My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

On Friday, January 26, 2018 at 5:10:44 PM UTC-5, badgolferman wrote:
My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.


Could just need a new start/run cap or hard start kit. When it trips, is it
always when it's trying to start? A simple thing to check is to make sure
the breaker corresponds to what's required on the plate and/or install
instructions. Could be the breaker was undersized and as age catches up,
it's being pushed over the edge. Could be a bad breaker too. I had a
Ruud that needed a hard start kit at 10 years old because it was blowing
the fuse, it ran another 15 years, no problems after that.

Cost depends on what gets replaced. If it's more serious than above,
you can change just the compressor or the whole condenser unit. Or
that plus the evaporator and lines. Or all that plus the furnace.
It's probably $1000 for the low end of the above. Just a couple hundred
if it's a hard start kit.

Big problem is finding someone honest, not someone that wants to
sell you the works.

On 1/26/18 5:10 PM, badgolferman wrote:
My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.


Consider looking into a hard-start kit- a second of bigger capacitor.

--
Don't cling to a mistake just because you spent a lot of time or money
making it.

On 1/26/18 4:10 PM, badgolferman wrote:
My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

I had problems years ago running the dryer and ac
simultaneously.
It turned out a connection in the incoming power supply was hinky. It
was an intermittent problem. A bad connection is at least a
possibility. It wouldn't hurt to loosen and retighten whatever
upstream wiring you can get to.

On Friday, January 26, 2018 at 5:46:23 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Friday, January 26, 2018 at 5:10:44 PM UTC-5, badgolferman wrote:
My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.


Could just need a new start/run cap or hard start kit. When it trips, is it
always when it's trying to start? A simple thing to check is to make sure
the breaker corresponds to what's required on the plate and/or install
instructions. Could be the breaker was undersized and as age catches up,
it's being pushed over the edge. Could be a bad breaker too. I had a
Ruud that needed a hard start kit at 10 years old because it was blowing
the fuse, it ran another 15 years, no problems after that.

Cost depends on what gets replaced. If it's more serious than above,
you can change just the compressor or the whole condenser unit. Or
that plus the evaporator and lines. Or all that plus the furnace.
It's probably $1000 for the low end of the above. Just a couple hundred
if it's a hard start kit.

Big problem is finding someone honest, not someone that wants to
sell you the works.

With the above, if you're comfortable working on it, taking the cover
off, looking for a start/run cap for the compressor and replacing
it would be an option. They are pretty cheap, readily available online,
including Ebay, maybe $20. I'd also check the fan on the condenser, make sure
it's running, the coils are not plugged with dirt, etc. Low air
flow will make it struggle and more likely to trip. I had the fancy ECM
fan fail on mine when it was about 3 years old. A new one was $350,
I opted to replace it with a standard fan motor for $90.

In article ,
says...


Cost depends on what gets replaced. If it's more serious than above,
you can change just the compressor or the whole condenser unit. Or
that plus the evaporator and lines. Or all that plus the furnace.
It's probably $1000 for the low end of the above. Just a couple hundred
if it's a hard start kit.

Big problem is finding someone honest, not someone that wants to
sell you the works.


Yea, like I was ripped off a few years ago. The service man was very
good and spotted the bad capacitor as soon as he took off the cover.
Took him maybe 5 minuites to do the repair. The bill was about $ 350
for a capacitor that should cost less than $ 30. I do not blame the
service man, but the company as they have a set rate to replace certain
things. I doubt that I will ever call that company again.

I did get a good education on the system while he was here and I had him
do a few other things.

On Friday, January 26, 2018 at 7:35:14 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...


Cost depends on what gets replaced. If it's more serious than above,
you can change just the compressor or the whole condenser unit. Or
that plus the evaporator and lines. Or all that plus the furnace.
It's probably $1000 for the low end of the above. Just a couple hundred
if it's a hard start kit.

Big problem is finding someone honest, not someone that wants to
sell you the works.


Yea, like I was ripped off a few years ago. The service man was very
good and spotted the bad capacitor as soon as he took off the cover.
Took him maybe 5 minuites to do the repair. The bill was about $ 350
for a capacitor that should cost less than $ 30. I do not blame the
service man, but the company as they have a set rate to replace certain
things. I doubt that I will ever call that company again.

