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Furnace filters
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a
furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. |
Furnace filters
On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. Speaking only for myself, I'd use what is said by the home builder. Try to keep the warranty? |
Furnace filters
On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters.Â* It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand?Â* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?Â* We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your question: https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier. |
Furnace filters
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean |
Furnace filters
On 2/4/2019 7:56 PM, Frank wrote:
I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your question: https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are MERV 11.Â* Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier. That articles puts it into simple words. Only a few pennies more for better filtration. |
Furnace filters
On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. I like to find a good deal - and buy 2 - 3 years worth. My filters are 20 x 20 x 1 and I try to change them every 5 weeks ~ 4 or 5 filters per year no summer A/C https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/f...3472p.html#spc Presently, these can be found at our Habitat Re-Store for $ 13. each. Similar no-name are available for $ 15. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/g...5316p.html#srp MERV 8 are 2 for $ 11. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/g...3408p.html#srp Fill your boots. A piece of green painters tape applied to the filter edge with the install date marked is a handy reminder. John T. --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
Furnace filters
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Furnace filters
On Mon, 04 Feb 2019 16:40:36 -0800, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. Speaking only for myself, I'd use what is said by the home builder. Try to keep the warranty? Absolutely nothing to do with warranty. My rule of thumb is never buy the cheapest or the most expensive. Go with a known brand name. See what your furnace guy supplies - you can likely source exactly the same filter for less than he charges - Home Despot, Lowes, Cpstco, etc, |
Furnace filters
On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:12:16 -0600, "ChairMan"
wrote: Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean I have a washable electrostatic (passive) filter that I wash out every couple of months since the cats died (every month when we had the 2) |
Furnace filters
On 2/5/2019 12:08 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 04 Feb 2019 16:40:36 -0800, Oren wrote: On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. Speaking only for myself, I'd use what is said by the home builder. Try to keep the warranty? Absolutely nothing to do with warranty. My rule of thumb is never buy the cheapest or the most expensive. Go with a known brand name. See what your furnace guy supplies - you can likely source exactly the same filter for less than he charges - Home Despot, Lowes, Cpstco, etc, Amazon has Aerostar MERV13 filters, 4 for $34. I'll try them. They are allegedly equal to the top name brands. Furnace Air Filter Comparable to 3M Filtrete MPR 1500 to 1900 Ultimate Allergen Defense Comparable to Honeywell Allergen Elite FPR 10 |
Furnace filters
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Furnace filters
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. Trouble is, they don't have efficiency rating on air flow drag. Greg |
Furnace filters
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 7:40:43 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 4 Feb 2019 19:23:00 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. Speaking only for myself, I'd use what is said by the home builder. Try to keep the warranty? Homebuilders don't know or care about furnace air filters. Most can't even hire an HVAC company to do the job right. |
Furnace filters
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days? Once a season, tops for me. I frequently go a couple seasons because they are not dirty. If you live in a house with a bunch of pets and/or other issues, even then I can't see 30 days. Merv 13 vs 11, if the price is about the same, I'd get the better one. But you also have to look at flow rate and be sure the higher efficiency doesn't restrict the air flow too much. The higher Merv filters are 4" thick with deep pleats, to increase surface area to keep pressure drop acceptable. |
Furnace filters
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote: Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days? What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter. We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the paper filter twice a year. Cindy Hamilton |
Furnace filters
On 2/5/2019 8:15 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote: Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days? Once a season, tops for me. I frequently go a couple seasons because they are not dirty. If you live in a house with a bunch of pets and/or other issues, even then I can't see 30 days. Merv 13 vs 11, if the price is about the same, I'd get the better one. But you also have to look at flow rate and be sure the higher efficiency doesn't restrict the air flow too much. The higher Merv filters are 4" thick with deep pleats, to increase surface area to keep pressure drop acceptable. I'm going to see how it looks after 90 days. Of course, filter makers suggest that time so they sell you a filter 4 times a year. The 4" makes sense, but there is only room for a 1" so I'll go with that. |
Furnace filters
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:16:20 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote: On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote: Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days? What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter. We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the paper filter twice a year. Cindy Hamilton Cold air returns in the floor are not typical. |
Furnace filters
On 2/5/2019 9:55 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:16:20 AM UTC-5, wrote: On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote: On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote: Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days? What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter. We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the paper filter twice a year. Cindy Hamilton Cold air returns in the floor are not typical. My first house, built in 1948 had a gravity feed furnace. No blower, no filters, returns in the wall but at floor level. Actually worked well. Could not be adapted to add AC though. |
