We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old, smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

--
Mike D.

www.stopassaultnow.net

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We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old, smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to
do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

--
Mike D.

You primed how long after the compound was applied? And was the primer
fully dry before you painted with topcoat? Check instrutions on both the
primer and the compound. I've had bubbling up from either not waiting long
enough for first coat to dry, or by continued degassing of the plaster
compound as it sets - I think it may be the latter. Thicker areas of
compound can take a day or so to set up, depending on humidity, at which
point it turns from dark and pliable to a sort of fully bleached , white
look.

you didnt wash the walls first.

randy

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...
We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old, smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to
do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

--
Mike D.

www.stopassaultnow.net

Remove .spamnot to respond by email

"Roger T." wrote in message
...
We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both
all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg
latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old,
smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to
do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

--
Mike D.

You primed how long after the compound was applied? And was the primer
fully dry before you painted with topcoat? Check instrutions on both the
primer and the compound. I've had bubbling up from either not waiting long
enough for first coat to dry, or by continued degassing of the plaster
compound as it sets - I think it may be the latter. Thicker areas of
compound can take a day or so to set up, depending on humidity, at which
point it turns from dark and pliable to a sort of fully bleached , white
look.



The problem was in the thinner areas, not thicker, and setting time for the
compound varied from one area to another, from about 1 - 2 hours. The
compound has a 45 minute setting time. Also this only happened over the old
drywall, not over the new. The new actually had the shortest setting time
except for one thick area we missed earlier (holes and a dent), but that
area is fine. It all sanded fine, fully set, before painting. Now the
setting-type compound in certain areas are soft.

Just because you can sand does not mean you can prime and paint. 24 hrs
is normal , when area is humid, many days can be needed. water must
evaporate. Redo it, this time wait

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...
We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old, smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to
do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

--
Mike D.


Setting time must not be confused with curing time.

Setting time allows for more than one coat in a day. Depending on room
conditions and the thickness of the mud, final curing can take from 1-5
days. You can't sand or paint until after the final cure.

After final cure priming with a drywall sealer is desired. It dries much
more quickly than regular latex paint. Once primed and dried you are ready
to paint.


Colbyt

"Mike Dobony" wrote
but only over the old, smoke-covered
walls


There's you problem, as already mentioned by _xrongor_. You don't
prime/paint or use mud over dirty walls, you skipped the prep work, now
you're paying for it.

"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
Just because you can sand does not mean you can prime and paint. 24 hrs
is normal , when area is humid, many days can be needed. water must
evaporate. Redo it, this time wait


The water does not evaporate as this is SETTING-type compound. It sets up
in 45 minutes. Also, most areas are fine, even the areas that were done
last.

"Colbyt" wrote in message
...

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...
We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both
all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg
latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old,
smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to
do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

--
Mike D.


Setting time must not be confused with curing time.

Setting time allows for more than one coat in a day. Depending on room
conditions and the thickness of the mud, final curing can take from 1-5
days. You can't sand or paint until after the final cure.

Nothing was said on the package about that. How can you recoat if you can't
sand until after the final cure? I can understand painting, but not
sanding. I have done this many times before with no problems, but also
never on old, smoke covered walls and never with that brand of primer.


After final cure priming with a drywall sealer is desired. It dries much
more quickly than regular latex paint. Once primed and dried you are
ready
to paint.

We did that.



Colbyt

"Getty" wrote in message
...

"Mike Dobony" wrote
but only over the old, smoke-covered
walls


There's you problem, as already mentioned by _xrongor_. You don't
prime/paint or use mud over dirty walls, you skipped the prep work, now
you're paying for it.


That might explain why it came loose, but not why the set compound became
wet again. This is not cheap drying compound, but setting type. I have
never seen setting type compound become soft again.

"Colbyt" wrote in message
...

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...
We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both
all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg
latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old,
smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to
do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

--
Mike D.


Setting time must not be confused with curing time.

Setting time allows for more than one coat in a day. Depending on room
conditions and the thickness of the mud, final curing can take from 1-5
days. You can't sand or paint until after the final cure.


I keep my compound powder in a bucket so I didn't have the directions handy,
but had to go to the HW store for something else and read the bag. It is
paintable IMMEDATELY after drying/setting. That means it is paintable in
about an hour, depending on how much water used, air and water temp (I
accidently used hot water with one batch and it was setting up before I
could even apply it), and humidity. This also does not explain why the
compound softened, like it was still wet.

After final cure priming with a drywall sealer is desired. It dries much
more quickly than regular latex paint. Once primed and dried you are
ready
to paint.


Colbyt

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...

"Colbyt" wrote in message
...
Setting time must not be confused with curing time.

Setting time allows for more than one coat in a day. Depending on room
conditions and the thickness of the mud, final curing can take from 1-5
days. You can't sand or paint until after the final cure.

Nothing was said on the package about that. How can you recoat if you
can't
sand until after the final cure? I can understand painting, but not
sanding. I have done this many times before with no problems, but also
never on old, smoke covered walls and never with that brand of primer.


Well you would be right about that. I went downstairs and looked at a bag.
That is still the problem. If you go to the USG site it points out that the
purpose of setting compound is to keep the production moving, allowing for
extra coats of mud in a single day.

Most people don't sand between coats. You can shave any ridges and apply
your next coat. Let the stuff dry and paint it again. Get some air moving
in the room to speed the process.

Colbyt

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...

I keep my compound powder in a bucket so I didn't have the directions
handy,
but had to go to the HW store for something else and read the bag. It is
paintable IMMEDATELY after drying/setting. That means it is paintable in
about an hour, depending on how much water used, air and water temp (I

You posted here with a problem.

I gave you the answer. If you don't want to accept that, I don't mind. I
don't have a problem.


Have a great week.


Colbyt

"Colbyt" wrote in message
...

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...

I keep my compound powder in a bucket so I didn't have the directions
handy,
but had to go to the HW store for something else and read the bag. It
is
paintable IMMEDATELY after drying/setting. That means it is paintable
in
about an hour, depending on how much water used, air and water temp (I

You posted here with a problem.

I gave you the answer. If you don't want to accept that, I don't mind. I
don't have a problem.


You gave an answer that contradicts the instructions and fails to explain
how hardened setting-type compound would soften. We will not have an
opportunity to paint again for a few days and we will see what happens then.


Have a great week.


Colbyt

wrote in message
...
Did you use fiberglass mesh on the joints or that old paper tape?
I used to use that paper tape and it would often peel off when it got
wet from the paint. I no longer use that crap. I use the mesh now
and dont have that problem anymore. You might apply a fast drying
non-water based paint over the joints before you use your latex paint.
Something like the alcohol based KILZ. Or, even try some spray paint,
I never tried that, but it may work. The gray auto primer may work
and will be an easy color to paint over.


The pealing is nowher near the tape. It is the feathered edges only that
are peeling and softening. Thsi is setting type compound and should not
soften by paint or water, which is one big reason I prefer the setting type
compound, the edges do not get removed when you use a roller to put the
paint on it.

I was not aware you could use non-latex under latex. Latex will not stick
to oil-based or enamel primer. I will be using the water-based Kilz instead
of the Conco PVA (whatever that is) primer/sealer. I only use Kilz, but I
didn't buy the paint for this project.

--
Mike D.

www.stopassaultnow.net

Remove .spamnot to respond by email

Mark


On Sat, 5 Feb 2005 22:14:30 -0600, "Mike Dobony"
wrote:

We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both
all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg
latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old,
smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to
do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

wrote in message
...
Did you use fiberglass mesh on the joints or that old paper tape?
I used to use that paper tape and it would often peel off when it got
wet from the paint. I no longer use that crap. I use the mesh now
and dont have that problem anymore. You might apply a fast drying
non-water based paint over the joints before you use your latex paint.
Something like the alcohol based KILZ. Or, even try some spray paint,
I never tried that, but it may work. The gray auto primer may work
and will be an easy color to paint over.


