Crossposted alt.home.repair / rec.woodworking -- mainly because this is
sort of a woodworking question, but the wood is part of my bathroom wall.

I have received a pair of barrel hinges from Rockler. I'm going to try
to use them to hang the new medicine cabinet door on the cabinet I built
into the wall. An earlier post described how the door fits flush against
the face of the cabinet, and barrel hinges seem to be a good solution.
So anyway.

I need to drill a 14mm diameter hole into the edge of the cabinet side
to accept the hinges. The side is 3/4'' MDF. 14mm is 0.551'', which does
not leave a lot of sidewall in 3/4'' material -- about 3/32'' per side.
If the cabinet was NOT in the wall I would put the sides into my drill
press so I'd have a fighting chance of getting the hole straight. But it
is in the plaster wall and trying to do this job by eye and with a hand
drill is not likely to succeed. (This is what happens when I don't plan
ahead real well.)

What kind of hand drill-alignment gadgets are there that can help a
fellow drill square, straight, and level?

If I can run a 14mm diameter, 15.5mm deep hole exactly down the middle
of this 3/4'' -- TWICE! -- I will be a hero in my own home. My wife will
think I am quite the he-man, my kids . . . well, they are teenagers. I
might be able to raise a "whatever," out of them. But I'd be darn pleased.

--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

I have made this letter longer than usual because I lack the time to
make it shorter.
-- Blaise Pascal
------------------------------------

You can make a drill guide out of 1" thick stock, with the holes made on the
drill press. Use the hinge itself as a pattern to mark the holes. Once
drilled, use doublesided tape to secure to the side walls and drill as
needed. Remove and mount hinges.

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote in message
...
Crossposted alt.home.repair / rec.woodworking -- mainly because this is
sort of a woodworking question, but the wood is part of my bathroom wall.

I have received a pair of barrel hinges from Rockler. I'm going to try to
use them to hang the new medicine cabinet door on the cabinet I built into
the wall. An earlier post described how the door fits flush against the
face of the cabinet, and barrel hinges seem to be a good solution. So
anyway.

I need to drill a 14mm diameter hole into the edge of the cabinet side to
accept the hinges. The side is 3/4'' MDF. 14mm is 0.551'', which does not
leave a lot of sidewall in 3/4'' material -- about 3/32'' per side. If the
cabinet was NOT in the wall I would put the sides into my drill press so
I'd have a fighting chance of getting the hole straight. But it is in the
plaster wall and trying to do this job by eye and with a hand drill is not
likely to succeed. (This is what happens when I don't plan ahead real
well.)

What kind of hand drill-alignment gadgets are there that can help a fellow
drill square, straight, and level?

If I can run a 14mm diameter, 15.5mm deep hole exactly down the middle of
this 3/4'' -- TWICE! -- I will be a hero in my own home. My wife will
think I am quite the he-man, my kids . . . well, they are teenagers. I
might be able to raise a "whatever," out of them. But I'd be darn pleased.

--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

I have made this letter longer than usual because I lack the time to
make it shorter.
-- Blaise Pascal
------------------------------------

On 12/17/2004 3:38 PM Chris Carruth wrote:

You can make a drill guide out of 1" thick stock, with the holes made on the
drill press. Use the hinge itself as a pattern to mark the holes. Once
drilled, use doublesided tape to secure to the side walls and drill as
needed. Remove and mount hinges.

Hm. Lemme think about this. With a barrel hinge, there is ONE hole per
hinge. In my case, the hole is 14mm diameter, and goes in 15.5mm deep.
Right into the edge of the 3/4'' MDF cabinet wall.

Knowing me, if I taped a pre-drilled bit of stock against the wall, I'd
probably tug the tape out of place when I shoved that 14mm brad-point
drill down into it. But I could make a right-angled fixture and screw it
onto the side of the MDF -- I could patch the screw holes later and
paint over them.

I think you have answered my plea for help! Thank you!

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

I could make a right-angled fixture and screw it onto the side
of the MDF -- I could patch the screw holes later and paint
over them.

Or you could use a C-Clamp to hold your right-angled fixture in
place and not have screw holes to patch...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Could use a router with a 1"/4 or 1"/2 bit, whatever your router collet is,
and plunge placing the router face against the wall. Once you got a pilot
hole you have a chance. Whatever!
MG


"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote in message
...
Crossposted alt.home.repair / rec.woodworking -- mainly because this is
sort of a woodworking question, but the wood is part of my bathroom wall.

I have received a pair of barrel hinges from Rockler. I'm going to try to
use them to hang the new medicine cabinet door on the cabinet I built into
the wall. An earlier post described how the door fits flush against the
face of the cabinet, and barrel hinges seem to be a good solution. So
anyway.

I need to drill a 14mm diameter hole into the edge of the cabinet side to
accept the hinges. The side is 3/4'' MDF. 14mm is 0.551'', which does not
leave a lot of sidewall in 3/4'' material -- about 3/32'' per side. If the
cabinet was NOT in the wall I would put the sides into my drill press so
I'd have a fighting chance of getting the hole straight. But it is in the
plaster wall and trying to do this job by eye and with a hand drill is not
likely to succeed. (This is what happens when I don't plan ahead real
well.)

