When I hit the remote control, the door barely moves down (1/4 inch) then
the light bulb flashes 10 times. I'm still looking for the meaning of that
flashing. The door will go _up_ just fine with the remote.

The wall switch works perfectly every time, up or down. I do not have to
hold the button down on the wall switch.

It seems to me that these symptoms lead to conflicting conclusions:

- It can't be the safety sensors because the door will go down fine using
the wall switch.

- It can't be that the remote signal is weak because the remote will open
the door every time.

- It can't be that the down force is weak because again, the door goes down
with the wall switch.

I cleared and re-set the remote code but no difference. I've been at this
for several weeks and am really stuck so _Any_ suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks.


model info:
Sears/Craftsman 1/2 HP
Model: 139.536415RT

"Dennis J" wrote in message
...
It's the sensors.
DJS


I did replace the sensors a few weeks ago, it actually worked after that for
a short time then this happened.

Besides, my thinking was this: if it was the sensors, why does the door go
down fine with the wall unit? (and I do not have to hold the button). If a
faulty sensor was preventing the door from going down, it should prevent it
regardless of whether I use the remote or the wall button.

Subject: Sears G. Door Opener Won't Go Down With Remote
From: "paxton"
Date: 1/9/2005 4:47 P.M. Pacific Standard Time
Message-id:


"Dennis J" wrote in message
...
It's the sensors.
DJS


I did replace the sensors a few weeks ago, it actually worked after that for
a short time then this happened.

Besides, my thinking was this: if it was the sensors, why does the door go
down fine with the wall unit? (and I do not have to hold the button). If a
faulty sensor was preventing the door from going down, it should prevent it
regardless of whether I use the remote or the wall button.






Your thinking is correct. Faulty sensors require the wall control to be held
down in order to close. At least on my doors.

But perhaps on this system faulty sensors prevent remote down but not wall
switch down?

Check sensors again for proper function.

Sorry missed the OP

"Dennis J" wrote in message
...
It's the sensors.
DJS


I did replace the sensors a few weeks ago, it actually worked after that
for
a short time then this happened.

Besides, my thinking was this: if it was the sensors, why does the door
go
down fine with the wall unit? (and I do not have to hold the button). If
a
faulty sensor was preventing the door from going down, it should prevent
it
regardless of whether I use the remote or the wall button.





Your thinking is correct. Faulty sensors require the wall control to be
held
down in order to close. At least on my doors.

But perhaps on this system faulty sensors prevent remote down but not wall
switch down?

Check sensors again for proper function.

Sorry missed the OP


I have a solid green light on both the sending and receiving eye sensors. I
just found some info on the web that says when the bulbs flash 10 times and
the door moves down just one inch, then it's a sensor problem. But as I
said, the sensors are new and the door moves down with one click of the wall
switch. All the info I find from my many web searches keeps me going
around in circles, all the symptoms seem to contradict each other as to the
cause of the problem.

Here's the Original Post if you didn't see it:

================================================== =
When I hit the remote control, the door barely moves down (1/4 inch) then
the light bulb flashes 10 times. I'm still looking for the meaning of that
flashing. The door will go _up_ just fine with the remote.

The wall switch works perfectly every time, up or down. I do not have to
hold the button down on the wall switch.

It seems to me that these symptoms lead to conflicting conclusions:

- It can't be the safety sensors because the door will go down fine using
the wall switch.

- It can't be that the remote signal is weak because the remote will open
the door every time.

- It can't be that the down force is weak because again, the door goes down
with the wall switch.

I cleared and re-set the remote code but no difference. I've been at this
for several weeks and am really stuck so _Any_ suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks.

update: remote battery is new, safety sensors are new


model info:
Sears/Craftsman 1/2 HP
Model: 139.536415RT
================================================== =

paxton wrote:

"Dennis J" wrote in message
...

It's the sensors.
DJS


I did replace the sensors a few weeks ago, it actually worked after that

for

a short time then this happened.

Besides, my thinking was this: if it was the sensors, why does the door

go

down fine with the wall unit? (and I do not have to hold the button). If

a

faulty sensor was preventing the door from going down, it should prevent

it

regardless of whether I use the remote or the wall button.





Your thinking is correct. Faulty sensors require the wall control to be

held

down in order to close. At least on my doors.

But perhaps on this system faulty sensors prevent remote down but not wall
switch down?

Check sensors again for proper function.

