Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?

I use gasoline as a home goo-gone substitute for removing labels.
Most often I do it outside, because of the stink, but I want to keep it
inside in tiny amounts, diluted as much as possible.

I've already tried all the common home chemicals from alcohol to acetone to
lemon juice to engine degreaser to dish detergent to brake cleaner to windex
to automatic-transmission fluid and MAF cleaner, all of which work sometimes
but all of which fail often (either because they melt the container or they
don't dissolve the goo).

I've even tried common flavorings such as orange blossom extract, rose
water, pure lemon extract, coconut oil and walnut oil, which, surprisingly,
are totally useless (but they do smell the best!).

I've found, through decades of experience, that gasoline, which also fails
sometimes, works more often than any other household common chemical.

But gasoline has all the problems that most of you will love to "teach" me,
but that's not the question (so please don't try to teach me why gasoline
vapors are flammable and why I should goo-be-gone outdoors because I know
that).

Also please don't try to teach me that there are commercial lemon-oil
solutions.

I just want to dilute the gasoline and I already know that even the diluted
gasoline vapors will be flammable. We take risks sometimes when working
around the house and not being a pussy about it all the time.

So I plan to keep a small jar of gasoline properly labeled under the kitchen
sink (let's not go into the dangers of doing that, because properly diluting
it won't solve that danger for the most part).

Without being a pussy about the question, do you have any suggestion that
you think might work best to dilute the gasoline 10:1 (or even 100:1) so
that I'm using the minimum effective amount of gasoline indoors?

What can I 'cut' the gasoline with that will mix with the gas and dilute it
(maybe 10:1 or even maybe 100:1)?

Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:05:58 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote:


Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?

I use gasoline as a home goo-gone substitute for removing labels.
Most often I do it outside, because of the stink, but I want to keep it
inside in tiny amounts, diluted as much as possible.

I've already tried all the common home chemicals from alcohol to acetone to
lemon juice to engine degreaser to dish detergent to brake cleaner to windex
to automatic-transmission fluid and MAF cleaner, all of which work sometimes
but all of which fail often (either because they melt the container or they
don't dissolve the goo).

I've even tried common flavorings such as orange blossom extract, rose
water, pure lemon extract, coconut oil and walnut oil, which, surprisingly,
are totally useless (but they do smell the best!).

I've found, through decades of experience, that gasoline, which also fails
sometimes, works more often than any other household common chemical.

But gasoline has all the problems that most of you will love to "teach" me,
but that's not the question (so please don't try to teach me why gasoline
vapors are flammable and why I should goo-be-gone outdoors because I know
that).

Also please don't try to teach me that there are commercial lemon-oil
solutions.

I just want to dilute the gasoline and I already know that even the diluted
gasoline vapors will be flammable. We take risks sometimes when working
around the house and not being a pussy about it all the time.

So I plan to keep a small jar of gasoline properly labeled under the kitchen
sink (let's not go into the dangers of doing that, because properly diluting
it won't solve that danger for the most part).

Without being a pussy about the question, do you have any suggestion that
you think might work best to dilute the gasoline 10:1 (or even 100:1) so
that I'm using the minimum effective amount of gasoline indoors?

What can I 'cut' the gasoline with that will mix with the gas and dilute it
(maybe 10:1 or even maybe 100:1)?

Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?

Ethanol, 2 cycle engine oil, methanol.

That said, you are better off using wd-40, turpentine or mineral spirits instead of gasoline. WD-40 does a
great job removing labels.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:22:22 +0000, Stormin' Norman wrote:

Ethanol, 2 cycle engine oil, methanol.

That said, you are better off using wd-40, turpentine or mineral spirits instead of gasoline. WD-40 does a
great job removing labels.

Interesting suggestions!
For different reasons.

1. Because I long ago found common household isopropyl alcohol useless as a
goo-be-gone substitute, I had forgotten that they "cut" gasoline 15% in cars
using corn alcohol, so, why hadn't I thought of cutting the gasoline with
"alcohol"?

So thanks for that suggestion - but it seems to come with a problem.

The problem of course, is that ethanol isn't easy to come by cheaply, even
though it, itself, is as cheap as corn. Even in the cheapest grain alcohol
that I can find at a liquor store, it's almost certainly gonna be far more
expensive than the gasoline that I'm cutting.

So, it might work, but it defeats the purpose of a cheap home remedy.
(Unless there is a methanol source that is cheap?)

2. Two stroke engine oil. Again, this is a great suggestion (if it works).
But it too seems to come with a problem.

The problem is that, while we all routinely cut our two-stroke tools'
gasoline with 40:1 and 50:1 two-stroke oil, the cutting is in the opposite
direction. We're actually cutting the oil with gasoline, and not cutting the
gasoline with oil.