What kind of hand drill-alignment gadgets are there that can help a fellow
drill square, straight, and level?

If I can run a 14mm diameter, 15.5mm deep hole exactly down the middle of
this 3/4'' -- TWICE! -- I will be a hero in my own home. My wife will
think I am quite the he-man, my kids . . . well, they are teenagers. I
might be able to raise a "whatever," out of them. But I'd be darn pleased.

--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

I have made this letter longer than usual because I lack the time to
make it shorter.
-- Blaise Pascal
------------------------------------

On 12/17/2004 6:50 PM MG wrote:

Could use a router with a 1"/4 or 1"/2 bit, whatever your router collet is,
and plunge placing the router face against the wall. Once you got a pilot
hole you have a chance. Whatever!

Heh. Not a bad idea . . . except I reckon the 14mm brad-point bit I have
on order is too long. I like it otherwise, esp. the idea of jamming a
14mm bit into MDF at 20,000 rpm. Yee haw!

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

Life's Great Irony #146: Turtles have a drag coefficient of .03
------------------------------------

Rocket J. notes: Turtles have a drag coefficient of .03
Can you imagine how slow they'd be with more drag?

Dan

On 12/17/2004 9:17 PM wrote:

Rocket J. notes: Turtles have a drag coefficient of .03
Can you imagine how slow they'd be with more drag?

Turtles IN drag?

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

Actual Test Answers Music Teachers Have Received, #23:
For some reason, they always put a treble clef in front of every
line of flute music. You just watch.
------------------------------------

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:
On 12/17/2004 6:50 PM MG wrote:

Could use a router with a 1"/4 or 1"/2 bit, whatever your router
collet is, and plunge placing the router face against the wall. Once
you got a pilot hole you have a chance. Whatever!


Heh. Not a bad idea . . . except I reckon the 14mm brad-point bit I have
on order is too long. I like it otherwise, esp. the idea of jamming a
14mm bit into MDF at 20,000 rpm. Yee haw!

Err, he never said put your 14mm bit in the router. Read.

On 12/18/2004 6:25 AM Paul Kierstead wrote:

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

On 12/17/2004 6:50 PM MG wrote:

Could use a router with a 1"/4 or 1"/2 bit, whatever your router
collet is, and plunge placing the router face against the wall. Once
you got a pilot hole you have a chance. Whatever!

Heh. Not a bad idea . . . except I reckon the 14mm brad-point bit I
have on order is too long. I like it otherwise, esp. the idea of
jamming a 14mm bit into MDF at 20,000 rpm. Yee haw!


Err, he never said put your 14mm bit in the router. Read.

Oh, right. I jumped to a conclusion. Use the router for the pilot hole.
My bad.

--
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

If, at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it.
-- Albert Einstien
------------------------------------

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote in message
...
On 12/17/2004 6:50 PM MG wrote:

Could use a router with a 1"/4 or 1"/2 bit, whatever your router collet
is, and plunge placing the router face against the wall. Once you got a
pilot hole you have a chance. Whatever!

Heh. Not a bad idea . . . except I reckon the 14mm brad-point bit I have
on order is too long. I like it otherwise, esp. the idea of jamming a 14mm
bit into MDF at 20,000 rpm. Yee haw!

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

Life's Great Irony #146: Turtles have a drag coefficient of .03
------------------------------------

NO,NO The routher is to drill only a pilot hole. Then you can have a better
feeling when you drill free hand. Perhaps you want to go with small
increment in diameter. The router leaves you no choice on the bit
diameter.

MG

On 12/18/2004 7:46 AM MG wrote:

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote in message
...

On 12/17/2004 6:50 PM MG wrote:


Could use a router with a 1"/4 or 1"/2 bit, whatever your router collet
is, and plunge placing the router face against the wall. Once you got a
pilot hole you have a chance. Whatever!

Heh. Not a bad idea . . . except I reckon the 14mm brad-point bit I have
on order is too long. I like it otherwise, esp. the idea of jamming a 14mm
bit into MDF at 20,000 rpm. Yee haw!

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

Life's Great Irony #146: Turtles have a drag coefficient of .03
------------------------------------


NO,NO The routher is to drill only a pilot hole. Then you can have a better
feeling when you drill free hand. Perhaps you want to go with small
increment in diameter. The router leaves you no choice on the bit
diameter.

Um. Duh?

Shuffles feet, face turning red from embarrassment

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

"Bother," said Pooh, as he wandered into the meat slicer.
------------------------------------

On 12/17/2004 6:50 PM MG wrote:

Could use a router with a 1"/4 or 1"/2 bit, whatever your router collet is,
and plunge placing the router face against the wall. Once you got a pilot
hole you have a chance. Whatever!
MG


Okay, now back to this excellent suggestion which I initially
misunderstood.