Sorry missed the OP



I have a solid green light on both the sending and receiving eye sensors. I
just found some info on the web that says when the bulbs flash 10 times and
the door moves down just one inch, then it's a sensor problem. But as I
said, the sensors are new and the door moves down with one click of the wall
switch. All the info I find from my many web searches keeps me going
around in circles, all the symptoms seem to contradict each other as to the
cause of the problem.

Here's the Original Post if you didn't see it:

================================================== =
When I hit the remote control, the door barely moves down (1/4 inch) then
the light bulb flashes 10 times. I'm still looking for the meaning of that
flashing. The door will go _up_ just fine with the remote.

The wall switch works perfectly every time, up or down. I do not have to
hold the button down on the wall switch.

It seems to me that these symptoms lead to conflicting conclusions:

- It can't be the safety sensors because the door will go down fine using
the wall switch.

- It can't be that the remote signal is weak because the remote will open
the door every time.

- It can't be that the down force is weak because again, the door goes down
with the wall switch.

I cleared and re-set the remote code but no difference. I've been at this
for several weeks and am really stuck so _Any_ suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks.

update: remote battery is new, safety sensors are new


model info:
Sears/Craftsman 1/2 HP
Model: 139.536415RT
================================================== =



Here is my 2 cents... I think it may be the sensors.. What you could do
is check the wiring. You may have stapled through it and it may be
causing a short. Also, you might want to try to switch the photocells.
Take the one from the left side of the door and put it on the right and
vice versa. It doesnt make sense that the door will go down without
holding the button on the wall console but who knows.

"John" wrote in message
...
paxton wrote:

"Dennis J" wrote in message
...

It's the sensors.
DJS


I did replace the sensors a few weeks ago, it actually worked after
that

for

a short time then this happened.

Besides, my thinking was this: if it was the sensors, why does the
door

go

down fine with the wall unit? (and I do not have to hold the button).
If

a

faulty sensor was preventing the door from going down, it should
prevent

it

regardless of whether I use the remote or the wall button.





Your thinking is correct. Faulty sensors require the wall control to be

held

down in order to close. At least on my doors.

But perhaps on this system faulty sensors prevent remote down but not
wall
switch down?

Check sensors again for proper function.

Sorry missed the OP



I have a solid green light on both the sending and receiving eye
sensors. I
just found some info on the web that says when the bulbs flash 10 times
and
the door moves down just one inch, then it's a sensor problem. But as I
said, the sensors are new and the door moves down with one click of the
wall
switch. All the info I find from my many web searches keeps me going
around in circles, all the symptoms seem to contradict each other as to
the
cause of the problem.

Here's the Original Post if you didn't see it:

================================================== =
When I hit the remote control, the door barely moves down (1/4 inch)
then
the light bulb flashes 10 times. I'm still looking for the meaning of
that
flashing. The door will go _up_ just fine with the remote.

The wall switch works perfectly every time, up or down. I do not have
to
hold the button down on the wall switch.

It seems to me that these symptoms lead to conflicting conclusions:

- It can't be the safety sensors because the door will go down fine
using
the wall switch.

- It can't be that the remote signal is weak because the remote will
open
the door every time.

- It can't be that the down force is weak because again, the door goes
down
with the wall switch.

I cleared and re-set the remote code but no difference. I've been at
this
for several weeks and am really stuck so _Any_ suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks.

update: remote battery is new, safety sensors are new


model info:
Sears/Craftsman 1/2 HP
Model: 139.536415RT
================================================== =


Here is my 2 cents... I think it may be the sensors.. What you could do
is check the wiring. You may have stapled through it and it may be
causing a short. Also, you might want to try to switch the photocells.
Take the one from the left side of the door and put it on the right and
vice versa. It doesnt make sense that the door will go down without
holding the button on the wall console but who knows.


Here's what I did:

-switched positions of sensors; no change

-ran a new wire from the sensors to the main unit in case the in wall wire
was damaged; no change

Then I removed one sensor and rubber banded it to the other sensor so that
they are eye to eye, now I can't get it to fail. ??

Of course this bypasses the safety feature but it seems to suggest that the
sensors were either not lined up, or damaged in some way so that either the
sending or receiving eye is weak.

The only problem with that is, they are new sensors. I did line them up
when installing. I'm not sure what else I can do except put them in the
brackets and rotate the eye until I get the solid green light.