I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

On Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?
What do you mean by energized?
The 2 wires from one 3 way switch should be on L1 and 3 and the 2
wires from the other 3 way should be on L2 and L4.

With the switch disconnected it will have conection between 1 and 4 in
one position and 2 and 3 in the other.

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1
or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

On 06/01/20 12:42, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?
What do you mean by energized?
The 2 wires from one 3 way switch should be on L1 and 3 and the 2
wires from the other 3 way should be on L2 and L4.

With the switch disconnected it will have conection between 1 and 4 in
one position and 2 and 3 in the other.

This is not what I observed. The resistance between L3 and L1 or L4 is
zero, depending on the switch position. L3 is always hot, L1 and L4 is
hot depends on the switch position.

On 1/5/20 10:55 PM, Oumati Asami wrote:
I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the 4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch, L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYFVsUqY6zc

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows. That will help
you make your drawing.

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.

On Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1
or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.
Sure sounds like a 3 way switch to me.

On Mon, 6 Jan 2020 15:06:08 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 12:42, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?
What do you mean by energized?
The 2 wires from one 3 way switch should be on L1 and 3 and the 2
wires from the other 3 way should be on L2 and L4.

With the switch disconnected it will have conection between 1 and 4 in
one position and 2 and 3 in the other.

This is not what I observed. The resistance between L3 and L1 or L4 is
zero, depending on the switch position. L3 is always hot, L1 and L4 is
hot depends on the switch position.
you appear to have a 3 way switch

On Mon, 06 Jan 2020 21:44:02 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 6 Jan 2020 15:06:08 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 12:42, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?
What do you mean by energized?
The 2 wires from one 3 way switch should be on L1 and 3 and the 2
wires from the other 3 way should be on L2 and L4.

With the switch disconnected it will have conection between 1 and 4 in
one position and 2 and 3 in the other.

This is not what I observed. The resistance between L3 and L1 or L4 is
zero, depending on the switch position. L3 is always hot, L1 and L4 is
hot depends on the switch position.
you appear to have a 3 way switch

He "appears" to have a 3 way switch, and in current reality it truly
is but his 4 way switch has an L4 terminal that "lost it's way".
Buy a new one and kill this silly thread.

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
ȯm wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.

On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 07:11:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
ȯm wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.
Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no
puzzle to be solved. A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables
connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a
3 way switch

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 11:50:57 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 07:11:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
ȯm wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.
Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no
puzzle to be solved. A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables
connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a
3 way switch

He could also test the switches. The 3 ways are SPDT. The 4 way
is DPDT.

On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 11:50:53 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 07:11:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
ȯm wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.
Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no
puzzle to be solved. A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables
connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a
3 way switch

Not in any normal wiring scenario and certainly not for the last few
NEC cycles. If it is a switch loop, you will be bringing the hot along
for the ride and if it is wired as a straight line run you are
bringing the neutral along (code now). The only way you could do that
with 2 wire is to make a switch loop to the 4 way and back from a 3
way. That is not the typical way it is done and not code compliant
now.

On Tue, 7 Jan 2020 09:03:47 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 11:50:57 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 07:11:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
?m wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.
Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no
puzzle to be solved. A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables
connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a
3 way switch

He could also test the switches. The 3 ways are SPDT. The 4 way
is DPDT.


With one side cross connected.

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 12:39:51 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jan 2020 09:03:47 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 11:50:57 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 07:11:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
?m wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.
Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no
puzzle to be solved. A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables
connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a
3 way switch

He could also test the switches. The 3 ways are SPDT. The 4 way
is DPDT.


With one side cross connected.

Yes, I guess it's not DPDT, it's a crossover arrangement where the two
on one side get connected straight through with switch in one position
and crossed over if in the other position.

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 07 Jan 2020 11:50:53 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 07:11:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
ȯm wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.

Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no
puzzle to be solved.

No puzzle for you, and probably not for me, but there is one for him.

Remember when you were what, 20, 12, 5 years old and you first looked at
one of these circuits?

A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables
connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a
3 way switch

There is no reason to think it's not properly wired, but a drawing of
the circuit should still help him. Why do people often post urls with
circuit drawings? To help.

On 1/7/20 11:03 AM, trader_4 wrote:

[snip]

He could also test the switches. The 3 ways are SPDT. The 4 way
is DPDT.

A DPDT switch is two SPDT switches that are connected mechanically (so
one handle operates both) but not electrically. A DPDT can be converted
to a 4-way switch by cross connecting the non-common terminals.

If you call the terminals of a 3-way A,B,C (where C is common) and for a
DPDT add 1 or 2 for which switch, then connecting 1A and 2B to one
terminal, and 1B and 2A to another will make it a 4-way switch.