So, a reverse dilution of 10 parts oil and 1 part gasoline doesn't seem, on
first inspection, to be a viable solution (because it may be too oily, which
is antagonistic to the original goal).

3. I had tried wd40 in the past and found it not useful but maybe I need to
try it again? Like everyone, I grew up with WD-40 and 3-in-one cans always
on the garage shelf, but over the years, I have found far too many people
suggesting wd40 for far too many things, where, in EVERY CASE I ever
investigated, there was a far better miracle-in-a-can than WD-40.

WD-40 stinks worse than gasoline, by the way, to me anyway - where it gives
me a headache, so, for that reason alone, it would be no good. But even if I
could handle the stink of WD-40, from memory, it's just a "displacement
fluid" which I don't see *any* use of which doesn't have a better solution
for what it does (whether that be cracking nuts or "lubricating" garage
springs or whatever).

In short, I haven't had WD-40 around in years because I stopped believing in
miracles in a can. But if it works at a 10:1 ratio of 10 parts WD40 to 1
part gasoline, maybe that might be feasible?

4. On Turpentime and mineral spirits, I went to the hardware store recently
to get MEK and they can't even sell that in California. I think I was
looking at the other "solvents" like paint thinner, and they can't sell them
either except at "substitutes". I'll have to look again, but I've already
tried all the "solvents" that I had in my garage, which is as cluttered as
anyone's so I had plenty of paint thinners there (but I didn't mention that
in the OP).

Still, they may be the BEST bet yet, so I'm glad you brought them up.
a. Except in California, they're pretty commonly available
b. They're cheap enough to use at 10 parts solvent & 1 part gasoline
c. They are solvents so they won't be antagonistic to the original goal

I'll head off to the hardware store to see what California chemicals I can
find that are cheap and that are solvents that I can cut at a 10:1 ratio of
solvent to gasoline.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:49:21 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote:


I'll head off to the hardware store to see what California chemicals I can
find that are cheap and that are solvents that I can cut at a 10:1 ratio of
solvent to gasoline.

I will reiterate my recommendation, use WD-40 for label removal. If the odor is too offensive for your manly
sensibilities, buy the product in liquid form. If you do not atomize it with a spray, the odor is far less
pervasive.

With WD-40, apply a light layer to the label and just let it sit for a little while. Come back in 10 - 15
minutes and the adhesive will have dissolved and the label will slide off with virtually no work.

If you need a powerful solvent that will dissolve almost anything else, buy a can of lacquer thinner (yes, it
is available in California) LT is unbelievable in it's utility.

Use of and storage of gasoline and other highly carcinogenic chemicals mixtures inside the living area of a
residence is as inadvisable as smoking or leaving a loaded, unlocked firearm where might be accessible by a 5
year old child.

Stormin' Norman wrote:

I will reiterate my recommendation, use WD-40 for label removal. If
the odor is too offensive for your manly sensibilities, buy the
product in liquid form.

Dedicated label remover is better than WD-40 and the orange smell is
quite nice.

https://youtu.be/b4Cu1tYpc64

No, he doesn't compare petrol to the others :-P

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 14:51:39 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

Dedicated label remover is better than WD-40 and the orange smell is
quite nice.

https://youtu.be/b4Cu1tYpc64

No, he doesn't compare petrol to the others :-P

Thanks for that video.

The video underscores the fact that no one solvent works in all cases, so
all we really are looking for is a solvent that works most of the time.

The video also underscores the *confusion* that surrounds removing labels.

They tested against paper labels the following removers:
1. Maplin Label Remover
2. Zinsser Universal Degreaser & Cleaner
3. WD-40
4. Methylated spirits

The confusion is that the video highlights that there are two *separate*
problems, one of which I've solved long ago, but both of which they are
attacking.

1. Removing a (paper in this case) label
2. Removing the underlying goop

I only am attacking the underlying goop, since soaking removes paper labels
quite well already.

IMHO, when I'm looking for a cheap readily available household chemical to
remove the goop, I don't need to make the problem *harder* by also asking
that chemical to remove the (paper in this case) label, especially since
there is already a cheap readily available household solved (aka dihydrogen
oxide) which removes paper labels quite handily.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 14:38:22 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:49:21 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote:


I'll head off to the hardware store to see what California chemicals I can
find that are cheap and that are solvents that I can cut at a 10:1 ratio of
solvent to gasoline.

