We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Perce

On Sun, 16 Apr 2017 17:23:26 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Perce

Thanks for sharing.

On 04/16/2017 05:37 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 16 Apr 2017 17:23:26 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Thanks for sharing.

This ng didn't improve while I was gone, did it?

Perce

On Sun, 16 Apr 2017 19:47:44 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 04/16/2017 05:37 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 16 Apr 2017 17:23:26 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Thanks for sharing.

This ng didn't improve while I was gone, did it?

Perce

How could I possibly judge that?

On 04/16/2017 05:23 PM, I wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Honeywell Tech Support says that although that training video about
repurposing the G wire is out there, it is intended only as a temporary
solution and may not work on all systems. They suggest either running a
separate C wire from the furnace to the thermostat or using one of their
Wire Saver modules.

Perce

On Monday, April 17, 2017 at 9:25:41 AM UTC-4, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 04/16/2017 05:23 PM, I wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Honeywell Tech Support says that although that training video about
repurposing the G wire is out there, it is intended only as a temporary
solution and may not work on all systems. They suggest either running a
separate C wire from the furnace to the thermostat or using one of their
Wire Saver modules.

Perce

I don;t think Honeywell knows what they are talking about. If it
works temporarily, then why would it not work permanently? All you're
doing is eliminating the wire that you had that optionally turns on
the fan manually and re-purposing that wire to be used as the common
back to the transformer so that the thermostat has power.

I can't explain what you're seeing though. The "wait" is normal if
power has been interrupted or if you're trying to start the AC after
the thermostat thinks it's been running very recently. It wants to
wait ~ 5 mins for the pressure to reduce. Are you sure you have the
wire going to the common side of the transformer and not somewhere else?
It looks like it's losing power somehow when it tries to switch on
the AC, ie, it waits 5 mins, then when it closes the relay to activate
the compressor contactor, it loses power. I would be very surprised if
you ran a new wire to the same place you have the re-purposed G wire
connected now, reconnected the G wire as the fan wire, and it worked.

On 04/17/2017 12:07 PM, trader_4 wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Honeywell Tech Support says that although that training video about
repurposing the G wire is out there, it is intended only as a temporary
solution and may not work on all systems. They suggest either running a
separate C wire from the furnace to the thermostat or using one of their
Wire Saver modules.

I don;t think Honeywell knows what they are talking about. If it
works temporarily, then why would it not work permanently?

Is it possible that it's unduly stressing the system somehow?

All you're
doing is eliminating the wire that you had that optionally turns on
the fan manually and re-purposing that wire to be used as the common
back to the transformer so that the thermostat has power.

I can't explain what you're seeing though. The "wait" is normal if
power has been interrupted or if you're trying to start the AC after
the thermostat thinks it's been running very recently. It wants to
wait ~ 5 mins for the pressure to reduce. Are you sure you have the
wire going to the common side of the transformer and not somewhere else?

The re-purposed G wire is going to the C terminal both at the thermostat
and at the HVAC unit.

There is a skinny 2-conductor cable connected to R and C that looks as
though it goes off to the outdoor A/C unit.

It looks like it's losing power somehow when it tries to switch on
the AC, ie, it waits 5 mins, then when it closes the relay to activate
the compressor contactor, it loses power. I would be very surprised if
you ran a new wire to the same place you have the re-purposed G wire
connected now, reconnected the G wire as the fan wire, and it worked.

Everything worked fine with an RTH7400 and the original connections; of
course that thermostat did not need the C wire, since it was powered by
its two internal AA cells.

Perce

On Mon, 17 Apr 2017 09:07:26 -0700 (PDT)
trader_4 wrote:

I don;t think

Well there you go then, Everyone else is wrong..WTF??

On Monday, April 17, 2017 at 3:15:01 PM UTC-4, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 04/17/2017 12:07 PM, trader_4 wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Honeywell Tech Support says that although that training video about
repurposing the G wire is out there, it is intended only as a temporary
solution and may not work on all systems. They suggest either running a
separate C wire from the furnace to the thermostat or using one of their
Wire Saver modules.

I don;t think Honeywell knows what they are talking about. If it
works temporarily, then why would it not work permanently?