To recap: I'll be mounting two 14mm barrel hinges into the edge of 3/4''
MDF. The body of the barrel hinge measures 0.558''. The mfgr specifies
14mm holes (0.5512) so this is a press-fit. A 35/64'' holes will be too
tight, and the mfgr does not recommend oversized holes, so 9/16'' will
be too loose, so 14mm it is. The hole is to be 15.5mm (.61'') deep.

I did a couple trial plunges with a 1/4'' straight router bit to get a
pilot hole then followed that my largest twist-drill bit (1/2'') and it
tore the sidewall, so a twist-drill bit is not the way to go. I have a
14mm brad-point bit coming from Lee Valley, but I reckon it will tear
out the thin side wall, also.

I don't have a 14mm straight router bit, but a test-drive using a 3/4''
diameter bit real close to the edge did not result in sidewall tear-out.

I reckon I could do the whole job with a single plunge if I had a 14mm
diameter straight router bit w/ 1/4'' shaft. Rockler doesn't seem to
have this listed. Does such an animal exist?

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR
------------------------------------
Today's Deep Thought:

Blessed are they who can laugh at themselves for they shall
never cease to be amused.
------------------------------------

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:

Go back to the template idea...make one from either hardwood or a piece
of angle if you have it (since you said you have a drill press, this
should be easy). Go with a twist or Forstner bit (although if you make
a pilot hole first, a twist drill bit should be ok). To
minimize/eliminate the tearout, clamp a piece of hardwood or flat iron
on each side...

Whether there is a 14 mm router bit I don't know, I've not researched
metric sizes, but if it is actually a 14 mm hole required by the hinge,
there has to be a corresponding tool...

I've used a lot of Soss hinges over the years, but at least when I was
using them they were English measurements...

On 12/18/2004 6:08 PM Duane Bozarth wrote:

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:

Go back to the template idea...make one from either hardwood or a piece
of angle if you have it (since you said you have a drill press, this
should be easy). Go with a twist or Forstner bit (although if you make
a pilot hole first, a twist drill bit should be ok). To
minimize/eliminate the tearout, clamp a piece of hardwood or flat iron
on each side...

I have only access to the side /inside/ the medicine cabinet. The other
side is buried behind the plaster wall.

Whether there is a 14 mm router bit I don't know, I've not researched
metric sizes, but if it is actually a 14 mm hole required by the hinge,
there has to be a corresponding tool...

Well, I've a 14mm brad point bit coming from Lee Valley, but I expect it
will tear out like a twist drill.


I've used a lot of Soss hinges over the years, but at least when I was
using them they were English measurements...

This barrel hinge comes from Rockler, I presume it is euro or Asian-sourced.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:
....
I have only access to the side /inside/ the medicine cabinet. The other
side is buried behind the plaster wall.

....

All I can say is "plan ahead"...

Drill pilot and go slow...after drilling if needed you can epoxy over
any loose area on the inside and let cure. If similar to Soss,
depending on the size, you may just epoxy it in place.

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote in message
...
On 12/18/2004 6:08 PM Duane Bozarth wrote:

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:

Go back to the template idea...make one from either hardwood or a piece
of angle if you have it (since you said you have a drill press, this
should be easy). Go with a twist or Forstner bit (although if you make
a pilot hole first, a twist drill bit should be ok). To
minimize/eliminate the tearout, clamp a piece of hardwood or flat iron
on each side...

I have only access to the side /inside/ the medicine cabinet. The other
side is buried behind the plaster wall.

Whether there is a 14 mm router bit I don't know, I've not researched
metric sizes, but if it is actually a 14 mm hole required by the hinge,
there has to be a corresponding tool...

Well, I've a 14mm brad point bit coming from Lee Valley, but I expect it
will tear out like a twist drill.


I've used a lot of Soss hinges over the years, but at least when I was
using them they were English measurements...

This barrel hinge comes from Rockler, I presume it is euro or
Asian-sourced.
--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)"
KG6RCR

Maybe a 14mm end mill used for metal work in a horizontal or vertical
milling machine? I have used them before in a router and drill press. They
leave a flat bottom and have no trouble chewing a clean hole in wood or MDF.

CR

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott"
et wrote:

On 12/18/2004 6:08 PM Duane Bozarth wrote:

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote:

Go back to the template idea...make one from either hardwood or a piece
of angle if you have it (since you said you have a drill press, this
should be easy). Go with a twist or Forstner bit (although if you make
a pilot hole first, a twist drill bit should be ok). To
minimize/eliminate the tearout, clamp a piece of hardwood or flat iron
on each side...

I have only access to the side /inside/ the medicine cabinet. The other
side is buried behind the plaster wall.

Whether there is a 14 mm router bit I don't know, I've not researched
metric sizes, but if it is actually a 14 mm hole required by the hinge,
there has to be a corresponding tool...

Well, I've a 14mm brad point bit coming from Lee Valley, but I expect it
will tear out like a twist drill.

You will be pleasantly surprised. A brad point bit has cutting spikes
at the edges, so it makes a clean cut in wood.

The drawback is they (bradpoints) are only good in wood, or wood like
materials. They don't cut metal.