Furnace filters
trader_4 writes:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:16:20 AM UTC-5, wrote: On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote: On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote: Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days? What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter. We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the paper filter twice a year. Cindy Hamilton Cold air returns in the floor are not typical. Nor atypical, particularly in retrofitted older homes. Cold air returns at floor level on a wall are also not atypical, even in newer homes (as that's where the cold air is during heating season). |
Furnace filters
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:55:28 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 9:16:20 AM UTC-5, wrote: On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 8:15:04 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote: On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote: Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters. It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand? Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days? What's a typical house? I live in a 1948 masonry structure partially on a crawl space and partially on a basement. The cold air returns are set into the floors. My husband has asthma. We have two furnace filters: a prefilter and a big pleated paper filter. We change the prefilter every month (and it is dirty), and the paper filter twice a year. Cindy Hamilton Cold air returns in the floor are not typical. You're not wrong. We put them in the floor because the original ones in the wall used to wash down over the concrete block foundation. Warm house air over cold block = mold. Cindy Hamilton |
Furnace filters
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Furnace filters
On 2/5/2019 1:17 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says... Cold air returns in the floor are not typical. Nor atypical, particularly in retrofitted older homes. Cold air returns at floor level on a wall are also not atypical, even in newer homes (as that's where the cold air is during heating season). I can understand that. As my house has a heat pump I guess that being several feet off the floor is a good compromise for the air return. All the outputs are at the floor level. Just an easy way to put them I guess. Floor level outlets are common for heat. Some houses would have a floor level damper that was open for heat, then closed for the AC and a register near the ceiling was opened for AC. My new house has the vents in the ceiling but it is mostly the AC as we use little heat in Florida. I also have ceiling fans in most rooms too. |
Furnace filters
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Furnace filters
On 2/5/2019 9:16 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/5/2019 8:15 AM, trader_4 wrote: On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 8:12:25 PM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote: Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters.Â* It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand?Â* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11? We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. As long as you replace frequently(max 30 days) my AC guy sez it doesn't matter much. Just keep em clean Why would anyone in a typical house replace a filter every 30 days? Once a season, tops for me.Â* I frequently go a couple seasons because they are not dirty.Â* If you live in a house with a bunch of pets and/or other issues, even then I can't see 30 days. Merv 13 vs 11, if the price is about the same, I'd get the better one. But you also have to look at flow rate and be sure the higher efficiency doesn't restrict the air flow too much.Â* The higher Merv filters are 4" thick with deep pleats, to increase surface area to keep pressure drop acceptable. I'm going to see how it looks after 90 days.Â* Of course, filter makers suggest that time so they sell you a filter 4 times a year. The 4" makes sense, but there is only room for a 1" so I'll go with that. That is obviously all you can do. My one inch filters are 1X16X20". I change every 4 months unless there is a long spell with no need for heat and AC. Filter may not appear to be very dirty but a little sediment could reduce through put considerably. |
Furnace filters
Frank posted for all of us...
On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your question: https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier. I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine the suitability. -- Tekkie |
Furnace filters
=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?= writes:
Frank posted for all of us... =20 On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a=20 furnace and uses filters.=A0 It takes a 1" filter. =20 I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardles= s=20 of the brand?=A0 Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?=A0 We have no pets. =20 I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to=20 $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? =20 Discount filters seems cheapest. =20 I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your=20 question: =20 https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...nce-between-m= erv-8-and-merv-11-filters =20 Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are=20 MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may=20 collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier. I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibl= y=20 the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determin= e=20 the suitability. A dirty filter: 1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time (and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat). 2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and prematurely ages the blower. |
Furnace filters
On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:
Frank posted for all of us... On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your question: https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier. I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine the suitability. Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"? |
Furnace filters
Right.