Is it possible that it's unduly stressing the system somehow?

How can it possibly be over stressing the system? All you did was
remove the G wire that's used to optionally turn on the fan from the
thermostat and then use that wire as the common to supply power to
the thermostat. It's no different than if you ran a new wire for
the common and disconnected the fan control wire, which, AFAIK,
is optional.



All you're
doing is eliminating the wire that you had that optionally turns on
the fan manually and re-purposing that wire to be used as the common
back to the transformer so that the thermostat has power.

I can't explain what you're seeing though. The "wait" is normal if
power has been interrupted or if you're trying to start the AC after
the thermostat thinks it's been running very recently. It wants to
wait ~ 5 mins for the pressure to reduce. Are you sure you have the
wire going to the common side of the transformer and not somewhere else?

The re-purposed G wire is going to the C terminal both at the thermostat
and at the HVAC unit.

That seems right. Have you put a volt meter on the R and C coming to the
thermostat and monitored what happens when it calls for AC? Particularly
after the delay, when it craps out?


There is a skinny 2-conductor cable connected to R and C that looks as
though it goes off to the outdoor A/C unit.


That doesn't seem right. The wires going to the outdoor unit should
be coming from the control board. One side is common, the other side
should be the control signal from the furnace control board that goes
to the contactor to turn it on. If R and C were going to the contactor,
then teh compressor would be on all the time, no?

On 04/17/2017 08:07 PM, trader_4 wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Honeywell Tech Support says that although that training video about
repurposing the G wire is out there, it is intended only as a temporary
solution and may not work on all systems. They suggest either running a
separate C wire from the furnace to the thermostat or using one of their
Wire Saver modules.

I don;t think Honeywell knows what they are talking about. If it
works temporarily, then why would it not work permanently?

Is it possible that it's unduly stressing the system somehow?

How can it possibly be over stressing the system? All you did was
remove the G wire that's used to optionally turn on the fan from the
thermostat and then use that wire as the common to supply power to
the thermostat. It's no different than if you ran a new wire for
the common and disconnected the fan control wire, which, AFAIK,
is optional.

But could jumpering G and Y be doing anything undesirable?

All you're
doing is eliminating the wire that you had that optionally turns on
the fan manually and re-purposing that wire to be used as the common
back to the transformer so that the thermostat has power.

I can't explain what you're seeing though. The "wait" is normal if
power has been interrupted or if you're trying to start the AC after
the thermostat thinks it's been running very recently. It wants to
wait ~ 5 mins for the pressure to reduce. Are you sure you have the
wire going to the common side of the transformer and not somewhere else?

The re-purposed G wire is going to the C terminal both at the thermostat
and at the HVAC unit.

That seems right. Have you put a volt meter on the R and C coming to the
thermostat and monitored what happens when it calls for AC? Particularly
after the delay, when it craps out?

No, I haven't. There's no place to do that easily. There isn't enough
slack in the wiring at the thermostat end to make any connections, and
at the furnace end, removing the cover will kill the power to it.

There is a skinny 2-conductor cable connected to R and C that looks as
though it goes off to the outdoor A/C unit.


That doesn't seem right. The wires going to the outdoor unit should
be coming from the control board. One side is common, the other side
should be the control signal from the furnace control board that goes
to the contactor to turn it on. If R and C were going to the contactor,
then teh compressor would be on all the time, no?

Here's the link to a picture of the wiring at the furnace before I
re-purposed the G wire and installed the G-to-Y jumper:


https://www.dropbox.com/pri/get/HVAC...IBFRSosP3lypgA

Ah, but now I think I see that that two-conductor cable goes to C and Y,
not C and R.

Perce

On Monday, April 17, 2017 at 9:00:10 PM UTC-4, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 04/17/2017 08:07 PM, trader_4 wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Honeywell Tech Support says that although that training video about
repurposing the G wire is out there, it is intended only as a temporary
solution and may not work on all systems. They suggest either running a
separate C wire from the furnace to the thermostat or using one of their
Wire Saver modules.

I don;t think Honeywell knows what they are talking about. If it
works temporarily, then why would it not work permanently?

