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adding 2nd overhead light - one switch
(never posted here before, total novice)
I'd like to add a 2nd overhead light (in bedroom) to the same switch that an existing overhead light is controlled by. So, now, it looks like: [switch]--------[light 1] One way I know I could accomplish this would be: [source]--------[switch]--------|new junction box|-------[light 1] |-------[light 2] So the switch would turn on and off the current to the box, which would control 2 lights. But this seems like overkill. I am really looking for advice on how to wire the 2nd light directly from the first. Such as: [switch]--------[light 1]-------[light 2] Is it as simple as wiring black to black and white to white on a new wire from the existing light and then to the new fixture, keeping black to black and white to white throughout? -KJ |
#2
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wrote in message oups.com... (never posted here before, total novice) I'd like to add a 2nd overhead light (in bedroom) to the same switch that an existing overhead light is controlled by. So, now, it looks like: ------------------cut------------------ [switch]--------[light 1]-------[light 2] Is it as simple as wiring black to black and white to white on a new wire from the existing light and then to the new fixture, keeping black to black and white to white throughout? -KJ yes as long as there are no other wires in the first light box. Remember to extend the ground as well. |
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#5
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By "USEC" do you mean the United States Electrical Code? If so, I've
never heard it called that -- it is the NEC, "National Electric Code". The NEC does (I am pretty sure, as of as recently as a year ago or so), still allow source-light-switch connections. Nothing wrong with it at all, and a perfectly fine way to do things. You are right that the hot has to go straight through the light box to the switch. The reason is that when the switch is turned off, there should be no HOT connection to the light bulb at all, so you can change it and whatever without risk of shock. But really, the OP should have no trouble. Just look at the existing light. Whatever two wires connect to the light bulb fixture itself are the exact two wires you want to hook the new fixture to. Should be simple. If it is up to code, it should be a white and a black with nothing else in the box (source-switch-light), or a white and a second white relabelled as black (source-light-switch) with two other blacks in the box. -Kev |
#6
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kevin wrote: By "USEC" do you mean the United States Electrical Code? If so, I've never heard it called that -- it is the NEC, "National Electric Code". The NEC does (I am pretty sure, as of as recently as a year ago or so), still allow source-light-switch connections. Nothing wrong with it at all, and a perfectly fine way to do things. You are right that the hot has to go straight through the light box to the switch. The reason is that when the switch is turned off, there should be no HOT connection to the light bulb at all, so you can change it and whatever without risk of shock. But really, the OP should have no trouble. Just look at the existing light. Whatever two wires connect to the light bulb fixture itself are the exact two wires you want to hook the new fixture to. Should be simple. If it is up to code, it should be a white and a black with nothing else in the box (source-switch-light), or a white and a second white relabelled as black (source-light-switch) with two other blacks in the box. -Kev Dooh! Another installment on the flat forehead syndrom. I totally overlooked that the two going to the light no matter how marked are the ones to connect to. Harry K |
#7
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"kevin" wrote in message oups.com... By "USEC" do you mean the United States Electrical Code? If so, I've never heard it called that -- it is the NEC, "National Electric Code". The NEC does (I am pretty sure, as of as recently as a year ago or so), still allow source-light-switch connections. Nothing wrong with it at all, and a perfectly fine way to do things. You are right that the hot has to go straight through the light box to the switch. The reason is that when the switch is turned off, there should be no HOT connection to the light bulb at all, so you can change it and whatever without risk of shock. But really, the OP should have no trouble. Just look at the existing light. Whatever two wires connect to the light bulb fixture itself are the exact two wires you want to hook the new fixture to. Should be simple. If it is up to code, it should be a white and a black with nothing else in the box (source-switch-light), or a white and a second white relabelled as black (source-light-switch) with two other blacks in the box. -Kev Yes, sorry, was referring to NEC. No nothing wrong with wire itself passing through the light box as long as it is switched before it goes back to the light, although this requires extra wire. B |
#8
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Well folks, I did it as advised and all went well, no problems.
Thank you. |
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