Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Irrigation system from lake
I have a house which is about 300 feet from a lake and would like
to take irrigation water from the lake. It is about a 10 foot rise from the lake to the house level. I would appreciate any comments on the following possible approaches. 1) Put the pump near the lake and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the house. This requires 300' of buried UF to the pump, which cannot be buried in the same trench. 2) Put the pump near the house and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the lake with a foot/check valve at the lake end. Have a spigot tap at each end of the 300' intake pipe for initial priming. (Using a garden hose and city water for priming) 3) Putting the pump halfway in between and running UF to the pump and 3/4 intake and output lines as needed, with foot/check valve. My preference is for number 2 since it only requires one pipe trench and no buried UF electric. I think that with only a 10' head and a check valve, it should maintain a prime.... Thanks for your comments on the above... Andy |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
In article . com, "Andy" wrote:
I have a house which is about 300 feet from a lake and would like to take irrigation water from the lake. It is about a 10 foot rise from the lake to the house level. I would appreciate any comments on the following possible approaches. 1) Put the pump near the lake and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the house. This requires 300' of buried UF to the pump, which cannot be buried in the same trench. 2) Put the pump near the house and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the lake with a foot/check valve at the lake end. Have a spigot tap at each end of the 300' intake pipe for initial priming. (Using a garden hose and city water for priming) 3) Putting the pump halfway in between and running UF to the pump and 3/4 intake and output lines as needed, with foot/check valve. #3 seems to have the disadvantages of #1 without the advantages of #2. My preference is for number 2 since it only requires one pipe trench and no buried UF electric. I think that with only a 10' head and a check valve, it should maintain a prime.... #2 looks better IMO... but I really think you'll want a larger pipe. 3/4" is awfully small for a hundred yard run. I'd use 1" at least. This is, for the most part, a labor-intensive job with modest materials costs (except for the pump itself). The difference in cost between 3/4" and 1 1/4" isn't all that great, and there's no extra difficulty in laying the larger pipe. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
"Andy" wrote in message ups.com... I have a house which is about 300 feet from a lake and would like to take irrigation water from the lake. It is about a 10 foot rise from the lake to the house level. I would appreciate any comments on the following possible approaches. Some thoughts... 1) Pumps push better than they pull. 2) You can buy a pump with a gasoline engine, and run it when you need - this eliminates an electrical trench, but probably reduces the convenience of use. 3) If I was you, I'd go with your first option. KB |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
"Andy" wrote in message 1) Put the pump near the lake and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the house. This requires 300' of buried UF to the pump, which cannot be buried in the same trench. Still the best option. 2) Put the pump near the house and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the lake with a foot/check valve at the lake end. Foot valves stick open, get clogged. Pumps to not pull very well if they lose their prime. IMO, in the long run you will n ot be happy with this setup. I think that with only a 10' head and a check valve, it should maintain a prime.... Looks good on paper, but get one tiny pebble in the foot valve and this theory no longer works. I know, you'll have a strainer. Eventually things get by it, seals wear. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Doug Miller wrote:
...3/4" is awfully small for a hundred yard run. The Hazen-Williams equation says 300' of 0.75" smooth pipe with a 5 gpm flow has a 0.0004227x300x5^1.852x0.75^-4.871 = 10 psi pressure loss... 1" makes 2.5 psi, 1.25 makes 0.84, and 1.5 makes 0.347. If one end of the pipe is always under lake water and the flow is shut off while the pipe is full and the pump runs every week or two, this might work fine with a leaky foot valve. Nick |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Andy wrote:
I have a house which is about 300 feet from a lake and would like to take irrigation water from the lake. It is about a 10 foot rise from the lake to the house level. I would appreciate any comments on the following possible approaches. 1) Put the pump near the lake and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the house. This requires 300' of buried UF to the pump, which cannot be buried in the same trench. 2) Put the pump near the house and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the lake with a foot/check valve at the lake end. Have a spigot tap at each end of the 300' intake pipe for initial priming. (Using a garden hose and city water for priming) 3) Putting the pump halfway in between and running UF to the pump and 3/4 intake and output lines as needed, with foot/check valve. My preference is for number 2 since it only requires one pipe trench and no buried UF electric. I think that with only a 10' head and a check valve, it should maintain a prime.... Thanks for your comments on the above... Andy Hi, Before anyting else, can you draw water from the lake? Is it allowed? Tony |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Who's going to know it if you do it right?
