Asking for ideas from those who craft tools at home out of stock metal.
o Who don't just put a magnetic camber gauge on the rim or rotor

With a handful of vehicles coming due for routine caster, camber, and toe
checks, I'm thinking of building a simple wheel jig to make it easier to
lock the camber gauge FLAT onto variously sized wheel rims.

Perhaps a bit better than building this camber gauge tool at home?
https://youtu.be/Ew87fLr6Omw

But not as sophisticated as this type of wheel jig:
https://youtu.be/5koH0U3qOvA

But with the addition of toe-plate functionality of this type:
https://youtu.be/TTkSwuXKWpM

But by simply extending the horizontal arm, sort of like this guy did:
https://youtu.be/hYOVRwKrSrQ?t=661

Here's what I'm thinking, by way of asking for design improvements.
o It's two steel slats (or angle iron) and a few bolts only
o The two slats are bolted together in an upside-down T shape
o The lower horizontal slat contains the two lower seating pins
o The upper vertical slat holds the one upper seating pin
o The seating pins are simply bolts with a rubber cap for rim protection
o The upper vertical slat's pin hole is slotted for adjustment
o The lower horizontal slat's holes are spaced for adjustment

Optionally, I can add an "extension" to both ends of the horizontal slat,
which then has to clear the bulge of the tire, which extends the horizontal
slat to the front and back of the tire, where there is a jig saw cut in the
end of each extension, to hole a tape measure firmly in a one-man operation
to measure to the centerline of the vehicle chassis from underneath.

Total components appear to be:
1. Two approximately 24" steel slats (steel for magnetic camber gauges)
2. Three rubber-capped 1/4-inch nut and bolts to act as the rim pins
3. One nut and bolt to bolt the T wheel jig together

And for the optional toe slats:
4. A one-foot pair of extensions, slotted by a jig saw on one end
5. Drilled and bolted to the horizontal slat on the other end

Any helpful suggestions from those of you who have build such tools?
o Total cost should be a couple of bucks I would think
(but haven't calculated yet as the design is the starting point)

On Thu, 30 May 2019 20:30:52 -0000 (UTC), "Arlen G. Holder"
wrote:

Asking for ideas from those who craft tools at home out of stock metal.
o Who don't just put a magnetic camber gauge on the rim or rotor

With a handful of vehicles coming due for routine caster, camber, and toe
checks, I'm thinking of building a simple wheel jig to make it easier to
lock the camber gauge FLAT onto variously sized wheel rims.

Perhaps a bit better than building this camber gauge tool at home?
https://youtu.be/Ew87fLr6Omw

But not as sophisticated as this type of wheel jig:
https://youtu.be/5koH0U3qOvA

But with the addition of toe-plate functionality of this type:
https://youtu.be/TTkSwuXKWpM

But by simply extending the horizontal arm, sort of like this guy did:
https://youtu.be/hYOVRwKrSrQ?t=661

Here's what I'm thinking, by way of asking for design improvements.
o It's two steel slats (or angle iron) and a few bolts only
o The two slats are bolted together in an upside-down T shape
o The lower horizontal slat contains the two lower seating pins
o The upper vertical slat holds the one upper seating pin
o The seating pins are simply bolts with a rubber cap for rim protection
o The upper vertical slat's pin hole is slotted for adjustment
o The lower horizontal slat's holes are spaced for adjustment

Optionally, I can add an "extension" to both ends of the horizontal slat,
which then has to clear the bulge of the tire, which extends the horizontal
slat to the front and back of the tire, where there is a jig saw cut in the
end of each extension, to hole a tape measure firmly in a one-man operation
to measure to the centerline of the vehicle chassis from underneath.

Total components appear to be:
1. Two approximately 24" steel slats (steel for magnetic camber gauges)
2. Three rubber-capped 1/4-inch nut and bolts to act as the rim pins
3. One nut and bolt to bolt the T wheel jig together

And for the optional toe slats:
4. A one-foot pair of extensions, slotted by a jig saw on one end
5. Drilled and bolted to the horizontal slat on the other end

Any helpful suggestions from those of you who have build such tools?
o Total cost should be a couple of bucks I would think
(but haven't calculated yet as the design is the starting point)
If you are going to do a REAL alignment, get yourself the fastrac
unit - as I recommended in a previous discussion - it can chech camber
AND caster. Lots of options for toe

On Thu, 30 May 2019 16:55:28 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

If you are going to do a REAL alignment, get yourself the fastrac
unit - as I recommended in a previous discussion - it can chech camber
AND caster. Lots of options for toe

Hi Clare,

Thanks for that advice to just get the Fastrax camber jig, where you had
kindly previously explained that we can basically do everything with a
wheel angle measurement, in that, as I recall, you had said to me that
o Caster comes first, then camber, and lastly toe
And where the caster is simply based on the measured camber at ±20°
(or was it ±15°?) wheel angle from straight ahead (for each front wheel).