I did get a good education on the system while he was here and I had him
do a few other things.

I've certainly heard ones that were a lot worse, so I wouldn't feel too
bad. If he checked it all out, correctly diagnosed it, put the part in,
you're lucky compared to really getting shystered.

I have a good friend who's living with his GF in a condo. During the big
freeze, their gas furnace would not maintain the desired temp, it would
come on, run a bit, but leave the place at like 60 instead of the desired
72. So they called the service guy, he diagnosis it as a bad control
board. $800 estimate. Next day he puts in the board and a new igniter,
says it's all fixed. My buddy say, but the furnace isn't running!
Repair guy says yes it is. My buddy convinces him it's not running,
no air coming out. He goes back into the crawlspace, comes back and
says it was a loose wire, it's fixed now. He leaves, furnace still
doing the same thing. To shorten the story, this same company also
put in a new control board a year ago when the AC was not working.
And the guy told him this time that all kinds of lights were flashing
on the board, it was bad, etc, etc.

So, my buddy logged what it's doing. When it's real cold, it runs for
almost exactly 20 mins, then shuts off for exactly an hour, then repeats.
This is when it's set for say 75 and it's only 65. He had tried new
batteries in the thermostat. I suggested he listen to the thermostat
for a click when it turns on and off, to see if it's the thermostat.
Low and behold, he hears a click when it goes on and off! So, I told
him to try hooking the heat and power wire together, to force it on,
verify that the furnace then runs continuously. He won't do it.
It's also one of the programmable ones that also has installer settup
parameters, I offered to help him see what all the parameters are
set to and do a full factory reset over the phone, but he won't do it.
I think part
of the problem is it's the GF's condo and he's afraid he'll burn it
down. Instead he's going to buy a rthermometer and monitor what
it's doing. He's 400 miles away or I'd go over there and fix it.
He doesn't seem much interested in at least trying to quickly solve
it so they can try to get their money back. It sure looks like it;s
the thermostat. And it was $800 they just paid and presumably some
similar amount for replacing the same board a year ago. Now I'd say
that is getting really hosed big time.

wrote:
My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.
Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

The first thing I'd do is change the breaker, and try that.

My 220 volt dryer used to throw a breaker until I changed it, with the same amp breaker.

On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 22:10:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

I would throw a capacitor at it before I did anything. They do go bad
and will cause it to trip the breaker. Just be sure the one you get
has the same MFD rating and equal or higher voltage rating. Since you
are in no big hurry. order one on line. Next step is a "hard start
kit" if you don't already have one.

In article ,
says...

wrote:
My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.
Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

The first thing I'd do is change the breaker, and try that.

My 220 volt dryer used to throw a breaker until I changed it, with the same amp breaker.

Before doing anything, he should get one of the clamp on amp meters and
check to see how much current the AC is drawing. If normel, change the
breaker, if too high, change the capacitor for a quick mostly
inexpensive check or cure.
Harbor freight has some for less than $ 20 and Lowes has some for around
$ 50 that should be good enough for a rough check.

Most motors will draw a lot of current when first started and as they
speed up the current goes down. A good breaker will take a high
overload for a second or three while the motor is starting even though
it is more than the value listed on the breaker.

On Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 1:53:33 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 22:10:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

I would throw a capacitor at it before I did anything. They do go bad
and will cause it to trip the breaker. Just be sure the one you get
has the same MFD rating and equal or higher voltage rating. Since you
are in no big hurry. order one on line. Next step is a "hard start
kit" if you don't already have one.


One of the little mods I did to AC condensing units for customers in rural areas where there was a lot of lightning damage was to install a surge arrestor on the condensing unit. After I did that installation, there were no more blown capacitors. I was using a small 240volt unit that fit in one of the 1/2" KO where the power entered the control box. I just came across a protector made to protect AC/heat pump condensing units that's manufactured by Intermatic. It looks pretty good. ^_^

https://www.intermatic.com/en/hvacr/...ction/cd1-024r

[8~{} Uncle Zapped Monster

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 10:06:32 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

wrote:
My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.
Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

The first thing I'd do is change the breaker, and try that.