"Tony Hwang" wrote in message news:yaY0e.786966$6l.461220@pd7tw2no... Andy wrote: I have a house which is about 300 feet from a lake and would like to take irrigation water from the lake. It is about a 10 foot rise from the lake to the house level. I would appreciate any comments on the following possible approaches. 1) Put the pump near the lake and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the house. This requires 300' of buried UF to the pump, which cannot be buried in the same trench. 2) Put the pump near the house and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the lake with a foot/check valve at the lake end. Have a spigot tap at each end of the 300' intake pipe for initial priming. (Using a garden hose and city water for priming) 3) Putting the pump halfway in between and running UF to the pump and 3/4 intake and output lines as needed, with foot/check valve. My preference is for number 2 since it only requires one pipe trench and no buried UF electric. I think that with only a 10' head and a check valve, it should maintain a prime.... Thanks for your comments on the above... Andy Hi, Before anyting else, can you draw water from the lake? Is it allowed? Tony |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Sam wrote:
Who's going to know it if you do it right? "Tony Hwang" wrote in message news:yaY0e.786966$6l.461220@pd7tw2no... Andy wrote: I have a house which is about 300 feet from a lake and would like to take irrigation water from the lake. It is about a 10 foot rise from the lake to the house level. I would appreciate any comments on the following possible approaches. 1) Put the pump near the lake and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the house. This requires 300' of buried UF to the pump, which cannot be buried in the same trench. 2) Put the pump near the house and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the lake with a foot/check valve at the lake end. Have a spigot tap at each end of the 300' intake pipe for initial priming. (Using a garden hose and city water for priming) 3) Putting the pump halfway in between and running UF to the pump and 3/4 intake and output lines as needed, with foot/check valve. My preference is for number 2 since it only requires one pipe trench and no buried UF electric. I think that with only a 10' head and a check valve, it should maintain a prime.... Thanks for your comments on the above... Andy Hi, Before anyting else, can you draw water from the lake? Is it allowed? Tony Hi, Know? Environmental concerns for one. If everyone starts drawing water, the lake may disappear over time. It happened where I live. A big lake disappeared from too much acerage development. No more water in the lake. Tony |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
The pump needs to be as close to the source of the water as possibe, I
recommend no further than 10 feet from the source (can have longer pipe out into the lake as long as not out of the water) If there is access to do so I would have the electic utility run a seperate line and meter to that location with an outside breaker box to run the pump. They would need access to read the meter, must be a sutable drive. If that is possible, I would then run a low voltage wire pair to the pump to control a pump relay. I would run 12-10 size wire for that distance. There may be some sort of radio control options that would work. I would go with a high volume/low pressure pump of about 1-1/2 hp and run a 1-1/2 to 2in line to reduce friction. Really depends on what your water demands will be. Also filter the water real good if using any gear driven sprinklers, sprays or drip. If need more pressure can always install another pump of same type at the other end for boost, about a 1 hp should do. MC "Andy" wrote in message ups.com... I have a house which is about 300 feet from a lake and would like to take irrigation water from the lake. It is about a 10 foot rise from the lake to the house level. I would appreciate any comments on the following possible approaches. 1) Put the pump near the lake and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the house. This requires 300' of buried UF to the pump, which cannot be buried in the same trench. 2) Put the pump near the house and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the lake with a foot/check valve at the lake end. Have a spigot tap at each end of the 300' intake pipe for initial priming. (Using a garden hose and city water for priming) 3) Putting the pump halfway in between and running UF to the pump and 3/4 intake and output lines as needed, with foot/check valve. My preference is for number 2 since it only requires one pipe trench and no buried UF electric. I think that with only a 10' head and a check valve, it should maintain a prime.... Thanks for your comments on the above... Andy |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Dad and I did sprinkler installation for years in TX. Only saw one
installation like you are proposing. It was a very high maintenance arrangement. The footvalve would pick up debris and the pump would lose prime. Another unanticipated problem was no matter what arrangement of inlet we used, the system would always pick up sand causing the hydraulic valves to malfunction. We were there at least 2-3 times a summer to disassemble and clean the valves. The owner spent more money on system maintenance then he saved on water costs. "Andy" wrote in message ups.com... I have a house which is about 300 feet from a lake and would like to take irrigation water from the lake. It is about a 10 foot rise from the lake to the house level. I would appreciate any comments on the following possible approaches. 1) Put the pump near the lake and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the house. This requires 300' of buried UF to the pump, which cannot be buried in the same trench. 2) Put the pump near the house and run 300' of 3/4 pipe to the lake with a foot/check valve at the lake end. Have a spigot tap at each end of the 300' intake pipe for initial priming. (Using a garden hose and city water for priming) 3) Putting the pump halfway in between and running UF to the pump and 3/4 intake and output lines as needed, with foot/check valve. My preference is for number 2 since it only requires one pipe trench and no buried UF electric. I think that with only a 10' head and a check valve, it should maintain a prime.... Thanks for your comments on the above... Andy |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
I can't speak to the basic problem, but as one who moved into a house
with such a set-up, it was a loser. This was a much smaller lake, with occasional algae problems. The intake hung into the lake from under the dock--down about 4 feet. The "sprinkling system" consisted of moveable yard sprinklers on long hose runs. No matter what we did, every filter in the sytem, or the sprinklers, soon got completed clogged with debris---mostly algae. Sank a 15' well, installed in-ground system. Works great. On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 22:03:17 -0600, "Ron Bridwell" wrote: Dad and I did sprinkler installation for years in TX. Only saw one installation like you are proposing. It was a very high maintenance arrangement. The footvalve would pick up debris and the pump would lose prime. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Package vs. Split System A/C in Manufactured Home | Home Ownership | |||
High Velocity (i.e. Unico) vs. Conventional system | Home Repair | |||
Cleaning out central heating system | UK diy | |||
New system nightmare | UK diy | |||
mains Hot water, and do I convert open heating to a closed heating system | UK diy |