Hi all,

I'm working on the toilet plumbing that was installed right after the
last ice age. :-)

Below the toilet, I had a female cast iron hub with a 4" lead pipe
inserted which came up to mate with the horn on the bottom of the
toilet. The top of the lead pipe was pretty chewed up and would not make
an air tight seal in the event of a stoppage and overflow. I decided to
remove the lead pipe from the female cast iron and convert to 4" pvc with
a conversion gasket.

I've got the protruding lead pipe cut off but it appears that there is a
steel sleeve holding the lead pipe in place in the 4" cast iron female.
My recip saw with metal cutting blade won't even put a dent in it. How
do I get this #$%^&^^ sleeve out? Perhaps some kinda "dent puller"???

Any suggestions really appreciated.

On 9/15/20 10:06 AM, G.B. Cricket wrote:
Hi all,

I'm working on the toilet plumbing that was installed right after the
last ice age. :-)

Below the toilet, I had a female cast iron hub with a 4" lead pipe
inserted which came up to mate with the horn on the bottom of the
toilet. The top of the lead pipe was pretty chewed up and would not make
an air tight seal in the event of a stoppage and overflow. I decided to
remove the lead pipe from the female cast iron and convert to 4" pvc with
a conversion gasket.

I've got the protruding lead pipe cut off but it appears that there is a
steel sleeve holding the lead pipe in place in the 4" cast iron female.
My recip saw with metal cutting blade won't even put a dent in it. How
do I get this #$%^&^^ sleeve out? Perhaps some kinda "dent puller"???

Any suggestions really appreciated.

Cutoff wheel on angle grinder???????

On Tue, 15 Sep 2020 10:12:13 -0500, Dean Hoffman wrote:



Any suggestions really appreciated.

Cutoff wheel on angle grinder???????



I'll bet that would work but my angle grinder is too large to fit. Do
they rent a smaller angle grinder?

On 9/15/20 12:04 PM, G.B. Cricket wrote:
On Tue, 15 Sep 2020 10:12:13 -0500, Dean Hoffman wrote:



Any suggestions really appreciated.

Cutoff wheel on angle grinder???????



I'll bet that would work but my angle grinder is too large to fit. Do
they rent a smaller angle grinder?


Don't know. My thought was that you cut the whole pipe off from
the outside then use something like a Dresser coupler to reconnect things.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dresser-Couplings-25891000?utm_source=bingad&utm_medium=dsa&msclkid= a2e87255948711cc0a4a2d35620d6388
They look like the stuff above. I'm familiar with them because I
worked with irrigation. There could be cheaper options. I didn't
spend a lot of time looking.

On Tue, 15 Sep 2020 15:06:42 +0000 (UTC), "G.B. Cricket"
wrote:

Hi all,

I'm working on the toilet plumbing that was installed right after the
last ice age. :-)

Below the toilet, I had a female cast iron hub with a 4" lead pipe
inserted which came up to mate with the horn on the bottom of the
toilet. The top of the lead pipe was pretty chewed up and would not make
an air tight seal in the event of a stoppage and overflow. I decided to
remove the lead pipe from the female cast iron and convert to 4" pvc with
a conversion gasket.

I've got the protruding lead pipe cut off but it appears that there is a
steel sleeve holding the lead pipe in place in the 4" cast iron female.
My recip saw with metal cutting blade won't even put a dent in it. How
do I get this #$%^&^^ sleeve out? Perhaps some kinda "dent puller"???

Any suggestions really appreciated.

That is solder. A big torch will melt it. If you do grind it, wear a
respirator, not your N-0 mask.

On 9/15/20 10:06 AM, G.B. Cricket wrote:
Hi all,

I'm working on the toilet plumbing that was installed right after the
last ice age. :-)

Below the toilet, I had a female cast iron hub with a 4" lead pipe
inserted which came up to mate with the horn on the bottom of the
toilet. The top of the lead pipe was pretty chewed up and would not make
an air tight seal in the event of a stoppage and overflow. I decided to
remove the lead pipe from the female cast iron and convert to 4" pvc with
a conversion gasket.

I've got the protruding lead pipe cut off but it appears that there is a
steel sleeve holding the lead pipe in place in the 4" cast iron female.
My recip saw with metal cutting blade won't even put a dent in it. How
do I get this #$%^&^^ sleeve out? Perhaps some kinda "dent puller"???

Any suggestions really appreciated.

There are cheaper, PVC versions of the dresser couplers I
suggested earlier.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-S110-40-4-PVC-Sch-40-Compression-Coupling-PVC-White-Buna-N-Gasket?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIquiVve7r6wIVg8DACh0aCAf9E AQYBCABEgIDFvD_BwE

There are some weird things about pipe sizing. The details escape
me right now. Metal vs. pvc.
I don't have any idea about inspections and such if required.

On Tuesday, September 15, 2020 at 3:23:41 PM UTC-4, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/15/20 10:06 AM, G.B. Cricket wrote:
Hi all,

I'm working on the toilet plumbing that was installed right after the
last ice age. :-)

Below the toilet, I had a female cast iron hub with a 4" lead pipe
inserted which came up to mate with the horn on the bottom of the
toilet. The top of the lead pipe was pretty chewed up and would not make
an air tight seal in the event of a stoppage and overflow. I decided to
remove the lead pipe from the female cast iron and convert to 4" pvc with
a conversion gasket.