I'm going to need a camber gauge no matter what, where the Fastrax comes
with a camber gauge, and where Fastrax has optional toe adapter arms (but
no turning plates).

That FastTrax camber jig for 13" to 18" wheels is about $200 at Eastwood:
https://www.eastwood.com/fastrax-camber-caster-gauge.html
With this "adapter kit for setting wheel toe" at another $80
https://www.eastwood.com/fastrax-adapter-kit-for-setting-wheel-toe.html

CJPonyParts has the price at $170 for the 13" to 17" Fastrax camber jig
https://www.cjponyparts.com/specialty-products-company-camber-caster-gauge-fastrax-for-13-inch-to-17-inch-wheels/p/SPCTOOL9/

Amazon does better on price for the Fastrax at about $150
https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-91000-FasTrax/dp/B000PG6OW2

If I build the camber jig myself, I'll need to buy a magnetic gauge
where the price range is _huge_ starting at about $15 for this one
https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Adjustable-Alignment-Ingenious-Practical/dp/B07715X191
top well over $170 alone for this one:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Longacre-52-78272-Billet-Caster-Camber-Gauge-w-Magnetic-Adapter,283068.html

While greased plastic bags serve as redneck turn plates, the professional
turn plates would add another #230 for this brand
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHA58K2
Down to about $190 for this brand:
https://www.amazon.com/Zackman-Scientific-Alignment-Transition-Inclusive/dp/B0758Z612B/

The wheels I'll most likely be checking are from about 14" to about 18".

If I just get the camber gauge, I'm not sure which is the best bang for the
buck in terms of accuracy & repeatability, where I noticed a ton of
magnetic angle gauges on the market outside of camber measurements.

For example, this digital angle gauge is about $30:
https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Type-Digital-Backlight/dp/B00T6YZ0K6
While this magnetic digital angle gauge is about $35:
https://www.amazon.com/Calculated-Industries-7434-AccuMASTER-Inclinometer/dp/B0148M7P4O

I'm going to check caster, camber, and toe first on about a half dozen
vehicles to start with, to iron out the basics first, where once I do them,
I'll know more than I do now about making tool decisions, where, until
then, I can greatly benefit from your advice and advice from others who
have done a DIY alignment at home.

On Fri, 31 May 2019 06:11:40 -0000 (UTC), "Arlen G. Holder"
wrote:

On Thu, 30 May 2019 16:55:28 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

If you are going to do a REAL alignment, get yourself the fastrac
unit - as I recommended in a previous discussion - it can chech camber
AND caster. Lots of options for toe

Hi Clare,

Thanks for that advice to just get the Fastrax camber jig, where you had
kindly previously explained that we can basically do everything with a
wheel angle measurement, in that, as I recall, you had said to me that
o Caster comes first, then camber, and lastly toe
And where the caster is simply based on the measured camber at ±20°
(or was it ±15°?) wheel angle from straight ahead (for each front wheel).

I'm going to need a camber gauge no matter what, where the Fastrax comes
with a camber gauge, and where Fastrax has optional toe adapter arms (but
no turning plates).

That FastTrax camber jig for 13" to 18" wheels is about $200 at Eastwood:
https://www.eastwood.com/fastrax-camber-caster-gauge.html
With this "adapter kit for setting wheel toe" at another $80
https://www.eastwood.com/fastrax-adapter-kit-for-setting-wheel-toe.html

CJPonyParts has the price at $170 for the 13" to 17" Fastrax camber jig
https://www.cjponyparts.com/specialty-products-company-camber-caster-gauge-fastrax-for-13-inch-to-17-inch-wheels/p/SPCTOOL9/

Amazon does better on price for the Fastrax at about $150
https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-91000-FasTrax/dp/B000PG6OW2

If I build the camber jig myself, I'll need to buy a magnetic gauge
where the price range is _huge_ starting at about $15 for this one
https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Adjustable-Alignment-Ingenious-Practical/dp/B07715X191
top well over $170 alone for this one:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Longacre-52-78272-Billet-Caster-Camber-Gauge-w-Magnetic-Adapter,283068.html

While greased plastic bags serve as redneck turn plates, the professional
turn plates would add another #230 for this brand
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HHA58K2
Down to about $190 for this brand:
https://www.amazon.com/Zackman-Scientific-Alignment-Transition-Inclusive/dp/B0758Z612B/

The wheels I'll most likely be checking are from about 14" to about 18".