I will reiterate my recommendation, use WD-40 for label removal. If the odor is too offensive for your manly
sensibilities, buy the product in liquid form. If you do not atomize it with a spray, the odor is far less
pervasive.

With WD-40, apply a light layer to the label and just let it sit for a little while. Come back in 10 - 15
minutes and the adhesive will have dissolved and the label will slide off with virtually no work.

If you need a powerful solvent that will dissolve almost anything else, buy a can of lacquer thinner (yes, it
is available in California) LT is unbelievable in it's utility.

Use of and storage of gasoline and other highly carcinogenic chemicals mixtures inside the living area of a
residence is as inadvisable as smoking or leaving a loaded, unlocked firearm where might be accessible by a 5
year old child.
It will also REALLY **** off your insurance company - even if stored
in a sealed "listed" container.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 14:38:22 +0000, Stormin' Norman wrote:

I will reiterate my recommendation, use WD-40 for label removal.

I hear you on the miracle-in-a-can as I knew about it, and had tried it
years ago, and decided it was a myth. But I can try it again, especially if,
as you say, they supply a liquid version of this miracle in a can.

If the odor is too offensive for your manly
sensibilities, buy the product in liquid form.

I appreciate that advice since I didn't know they made a liquid form.
I have only used the spray, and found it to be substandard in every way for
"lubrication" and "protection" of metal-on-metal surfaces.

If you do not atomize it with a spray, the odor is far less
pervasive.

Thank you for that point, which I agree with you on, which is that for my
use, the miracle in a can will best be the liquid version.

With WD-40, apply a light layer to the label and just let it sit for a little while. Come back in 10 - 15
minutes and the adhesive will have dissolved and the label will slide off with virtually no work.

Interesting that you mention a "label".
I always remove the label first, generally by soaking in plain old water.
Once I have the label removed, that's where I need the solvent to remove the
goop.

If you need a powerful solvent that will dissolve almost anything else, buy a can of lacquer thinner (yes, it
is available in California) LT is unbelievable in it's utility.

I think I've tried it, but I see I don't have any on my shelves at the
moment, so, if California will allow me to buy it, I'll pick up some lacquer
thinner if it's still sold.

Use of and storage of gasoline and other highly carcinogenic chemicals mixtures inside the living area of a
residence is as inadvisable as smoking or leaving a loaded, unlocked firearm where might be accessible by a 5
year old child.

And wipe your shoes before you come in the house.
Otherwise, someone might slip on the mud.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 19:08:29 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote:

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 14:38:22 +0000, Stormin' Norman wrote:

I will reiterate my recommendation, use WD-40 for label removal.

I hear you on the miracle-in-a-can as I knew about it, and had tried it
years ago, and decided it was a myth. But I can try it again, especially if,
as you say, they supply a liquid version of this miracle in a can.

You can get a gallon of it for about $17 through Amazon. That should last you for years.


If the odor is too offensive for your manly
sensibilities, buy the product in liquid form.

I appreciate that advice since I didn't know they made a liquid form.
I have only used the spray, and found it to be substandard in every way for
"lubrication" and "protection" of metal-on-metal surfaces.

That is because it is a penetrating oil and water displacement agent. It was originally developed for
protecting the outer skin and the fuel tanks of the Atlas missile.


If you do not atomize it with a spray, the odor is far less
pervasive.

Thank you for that point, which I agree with you on, which is that for my
use, the miracle in a can will best be the liquid version.

With WD-40, apply a light layer to the label and just let it sit for a little while. Come back in 10 - 15
minutes and the adhesive will have dissolved and the label will slide off with virtually no work.

Interesting that you mention a "label".
I always remove the label first, generally by soaking in plain old water.
Once I have the label removed, that's where I need the solvent to remove the
goop.

If you need a powerful solvent that will dissolve almost anything else, buy a can of lacquer thinner (yes, it
is available in California) LT is unbelievable in it's utility.

I think I've tried it, but I see I don't have any on my shelves at the
moment, so, if California will allow me to buy it, I'll pick up some lacquer
thinner if it's still sold.

A gallon through Amazon should be less than $20. I really hate going to Home Depot. The gallons are a much
better deal than quarts.


Use of and storage of gasoline and other highly carcinogenic chemicals mixtures inside the living area of a
residence is as inadvisable as smoking or leaving a loaded, unlocked firearm where might be accessible by a 5
year old child.

And wipe your shoes before you come in the house.
Otherwise, someone might slip on the mud.

Good advice, wiping your shoes also helps keep unnecessary dirt out of the house. One of our critters is a
very sweet, personable and affectionate donkey. Every opportunity she gets to come in the house, she sneaks
in, she doesn't ever cause a problem, other than the dirt that comes in on her hooves.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 19:08:29 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon
wrote:

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 14:38:22 +0000, Stormin' Norman wrote:

I will reiterate my recommendation, use WD-40 for label removal.

