Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
jas kim
 
Posts: n/a
Default Is my builder shafting me with the AC unit he selected?

Hi

I bought a new house from one of these bulk builders. THe house is a
two story house with two separate A/C units. I have been having some
trouble in the summer here in Florida with the unit upstairs. While
it cools adequetely, it seems to stay on all the time. Ie it does not
cycle on or off like a normal A/C when it is set at any temperature
below 77 degrees. The fact that it stays on continuously concerns me
as I suspect that this will ultimately affect its useful life.

In either case after bringing out the A/C company three times they
think it is quite normal and ok considering it is the summer and we
are in Florida.

Not being satisfied, I went down the street and noted that the A/C
units that were used in an exact house like mine from the same builder
were a bit bigger and more efficient. Now the house was more recently
built so I think that may explain why they have more efficient units
especially with the EPA continuously increasing the standard. HOwever
I am curious to know why they installed a larger unit in the other
house.

My question is whether the differences in the unit are large enough to
warrant further inquiry or if the differences are trivial. I am just
a lay man so I dont know what is a significant btu/h difference. In
either case, I have a regular unit and a heat pump unit whereas the
house I am comparing had two heat pump units.

Here are the specs of the two units in my house:

Lennox - 10ACC-036
10.9 Seers
Cooling - 27,600 - 29,000 btu/h

Lennox - 10HPB30
10.5 Seers
HSPF IV 6.95 / V - 5.95
Cooling 28,000 - 29,800 btu/h
Heating 25,400 - 26,000 btu/h

The house I compared had two heat pump units that were the same size.
The spec of them were as follows:

Lennox - 12HPB30 (x 2)
12 Seers
HSPF IV 8.2 / V - 7.25
Cooling 28,400 - 31,000 btu/h
Heating 29,600 - 30,400 btu/h

So the question is whether the differences in cooling and heating
between my units and the units on the comparison house are significant
enough to explain the problem I am facing.

Any other comments appreciated.

Thanks

jasguild
  #2   Report Post  
Joseph Meehan
 
Posts: n/a
Default

jas kim wrote:
Hi

I bought a new house from one of these bulk builders. THe house is a
two story house with two separate A/C units. I have been having some
trouble in the summer here in Florida with the unit upstairs. While
it cools adequetely, it seems to stay on all the time. Ie it does not
cycle on or off like a normal A/C when it is set at any temperature
below 77 degrees. The fact that it stays on continuously concerns me
as I suspect that this will ultimately affect its useful life.


Being on all the time, as long as it does cool properly is not a defect
and it means you should be getting very good humidity control, which you
would not get if it were oversized.

It is difficult to say if it really is too large or small without an
on site look.

When you are looking at the "larger" unit down the street is it
physically larger? It is only 0.6% more capacity, which is nothing. The
physically larger part has more to do with the higher SEER than the
increased capacity.


--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math



  #3   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"jas kim" wrote in message
While
it cools adequetely, it seems to stay on all the time. Ie it does not
cycle on or off like a normal A/C when it is set at any temperature
below 77 degrees. The fact that it stays on continuously concerns me
as I suspect that this will ultimately affect its useful life.



Not being satisfied, I went down the street and noted that the A/C
units that were used in an exact house like mine from the same builder
were a bit bigger and more efficient.


The slightly larger size should not make a huge difference. The upstairs
unit will run longer as there is a greater heat load from the sun on the
roof.

Running longer will also dehumidify better. Thee is such a thing as having
too large of a unit. To determine if yours is correct, you'd have to run a
Manual J check to determine the load. The builder may have the information
you need.

You can also ask for information an alt.hvac



  #4   Report Post  
Darrell
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"jas kim" wrote in message


While
it cools adequetely, it seems to stay on all the time. Ie it does not
cycle on or off like a normal A/C when it is set at any temperature
below 77 degrees. The fact that it stays on continuously concerns me
as I suspect that this will ultimately affect its useful life.


Not being satisfied, I went down the street and noted that the A/C
units that were used in an exact house like mine from the same builder
were a bit bigger and more efficient.



The slightly larger size should not make a huge difference. The upstairs
unit will run longer as there is a greater heat load from the sun on the
roof.

Running longer will also dehumidify better. Thee is such a thing as having
too large of a unit. To determine if yours is correct, you'd have to run a
Manual J check to determine the load. The builder may have the information
you need.

You can also ask for information an alt.hvac (Don't ask there!)



Have the manual J done, or reevaluate it if already done!

There could be several factors causing the system to not be transferring
its rated BTUH of heat to the outside!

A HREF="http://www.udarrell.com/my_pages2.htm#MY_AIR_CONDITIONING_PAGES"

If you do some homework studying you may find some things that are not
up to snuff!
Print and give to your A/C tech. He will probably say it is trash, ha.

First, check the temperature rise off the condenser, and let us know
what the readings are!

udarrell Darrell
  #5   Report Post  
American Mechanical
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote


You can also ask for information an alt.hvac


Or you could STFU and let those from that group respond here in the
appropriate forum rather than send this person to the wrong NG.

- Robert




  #6   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

American Mechanical wrote:

...you could STFU and let those from that group respond here in the
appropriate forum rather than send this person to the wrong NG.


There's nothing wrong with asking hvac questions in hvac groups.

Here's one for you:

Greg wrote:

I am looking for something a little more efficient than a clothes line.
Has anyone seen plans for some closed loop dryer that can cope with the
RH you see in the sub tropics?


How about a little greenhouse? Hang a piece of plastic over an EW line
between two poles, then string another line below it. Leave the ends of
the tent mostly open.