If I just get the camber gauge, I'm not sure which is the best bang for the
buck in terms of accuracy & repeatability, where I noticed a ton of
magnetic angle gauges on the market outside of camber measurements.

For example, this digital angle gauge is about $30:
https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Type-Digital-Backlight/dp/B00T6YZ0K6
While this magnetic digital angle gauge is about $35:
https://www.amazon.com/Calculated-Industries-7434-AccuMASTER-Inclinometer/dp/B0148M7P4O

I'm going to check caster, camber, and toe first on about a half dozen
vehicles to start with, to iron out the basics first, where once I do them,
I'll know more than I do now about making tool decisions, where, until
then, I can greatly benefit from your advice and advice from others who
have done a DIY alignment at home.
Crisco shortening on a steel plate - or even hardwood faced plywood -
works as turn plates and doesn't attack the rubber of the tire.

On Fri, 31 May 2019 09:20:46 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

Crisco shortening on a steel plate - or even hardwood faced plywood -
works as turn plates and doesn't attack the rubber of the tire.

Hi Clare,
Thanks for that advice, where I remember you advised me on what turned out
to be a VERY EFFECTIVE way to pop out the pilot bearing from the flywheel
of an SUV by stuffing chewed foodstuffs into the center hold and pounding
with a dowel - when I couldn't find a pilot bearing removal tool with a
small enough ID at the local parts stores!

Your experienced advice was and is always tremendous, simply because we
depend on your expert advice since we can only afford one gauge, and where
making a bad decision would be something we have to live with for the rest
of our lives given we're all old men who don't do this for a living.

For example, you once recommended these Gunson products, as I recall:
o Gunson 77099 camber gauge http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/77099/
o Gunson G4008 trakrite http://gunson.co.uk/product/G4008/
o Gunson 77100 turntables http://davethetools.com/ebay/Gunson/Gunson-77100

Where the meat is in the angle measurement accuracy & repeatability.

The good news is that the turntables, while nice, can be rednecked by
marking a ±15° or ±20° line in the concrete of my rather flat garage floor,
which means that the _last_ tool I'll purchase is likely to be those
turning places since, as you noted, adequate DIY substitutes abound.
o Steel on steel sandwich with Crisco in between
o Hardwood-faced plywood, face to face
o Plastic bags with WD-40 in the sandwich
o Linoleum tiles, greased with bearing lube
o etc.

Also, the toe plates can be rednecked:
o https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/2-wheel-alignment-system/

What's _most_ important, I think, is the angle-measurement, which is
o A parallel attachment mechanism (e.g., Fastrax wheel attachment)
o An angle measurement tool (e.g., MMT-3 Maximum Motorsports gauge)

Based on the description of the OP, an acquaintance hacked out a DXF:
o https://i.postimg.cc/fTGxCP62/camber01.jpg
Where I posted that DXF file over here to help everyone also:
o http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=g137aad201bca66d21000173620215319116e7f f7e4

And where I'm researching which free CAD solutions will modify that DXF
o AutoCAD https://www.autodesk.com/education/free-software/autocad
o Blender https://www.blender.org/download/
o FreeCAD https://www.freecadweb.org/

With my initial results being shown here using this Windows freewa
o Blender https://i.postimg.cc/LXmX8tG3/camber02.jpg
o FreeCAD https://i.postimg.cc/QMJ8wBV9/camber03.jpg

Hence, any and all advice from those who have done an alignment will be
helpful, as what matters is to get a "good" set of tools, if not the best
tools, but certainly a "good" set of reasonably accurate tools to measure
caster, camber, & toe at home.

Bear in mind, your advice Clare, has always been right on the money!
(e.g., you told me I didn't need to have a special tool to remove valve
stems, and, even though I bought the tool, I almost never use it because
you were right - I didn't need it.)

Also, you told me to not use a floor jack when I was trying to cut corners
when replacing a clutch last December where you advised me to get a
dedicated transmission jack with enough tilt in all three dimensions, which
I did, and which I was THANKING YOU to myself, as I used it for hours under
that SUV, having seen directly how WONDERFUL it is for the job it's
intended to do (especially after I removed the rear

In summary, since I'm not experienced like you are, I take your advice very
seriously, and I try to remember your well-meant helpful advice, such as
when you suggested the $60 MMT-3 Maximum Motorsports cheap and accurate
camber gauge accurate to 1/8 degree for about $60 bucks, as I recall.
https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Camber-Gauge-P192.aspx

The advice given here is great where I much appreciate the help as the goal
is to get one tool that works well enough to do DIY measurement at home.