod no thicker than the
tubing you are welding?
I have been TIG welding for about 30 years. There should be no
oxide on your tungsten, if you have a post-flow for your gas, and do
not throw any tungsten away, just switch to .40 if you have it. If
not, sharpen your existing piece to a point, like an icepick, almost.

your starting voltage should not effect starting like the high
frequency. Is there a frequency shift adjustment?
Are you using a torch with a collet setup, or a gas lens?(to hold
the tungsten) What size cup are you using? Do you have a flowmeter
for your gas?
Maybe you should e-mail me at


What will cause a redish/orangish soot to be left on the weldment and
the area around it?

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

In article , Gunner
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 22:59:01 +0000,
lid (bmwsid) wrote:

Ernie,
Are you using a machine with a foot pedal?
Does it have a highfrequency switch?
Does it have AC/DC/ DC reverse?
Do you have argon or helium?
What shade # is the lens in your helmet?
Then, if you do get it lit, is the rod no thicker than the
tubing you are welding?
I have been TIG welding for about 30 years. There should be no
oxide on your tungsten, if you have a post-flow for your gas, and do
not throw any tungsten away, just switch to .40 if you have it. If
not, sharpen your existing piece to a point, like an icepick, almost.

your starting voltage should not effect starting like the high
frequency. Is there a frequency shift adjustment?
Are you using a torch with a collet setup, or a gas lens?(to hold
the tungsten) What size cup are you using? Do you have a flowmeter
for your gas?
Maybe you should e-mail me at


What will cause a redish/orangish soot to be left on the weldment and
the area around it?

Gunner


In TIG?
Bad gas shielding.
If you have soot like that your tungsten will likely be purple from
oxidation as well.

On Fri, 29 Apr 2005 19:04:26 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler
wrote:

In article , Gunner
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 22:59:01 +0000,
lid (bmwsid) wrote:

Ernie,
Are you using a machine with a foot pedal?
Does it have a highfrequency switch?
Does it have AC/DC/ DC reverse?
Do you have argon or helium?
What shade # is the lens in your helmet?
Then, if you do get it lit, is the rod no thicker than the
tubing you are welding?
I have been TIG welding for about 30 years. There should be no
oxide on your tungsten, if you have a post-flow for your gas, and do
not throw any tungsten away, just switch to .40 if you have it. If
not, sharpen your existing piece to a point, like an icepick, almost.

your starting voltage should not effect starting like the high
frequency. Is there a frequency shift adjustment?
Are you using a torch with a collet setup, or a gas lens?(to hold
the tungsten) What size cup are you using? Do you have a flowmeter
for your gas?
Maybe you should e-mail me at


What will cause a redish/orangish soot to be left on the weldment and
the area around it?

Gunner


In TIG?
Bad gas shielding.
If you have soot like that your tungsten will likely be purple from
oxidation as well.

Ill check the electrode. I found it rather wierd to have a thin
coating of this Stuff around the weldment. I was wondering if Praxair
gave me a contaminated tank. This town has few if any tig welders who
buy their case from Praxair..they prefer to drive the 40 miles to the
Other Guys. Better service, better price and better attitude.

The guy running the local outlet is only animated while ringing up the
sale, and if you are in the store .-5 seconds after handing your your
change..its "What the **** are you still doing here?"

Sorry..I got off track for a second..a minor bugaboo of mine...shrug

Gunner

"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child -
miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied,
demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless.
Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke

What will cause a redish/orangish soot to be left on the weldment and
the area around it?

Gunner

Mountain Dew fumes are contaminating the weld, before and after you drink
it!

Tom Gardner wrote:
What will cause a redish/orangish soot to be left on the weldment and
the area around it?

Gunner


Mountain Dew fumes are contaminating the weld, before and after you drink
it!

What sort of a wire brush would be suitable
for removing it (: