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#1
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18 volt battery in 12 volt drill?
I've run a 14 volt drill with a 12 volt battery....has anyone
run an 12 volt dewalt drill with an 18 volt battery....I have two 12 volt drills but would like to use the more powerful batteries. Thanks Paul |
#3
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Some tool makers use different contact configurations, so that you can't
over volt a drill. 18 volts in a 12V drill is a bit too much. I wouldn't. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.com wrote in message oups.com... I've run a 14 volt drill with a 12 volt battery....has anyone run an 12 volt dewalt drill with an 18 volt battery....I have two 12 volt drills but would like to use the more powerful batteries. Thanks Paul |
#4
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wrote in message oups.com... I've run a 14 volt drill with a 12 volt battery....has anyone run an 12 volt dewalt drill with an 18 volt battery....I have two 12 volt drills but would like to use the more powerful batteries. Thanks Paul Most likely there would be no problem. The limiting factor is the size of wire their used in the motor. I devised a way to use four batteries for an old two battery screwdriver. Worked wonderfully. |
#5
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Right. I've run double and triple the rated voltage on DC drills. I've
abused them terribly and almost never burn up a motor because of it. If you check the motor manufacturer's specs you will see that the motors are rated for quite a range of voltages. If you have a source of donor parts or the drill in mind is expendable, then have fun and go for it. Custom made tools are great. |
#6
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The motor may handle it but you have electronics and gearing to
consider, it seems everyday products get cheaper, so do the internals. |
#7
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#8
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I have found the batteries to be too inconvienient to use, regardless
of the voltage. So, I went out and bought a new Dewalt and wired it directly to the 120v house current. I also built an adaptor for it so that it runs on 240 for those really tough jobs. |
#9
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Matt get a transformer 480v works best.
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#11
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"m Ransley" wrote in message ... The motor may handle it but you have electronics and gearing to consider, it seems everyday products get cheaper, so do the internals. I doubt that for those voltage (6 to 18 volt) the electronics should not be a problem. The motors and electronics may well be the same for all units from a given manufacturer. And the electronics doesn't amount to much of anything anyway. Not even as involved as variable speed AC motor drives. |
#12
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Matt wrote: Hey! I never thought of that. Will do!!!!! Folks, Matt and Ransley here just might be dumb enough to plug therir DC drill into the AC socket or an AC transformer, but trust me it will blow your circuit breaker very fast. Sometimes it will blow so fast that the drill will survive it. You can use an AC step down transformer that will put out 10 amps or more, but that's expensive unless you already own one. A DC drill operated in this fashion has no where near the power (watts) of a low cost AC drill with a cord. There are ways to beef up your DC drill. However, don't listen to these fools. They have not done anything themselves. |
#13
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The electronics amount to everything if they blow.
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#14
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WHAT you mean my 3.6v B&D cant take 440 AC so far it works great ! Gee
Ive got 3, 220 - 110 transformers from Europe and I was just going to inline one more for 880v AC. Aw I gonna try it anyway an 880v ac B&D Kick ass. Howabout an 880v coffemaker , makes a pot in 6 seconds flat. And my slow ceiling fan, yep 440 just might do it there also. |
#15
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"m Ransley" wrote in message ... The electronics amount to everything if they blow. I just checked a 12 volt typical drill. The "electronics" consistes of a switch and an RFP50N05 (50 Ampere, 50 volt, .022 Ohm, N-Channel Power MOSFET). So it will work with anything up to 50 volts and 50 Amperes. So if you want to go to a larger battery and are still worried about blowing something open it up and take at look at what is used inside. Wonder where I can get a 40 volt battery to put on it??? |
#16
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The key is the 50 amp rating. My RC car 7cell - 8.4v needs a 30 amp
fuse it blows 20amp. Nicads can dump alot of power. And for a drill you dont want to get near its rating you just shorten its life. |
#17
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I agree. Folks, don't listen to this 'professor' guy - the only thing
he can safely profess is that he is a dip****. EVERYONE knows that there is no real difference between AC and DC - that whole thing was a conspiracy to defraud the public. Your power tools, coffee makers, TVs , stereos, ALL OF IT - will run longer, faster, and better on 880v +. |
#18
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Well, if you get a dewalt cordless drill, and then build an adaptor for it,
to run on house power. Havn't you just reinvented the electric plug in drill? -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Matt" wrote in message ups.com... I have found the batteries to be too inconvienient to use, regardless of the voltage. So, I went out and bought a new Dewalt and wired it directly to the 120v house current. I also built an adaptor for it so that it runs on 240 for those really tough jobs. |
#19
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Yes, only better. Nobody ever had a 240v cordless corded portable drill
before. |
#20
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Im tired of electric, im putting in my RC cars 35000rpm nitromethane gas
motor and clutch in my drill, now thats power to screw. |
#21
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Travis Jordan wrote:
wrote: I've run a 14 volt drill with a 12 volt battery....has anyone run an 12 volt dewalt drill with an 18 volt battery....I have two 12 volt drills but would like to use the more powerful batteries. That sound you hear is your drill's motor burning up. No, it's the smell. That's a 50% increase (12 to 18), so it won't take long. Wonder if his real name's Tim Taylor? g Pop |
#22
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Rich wrote:
Most likely there would be no problem. The limiting factor is the size of wire their used in the motor. I devised a way to use four batteries for an old two battery screwdriver. Worked wonderfully. I bet. I'll also bet you didn't use ballasts to balance the batteries, and their life was awfully short, but then it "worked", right? |
#23
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m Ransley wrote:
The electronics amount to everything if they blow. You got that right. And since engineers design to limits, it's pretty UNlikely a 12V unit has 18V components. Nine to 12 maybe, but not 18. These guys must be loved by the battery and replacement parts shops, or they use their equipment a few seconds at a time once or twice a year. Then, even IF the components can live thru 18V vice 12, it's a pretty sure thing the motor/stator windings weren't designed to dissipate that much heat. Sooner or later one of these guys will set the drill down after a prolonged session, the core temp will work its way out thru the windings, and drip possibly flaming plastic or winding cement onto the bench, and start a fire with it, and then blame the manufacturer for their house burning down. Way too many people think batteries are "safe" and that they never heat up. The best part is the failure of a 12V while it's on an 18V charger; it's usually a pretty site, at first. When a battery core's max temp is exceeded, it almost always explodes or vents with great gusto, especially the types used in power tools. If you want to see a really pretty site, try a lead-acid on a bigger charger; it's prettier yet, all that carbon to burn off. Watch someone come back and say those batteries can't vent 'cause they have no vents g. Don't drink & drill. Pop |
#24
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Rich wrote:
"m Ransley" wrote in message ... The electronics amount to everything if they blow. I just checked a 12 volt typical drill. The "electronics" consistes of a switch and an RFP50N05 (50 Ampere, 50 volt, .022 Ohm, N-Channel Power MOSFET). So it will work with anything up to 50 volts and 50 Amperes. LOL! That's ALL that has to dissipate any power? Whooooo, woooo! Great discovery, Tim! Now tell me this: what is the maximum core temp rating for any of the windings? Or the commutator max current? These guyys need to go do some research. Badly! |
#25
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m Ransley wrote:
WHAT you mean my 3.6v B&D cant take 440 AC so far it works great ! Gee Ive got 3, 220 - 110 transformers from Europe and I was just going to inline one more for 880v AC. Aw I gonna try it anyway an 880v ac B&D Kick ass. Howabout an 880v coffemaker , makes a pot in 6 seconds flat. And my slow ceiling fan, yep 440 just might do it there also. LOL!!!! Your tongue must be danged near sticking out thru your cheek by now! Hey, I got an old 10,000V oil burner xfmr; yeah! Let's try that one Tim! |
#26
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Matt wrote:
I agree. Folks, don't listen to this 'professor' guy - the only thing he can safely profess is that he is a dip****. EVERYONE knows that there is no real difference between AC and DC - that whole thing was a conspiracy to defraud the public. Your power tools, coffee makers, TVs , stereos, ALL OF IT - will run longer, faster, and better on 880v +. Should be really stupendous on my 10kV xfmr then, eh? No, wait! I got a big, OLD, color TV out in the shed; what's that, 22kV? Hey, I'll have all you guys beat! I'll post back when I git it woikin'. |
#27
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Matt wrote:
Yes, only better. Nobody ever had a 240v cordless corded portable drill before. Oh yeah: They're called stationary 240V cordless corded mini-portable drills! |
#28
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m Ransley wrote:
Im tired of electric, im putting in my RC cars 35000rpm nitromethane gas motor and clutch in my drill, now thats power to screw. Been a long time since I"ve had this much fun just TALKING about screwin'! Well, gotta go look for that xfmr now. Hmm, think I had a conductformer somewhere, now where did I put that? /pop |
#29
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On Wed, 2 Feb 2005 19:08:35 -0500, Pop wrote:
Travis Jordan wrote: wrote: I've run a 14 volt drill with a 12 volt battery....has anyone run an 12 volt dewalt drill with an 18 volt battery....I have two 12 volt drills but would like to use the more powerful batteries. That sound you hear is your drill's motor burning up. No, it's the smell. That's a 50% increase (12 to 18), so it won't take long. Actually, it's a 125% increase. Power at a given resistance is a function of the square of the voltage. (P=V^2/R) |
#30
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On Wed, 2 Feb 2005 19:24:28 -0500, Pop wrote:
m Ransley wrote: WHAT you mean my 3.6v B&D cant take 440 AC so far it works great ! Gee Ive got 3, 220 - 110 transformers from Europe and I was just going to inline one more for 880v AC. Aw I gonna try it anyway an 880v ac B&D Kick ass. Howabout an 880v coffemaker , makes a pot in 6 seconds flat. And my slow ceiling fan, yep 440 just might do it there also. LOL!!!! Your tongue must be danged near sticking out thru your cheek by now! Hey, I got an old 10,000V oil burner xfmr; yeah! Let's try that one Tim! I put instant coffee in the microwave oven and went back in time. -- S.Wright |