Is it possible that it's unduly stressing the system somehow?

How can it possibly be over stressing the system? All you did was
remove the G wire that's used to optionally turn on the fan from the
thermostat and then use that wire as the common to supply power to
the thermostat. It's no different than if you ran a new wire for
the common and disconnected the fan control wire, which, AFAIK,
is optional.

But could jumpering G and Y be doing anything undesirable?

All you're
doing is eliminating the wire that you had that optionally turns on
the fan manually and re-purposing that wire to be used as the common
back to the transformer so that the thermostat has power.

I can't explain what you're seeing though. The "wait" is normal if
power has been interrupted or if you're trying to start the AC after
the thermostat thinks it's been running very recently. It wants to
wait ~ 5 mins for the pressure to reduce. Are you sure you have the
wire going to the common side of the transformer and not somewhere else?

The re-purposed G wire is going to the C terminal both at the thermostat
and at the HVAC unit.

That seems right. Have you put a volt meter on the R and C coming to the
thermostat and monitored what happens when it calls for AC? Particularly
after the delay, when it craps out?

No, I haven't. There's no place to do that easily. There isn't enough
slack in the wiring at the thermostat end to make any connections, and
at the furnace end, removing the cover will kill the power to it.

So splice some test wire on.




There is a skinny 2-conductor cable connected to R and C that looks as
though it goes off to the outdoor A/C unit.


That doesn't seem right. The wires going to the outdoor unit should
be coming from the control board. One side is common, the other side
should be the control signal from the furnace control board that goes
to the contactor to turn it on. If R and C were going to the contactor,
then teh compressor would be on all the time, no?

Here's the link to a picture of the wiring at the furnace before I
re-purposed the G wire and installed the G-to-Y jumper:


https://www.dropbox.com/pri/get/HVAC...IBFRSosP3lypgA

Link doesn't work, takes me to dropbox and wants me to sign in.





Ah, but now I think I see that that two-conductor cable goes to C and Y,
not C and R.

Perce

That sounds better. It's also possible that you might have a bad
contactor in the AC that's on it's way out? If it's partially shorted
it could draw so much current that the voltage drops, causing the
thermostat to lose power. You could try disconnecting the contactor
wire and see what happens. If the thermostat then behaves normally,
you'll have another clue. The outside AC unit won't turn on of course.

In the discussion you haven't said what gauge wire is used, I'm
assuming it's typical 20g, if it's some telephone wire, that would
be bad.

On 04/18/2017 11:41 AM, trader_4 wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Honeywell Tech Support says that although that training video about
repurposing the G wire is out there, it is intended only as a temporary
solution and may not work on all systems. They suggest either running a
separate C wire from the furnace to the thermostat or using one of their
Wire Saver modules.

I don;t think Honeywell knows what they are talking about. If it
works temporarily, then why would it not work permanently?

Is it possible that it's unduly stressing the system somehow?

How can it possibly be over stressing the system? All you did was
remove the G wire that's used to optionally turn on the fan from the
thermostat and then use that wire as the common to supply power to
the thermostat. It's no different than if you ran a new wire for
the common and disconnected the fan control wire, which, AFAIK,
is optional.

But could jumpering G and Y be doing anything undesirable?

All you're
doing is eliminating the wire that you had that optionally turns on
the fan manually and re-purposing that wire to be used as the common
back to the transformer so that the thermostat has power.

I can't explain what you're seeing though. The "wait" is normal if
power has been interrupted or if you're trying to start the AC after
the thermostat thinks it's been running very recently. It wants to
wait ~ 5 mins for the pressure to reduce. Are you sure you have the
wire going to the common side of the transformer and not somewhere else?

The re-purposed G wire is going to the C terminal both at the thermostat
and at the HVAC unit.

That seems right. Have you put a volt meter on the R and C coming to the
thermostat and monitored what happens when it calls for AC? Particularly
after the delay, when it craps out?

No, I haven't. There's no place to do that easily. There isn't enough
slack in the wiring at the thermostat end to make any connections, and
at the furnace end, removing the cover will kill the power to it.

So splice some test wire on.

I'll try that later.