My 220 volt dryer used to throw a breaker until I changed it, with the same amp breaker.

Before doing anything, he should get one of the clamp on amp meters and
check to see how much current the AC is drawing. If normel, change the
breaker, if too high, change the capacitor for a quick mostly
inexpensive check or cure.
Harbor freight has some for less than $ 20 and Lowes has some for around
$ 50 that should be good enough for a rough check.

Most motors will draw a lot of current when first started and as they
speed up the current goes down. A good breaker will take a high
overload for a second or three while the motor is starting even though
it is more than the value listed on the breaker.

3 simple things to check/do -and the ammeter can be used to verify.

Bad breaker
Bad capacitor
Install "soft start kit"

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 09:57:10 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 1:53:33 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 22:10:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

I would throw a capacitor at it before I did anything. They do go bad
and will cause it to trip the breaker. Just be sure the one you get
has the same MFD rating and equal or higher voltage rating. Since you
are in no big hurry. order one on line. Next step is a "hard start
kit" if you don't already have one.


One of the little mods I did to AC condensing units for customers in rural areas where there was a lot of lightning damage was to install a surge arrestor on the condensing unit. After I did that installation, there were no more blown capacitors. I was using a small 240volt unit that fit in one of the 1/2" KO where the power entered the control box. I just came across a protector made to protect AC/heat pump condensing units that's manufactured by Intermatic. It looks pretty good. ^_^

https://www.intermatic.com/en/hvacr/...ction/cd1-024r

[8~{} Uncle Zapped Monster

I put a whole house protector on mine. They are not that much. There
is also a rod there bonded to the GES. Same is true of the sub that
feeds the house and the main. (Protector and rod in the GES)
Lightning has never been an issue for me and this is Florida.

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 19:46:24 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 09:57:10 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 1:53:33 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 22:10:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

I would throw a capacitor at it before I did anything. They do go bad
and will cause it to trip the breaker. Just be sure the one you get
has the same MFD rating and equal or higher voltage rating. Since you
are in no big hurry. order one on line. Next step is a "hard start
kit" if you don't already have one.


One of the little mods I did to AC condensing units for customers in rural areas where there was a lot of lightning damage was to install a surge arrestor on the condensing unit. After I did that installation, there were no more blown capacitors. I was using a small 240volt unit that fit in one of the 1/2" KO where the power entered the control box. I just came across a protector made to protect AC/heat pump condensing units that's manufactured by Intermatic. It looks pretty good. ^_^

https://www.intermatic.com/en/hvacr/...ction/cd1-024r

[8~{} Uncle Zapped Monster

I put a whole house protector on mine. They are not that much. There
is also a rod there bonded to the GES. Same is true of the sub that
feeds the house and the main. (Protector and rod in the GES)
Lightning has never been an issue for me and this is Florida.


Not sure how much benefit I'm getting from the whole house surge
protector I installed with my new panel, as I never had a known surge
problem from lightning or anything else in over 35 years without one.

Idecided to put one in as "insurance"

On Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 6:46:34 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 09:57:10 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 1:53:33 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 22:10:37 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

My Ruud AC unit is 14-15 years old. This past summer it was tripping
the circuit breaker 1-2 times a day. I tried to schedule an inspection
a couple weeks ago but they say it needs to run for them to check it
out and there's plenty of time to schedule an appointment. In the
meantime I had an electrician over for a different job and he says if
the breaker is tripping it most likely is the compressor and the unit
has to be changed.

Is there a way I can check this myself? What's the typical cost for
such a unit? The gas furnace is Ruud also. My ranch house is 1800+
sq/ft.

I would throw a capacitor at it before I did anything. They do go bad
and will cause it to trip the breaker. Just be sure the one you get
has the same MFD rating and equal or higher voltage rating. Since you
are in no big hurry. order one on line. Next step is a "hard start
kit" if you don't already have one.


One of the little mods I did to AC condensing units for customers in rural areas where there was a lot of lightning damage was to install a surge arrestor on the condensing unit. After I did that installation, there were no more blown capacitors. I was using a small 240volt unit that fit in one of the 1/2" KO where the power entered the control box. I just came across a protector made to protect AC/heat pump condensing units that's manufactured by Intermatic. It looks pretty good. ^_^

https://www.intermatic.com/en/hvacr/...ction/cd1-024r

[8~{} Uncle Zapped Monster

I put a whole house protector on mine. They are not that much. There
is also a rod there bonded to the GES. Same is true of the sub that
feeds the house and the main. (Protector and rod in the GES)
Lightning has never been an issue for me and this is Florida.