#31
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Charging a 12v in an 18 volt charger will not hurt the 12v battery if it
is a modern peak charger as most good chargers are. Peak is detected by Voltage drop of cells. RC chargers can , depending on model charge 4- 16 cells, voltage is the same it is amps that control rate of charge. Now if you charge a 18v pack in a 12 v charger it will never charge fully. Another way of finding peak charge is when the pack just Starts to get warm. A warm pack means electrical energy is being converted to heat, a bad thing to do to cells. Unfortunatly heat can be generated by the charger itself so voltage drop method is more accurate. They will not blow up or catch fire overcharged , they just loose alot of their life, they cook. |
#32
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Nevermind all this wussy stuff. I put a #2 phillips tip on my 10 CFM air
ratchet, wtih 400 foot pounds of torque, and 200 blows per minute. (OK, well, I didn't do any of this, but it's fun to think about). -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org www.mormons.com "Pop" wrote in message ... m Ransley wrote: Im tired of electric, im putting in my RC cars 35000rpm nitromethane gas motor and clutch in my drill, now thats power to screw. Been a long time since I"ve had this much fun just TALKING about screwin'! Well, gotta go look for that xfmr now. Hmm, think I had a conductformer somewhere, now where did I put that? /pop |
#33
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Stormin Mormon wrote:
Nevermind all this wussy stuff. I put a #2 phillips tip on my 10 CFM air ratchet, wtih 400 foot pounds of torque, and 200 blows per minute. (OK, well, I didn't do any of this, but it's fun to think about). I played Black Sabbath at 78 speed, man. And what happened? I saw God! |
#34
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"GFRfan" wrote in message news:4UOTd.2759$r55.2050@attbi_s52... Stormin Mormon wrote: Nevermind all this wussy stuff. I put a #2 phillips tip on my 10 CFM air ratchet, wtih 400 foot pounds of torque, and 200 blows per minute. (OK, well, I didn't do any of this, but it's fun to think about). I played Black Sabbath at 78 speed, man. And what happened? I saw God! Play it backwards at that speed. Tune in, turn on and drop out. Stone (No D on the end of that) Well, on second thought. |
#35
Posted to alt.home.repair
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18 volt battery in 12 volt drill?
replying to Pop, Jason wrote:
Very creative answer, but it does show ignorance of electronic circuits. It's quite unusual for electronic components to be rated under 25 or even 50 volts, so it's very unlikely that 18V vs 12V will cause voltage breakdown in any circuit component. In an electric drill, heat is generated by the arcing at the brushes and also from electric current passing through the file windings. Here the higher voltage will push a higher current through the drill, which will cause more heating. When the drill is used at slower speed, I would expect it to work just fine. With extended drilling at full power, I would expect the drill to heat up more. Whether this causes a problem will depend on how good the original thermal design was. I've had 120VAC hand tools heat up and die when run for extended periods. Some tools are designed only for short term intermittent use. It's easy to tell when a tool overheats - just stop and let it cool. For short term drilling, it would probably work fine, perhaps run a little warmer. Design Engineer -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-590238-.htm |
#36
Posted to alt.home.repair
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18 volt battery in 12 volt drill?
replying to Pop, Jason wrote:
Ballasts are not used with batteries. Very creative but irrelevant. Batteries connected in series don't need balancing. In any case, the issue here is the use of an 18V battery module with a 12V tool. There are adapters available online to do this. Whether it works well for a particular tool will depend on the design of the tool.. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-590238-.htm |
#37
Posted to alt.home.repair
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18 volt battery in 12 volt drill?
replying to Pop, Rthrgrgns wrote:
If they were designed to limits they would instantly fail if you used an 18v battery on a 12v tool. In reality it depends on the tool that said I have a crappy b&d 12v multitool with the same connection as dewalt 18v I have been using it with the dewalt battery for years with no issues you just stop and let it cool if you start to smell it getting hot -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-590238-.htm |
#38
Posted to alt.home.repair
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18 volt battery in 12 volt drill?
I have a 14.4 Makita drill can I use a 18 v battery in it
-- For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ll-590238-.htm |
#39
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18 volt battery in 12 volt drill?
On Thu, 26 Nov 2020 15:15:02 +0000, Maryville7 posted for all of us to digest... I have a 14.4 Makita drill can I use a 18 v battery in it No -- Tekkie |
#40
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18 volt battery in 12 volt drill?
On Sat, 28 Nov 2020 16:45:51 -0500, Tekkie©
wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2020 15:15:02 +0000, Maryville7 posted for all of us to digest... I have a 14.4 Makita drill can I use a 18 v battery in it No He can if it fits. AN old friend built a Zenith 601 airplane with a 7.2 volt drill run off a 12 volt car battery - and that is a LOT of 1/8" holes!!!! |
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