There is a skinny 2-conductor cable connected to R and C that looks as
though it goes off to the outdoor A/C unit.


That doesn't seem right. The wires going to the outdoor unit should
be coming from the control board. One side is common, the other side
should be the control signal from the furnace control board that goes
to the contactor to turn it on. If R and C were going to the contactor,
then teh compressor would be on all the time, no?

Here's the link to a picture of the wiring at the furnace before I
re-purposed the G wire and installed the G-to-Y jumper:


https://www.dropbox.com/pri/get/HVAC...IBFRSosP3lypgA

Link doesn't work, takes me to dropbox and wants me to sign in.

Try this:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8s9py88fua...tions.jpg?dl=0

Ah, but now I think I see that that two-conductor cable goes to C and Y,
not C and R.

That sounds better. It's also possible that you might have a bad
contactor in the AC that's on it's way out? If it's partially shorted
it could draw so much current that the voltage drops, causing the
thermostat to lose power. You could try disconnecting the contactor
wire and see what happens. If the thermostat then behaves normally,
you'll have another clue. The outside AC unit won't turn on of course.

In the discussion you haven't said what gauge wire is used, I'm
assuming it's typical 20g, if it's some telephone wire, that would
be bad.

Look like 18 or 20ga.

The furnace is a Singer (not made since the 80s??) GC232000 series,
according to the disintegrating schematic.

Perce

On 4/16/2017 5:37 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 16 Apr 2017 17:23:26 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Perce

Thanks for sharing.


I had to reboot my phone and DVR last weekend to get them back in
working order. Next it will be my toaster.

On 4/18/2017 12:46 PM, Frank wrote:
On 4/16/2017 5:37 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 16 Apr 2017 17:23:26 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Perce

Thanks for sharing.


I had to reboot my phone and DVR last weekend to get them back in
working order. Next it will be my toaster.


After that you will have to reboot your boots.

On Tue, 18 Apr 2017 15:46:20 -0400, Frank "frank wrote:

I had to reboot my phone and DVR last weekend to get them back in
working order. Next it will be my toaster.

Sometimes I reboot the bride just to get her tuned up and working
properly :-)

On Monday, April 17, 2017 at 9:00:10 PM UTC-4, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 04/17/2017 08:07 PM, trader_4 wrote:

We have a Honeywell RTH8580WF WiFi Thermostat that was installed by
repurposing the G-wire to substitute for the missing C-wire as described
in a Honeywell online video: move the G-wire from the G terminal to the
C terminal at the furnace end, and jumper the G and Y terminals, and
connect the G wire to the C terminal at the thermostat.

Everything worked fine as long as we were trying to heat the premises,
but now that we are trying to cool down, the thermostat indicates "Wait"
for several minutes, then clicks, and the screen goes blank and the
thing "reboots."

The furnace is an ancient Singer, and I can't see a brand name on the
A/C compressor.

The same thing happens if I turn off the breaker for the 240V to the
compressor unit.

Honeywell Tech Support says that although that training video about
repurposing the G wire is out there, it is intended only as a temporary
solution and may not work on all systems. They suggest either running a
separate C wire from the furnace to the thermostat or using one of their
Wire Saver modules.

I don;t think Honeywell knows what they are talking about. If it
works temporarily, then why would it not work permanently?

Is it possible that it's unduly stressing the system somehow?

How can it possibly be over stressing the system? All you did was
remove the G wire that's used to optionally turn on the fan from the
thermostat and then use that wire as the common to supply power to
the thermostat. It's no different than if you ran a new wire for
the common and disconnected the fan control wire, which, AFAIK,
is optional.

But could jumpering G and Y be doing anything undesirable?


I wouldn't think so, but who knows? Why don't you try removing
the jumper between G and Y at the furnace and then try it and
see what happens. The jumper may not even be necessary. On
many furnaces the controller board turns on the blower automatically
when AC is called for by the thermostat and the G terminal is only
used to optionally activate the blower when you're neither heating
nor cooling, but just want to move air. That's how mine works.

If you do that test, just don't let the compressor run for more than
a minute unless the blower spins up, otherwise you'll over cool the
evaporator because it won't have air flow.