I hear you on the miracle-in-a-can as I knew about it, and had tried it
years ago, and decided it was a myth. But I can try it again, especially if,
as you say, they supply a liquid version of this miracle in a can.

If the odor is too offensive for your manly
sensibilities, buy the product in liquid form.

I appreciate that advice since I didn't know they made a liquid form.
I have only used the spray, and found it to be substandard in every way for
"lubrication" and "protection" of metal-on-metal surfaces.

If you do not atomize it with a spray, the odor is far less
pervasive.

Thank you for that point, which I agree with you on, which is that for my
use, the miracle in a can will best be the liquid version.

With WD-40, apply a light layer to the label and just let it sit for a little while. Come back in 10 - 15
minutes and the adhesive will have dissolved and the label will slide off with virtually no work.

Interesting that you mention a "label".
I always remove the label first, generally by soaking in plain old water.
Once I have the label removed, that's where I need the solvent to remove the
goop.

Perhaps the "single step" method using "miracle in a can" would be the
sinpler way????

If you need a powerful solvent that will dissolve almost anything else, buy a can of lacquer thinner (yes, it
is available in California) LT is unbelievable in it's utility.

I think I've tried it, but I see I don't have any on my shelves at the
moment, so, if California will allow me to buy it, I'll pick up some lacquer
thinner if it's still sold.

Use of and storage of gasoline and other highly carcinogenic chemicals mixtures inside the living area of a
residence is as inadvisable as smoking or leaving a loaded, unlocked firearm where might be accessible by a 5
year old child.

And wipe your shoes before you come in the house.
Otherwise, someone might slip on the mud.
Turn your boots over and shake them before you put them on to be sure
there is no mouse or scorpian in your boot (or shoe)

On 11/18/2016 7:05 PM, Robert Bannon wrote:
Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?


But gasoline has all the problems that most of you will love to "teach" me,
but that's not the question (so please don't try to teach me why gasoline
vapors are flammable and why I should goo-be-gone outdoors because I know
that).

Also please don't try to teach me that there are commercial lemon-oil
solutions.



Nope, won't even call you an idiot for using gasoline in the house. For
liability reasons though, I won't tell you what can dilute it because
none are truly safe.

I bet the guys down at the firehouse know what to use. You should go
down and ask them.

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:25:35 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I bet the guys down at the firehouse know what to use. You should go
down and ask them.

I knew there would be nanny comments which add zero value.

I'm surmised you didn't nanny me on septic system comments in addition to
the fire house comment though.

StorminNormin kept to the scientific point, which was clearly what this
thread is about.

This is a thinking question for scientists; not a nanny question for
pussies.

This thread is only about what's the best readily available cheap solvent to
cut gasoline with so that the gas remains a solvent but has fewer of its
natural deleterious properties.

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:25:35 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 11/18/2016 7:05 PM, Robert Bannon wrote:
Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?


But gasoline has all the problems that most of you will love to "teach" me,
but that's not the question (so please don't try to teach me why gasoline
vapors are flammable and why I should goo-be-gone outdoors because I know
that).

Also please don't try to teach me that there are commercial lemon-oil
solutions.



Nope, won't even call you an idiot for using gasoline in the house. For
liability reasons though, I won't tell you what can dilute it because
none are truly safe.

I bet the guys down at the firehouse know what to use. You should go
down and ask them.
The only thing I know of that will "dilute" gasoline and make it
less flammable is Carbon Tet - which has serious safety issues itself
and has been illegal for years.

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 23:37:20 -0500, wrote:

The only thing I know of that will "dilute" gasoline and make it
less flammable is Carbon Tet - which has serious safety issues itself
and has been illegal for years.

This is interesting, even though carbon tetrachloride is probably difficult
to get and hence isn't a standard household chemical.

You have a good point in that the goal of dilution is to reduce the
deleterious qualities of the gasoline, which, let's face it, works just fine
as a label goop remover.

The problem with the gasoline is obvious though, so that's what I'm trying
to reduce by diluting with some other common household chemical.

I was hoping that the dilution would reduce the negative complications of
gasoline.

From the scientific standpoint (which is really what I'm after), are you
saying that a 50:50 mixture of methanol and gasoline would be *more*
flammable than a 100% mixture of either one?

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 19:08:27 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 23:37:20 -0500, wrote:

The only thing I know of that will "dilute" gasoline and make it
less flammable is Carbon Tet - which has serious safety issues itself
and has been illegal for years.

This is interesting, even though carbon tetrachloride is probably difficult
to get and hence isn't a standard household chemical.

You have a good point in that the goal of dilution is to reduce the
deleterious qualities of the gasoline, which, let's face it, works just fine
as a label goop remover.

The problem with the gasoline is obvious though, so that's what I'm trying
to reduce by diluting with some other common household chemical.

I was hoping that the dilution would reduce the negative complications of
gasoline.

From the scientific standpoint (which is really what I'm after), are you
saying that a 50:50 mixture of methanol and gasoline would be *more*
flammable than a 100% mixture of either one?
The big danger with methanol combustion is you can't see the light
blue flame in a well lighted room - or even a poorly lighted one..
Other than that it is actually inherently safer than gasoline - and
the mixture is more dangerous than straight methanol as far as fire is
concerned.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 18:29:18 -0500, wrote:

The big danger with methanol combustion is you can't see the light
blue flame in a well lighted room - or even a poorly lighted one..
Other than that it is actually inherently safer than gasoline - and
the mixture is more dangerous than straight methanol as far as fire is
concerned.

I don't see alcohol, in any form, as viable, simply because I probably can't
easily get the alcohol without copious amounts of accompanying water.

On 11/18/2016 7:05 PM, Robert Bannon wrote:
Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?

I use gasoline as a home goo-gone substitute for removing labels.
Most often I do it outside, because of the stink, but I want to keep it
inside in tiny amounts, diluted as much as possible.

I've already tried all the common home chemicals from alcohol to acetone to
lemon juice to engine degreaser to dish detergent to brake cleaner to windex
to automatic-transmission fluid and MAF cleaner, all of which work sometimes
but all of which fail often (either because they melt the container or they
don't dissolve the goo).

I've even tried common flavorings such as orange blossom extract, rose
water, pure lemon extract, coconut oil and walnut oil, which, surprisingly,
are totally useless (but they do smell the best!).

I've found, through decades of experience, that gasoline, which also fails
sometimes, works more often than any other household common chemical.

But gasoline has all the problems that most of you will love to "teach" me,
but that's not the question (so please don't try to teach me why gasoline
vapors are flammable and why I should goo-be-gone outdoors because I know
that).

Also please don't try to teach me that there are commercial lemon-oil
solutions.

I just want to dilute the gasoline and I already know that even the diluted
gasoline vapors will be flammable. We take risks sometimes when working
around the house and not being a pussy about it all the time.

So I plan to keep a small jar of gasoline properly labeled under the kitchen
sink (let's not go into the dangers of doing that, because properly diluting
it won't solve that danger for the most part).

Without being a pussy about the question, do you have any suggestion that
you think might work best to dilute the gasoline 10:1 (or even 100:1) so
that I'm using the minimum effective amount of gasoline indoors?

What can I 'cut' the gasoline with that will mix with the gas and dilute it
(maybe 10:1 or even maybe 100:1)?

Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?

You are the ****ing idiot that ALWAYS turns up at a wet bonfire arn't you.
Well if you really want to set fire to your house you can add denatured
alcohol, available in walmart but really, gasoline just stinks and I
wouldn't want it anywhere in my house. Garage is bad enough.

Removing goop/labels.

1) Try WD40
2? Try WD40 and denatured alcohol combined.
3) Dependent on what the goop is on and if its painted add a drop of
Acetone (also in Walmart) or use pure Acetone.
4) Isopropyl alcohol 90% (Walmart) shifts stuff 1-3 wont.
5) White spirit is almost as effective as gasoline, again add Acetone if
the subject wont be damaged.

Don't use gasoline, it stinks and will blow up when your fag smoking
missus walks in.

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:35:10 -0500, JC wrote:

You are the ****ing idiot that ALWAYS turns up at a wet bonfire arn't you.

This is a thinking question for scientists; not a nanny question.



Well if you really want to set fire to your house you can add denatured
alcohol, available in walmart but really, gasoline just stinks and I
wouldn't want it anywhere in my house. Garage is bad enough.

I think the methanol suggestion is probably best, but the problem is that
getting any alcohol in California is problematic.

Looking up "denatured alcohol" for Walmart this says the item is no longer
available:
Klean Strip Denatured Alcohol, 1qt, Walmart #: 001252149
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Klean-Str...l-1qt/17208795

Removing goop/labels.

1) Try WD40
2? Try WD40 and denatured alcohol combined.

I have never found WD-40 to be useful, and it stinks (to me) far worse than
does gasoline. It gives me a headache.

3) Dependent on what the goop is on and if its painted add a drop of
Acetone (also in Walmart) or use pure Acetone.

I have plenty of acetone but it doesn't work well on most of the goo (but it
works great on removing painted stuff on plastic). My kids use my shop
acetone as a fingernail polish remover and it works great for that too (but
dries their skin).

Acetone tends to melt far more stuff than did the gasoline.
As I said in the OP, I gave up on the acetone, but, I didn't think of using
it as the solution to cut the gasoline.

So I will try a small amount of 50:50 acetone to gasoline, which will be my
starter fluid.

4) Isopropyl alcohol 90% (Walmart) shifts stuff 1-3 wont.

Since rubbing alcohol didn't work in and of itself, I hadn't thought of
using it as the diluent, but it has the best chance of working.

So, I think I'll try out a 50:50 mix of rubbing alcohol and gasoline to see
how that works and then dilute further from there if it works well.

5) White spirit is almost as effective as gasoline, again add Acetone if
the subject wont be damaged.

It's problematic to get petroleum distillates in California, but they're
probably second only to the alcohol for cutting the gasoline. I will head
off to the hardware store to see what California spirits are still sold on
the shelves.

Don't use gasoline, it stinks and will blow up when your fag smoking
missus walks in.

What are you going to tell me when I tell you I actually use a chainsaw in
my back yard (without wearing leather pants!!!!!!!!!!!)?

Or that I actually climb up on a ladder or on my roof to clean the gutters
(without wearing an OSHA harness!!!!!!)?

Or that I actually light a fire inside my fireplace using actual matches and
wood tinder (without calling the Fire Department hotline ahead of time)?

Plus, you didn't even warn me about the gas going in my septic system!

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:05 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote:

Or that I actually light a fire inside my fireplace using actual matches and
wood tinder (without calling the Fire Department hotline ahead of time)?

BTW, I don't mean to chastise you unduly, as you did try to help
scientifically.

It's just that telling me the obvious stuff about gasoline isn't helpful
since we all know the obvious stuff.

Of course, if mixing gasoline with, say, naphtha causes it to become
unstable or explosive or something like that which is NOT OBVIOUS, then by
all means warn me.

But to warn me that a chain saw can cut off my finger, or that I can fall
off a ladder or winding a garage door spring is dangerous or that running
while holding sharp scissors can hurt someone, is just wasting everyone's
time stating the obvious to people who know it already.

So, I'm ok with 'real' warnings. Just not useless California nanny warnings.
Make sense?

On 11/18/2016 10:45 PM, Robert Bannon wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:05 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote:

Or that I actually light a fire inside my fireplace using actual matches and
wood tinder (without calling the Fire Department hotline ahead of time)?

BTW, I don't mean to chastise you unduly, as you did try to help
scientifically.

It's just that telling me the obvious stuff about gasoline isn't helpful
since we all know the obvious stuff.

Of course, if mixing gasoline with, say, naphtha causes it to become
unstable or explosive or something like that which is NOT OBVIOUS, then by
all means warn me.

But to warn me that a chain saw can cut off my finger, or that I can fall
off a ladder or winding a garage door spring is dangerous or that running
while holding sharp scissors can hurt someone, is just wasting everyone's
time stating the obvious to people who know it already.

So, I'm ok with 'real' warnings. Just not useless California nanny warnings.
Make sense?

Well, I'm just really glad I don't live in Califailia. I do like my
solvents.

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 23:16:28 -0500, JC wrote:

Well, I'm just really glad I don't live in Califailia. I do like my
solvents.

I am hoping that the solvent that we scientifically come up with is not only
readily available, but that it *lowers* the negative qualities of gasoline.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 03:45:42 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon
wrote:

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:05 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote:

Or that I actually light a fire inside my fireplace using actual matches and
wood tinder (without calling the Fire Department hotline ahead of time)?

BTW, I don't mean to chastise you unduly, as you did try to help
scientifically.

It's just that telling me the obvious stuff about gasoline isn't helpful
since we all know the obvious stuff.

Of course, if mixing gasoline with, say, naphtha causes it to become
unstable or explosive or something like that which is NOT OBVIOUS, then by
all means warn me.

But to warn me that a chain saw can cut off my finger, or that I can fall
off a ladder or winding a garage door spring is dangerous or that running
while holding sharp scissors can hurt someone, is just wasting everyone's
time stating the obvious to people who know it already.

So, I'm ok with 'real' warnings. Just not useless California nanny warnings.
Make sense?
Naptha won't help the flammabilty/explosive danger. Butane is even
worse. Methanol is corrosive, VERY flammable and poisonous (absorbs
through the skin too)

Dichloromethane may be an alternative but it has serious health risks
as well

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:03:06 -0500, wrote:

Naptha won't help the flammabilty/explosive danger.

