Hey guys, I was looking for some good information on soldiering and
brazing and haven't found what i'm looking for yet. Thought I'd just
ask here. If anyone has a good link please let me know, otherwise, I'm
curious what the difference is and what all the different types are of
each, what metals they are used for and what type of heat source is
necessary. Also when flux is necessary and what to use. I'm also
curious what would work, and be best to join two pieces of 1/4 inch
round carbide stock at a right angle. I want to make a custom 60
degree inside thread cutter that will mount in a router and cut threads
in wood. Maybe I should just grind a HSS round blank down instead.
Let me know if I'm going down the wrong path.

Thanks,
Scott

On 2 Apr 2005 02:12:13 GMT, Ignoramus9970
wrote:

On 1 Apr 2005 17:48:32 -0800, wrote:
Hey guys, I was looking for some good information on soldiering and

My lesson on soldiering is, far from commanders, and close to the
canteen.

i
A lot of good information at:

http://www.handyharmancanada.com/


Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Scott,

A good little book is "Soldering and Brazing" by Tubal Cain. Number 9 in
the Workshop Practice Series. I've got my own copy on order - I'm sick
of the local library sending me overdue notices g.

There are one or two other books with exactly the same title, by other
authors. I don't know anything about them, but Tubal Cain's books are
good, practical productions - and cheap into the bargain.

Another book by the same author, "Hardening, Tempering and Heat
Treatment" is also a good little reference.

Roger



wrote:
Hey guys, I was looking for some good information on soldiering and
brazing and haven't found what i'm looking for yet. Thought I'd just
ask here. If anyone has a good link please let me know, otherwise, I'm
curious what the difference is and what all the different types are of
each, what metals they are used for and what type of heat source is
necessary. Also when flux is necessary and what to use. I'm also
curious what would work, and be best to join two pieces of 1/4 inch
round carbide stock at a right angle. I want to make a custom 60
degree inside thread cutter that will mount in a router and cut threads
in wood. Maybe I should just grind a HSS round blank down instead.
Let me know if I'm going down the wrong path.

Thanks,
Scott

wrote in message
oups.com...
I want to make a custom 60
degree inside thread cutter that will mount in a router and cut threads
in wood. Maybe I should just grind a HSS round blank down instead.
Let me know if I'm going down the wrong path.


You will not be able to cut threads with your router.

Why don't you ask what is the best way to cut __________threads into wood.
Also specify what kind of wood you want to thread and why you want to thread
it.

There is a lot of practical knowledge here and you need do is ask the right
question.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

On Sat, 2 Apr 2005 13:41:07 -0800, the inscrutable "Roger Shoaf"
spake:


wrote in message
roups.com...
I want to make a custom 60
degree inside thread cutter that will mount in a router and cut threads
in wood. Maybe I should just grind a HSS round blank down instead.
Let me know if I'm going down the wrong path.


You will not be able to cut threads with your router.

Tell Beall that. They've been selling a tool for that for years.
www.bealltool.com/ (though it doesn't appear to be up right now)


---------------------------------------------------------------
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what you can avoid altogether. | Dynamic Website Applications
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"rlincolnh" wrote in message
...
Scott,

A good little book is "Soldering and Brazing" by Tubal Cain.

Another book by the same author, "Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment"
is also a good little reference.

Are you sure the "Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment" book is by Cain?
On Amazon, the author is listed as "George Gently" (although that may be a
different book with the same title).

- Michael

Thanks for the input, but I'm pretty sure I will be able to cut
internal threads using a router mounted to the lathe. Here is where I
got this specific idea.
http://www.cuemaker.com/book_on_cue_...etools_web.PDF.
Also, I'm pretty sure the beall threading kit uses a router to cut the
external threads but a tap to cut internals. I want the threads to
come out being better than a tap will do in wood. Also, these will be
threaded after several hours of work on each piece, not to mention
money invested, so I want the lowest possible chance of damage being
done. I want to do this to build pool cues and woods threaded will
mainly be hard maple, but could also include cocobolo, ebony,
purpleheart, padauk, wenge, and more.

