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Default adding 2nd overhead light - one switch

(never posted here before, total novice)

I'd like to add a 2nd overhead light (in bedroom) to
the same switch that an existing overhead light is controlled by.

So, now, it looks like:

[switch]--------[light 1]

One way I know I could accomplish this would be:

[source]--------[switch]--------|new junction box|-------[light 1]
|-------[light 2]

So the switch would turn on and off the current to the box, which would
control 2 lights. But this seems like overkill.

I am really looking for advice on how to wire the 2nd light directly
from the first.

Such as:

[switch]--------[light 1]-------[light 2]

Is it as simple as wiring black to black and white to white on a new
wire from the existing light and then to the new fixture, keeping black
to black and white to white throughout?

-KJ

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SQLit
 
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Default


wrote in message
oups.com...
(never posted here before, total novice)

I'd like to add a 2nd overhead light (in bedroom) to
the same switch that an existing overhead light is controlled by.

So, now, it looks like:

------------------cut------------------

[switch]--------[light 1]-------[light 2]

Is it as simple as wiring black to black and white to white on a new
wire from the existing light and then to the new fixture, keeping black
to black and white to white throughout?

-KJ


yes as long as there are no other wires in the first light box. Remember to
extend the ground as well.


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kevin
 
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Default

By "USEC" do you mean the United States Electrical Code? If so, I've
never heard it called that -- it is the NEC, "National Electric Code".

The NEC does (I am pretty sure, as of as recently as a year ago or so),
still allow source-light-switch connections. Nothing wrong with it at
all, and a perfectly fine way to do things. You are right that the hot
has to go straight through the light box to the switch. The reason is
that when the switch is turned off, there should be no HOT connection
to the light bulb at all, so you can change it and whatever without
risk of shock.

But really, the OP should have no trouble. Just look at the existing
light. Whatever two wires connect to the light bulb fixture itself are
the exact two wires you want to hook the new fixture to. Should be
simple. If it is up to code, it should be a white and a black with
nothing else in the box (source-switch-light), or a white and a second
white relabelled as black (source-light-switch) with two other blacks
in the box.

-Kev



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Harry K
 
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Default


kevin wrote:
By "USEC" do you mean the United States Electrical Code? If so, I've
never heard it called that -- it is the NEC, "National Electric

Code".

The NEC does (I am pretty sure, as of as recently as a year ago or

so),
still allow source-light-switch connections. Nothing wrong with it at
all, and a perfectly fine way to do things. You are right that the

hot
has to go straight through the light box to the switch. The reason is
that when the switch is turned off, there should be no HOT connection
to the light bulb at all, so you can change it and whatever without
risk of shock.

But really, the OP should have no trouble. Just look at the existing
light. Whatever two wires connect to the light bulb fixture itself

are
the exact two wires you want to hook the new fixture to. Should be
simple. If it is up to code, it should be a white and a black with
nothing else in the box (source-switch-light), or a white and a

second
white relabelled as black (source-light-switch) with two other blacks
in the box.

-Kev


Dooh! Another installment on the flat forehead syndrom. I totally
overlooked that the two going to the light no matter how marked are the
ones to connect to.

Harry K

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Brian Oakley
 
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Default


"kevin" wrote in message
oups.com...
By "USEC" do you mean the United States Electrical Code? If so, I've
never heard it called that -- it is the NEC, "National Electric Code".

The NEC does (I am pretty sure, as of as recently as a year ago or so),
still allow source-light-switch connections. Nothing wrong with it at
all, and a perfectly fine way to do things. You are right that the hot
has to go straight through the light box to the switch. The reason is
that when the switch is turned off, there should be no HOT connection
to the light bulb at all, so you can change it and whatever without
risk of shock.

But really, the OP should have no trouble. Just look at the existing
light. Whatever two wires connect to the light bulb fixture itself are
the exact two wires you want to hook the new fixture to. Should be
simple. If it is up to code, it should be a white and a black with
nothing else in the box (source-switch-light), or a white and a second
white relabelled as black (source-light-switch) with two other blacks
in the box.

-Kev

Yes, sorry, was referring to NEC.
No nothing wrong with wire itself passing through the light box as long as
it is switched before it goes back to the light, although this requires
extra wire.
B


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Well folks, I did it as advised and all went well, no problems.

Thank you.

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