--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"Si Dieu n'existait pas, il faudrait l'inventer. (If God did not exist,
it would be necessary to invent him.)" [Voltaire, "-pOEtres, XCVI"]

On Tue, 7 Jan 2020 10:46:24 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 12:39:51 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jan 2020 09:03:47 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 11:50:57 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 07:11:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
?m wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.
Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no
puzzle to be solved. A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables
connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a
3 way switch

He could also test the switches. The 3 ways are SPDT. The 4 way
is DPDT.


With one side cross connected.

Yes, I guess it's not DPDT, it's a crossover arrangement where the two
on one side get connected straight through with switch in one position
and crossed over if in the other position.

It is a DPDT but the only terminals are on the switched contact and
one way the switch is made, (straight through). The other side it is
made is cross connected to the straight through side, in effect
swapping the leads but the terminal is not available..

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 5:43:23 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jan 2020 10:46:24 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 12:39:51 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jan 2020 09:03:47 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 11:50:57 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 07:11:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
?m wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.
Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no
puzzle to be solved. A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables
connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a
3 way switch

He could also test the switches. The 3 ways are SPDT. The 4 way
is DPDT.


With one side cross connected.

Yes, I guess it's not DPDT, it's a crossover arrangement where the two
on one side get connected straight through with switch in one position
and crossed over if in the other position.

It is a DPDT but the only terminals are on the switched contact and
one way the switch is made, (straight through). The other side it is
made is cross connected to the straight through side, in effect
swapping the leads but the terminal is not available..

So it's a DPDT switch made into a crossover kind of switch.
That sound about right?

On Tue, 7 Jan 2020 16:30:55 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 5:43:23 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jan 2020 10:46:24 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 12:39:51 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jan 2020 09:03:47 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 7, 2020 at 11:50:57 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jan 2020 07:11:01 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 7 Jan 2020 06:18:12 -0500, Manveer Baird
?m wrote:

On 1/6/20 6:22 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:27:48 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 06 Jan 2020 16:18:54 -0500, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 14:30:47 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

On 06/01/20 10:59, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 6 Jan 2020 10:25:59 +0630, Oumati Asami
wrote:

I have a 4-way switch which is connected to two 3-way switches, the
4-way switch being in the middle. There are 4 labels on the back of the
switch: L1 and L3 (top left and right), L2 and L4 (bottom left and right).

At one position, only L3 and L4 are energized. When I flip the switch,
L1 and L3 are energized. L2 is never energized. Is this normal?

L3 is hot because the 3-way switch that that side of it is connected to
is making L3 hot. To make L2 hot, you'd have to flip that 3-way switch.

Flipping the 4-way switch changes whether L1 or L4 is hot.
If the first 3-way switch were flippted, then the 4-way would go from L4
to L1 and back, instead of from L1 to L4 and back, when flipped once and
then again.

And finally the 2nd 3-way switch connects to L1 or L4 depending on how
it is set. One of those two, L1 and L4, should always be hot and one
of them should not be.

So any of the 3 switches can turn the light on or off.

Maybe what I have is not a 4-way switch?

As it turns out, L3 is always not. As the switch is flipped, either L1

I presume you mean always hot, not always not.

or L4 is hot. This is confirmed by a multimeter testing. The resistance
between L3 and L1 or L4 is zero, depending on the switch position.

I accounted for all that. Read my answer again.

What is the problem? Does it not work? What about it doesn't work?

Have you lett things connected and flipped the first 3-way switch?

Have you flipped and/or checked the 2nd 3-way switch?

You should make a drawing of all 3 switches and the wires in between
them.

In most cases, wires will be the same color at one end as at the other.
So you can tell both ends are from teh same wire. In some cases, the
end of a wire will be painted a different color, but you should still be
able to see farther back where the original color shows.

I just confused things. If one end of a wire was colored, the other end
almost surely was too. Even if you can see the original color, the
color it's painted is almost surely what matters.

That will help
you make your drawing.


If this lighting circuit was properly wired using 14/2 and 14/3,
there should be no reason for the electrician to get out the Crayolas.

The OP is not an electrician. He's a regular guy trying to understand
things.
Which does not change the FACT that if properly wired there is no
puzzle to be solved. A 4 way switch will have only 2 14/2 cables
connected - no 14/3 requied. one 14/3 will generally be connected to a
3 way switch

He could also test the switches. The 3 ways are SPDT. The 4 way
is DPDT.


With one side cross connected.

Yes, I guess it's not DPDT, it's a crossover arrangement where the two
on one side get connected straight through with switch in one position
and crossed over if in the other position.

It is a DPDT but the only terminals are on the switched contact and
one way the switch is made, (straight through). The other side it is
made is cross connected to the straight through side, in effect
swapping the leads but the terminal is not available..

So it's a DPDT switch made into a crossover kind of switch.
That sound about right?




Yup