I've got the protruding lead pipe cut off but it appears that there is a
steel sleeve holding the lead pipe in place in the 4" cast iron female.
My recip saw with metal cutting blade won't even put a dent in it. How
do I get this #$%^&^^ sleeve out? Perhaps some kinda "dent puller"???

Any suggestions really appreciated.

There are cheaper, PVC versions of the dresser couplers I
suggested earlier.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Spears-S110-40-4-PVC-Sch-40-Compression-Coupling-PVC-White-Buna-N-Gasket?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIquiVve7r6wIVg8DACh0aCAf9E AQYBCABEgIDFvD_BwE

There are some weird things about pipe sizing. The details escape
me right now. Metal vs. pvc.
I don't have any idea about inspections and such if required.
Start from the bottom. Ask local fire dept for a quick cut. Replace all. 5 minute job before your job. Been there. Fire dept likes practice if small town. I fernco'd my **** together.

On 9/15/2020 1:21 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 9/15/20 12:04 PM, G.B. Cricket wrote:
On Tue, 15 Sep 2020 10:12:13 -0500, Dean Hoffman wrote:



Any suggestions really appreciated.

Â*Â*Â*Â*Â* Cutoff wheel on angle grinder???????



I'll bet that would work but my angle grinder is too large to fit.Â* Do
they rent a smaller angle grinder?


Â*Â*Â*Â* Don't know.Â* My thought was that you cut the whole pipe off from
the outside then use something like a Dresser coupler to reconnect things.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dresser-Couplings-25891000?utm_source=bingad&utm_medium=dsa&msclkid= a2e87255948711cc0a4a2d35620d6388

Â*Â* They look like the stuff above.Â*Â* I'm familiar with them because I
worked with irrigation.Â*Â* There could be cheaper options.Â* I didn't
spend a lot of time looking.
In my previous house I wanted to use one of those offset flanges on a
toilet to move it over 2". Yeah, for 2" I did all this! But, it was a
very small 2 piece room and every inch was important. The floor was
concrete. I used my router, believe it or not, with a small cut-off
wheel attached via an extension. I had to slow the router considerably
using an external speed controller ... I think I borrowed a variac from
work to do it. Cutting the cast iron wasn't the hard part here.
Breaking the concrete was. I had to go out and rent a jack hammer to do
it. Sucess!

On Tue, 15 Sep 2020 14:06:54 -0400, gfretwell wrote:


That is solder. A big torch will melt it. If you do grind it, wear a
respirator, not your N-0 mask.


I'm thinking it must be a cast iron ring as my recip saw will not even
put a scratch on it. I put a 90 head on my dremel and I was snapping cut-
off wheels in a matter of seconds. Still no marks on the sleeve.

The torch comes next. Or maybe I need to follow others that say get a
quick cut from the fire dept .....

On Wed, 16 Sep 2020 07:59:52 -0400, Todesco wrote:

In my previous house I wanted to use one of those offset flanges on a
toilet to move it over 2". Yeah, for 2" I did all this! But, it was a
very small 2 piece room and every inch was important. The floor was
concrete. I used my router, believe it or not, with a small cut-off
wheel attached via an extension. I had to slow the router considerably
using an external speed controller ... I think I borrowed a variac from
work to do it. Cutting the cast iron wasn't the hard part here.
Breaking the concrete was. I had to go out and rent a jack hammer to do
it. Sucess!



Finally bought a Bauer SDS hammer-drill from harbor freight and a chisel-
cut blade. I put the hammer-drill on "hammer only" and brought the
chisel blade to position on on top of the insert inside the lead pipe.
The insert turned out to be cast iron (about 1/16" thick) and the hammer
cracked it out in less than a minute.

At this point, removed the remains of the lead pipe, dug out the cast
lead and oakum (that had surrounded the lead pipe) and installed a 4" pvc
conversion gasket.

Note: I could not insert the 4" lubricated pvc pipe into the gasket
until I finally used a 8 pound dead-blow hammer. A normal hammer simply
would not sink the pvc pipe into the gasket.

Thanks everyone for the ideas.

On Tue, 15 Sep 2020 15:06:42 +0000 (UTC), G.B. Cricket posted for all of us to
digest...


Hi all,

I'm working on the toilet plumbing that was installed right after the
last ice age. :-)

Below the toilet, I had a female cast iron hub with a 4" lead pipe
inserted which came up to mate with the horn on the bottom of the
toilet. The top of the lead pipe was pretty chewed up and would not make
an air tight seal in the event of a stoppage and overflow. I decided to
remove the lead pipe from the female cast iron and convert to 4" pvc with
a conversion gasket.

I've got the protruding lead pipe cut off but it appears that there is a
steel sleeve holding the lead pipe in place in the 4" cast iron female.
My recip saw with metal cutting blade won't even put a dent in it. How
do I get this #$%^&^^ sleeve out? Perhaps some kinda "dent puller"???

Any suggestions really appreciated.

I think I saw what you are talking about on a U Tube channel called
BobsPlumbing (something or other) he is from New York and I saw it one of his
vids. Try emailing him IIRC he answers them. I cannot recall if he removed the
sleeve or not. Sorry I can't be more of a help but it's a lead.. Oh yeah he
still uses lead bends because that is the only thing that will fit in old
houses.

--
Tekkie