Thanks for looking at the problem from a scientific standpoint.

The main issue is that gasoline is a *fantastic* readily available and cheap
(relatively) solvent for eliminating the goop under the labels (after the
label is removed by soaking in water); but gasoline (a) stinks, and (b) is
flammable.

So all we're trying to do is reduce those two deleterious qualities:
a. Lower the stink (or mask it with a better stink perhaps)
b. Lower the flammability issue (probably by lowering the quantity)

Looking at naphtha as the diluent and gasoline as the solvent, and assuming
something around a 1:10 ratio of diluent to solvent, the first thing I find
is that naphtha is, like gasoline, not a single chemical in and of itself.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_naphtha

Looking up whether naphtha is a good diluent for gasoline, people do it:
http://www.greencarcongress.com/2013...8-naphtha.html

But the results were too complex for me to glean the gist of the results in
a single skim, so I'll move on to the next suggestion for the moment.

Butane is even worse.
I don't see butane readily available either.
It might be (e.g., lighter refills), but it seems too flammable for me to
consider as the diluent.

Methanol is corrosive, VERY flammable and poisonous (absorbs
through the skin too)

The problem, I think, with *any* alcohol, is that they're gonna dilute it
with water, and water isn't what we want to mix with the gasoline, so,
unless we can find reagent grade alcohols, I think alcohol that we do find
will have water in it.

Dichloromethane may be an alternative but it has serious health risks
as well

Is that a common household chemical?

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 03:45:42 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote:

So, I'm ok with 'real' warnings. Just not useless California nanny warnings.
Make sense?

My favorite 'nanny' warning from childhood was on a package of sodium
hypochlorite pool conditioner: 'Do not mix with brake fluid'.

Who would ever get the idea to make such a mixture otherwise?

PS: Make sure you are outside if you want to try this. It would also be a
good idea to put on safety goggles as well. And be patient. When the smoke
starts, don't attempt to speed things up by adding more of anything.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:33:48 -0500, Mike Duffy wrote:

My favorite 'nanny' warning from childhood was on a package of sodium
hypochlorite pool conditioner: 'Do not mix with brake fluid'.

Who would ever get the idea to make such a mixture otherwise?

PS: Make sure you are outside if you want to try this. It would also be a
good idea to put on safety goggles as well. And be patient. When the smoke
starts, don't attempt to speed things up by adding more of anything.

Here, in California, we are so inundated with such silly nanny warnings that
we become inured to them.

It's a big business just selling the signs, for heaven's sake!
https://www.google.com/search?q=cali...rning+stickers

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:05 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:35:10 -0500, JC wrote:

You are the ****ing idiot that ALWAYS turns up at a wet bonfire arn't you.

This is a thinking question for scientists; not a nanny question.



Well if you really want to set fire to your house you can add denatured
alcohol, available in walmart but really, gasoline just stinks and I
wouldn't want it anywhere in my house. Garage is bad enough.

I think the methanol suggestion is probably best, but the problem is that
getting any alcohol in California is problematic.

Looking up "denatured alcohol" for Walmart this says the item is no longer
available:
Klean Strip Denatured Alcohol, 1qt, Walmart #: 001252149
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Klean-Str...l-1qt/17208795

Removing goop/labels.

1) Try WD40
2? Try WD40 and denatured alcohol combined.

I have never found WD-40 to be useful, and it stinks (to me) far worse than
does gasoline. It gives me a headache.

3) Dependent on what the goop is on and if its painted add a drop of
Acetone (also in Walmart) or use pure Acetone.

I have plenty of acetone but it doesn't work well on most of the goo (but it
works great on removing painted stuff on plastic). My kids use my shop
acetone as a fingernail polish remover and it works great for that too (but
dries their skin).

Acetone tends to melt far more stuff than did the gasoline.
As I said in the OP, I gave up on the acetone, but, I didn't think of using
it as the solution to cut the gasoline.

So I will try a small amount of 50:50 acetone to gasoline, which will be my
starter fluid.

4) Isopropyl alcohol 90% (Walmart) shifts stuff 1-3 wont.

Since rubbing alcohol didn't work in and of itself, I hadn't thought of
using it as the diluent, but it has the best chance of working.

Except rubbing alcohol is about 30% water (up to over 50%)

So, I think I'll try out a 50:50 mix of rubbing alcohol and gasoline to see
how that works and then dilute further from there if it works well.

5) White spirit is almost as effective as gasoline, again add Acetone if
the subject wont be damaged.

