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Replacing facia boards behind gutters
The facia boards have rotted out in several spots on my 1921 house.
I replaced them all a number of years ago, but was unable to prime and paint them properly at the time. Most of the boards are in fine shape, but in some spots -- because of problems in the drip line -- they have rotted. They are easy to remove (just grab 'em and pull them out by the handful!). However, these rotted boards are behind the seamless aluminum gutters. Nothing at all wrong with the gutters and I'd sure rather not pay someone to replace them. The gutters are the larger commercial size (the roof is very tall and made of tile, so they collect a lot of water during rainstorms). And there are a number of riveted-and-siliconed corners to accommodate the perimeter of the house -- it's not a straight shot, especially in the front of the house. Removing the rivets and taking the gutter down is possible, I suppose, but would be dirty, fussy work and is likely to damage the gutter channel. And I'm working alone. I'm thinking I can pull the long nails from the gutters (they go through the facia board into the ends of the rafters) so the gutters are loose, then prop up the whole line above the roof edge with poles or braces, then sneak in behind them and install new primed and painted facia boards. Does this sound feasible? Can I get away with it? Or is there some other technique I should consider? Or is saving the gutters a pipe dream? |
#2
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"Tom Miller" wrote in message ... The facia boards have rotted out in several spots on my 1921 house. I'm thinking I can pull the long nails from the gutters (they go through the facia board into the ends of the rafters) so the gutters are loose, then prop up the whole line above the roof edge with poles or braces, then sneak in behind them and install new primed and painted facia boards. Does this sound feasible? Can I get away with it? Or is there some other technique I should consider? Or is saving the gutters a pipe dream? I think it would be better to remove the gutters, altho with seamless, you have a real awkward and fragile/bendable bundle to remove, if you have long runs. Probably a multi-person job. I kinda like your idea, tho, of sequentially removing then propping up the gutters onto the roof edge, perhaps with bricks on the downhill side of the gutters. Also, think about the fascia material. Trex or some synthetic may be a better choice than wood. Whatever you choose, you don't want to mess with removing the gutters again. The fact that the wood is rotting off suggests the lips/troughs of the roof tiles do not clear the drip-edge,causing water to curve around - search google for the "coanda effect" , which turns the water directly onto the fascia and rafter-ends.. That may have to be addressed to keep even the eave rafters from rotting; let alone the attached fascia. |
#3
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"Roger" wrote in message news:bZY5d.126203$D%.124720@attbi_s51... "Tom Miller" wrote in message ... The facia boards have rotted out in several spots on my 1921 house. I'm thinking I can pull the long nails from the gutters (they go through the facia board into the ends of the rafters) so the gutters are loose, then prop up the whole line above the roof edge with poles or braces, then sneak in behind them and install new primed and painted facia boards. Does this sound feasible? Can I get away with it? Or is there some other technique I should consider? Or is saving the gutters a pipe dream? I think it would be better to remove the gutters, altho with seamless, you have a real awkward and fragile/bendable bundle to remove, if you have long runs. Probably a multi-person job. I kinda like your idea, tho, of sequentially removing then propping up the gutters onto the roof edge, perhaps with bricks on the downhill side of the gutters. Also, think about the fascia material. Trex or some synthetic may be a better choice than wood. Whatever you choose, you don't want to mess with removing the gutters again. The fact that the wood is rotting off suggests the lips/troughs of the roof tiles do not clear the drip-edge,causing water to curve around - search google for the "coanda effect" , which turns the water directly onto the fascia and rafter-ends.. That may have to be addressed to keep even the eave rafters from rotting; let alone the attached fascia. Before the roofers installed the new commercial gutters on my old house, they sided the fascia and installed soffit vents. We had the whole house sided and roofed. How expensive could hiring a pro be? |
#4
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propping, which might get in your way.
instead see if you can hang a board from roof peak just above the gutter, then hang gutter from teh board? something like that. |
#6
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#7
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On Sun, 3 Oct 2004 01:02:37 +0000 (UTC), "
wrote: | (Tom Miller) in news:415dad91.3721851 | @news.optonline.net: | | Trex | | is warpey and heavy | | to hang from above, maybe could hang from rope tied around sticks which | are trapped across the indoor framing of 2nd floor window openings. (such | as a fabled daughter would tie sheets to, when she wants to climb to the | ground and elope) I was thinking of raising the gutters and hanging them above the rafter ends so I can get to the facia boards, not installing the facia boards from above. I would work from a ladder when installing the new boards. |
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