I haven't had a chance to really check out the link or book but it
sounds promising.

Thanks again.
Scott

Yes, Tubal Cain, I bought my own copy just recently. Do a google search
and you'll get several hundred hits.

Roger


DeepDiver wrote:
"rlincolnh" wrote in message
...

Scott,

A good little book is "Soldering and Brazing" by Tubal Cain.

Another book by the same author, "Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment"
is also a good little reference.


Are you sure the "Hardening, Tempering and Heat Treatment" book is by Cain?
On Amazon, the author is listed as "George Gently" (although that may be a
different book with the same title).

- Michael

Seems to me to be a lot of work to end up with internal threads in wood.
Why not cut the thread in a metal insert and epoxy the insert into the cue?
This would be a whole lot easier and stronger than trying to thread the wood
itself.


--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for the input, but I'm pretty sure I will be able to cut
internal threads using a router mounted to the lathe. Here is where I
got this specific idea.
http://www.cuemaker.com/book_on_cue_...etools_web.PDF.
Also, I'm pretty sure the beall threading kit uses a router to cut the
external threads but a tap to cut internals. I want the threads to
come out being better than a tap will do in wood. Also, these will be
threaded after several hours of work on each piece, not to mention
money invested, so I want the lowest possible chance of damage being
done. I want to do this to build pool cues and woods threaded will
mainly be hard maple, but could also include cocobolo, ebony,
purpleheart, padauk, wenge, and more.

I haven't had a chance to really check out the link or book but it
sounds promising.

Thanks again.
Scott

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
You will not be able to cut threads with your router.

Tell Beall that. They've been selling a tool for that for years.
www.bealltool.com/ (though it doesn't appear to be up right now)


You mean this:
http://www.bealltool.com/threader.htm

They use taps to cut the internal threads.

If the guy is going to make a pool cue he would be better off using a metal
bezel that would joint the two halves of the cue than to try and rely on
threading wood to give a nice tight fit. Every wood thread I have ever
seen has a whole lot of slop in it and that probably would not be ideal for
a pool cue. A loose fit between the front and back half of the cue will
dampen the energy you are trying to deliver to the cue ball.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

The metal inserts give the cue a different feel than the cues with a
pin into wood. I'd like to make a different shaft for a cue I own that
has a 3/8 X 10TPI pin in wood.

I will also need to figure it out if anyone wants me to build them a
shaft for such a cue. If other people can do it I'm sure I can figure
it out, plus that's half the fun. This is mainly just a hobby for me.


I ordered some 1/4" round HSS rod to grind into shape to try for now.
The guy in the link above says that HSS isn't rigid enough, but if it's
used to cut metal threads, i dont' see why it can't cut them in wood.
Maybe he didn't try it with taking enough cuts and doing that last few
without moving the toolholder to clean everything up.

thanks,
Scott

On Sun, 3 Apr 2005 08:11:31 -0700, "Roger Shoaf"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
You will not be able to cut threads with your router.

Tell Beall that. They've been selling a tool for that for years.
www.bealltool.com/ (though it doesn't appear to be up right now)


You mean this:
http://www.bealltool.com/threader.htm

It does appear that Beall uses taps for internal threads. I can
imagine a router-based tool or jig that could cut internal threads,
but it would take some machining. The basic idea would be that the
router bit would have the correct shape, and the router axis would be
offset and canted at the proper helix angle. The jig would then
advance the workpiece axially as it is rotated, thus cutting the
internal thread to the correct pitch. I expect this would cut
considerably better threads in wood than a tap could do because the
cutter would be running at high speed, removing only a bit of wood
per cut. Sounds like an interesting project.

On 2 Apr 2005 17:29:35 -0800, wrote:

Thanks for the input, but I'm pretty sure I will be able to cut
internal threads using a router mounted to the lathe. Here is where I
got this specific idea.
http://www.cuemaker.com/book_on_cue_...etools_web.PDF.

That should work fine. You might want to cant the router vertically
at an angle equal to the helix angle of the thread. That way the tool
will be following the path of the thread as it rotates, and the
60-degree point will really cut a 60 degree thread.