"Not that much" is something that will make a lot of customers howl. I think I was paying $25 for the small cube surge arrestors that fit in a 1/2" knock out. That protector from Intermatic also connects to the 24vac control circuit and will shut down the condensing unit to prevent compresser killing power glitches including power blinks that cause short cycling. I used to add the little cube timers to the control circuit to protect against short cycling. I haven't been able to work for a while so I've no idea what the supply houses are selling now. It's very frustrating to be unable to get up and go. All I need are new knees and shoulders. There's no brain replacement available yet so I won't be getting one of those. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Broken Monster

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 21:33:00 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 19:46:24 -0500, wrote:

I put a whole house protector on mine. They are not that much. There
is also a rod there bonded to the GES. Same is true of the sub that
feeds the house and the main. (Protector and rod in the GES)
Lightning has never been an issue for me and this is Florida.


Not sure how much benefit I'm getting from the whole house surge
protector I installed with my new panel, as I never had a known surge
problem from lightning or anything else in over 35 years without one.

Idecided to put one in as "insurance"

Lightning damage is really a pretty rare thing up north. What you are
getting with your protector is it will clamp transients from line to
line and line to neutral at some fairly safe voltage. It does not do
anything for your multi input equipment like TVs, Modems and wired
phones. You also need that protection coordinated with protectors on
the cable, phone and satellite preferably grounded to the same point
very near by. If all of your wires come in at the same place, that is
fairly easy. A couple cycles ago the NEC made it easier with a single
bus bar intersystem grounding connection at the point where the
service comes in.

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 21:10:54 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 6:46:34 PM UTC-6, wrote:


"Not that much" is something that will make a lot of customers howl. I think I was paying $25 for the small cube surge arrestors that fit in a 1/2" knock out. That protector from Intermatic also connects to the 24vac control circuit and will shut down the condensing unit to prevent compresser killing power glitches including power blinks that cause short cycling. I used to add the little cube timers to the control circuit to protect against short cycling. I haven't been able to work for a while so I've no idea what the supply houses are selling now. It's very frustrating to be unable to get up and go. All I need are new knees and shoulders. There's no brain replacement available yet so I won't be getting one of those. ^_^


That is just the time delay. A lot of new units come with them
already.
I was more interesting in clamping transients and I think the DiTek
unit was about $40. They also have one that is $60 or so. I put that
one on the main and the 2 cheaper ones on the sub and the A/C.

On Sunday, January 28, 2018 at 12:00:55 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 21:10:54 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 6:46:34 PM UTC-6, wrote:


"Not that much" is something that will make a lot of customers howl. I think I was paying $25 for the small cube surge arrestors that fit in a 1/2" knock out. That protector from Intermatic also connects to the 24vac control circuit and will shut down the condensing unit to prevent compresser killing power glitches including power blinks that cause short cycling. I used to add the little cube timers to the control circuit to protect against short cycling. I haven't been able to work for a while so I've no idea what the supply houses are selling now. It's very frustrating to be unable to get up and go. All I need are new knees and shoulders. There's no brain replacement available yet so I won't be getting one of those. ^_^

That is just the time delay. A lot of new units come with them
already.
I was more interesting in clamping transients and I think the DiTek
unit was about $40. They also have one that is $60 or so. I put that
one on the main and the 2 cheaper ones on the sub and the A/C.


I serviced a lot of older "dumb" AC systems and the timer in the control box was a simple way to stop short cycling unless I installed an electronic thermostat that had the timer built in. I also serviced commercial refrigeration equipment and adding the timers to those systems that kept my customer's refrigeration systems running reliably. I had a local grocery store chain I did a lot of work for and simple things like a timer kept the compressors in their motor rooms from breaking down. Head pressure controls were another item I liked to add to the commercial refrigeration systems. Heck, I've forgotten half the stuff I did. I just remembered that I added high and low-pressure cut-out switches to home AC systems to protect the compressor from freon loss, a failed condenser fan or a clogged condenser coil. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Forgetful Monster

On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 00:11:38 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 21:33:00 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 19:46:24 -0500, wrote:

I put a whole house protector on mine. They are not that much. There
is also a rod there bonded to the GES. Same is true of the sub that
feeds the house and the main. (Protector and rod in the GES)
Lightning has never been an issue for me and this is Florida.