P.S. the area in question is a roughly 2' x 4' patch where the drywalll is
thinner than the original wall (I didn't get the drywall, someone else did).
I had to fill the entire area with all-purpose, "heavy" compound. The
compound did not soften or peal in the large area, but ONLY on the feathered
edges.

Mark


On Sat, 5 Feb 2005 22:14:30 -0600, "Mike Dobony"
wrote:

We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both
all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg
latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old,
smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to
do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

not getting paper tape to work right is caused by user error. it is far
superior to mesh tape to make a nice tight corner. it also takes a little
more work and a little more knowledge.

randy

wrote in message
...
Did you use fiberglass mesh on the joints or that old paper tape?
I used to use that paper tape and it would often peel off when it got
wet from the paint. I no longer use that crap. I use the mesh now
and dont have that problem anymore. You might apply a fast drying
non-water based paint over the joints before you use your latex paint.
Something like the alcohol based KILZ. Or, even try some spray paint,
I never tried that, but it may work. The gray auto primer may work
and will be an easy color to paint over.

Mark


On Sat, 5 Feb 2005 22:14:30 -0600, "Mike Dobony"
wrote:

We had to do some repairs to some walls, putting up a few sheets of new
drywall. We used Durabond setting type drywall compound, both all-purpose
and then lightweight. We used Conco PVA primer/sealer and Pittsburg latex
paint sprayed on with an airless painter. A few hours after painting we
went back and found several spots where the setting type lightweight
compound turned soft and bubbling up, but only over the old, smoke-covered
walls, not over any of the fresh drywall. We also found a spot where no
work had been done, but it is bubbling up too. We have more painting to
do
and don't want the same problems. Any ideas on what happened and how to
prevent it? Thanks.

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...

That might explain why it came loose, but not why the set compound became
wet again.

It didn't become wet AGAIN, it just never dried. You seem to be confusing
setting with drying.

wrote in message
...
Did you use fiberglass mesh on the joints or that old paper tape?
I used to use that paper tape and it would often peel off when it got
wet from the paint. I no longer use that crap.

Paper tape is generally superior to mesh tape. There is no scenario where
you have applied the tape and joint compound properly where the tape would
be allowed to get wet from the paint. Mesh tape is used only because it's
sometimes faster.

To Jeffc

Just for my clairification, ( I'm not the original poster.) but
you put compound - paper - then more compound?

I'm not a drywaller, but I have 3 sons who make holes, a 5 gallon
bucket of mud and several dry wall speaders.

I'd take any tips I can.

REH

On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 13:34:13 GMT, "jeffc"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
Did you use fiberglass mesh on the joints or that old paper tape?
I used to use that paper tape and it would often peel off when it got
wet from the paint. I no longer use that crap.

Paper tape is generally superior to mesh tape. There is no scenario where
you have applied the tape and joint compound properly where the tape would
be allowed to get wet from the paint. Mesh tape is used only because it's
sometimes faster.

"Reh" wrote in message
...

To Jeffc

Just for my clairification, ( I'm not the original poster.) but
you put compound - paper - then more compound?

I'm not a drywaller, but I have 3 sons who make holes, a 5 gallon
bucket of mud and several dry wall speaders.

I'd take any tips I can.

REH
Depends on the size of the holes- little dings just need mud. If there is an
actual puncture, you probably want tape. (yes, compound-paper-compound, then
dry, then sand, then another thin layer of compound if needed.) Paper is
easier to cover and blend, but mesh is stronger, and better for inside
corners where flex is a problem. If the drywall is fractured and pushed in,
you need scabs on the back and screws, or a stud-to-stud patch. Buy your mud
in smaller buckets- 5 gallons will go bad before you can use it up. And if
the sons are tall enough to reach the hole, make them patch it (and paint
it, later), while you stand there and supervise. (That was the rule in my
house growing up- you break it, you fix it. Tends to promote caution,
IMHO.)

If you have never done drywall before, spend 10 bucks at the big-box and buy
a book- the pictures and diagrams will be worth it.