I looked at a basement floor where there had been a flood, and all the wood
parquet tiling had been removed. The room is about 12X16. That adhesive is
as hard as a rock and would be about impossible to remove. Would the
standard procedure be to float the whole floor in thinset before applying
either
vinyl tile or paint? Wood the finished thinset job really be smooth enough to
paint, or would it be full of swipes and ridges, if a professional did the job?
Is putting down the thinset something an ameteur could do?

you can usually get adhesive off in one of 2 ways a heat gun to soften the
glue then use an Ice scraper to scrape it off or to freeze it with dry ice
causing it to crack. Floating would be quite a bit of work plus it will add
to the height of the floor.

Wayne

"BUB 209" wrote in message
...
I looked at a basement floor where there had been a flood, and all the wood
parquet tiling had been removed. The room is about 12X16. That adhesive
is
as hard as a rock and would be about impossible to remove. Would the
standard procedure be to float the whole floor in thinset before applying
either
vinyl tile or paint? Wood the finished thinset job really be smooth
enough to
paint, or would it be full of swipes and ridges, if a professional did the
job?
Is putting down the thinset something an ameteur could do?

"BUB 209" wrote in message
...
I looked at a basement floor where there had been a flood, and all the
wood
parquet tiling had been removed. The room is about 12X16. That adhesive
is
as hard as a rock and would be about impossible to remove. Would the
standard procedure be to float the whole floor in thinset before applying
either
vinyl tile or paint? Wood the finished thinset job really be smooth
enough to
paint, or would it be full of swipes and ridges, if a professional did the
job?
Is putting down the thinset something an ameteur could do?

Remove the glue try harbor freight for a large propane torch.
Thin set is not for walking on, it is a base for ceramic tile.

I would be careful using a torch, a heatgun is much safer to use.
the thinset my understanding was just a way to get a level floor to put new
flooring on?

Wayne

"SQLit" wrote in message
news:3ecEd.79373$QR1.76601@fed1read04...

"BUB 209" wrote in message
...
I looked at a basement floor where there had been a flood, and all the
wood
parquet tiling had been removed. The room is about 12X16. That adhesive
is
as hard as a rock and would be about impossible to remove. Would the
standard procedure be to float the whole floor in thinset before applying
either
vinyl tile or paint? Wood the finished thinset job really be smooth
enough to
paint, or would it be full of swipes and ridges, if a professional did
the
job?
Is putting down the thinset something an ameteur could do?

Remove the glue try harbor freight for a large propane torch.
Thin set is not for walking on, it is a base for ceramic tile.

I looked at a basement floor where there had been a flood, and all the wood
parquet tiling had been removed. The room is about 12X16. That adhesive is
as hard as a rock and would be about impossible to remove. Would the
standard procedure be to float the whole floor in thinset before applying
either
vinyl tile or paint? Wood the finished thinset job really be smooth enough to
paint, or would it be full of swipes and ridges, if a professional did the job?
Is putting down the thinset something an ameteur could do?
---------
The right way to do this would be to rent a floor polisher with a
circular abrasive disc (or 3) of the correct grit and slowly abrade
the adhesive down to a smooth surface. The corners can be done by hand
or a hand held corner sander. Don't forget to seal the surface when
you're done.

"Abe" wrote in message
...
I looked at a basement floor where there had been a flood, and all the
wood
parquet tiling had been removed. The room is about 12X16. That adhesive
is
as hard as a rock and would be about impossible to remove. Would the
standard procedure be to float the whole floor in thinset before applying
either
vinyl tile or paint? Wood the finished thinset job really be smooth
enough to
paint, or would it be full of swipes and ridges, if a professional did
the job?
Is putting down the thinset something an ameteur could do?
---------
The right way to do this would be to rent a floor polisher with a
circular abrasive disc (or 3) of the correct grit and slowly abrade
the adhesive down to a smooth surface. The corners can be done by hand
or a hand held corner sander. Don't forget to seal the surface when
you're done.

There is also an attachment for the floor machine called a scrape away. It
has 6-12 carbide steel "blades" thattake the adhesive of quite nicely.

How old is the floor??? Some adhesives from the good old days had
asbestos in it. (I think almost EVERYTHING has asbestos in it,
milk, vitamins etc) (specifically alot of black cutback has it)

Anyway sanding it would not be a good option as that point
because you would release it into the air. Heat might be ok but
at that point its going to take a little time to heat the glue AND
cement. Freezing it is a GREAT idea when you have questionable
tile and want the glue to delaminate from the concete. When you take
the tile off if you are lucky the glue will stick mostly to the tile.

I personally used a adhesive remover from Home Depot.
You slop it on (windows open) the floor, let it sit. Its
desolves the glue a bit (enough for scraping)
Do it again and it becomes translucent. Once you are
there you are good to go. If you wanted to tile over it
you can buy a latex primer (found in the tiling isle) for the floor
and then use thinset to tile it over.

Tom

"Sexytom976" wrote in message
oups.com...
snip
I personally used a adhesive remover from Home Depot.
You slop it on (windows open) the floor, let it sit. Its
desolves the glue a bit (enough for scraping)
Do it again and it becomes translucent. Once you are
there you are good to go. If you wanted to tile over it
you can buy a latex primer (found in the tiling isle) for the floor
and then use thinset to tile it over.

Tom

why would you put down a latex primer except for crack problems? you want
the thinset to bond to the cement floor, and your primer will defeat that.

I read it as a latex bonding agent.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Charles Spitzer" wrote in
message ...

"Sexytom976" wrote in message
oups.com...
snip
I personally used a adhesive remover from Home Depot.
You slop it on (windows open) the floor, let it sit. Its
desolves the glue a bit (enough for scraping)
Do it again and it becomes translucent. Once you are
there you are good to go. If you wanted to tile over it
you can buy a latex primer (found in the tiling isle) for the
floor
and then use thinset to tile it over.

Tom

why would you put down a latex primer except for crack problems?
you want the thinset to bond to the cement floor, and your
primer will defeat that.