Not sure how much benefit I'm getting from the whole house surge
protector I installed with my new panel, as I never had a known surge
problem from lightning or anything else in over 35 years without one.

Idecided to put one in as "insurance"

Lightning damage is really a pretty rare thing up north. What you are
getting with your protector is it will clamp transients from line to
line and line to neutral at some fairly safe voltage. It does not do
anything for your multi input equipment like TVs, Modems and wired
phones. You also need that protection coordinated with protectors on
the cable, phone and satellite preferably grounded to the same point
very near by. If all of your wires come in at the same place, that is
fairly easy. A couple cycles ago the NEC made it easier with a single
bus bar intersystem grounding connection at the point where the
service comes in.


No phone, no satelite - just cable - and like the power it is
underground.

We DO get a lot of thunderstorms up here in "thunder alley north"

Just had a big one a few days ago!!!

On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 08:57:42 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 00:11:38 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 21:33:00 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 19:46:24 -0500, wrote:

I put a whole house protector on mine. They are not that much. There
is also a rod there bonded to the GES. Same is true of the sub that
feeds the house and the main. (Protector and rod in the GES)
Lightning has never been an issue for me and this is Florida.


Not sure how much benefit I'm getting from the whole house surge
protector I installed with my new panel, as I never had a known surge
problem from lightning or anything else in over 35 years without one.

Idecided to put one in as "insurance"

Lightning damage is really a pretty rare thing up north. What you are
getting with your protector is it will clamp transients from line to
line and line to neutral at some fairly safe voltage. It does not do
anything for your multi input equipment like TVs, Modems and wired
phones. You also need that protection coordinated with protectors on
the cable, phone and satellite preferably grounded to the same point
very near by. If all of your wires come in at the same place, that is
fairly easy. A couple cycles ago the NEC made it easier with a single
bus bar intersystem grounding connection at the point where the
service comes in.


No phone, no satelite - just cable - and like the power it is
underground.

We DO get a lot of thunderstorms up here in "thunder alley north"

Just had a big one a few days ago!!!

Make sure the protector the cable company installs is connect to your
grounding system, preferably right where the panel protector connects.
For the purposes of surge protection, underground is not that much
help.

On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 11:02:39 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 08:57:42 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 00:11:38 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 21:33:00 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 19:46:24 -0500, wrote:

I put a whole house protector on mine. They are not that much. There
is also a rod there bonded to the GES. Same is true of the sub that
feeds the house and the main. (Protector and rod in the GES)
Lightning has never been an issue for me and this is Florida.


Not sure how much benefit I'm getting from the whole house surge
protector I installed with my new panel, as I never had a known surge
problem from lightning or anything else in over 35 years without one.

Idecided to put one in as "insurance"

Lightning damage is really a pretty rare thing up north. What you are
getting with your protector is it will clamp transients from line to
line and line to neutral at some fairly safe voltage. It does not do
anything for your multi input equipment like TVs, Modems and wired
phones. You also need that protection coordinated with protectors on
the cable, phone and satellite preferably grounded to the same point
very near by. If all of your wires come in at the same place, that is
fairly easy. A couple cycles ago the NEC made it easier with a single
bus bar intersystem grounding connection at the point where the
service comes in.


No phone, no satelite - just cable - and like the power it is
underground.

We DO get a lot of thunderstorms up here in "thunder alley north"

Just had a big one a few days ago!!!

Make sure the protector the cable company installs is connect to your
grounding system, preferably right where the panel protector connects.
For the purposes of surge protection, underground is not that much
help.
The panel is on one side oif the house, the cable on the other.
There is no supressor on the cable, but it IS grounded. (to the copper
water pipe - and yes, the meter IS jumpered, as is the water heater,
andthe softener (bonded with #6 copper))