How open? If they are completely closed, the water vapor never escapes.
If they are completely open, the greenhouse adds nothing, compared to
a clothesline.

Nick

  #7   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"American Mechanical" wrote in message
om...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote


You can also ask for information an alt.hvac


Or you could STFU and let those from that group respond here in the
appropriate forum rather than send this person to the wrong NG.

- Robert


Why? I've met a few guys from that group and they are a rather sociable
bunch.


  #8   Report Post  
tgilb
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:Pik%c.1128$9P4.905@trndny02...
|
| "jas kim" wrote in message
| While
| it cools adequetely, it seems to stay on all the time. Ie it does not
| cycle on or off like a normal A/C when it is set at any temperature
| below 77 degrees.
snip
|
| You can also ask for information an alt.hvac
|
Best put on your asbestos suit before posting any questions to alt.hvac
being just a mere mortal.


  #9   Report Post  
Steve@carolinabreezehvac
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"tgilb" wrote in message
link.net...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:Pik%c.1128$9P4.905@trndny02...
|
| "jas kim" wrote in message
| While
| it cools adequetely, it seems to stay on all the time. Ie it does not
| cycle on or off like a normal A/C when it is set at any temperature
| below 77 degrees.
snip
|
| You can also ask for information an alt.hvac
|
Best put on your asbestos suit before posting any questions to alt.hvac
being just a mere mortal.



Why? Oh..thats right....alt.hvac is not for homeowners, and thats why many
of us post here too..


  #10   Report Post  
CR
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Steve@carolinabreezehvac"
wrote:

Best put on your asbestos suit before posting any questions to alt.hvac
being just a mere mortal.


Why? Oh..thats right....alt.hvac is not for homeowners, and thats why many
of us post here too..


Now how would your average newsgroup reader know this?

Alt.hvac seems like the place to ask about hvac stuff, until they get
flamed for asking a reasonable question,



email to (remove the "notreal-")


  #11   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"CR" wrote in message
Now how would your average newsgroup reader know this?

Alt.hvac seems like the place to ask about hvac stuff, until they get
flamed for asking a reasonable question,


If the hvac guys wanted to keep the group on a professional level, they
should call the newsgroup alt.hvac.professional Instead, a few of the
members take delight in flaming anyone from outside that asks a question,
even it if is hvac related. Unless the group is moderated, I don't see
how they can prevent others reading/posting to the group.


  #12   Report Post  
SQLit
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"jas kim" wrote in message
om...
Hi

I bought a new house from one of these bulk builders. THe house is a
two story house with two separate A/C units. I have been having some
trouble in the summer here in Florida with the unit upstairs. While
it cools adequetely, it seems to stay on all the time. Ie it does not
cycle on or off like a normal A/C when it is set at any temperature
below 77 degrees. The fact that it stays on continuously concerns me
as I suspect that this will ultimately affect its useful life.

In either case after bringing out the A/C company three times they
think it is quite normal and ok considering it is the summer and we
are in Florida.

Not being satisfied, I went down the street and noted that the A/C
units that were used in an exact house like mine from the same builder
were a bit bigger and more efficient. Now the house was more recently
built so I think that may explain why they have more efficient units
especially with the EPA continuously increasing the standard. HOwever
I am curious to know why they installed a larger unit in the other
house.

My question is whether the differences in the unit are large enough to
warrant further inquiry or if the differences are trivial. I am just
a lay man so I dont know what is a significant btu/h difference. In
either case, I have a regular unit and a heat pump unit whereas the
house I am comparing had two heat pump units.

Here are the specs of the two units in my house:

Lennox - 10ACC-036
10.9 Seers
Cooling - 27,600 - 29,000 btu/h

Lennox - 10HPB30
10.5 Seers
HSPF IV 6.95 / V - 5.95
Cooling 28,000 - 29,800 btu/h
Heating 25,400 - 26,000 btu/h

The house I compared had two heat pump units that were the same size.
The spec of them were as follows:

Lennox - 12HPB30 (x 2)
12 Seers
HSPF IV 8.2 / V - 7.25
Cooling 28,400 - 31,000 btu/h
Heating 29,600 - 30,400 btu/h

So the question is whether the differences in cooling and heating
between my units and the units on the comparison house are significant
enough to explain the problem I am facing.

Any other comments appreciated.

Thanks

jasguild


Did the guy down the street pay for an upgraded unit? Even an 12 seer is
no bargain in today's market. There are units getting close to 20 out there
now.

As for the upstairs unit running all of the time. Yeah that is what is going
to happen when heat rises. In the winter the bottom will run longer. One of
the biggest reasons for me not to own an 2 story home. Unless you can shut
off the stair well your always going to have heat rising.

I worked on an 2 story home in Arizona once had a 5 ton down and 3 ton up.
The 3 ton never shut off during the summer months. The owner finally tired
of the $800 a month electric bills remodeled the 6 month old home with doors
at the top of the stairs so that the upstairs unit would cycle during the
summer. The upstairs unit quit working on the third year.

If you planning on staying in the home check the insulation in the attic. At
the beginning of the summer I added R-19 to my attic, (home built in 1999)
I am new to the home, previous owner had bills of $250 a month. My high so
far is $154


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.742 / Virus Database: 495 - Release Date: 8/19/2004


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Followup: York heat pump replacement - quote sounds high, thoughts? Peter Drier Home Repair 5 June 26th 04 07:31 AM
F&G Concept 2000 Consumer Unit Live Busbar Query Andy Taylor UK diy 1 September 3rd 03 01:52 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:09 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2025 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"