Hello,
I recently had my well pump go bad after 18 years of trouble free service.
My son and I were able to pull it out and I was able to get another pump almost
identical and replace it. We replaced the pressure switch and the air tank at
the same time. Since then, the points on the pressure switch have burned up
twice about a month apart. I have checked the pressure on the air tank and it
is 26-27 psi with the power killed to the pump and no water pressure on the
gauge. The switch is set to drop out at 50 psi and pull in at 30 psi. I read
that the tank pressure needs to be 2 to 3 lbs lower than the pull in pressure
and I have that. Can anyone shed any light as to why my switches are only
lasting a month? What does the size of the tank have to do with it? I put
back a 42 gallon tank that appeared to be the same size as the one we removed.
The pump is a 1 hp submersible pump 390 feet down in the well. I am wondering
if I need to upsize the air tank? Any help will be appreciated greatly.

thanks,
Bobby

"BGBevill" wrote in message
...
Hello,
I recently had my well pump go bad after 18 years of trouble free
service.
My son and I were able to pull it out and I was able to get another pump
almost
identical and replace it. We replaced the pressure switch and the air
tank at
the same time. Since then, the points on the pressure switch have burned
up
twice about a month apart. I have checked the pressure on the air tank
and it
is 26-27 psi with the power killed to the pump and no water pressure on
the
gauge. The switch is set to drop out at 50 psi and pull in at 30 psi. I
read
that the tank pressure needs to be 2 to 3 lbs lower than the pull in
pressure
and I have that. Can anyone shed any light as to why my switches are only
lasting a month? What does the size of the tank have to do with it? I
put
back a 42 gallon tank that appeared to be the same size as the one we
removed.
The pump is a 1 hp submersible pump 390 feet down in the well. I am
wondering
if I need to upsize the air tank? Any help will be appreciated greatly.

thanks,
Bobby

Hiya, Bobby.

Without thinking about it too hard, I would suspect the check valve between
the tank and well head is not holding--this causes leakage at this point
and has the effect of spinning the pump turbines backwardes and at startup
the cooresponding hi amps draw ( yes in this situation its acting as an
unregulated alternator untill connected ) is very hard on the pressure
switch contact points.

HTH

--

SVL

Hiya, Bobby.

Without thinking about it too hard, I would suspect the check valve between
the tank and well head is not holding--this causes leakage at this point
and has the effect of spinning the pump turbines backwardes and at startup
the cooresponding hi amps draw ( yes in this situation its acting as an
unregulated alternator untill connected ) is very hard on the pressure
switch contact points.

HTH

--

SVL


Thanks for your response. I have let it sit and watched the pressure gauge and
it does seem to be holding pressure just fine. We did put in a new check valve
when we changed the pump for what it is worth.

thanks,
Bobby

curious
HP & voltage of pump?
HP & voltage of switch?

"BGBevill" wrote in message
...
Hello,
I recently had my well pump go bad after 18 years of trouble free
service.
My son and I were able to pull it out and I was able to get another pump
almost
identical and replace it. We replaced the pressure switch and the air
tank at
the same time. Since then, the points on the pressure switch have burned
up
twice about a month apart. I have checked the pressure on the air tank
and it
is 26-27 psi with the power killed to the pump and no water pressure on
the
gauge. The switch is set to drop out at 50 psi and pull in at 30 psi. I
read
that the tank pressure needs to be 2 to 3 lbs lower than the pull in
pressure
and I have that. Can anyone shed any light as to why my switches are only
lasting a month? What does the size of the tank have to do with it? I
put
back a 42 gallon tank that appeared to be the same size as the one we
removed.
The pump is a 1 hp submersible pump 390 feet down in the well. I am
wondering
if I need to upsize the air tank? Any help will be appreciated greatly.

thanks,
Bobby

In article ,
ojunk (BGBevill) wrote:

Hiya, Bobby.

Without thinking about it too hard, I would suspect the check valve between
the tank and well head is not holding--this causes leakage at this point
and has the effect of spinning the pump turbines backwardes and at startup
the cooresponding hi amps draw ( yes in this situation its acting as an
unregulated alternator untill connected ) is very hard on the pressure
switch contact points.

HTH

--

SVL


Thanks for your response. I have let it sit and watched the pressure gauge
and
it does seem to be holding pressure just fine. We did put in a new check
valve
when we changed the pump for what it is worth.

Another thing to try is putting a small condenser across the points to
supress arcing. AC condenser, twice the voltage than your supply.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

"BGBevill" wrote in message
...
Hiya, Bobby.

Without thinking about it too hard, I would suspect the check valve
between
the tank and well head is not holding--this causes leakage at this point
and has the effect of spinning the pump turbines backwardes and at
startup
the cooresponding hi amps draw ( yes in this situation its acting as an
unregulated alternator untill connected ) is very hard on the pressure
switch contact points.

HTH


Thanks for your response. I have let it sit and watched the pressure
gauge and
it does seem to be holding pressure just fine. We did put in a new check
valve
when we changed the pump for what it is worth.


Did you replace the controller too???--the caps or relay might be bad......

Also, any possibility you have the windings mixed up ???

Suggest disconnect the pump and get ohms readings, and post them here--also
voltage drop and current readings on startup and run.....with this info
others might chime in.

=====

I had a similar problem with our old tank, it has the old snifter w/ bleeder
type of air volume control.....

The tank kept waterlogging and burning up the pressure switch points, as
well as occasionally exploding the start capacitor, etc.

I had a pro in and he pulled the bleeder out of the well head and replaced
with new.......he gave the system a clean bill of health, and this has fixed
the problems so far--but he did suggest that if it continues to burn up
points I should probly use a magnetic contactor to switch the pump load so
that the pressure switch will then only see the load of contactor
coil........