Replace filters when they get dirty. |
Furnace filters
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Furnace filters
On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
A dirty filter: 1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time (and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat). 2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and prematurely ages the blower. A dirty filter does a couple of things. It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot. It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a problem. If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones. If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if that's really a problem in a house. I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.) |
Furnace filters
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 8:39:09 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote: A dirty filter: 1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time (and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat). 2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and prematurely ages the blower. A dirty filter does a couple of things. It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot. It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a problem. If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones. If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if that's really a problem in a house. I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.) I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter? Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to anything more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the companies, selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place, right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and get dirty fast. |
Furnace filters
On 2/11/2019 8:39 AM, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote: A dirty filter: 1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time (and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat). 2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and prematurely ages the blower. A dirty filter does a couple of things. It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot. It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a problem. If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones. If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if that's really a problem in a house. I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.) Very good advice. Most people think you should just change them when dirty. Saw the same thing with a water filter with my well problem. The new pump stuck in the well clogged the filter in a couple of days. It hardly looked dirty but fine pores were clogged and water flow slowed to a trickle. |
Furnace filters
On 2/11/2019 8:55 AM, trader_4 wrote:
I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter? Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to anything more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the companies, selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place, right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and get dirty fast. Every year or so I empty our refrigerators and roll them out on to the deck and give them a good blowjob with a 100 psi air nozzle. |
Furnace filters
"trader_4" wrote in message ... On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 8:39:09 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote: On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote: A dirty filter: 1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time (and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat). 2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and prematurely ages the blower. A dirty filter does a couple of things. It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot. It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a problem. If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones. If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if that's really a problem in a house. I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.) I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter? Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to anything more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the companies, selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place, right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and get dirty fast. In reality you dont get an accumulation of muck around the fridge compressor, essentially because air isnt blown over the exposed coils at the back of the fridge or freezer, they are cooled by convection. You dont get an accumulation of muck even with frost free fridges and freezers which blow the cold air thru the inside of the fridge or freezer. The most you get with my fridge in very humid weather is a bit of a burble when you close the door due to the feed of the water that is condensed out of the air before the air is moved into the body of the fridge being under the water surface in the bowl on top of the compressor where it evaporates due to the compressor waste heat. |
Furnace filters
Clare Snyder posted for all of us...
On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie® wrote: Frank posted for all of us... On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your question: https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier. I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine the suitability. Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"? No, remember it is on the suction side. -- Tekkie |
Furnace filters
Clare Snyder posted for all of us...
On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie® wrote: Frank posted for all of us... On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your question: https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier. I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine the suitability. Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"? Never claimed to be a know it all. -- Tekkie |
Furnace filters
=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?= writes:
Clare Snyder posted for all of us... =20 On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie=AE wrote: =20 Frank posted for all of us... =20 On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a= =20 furnace and uses filters.=A0 It takes a 1" filter. =20 I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regard= less=20 of the brand?=A0 Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?=A0 We have no pets. =20 I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to= =20 $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? =20 Discount filters seems cheapest. =20 I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your= =20 question: =20 https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erence-betwee= n-merv-8-and-merv-11-filters =20 Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are= =20 MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may= =20 collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier. I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then poss= ibly=20 the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to deter= mine=20 the suitability. Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"? Never claimed to be a know it all. Actually, you were more correct than Clare was. |
Furnace filters
Clare Snyder posted for all of us...