As a point of referance, this is a 3 hp pump and from the weight of the
steel pipe he estimated it at around 200 ft depth--also note that with the
snifter, ours only starts out under head pressure, tank pressure being
essentially unloaded on startup via the check and bleeder valves.

Sorry I cant be of more help.

--

SVL

Hiya, Bobby.

Without thinking about it too hard, I would suspect the check valve
between
the tank and well head is not holding--this causes leakage at this point
and has the effect of spinning the pump turbines backwardes and at
startup
the cooresponding hi amps draw ( yes in this situation its acting as an
unregulated alternator untill connected ) is very hard on the pressure
switch contact points.

HTH


Thanks for your response. I have let it sit and watched the pressure
gauge and
it does seem to be holding pressure just fine. We did put in a new check
valve
when we changed the pump for what it is worth.


Did you replace the controller too???--the caps or relay might be bad......

Also, any possibility you have the windings mixed up ???

Suggest disconnect the pump and get ohms readings, and post them here--also
voltage drop and current readings on startup and run.....with this info
others might chime in.

=====

I had a similar problem with our old tank, it has the old snifter w/ bleeder
type of air volume control.....

The tank kept waterlogging and burning up the pressure switch points, as
well as occasionally exploding the start capacitor, etc.

I had a pro in and he pulled the bleeder out of the well head and replaced
with new.......he gave the system a clean bill of health, and this has fixed
the problems so far--but he did suggest that if it continues to burn up
points I should probly use a magnetic contactor to switch the pump load so
that the pressure switch will then only see the load of contactor
coil........

As a point of referance, this is a 3 hp pump and from the weight of the
steel pipe he estimated it at around 200 ft depth--also note that with the
snifter, ours only starts out under head pressure, tank pressure being
essentially unloaded on startup via the check and bleeder valves.

Sorry I cant be of more help.

--

SVL



Thanks for the replies. Ours is a two wire pump, so no controller. Before I
posted here yesterday, I added a magnetic contactor to handle the pump load as
you mention with the pressure switch only handling the load of the magnetic
coil. I am thinking this will solve my immediate problem, but was still
looking for ideas as to why I am having the problem.

thanks everyone,
Bobby

ngs on startup and run.....with this info

snip

Thanks for the replies. Ours is a two wire pump, so no controller. Before I
posted here yesterday, I added a magnetic contactor to handle the pump load as
you mention with the pressure switch only handling the load of the magnetic
coil. I am thinking this will solve my immediate problem, but was still
looking for ideas as to why I am having the problem.

thanks everyone,
Bobby

Newer motors, particularly, high efficiency ones, have a larger
inrush current. Possibly they also have a larger "kick" when the
starter (your pressure switch) drops out.

The contactor was a good idea. You may want to consider adding a
suppressor to your contactor coil to protect the contacts of the
pressure switch. See for examples:
:http://www.electrocube.com/pdf/cap13.pdf

BGBevill wrote:


Thanks for the replies. Ours is a two wire pump, so no controller. Before I
posted here yesterday, I added a magnetic contactor to handle the pump load as
you mention with the pressure switch only handling the load of the magnetic
coil. I am thinking this will solve my immediate problem, but was still
looking for ideas as to why I am having the problem.

thanks everyone,
Bobby

High efficiency motors have a larger inrush current than older
motors. Maybe your new pump has one. Possibly, they also have a
larger "kick" when the starter (your pressure switch) drops out.

The contactor was a good idea. You may want to consider adding a
suppressor to your contactor coil to protect the contacts of the
pressure switch. See for examples:
http://www.electrocube.com/pdf/cap13.pdf

I suspect you have a low quality contactor.

Either upgrade or do this:
Another thing to try is putting a small condenser across the points
to supress arcing. AC condenser, twice the voltage than your supply.







On 02 Oct 2004 20:37:53 GMT, ojunk (BGBevill) wrote:

Hiya, Bobby.

Without thinking about it too hard, I would suspect the check valve
between
the tank and well head is not holding--this causes leakage at this point
and has the effect of spinning the pump turbines backwardes and at
startup
the cooresponding hi amps draw ( yes in this situation its acting as an
unregulated alternator untill connected ) is very hard on the pressure
switch contact points.

HTH


Thanks for your response. I have let it sit and watched the pressure
gauge and
it does seem to be holding pressure just fine. We did put in a new check
valve
when we changed the pump for what it is worth.


Did you replace the controller too???--the caps or relay might be bad......

Also, any possibility you have the windings mixed up ???

Suggest disconnect the pump and get ohms readings, and post them here--also
voltage drop and current readings on startup and run.....with this info
others might chime in.

=====

I had a similar problem with our old tank, it has the old snifter w/ bleeder
type of air volume control.....

The tank kept waterlogging and burning up the pressure switch points, as
well as occasionally exploding the start capacitor, etc.

I had a pro in and he pulled the bleeder out of the well head and replaced
with new.......he gave the system a clean bill of health, and this has fixed
the problems so far--but he did suggest that if it continues to burn up
points I should probly use a magnetic contactor to switch the pump load so
that the pressure switch will then only see the load of contactor
coil........

As a point of referance, this is a 3 hp pump and from the weight of the
steel pipe he estimated it at around 200 ft depth--also note that with the
snifter, ours only starts out under head pressure, tank pressure being
essentially unloaded on startup via the check and bleeder valves.

Sorry I cant be of more help.

--

SVL



Thanks for the replies. Ours is a two wire pump, so no controller. Before I
posted here yesterday, I added a magnetic contactor to handle the pump load as
you mention with the pressure switch only handling the load of the magnetic
coil. I am thinking this will solve my immediate problem, but was still
looking for ideas as to why I am having the problem.

thanks everyone,
Bobby