On Wed, 6 Feb 2019 14:02:53 -0500, Tekkie® wrote: Frank posted for all of us... On 2/4/2019 7:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: For the first time in 53 years of owning homes, my new house has a furnace and uses filters.* It takes a 1" filter. I see prices can vary considerably but is a MERV 8 and MERV 8 regardless of the brand?* Should I use MERV 8 or MERV 11?* We have no pets. I see filters with MERV 11 rating from $9.95 ($7.45ea by a dozen) to $14.50. Any real difference if they have the same rating? Discount filters seems cheapest. I use air filters and had never heard the term MERV so looked up your question: https://airexpertsnj.com/knowledge/e...erv-11-filters Prompted me to look at the filters I'm using and now see that they are MERV 11. Don't know about price difference but sometimes filter may collapse somewhat and more expensive filter might be sturdier. I am no filter expert but IIRC if the MERV number is increased then possibly the blower motor can overload. Research the info on your system to determine the suitability. Restricting airflow does NOT overload a blower motor. Restricted filters restrict the amount of air moved REDUCING load on the blower motor. Youknew that and forgot - right "tekkie"? If I am wrong then teach me. I have always been willing to listen. -- Tekkie |
Furnace filters
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 2:35:41 PM UTC-5, Rod Speed wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message ... On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 8:39:09 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote: On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote: A dirty filter: 1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time (and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat). 2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and prematurely ages the blower. A dirty filter does a couple of things. It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot. It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a problem. If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones. If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if that's really a problem in a house. I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.) I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter? Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to anything more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the companies, selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place, right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and get dirty fast. In reality you dont get an accumulation of muck around the fridge compressor, Compressor? It's the condenser coils fool. essentially because air isnt blown over the exposed coils at the back of the fridge or freezer, they are cooled by convection. Maybe on your old hillbilly fridge. On my modern fridge, like the other poster has too, the condenser coils are underneath and they use a fan to draw air over it. Even basic cheap fridges and freezers don't have exposed coils in the back anymore. That's so 60s. You dont get an accumulation of muck even with frost free fridges and freezers which blow the cold air thru the inside of the fridge or freezer.. The cold air path isn't the issue, fool. It's the ambient air being drawn over the condenser coils. The most you get with my fridge in very humid weather is a bit of a burble when you close the door due to the feed of the water that is condensed out of the air before the air is moved into the body of the fridge being under the water surface in the bowl on top of the compressor where it evaporates due to the compressor waste heat. Burbles? Must have missed your meds again. |
Furnace filters
"trader_4" wrote in message ... On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 2:35:41 PM UTC-5, Rod Speed wrote: "trader_4" wrote in message ... On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 8:39:09 AM UTC-5, TimR wrote: On Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at 3:16:22 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote: A dirty filter: 1) Reduces the airflow available to the heat exchanger. This could result in the high-limit switch opening, which will increase the cycle time (and blow colder air util the high-limit switch closes after the heat exchanger cools sufficiently, rinse and repeat). 2) Causes the blower to work harder, which consumes additional power and prematurely ages the blower. A dirty filter does a couple of things. It reduces air flow, perhaps very slightly to a lot. It increases the efficiency of filtration. Dirty filters catch more dirt and work better, up to the point where reduced air flow becomes a problem. If you reduce airflow enough, you might have coil freezeups or other problems. Residential systems tend to need a steady airflow across the coil, balanced to the temperature and the amount of charge. The old ones aren't intelligent enough to adjust, I dunno about more recent ones. If your filter is dirty enough, theoretically it might rupture and spill unfiltered air into the equipment. The purpose of a filter is mainly to protect the equipment, not the humans. I haven't seen this happen in a residential system but I have in a commercial one. So I don't know if that's really a problem in a house. I change my filter when I hear the sound in the return increase. That's probably about 3 months or so, I don't keep track. I just cleaned my refrigerator coils last night, they were caked with dust. (I have that stupid double A coil setup, where you can only reach the outer two rows.) I wonder why the refrigerator companies haven't designed in a filter? Same problem here, the coils are tucked underneath, you can't get to anything more than the front of it to try to clean it. Not only would it be of benefit to us, but it would be another revenue source for the companies, selling the replacement filters. These suck in air at the worst place, right at the floor surface where they pull in dust, pet hair, etc and get dirty fast. In reality you dont get an accumulation of muck around the fridge compressor, Compressor? It's the condenser coils fool. Thats part of the compressor, ****wit. essentially because air isnt blown over the exposed coils at the back of the fridge or freezer, they are cooled by convection. Maybe on your old hillbilly fridge. Nothing hillbilly about my fridge or freezer. They are the latest pigeon pair, biggest you can buy, frost free. On my modern fridge, like the other poster has too, the condenser coils are underneath and they use a fan to draw air over it. Even basic cheap fridges and freezers don't have exposed coils in the back anymore. That's so 60s. Still dont have a filter on the fan. Or on the fan that blows freezing air into the fridge or freezer with a frost free either and you dont get any dirt blown into the fridge or freezer. You dont get an accumulation of muck even with frost free fridges and freezers which blow the cold air thru the inside of the fridge or freezer. The cold air path isn't the issue, fool. Keep this **** up and your **** will be flushed where it belongs, ****wit. It's the ambient air being drawn over the condenser coils. But the same argument on the need for a filter applys even more to the air blown into the fridge or freezer with a frost free, ****wit. The most you get with my fridge in very humid weather is a bit of a burble when you close the door due to the feed of the water that is condensed out of the air before the air is moved into the body of the fridge being under the water surface in the bowl on top of the compressor where it evaporates due to the compressor waste heat. Burbles? Must have missed your meds again. What else are you going to call that, ****wit ? Its rather more than just a bubbling noise because its a much bigger pipe that resonates. |
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