It's problematic to get petroleum distillates in California, but they're
probably second only to the alcohol for cutting the gasoline. I will head
off to the hardware store to see what California spirits are still sold on
the shelves.

Don't use gasoline, it stinks and will blow up when your fag smoking
missus walks in.

What are you going to tell me when I tell you I actually use a chainsaw in
my back yard (without wearing leather pants!!!!!!!!!!!)?

Or that I actually climb up on a ladder or on my roof to clean the gutters
(without wearing an OSHA harness!!!!!!)?

Or that I actually light a fire inside my fireplace using actual matches and
wood tinder (without calling the Fire Department hotline ahead of time)?

Plus, you didn't even warn me about the gas going in my septic system!

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:05 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon
wrote:

What are you going to tell me when I tell you I actually use a chainsaw in
my back yard (without wearing leather pants!!!!!!!!!!!)?

Or that I actually climb up on a ladder or on my roof to clean the gutters
(without wearing an OSHA harness!!!!!!)?

Or that I actually light a fire inside my fireplace using actual matches and
wood tinder (without calling the Fire Department hotline ahead of time)?

Plus, you didn't even warn me about the gas going in my septic system!



\|||/
(o o)
,----ooO--(_)-------.
| Please |
| don't feed the |
| TROLL! |
'--------------Ooo--'
|__|__|
|| ||
ooO Ooo

On 11/18/2016 08:23 PM, Robert Bannon wrote:

Acetone tends to melt far more stuff than did the gasoline.
As I said in the OP, I gave up on the acetone, but, I didn't think of using
it as the solution to cut the gasoline.

One time, not thinking what I was doing, I poured a little hardware
store acetone into a Styrofoam cup, and instantly ended up with a big
gloppy mess of acetone and melted Styrofoam on my lap.

Then I felt dumb.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:39:11 -0500, bitrex
wrote:

On 11/18/2016 08:23 PM, Robert Bannon wrote:

Acetone tends to melt far more stuff than did the gasoline.
As I said in the OP, I gave up on the acetone, but, I didn't think of using
it as the solution to cut the gasoline.

One time, not thinking what I was doing, I poured a little hardware
store acetone into a Styrofoam cup, and instantly ended up with a big
gloppy mess of acetone and melted Styrofoam on my lap.

Then I felt dumb.
Gasoline does the same thing. Might take twice as long but you still
measure it in seconds and fractions there-of.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 11:57:56 -0500, wrote:

Gasoline does the same thing. Might take twice as long but you still
measure it in seconds and fractions there-of.

Yup. Every kid has melted a huge box of stryofoam peanuts into a cup of
gasoline to make what the kids call 'napalm' (at least we did in the Vietnam
war days when we were young kids).

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:39:11 -0500, bitrex wrote:

One time, not thinking what I was doing, I poured a little hardware
store acetone into a Styrofoam cup, and instantly ended up with a big
gloppy mess of acetone and melted Styrofoam on my lap.

Every kid I know of (including me) has made what we called "napalm" simply
by melting the Styrofoam peanuts into a cup of gasoline.

We made better jellied gasoline using dish detergent, but I think it's a
pretty common experience for kids world wide to melt styrofoam into
gasoline.

All kids made pipe bombs too, which were far more dangerous when you compare
it, just as we all mixed the pool chemicals that exploded in a gush. Most of
the time we were more cautious than we needed to be, especially when playing
with the M80's under the ice.

"Robert Bannon" wrote in message
news

Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?

oil
alcohol

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:37:42 -0500, dadiOH wrote:

oil
alcohol

The two-stroke oil idea made sense that it will mix with gasoline, but it's
oily which seems to defeat the goal.

The alchol is almost certainly the best idea, but I was thinking "ethanol",
which is only available diluted with water (as vodka, for example), which is
too much water in California where even everclear is restricted in
concentration by the nanny state (and probably too expensive anyway).

But, I did not think about using isopropyl rubbing alcohol, which is cheap
and readily available at Costco.

The reason I didn't think of it is because it in and of itself didn't work
at all, but if I use it to cut the gas at 10 parts alcohol to 1 part
gasoline, it might have enough gas to still work.

I will try that and let you know.

"Robert Bannon" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:37:42 -0500, dadiOH wrote:

oil
alcohol

The two-stroke oil idea made sense that it will mix with gasoline, but
it's
oily which seems to defeat the goal.

Use detergent after.

The alchol is almost certainly the best idea, but I was thinking
"ethanol",
which is only available diluted with water (as vodka, for example), which
is
too much water in California where even everclear is restricted in
concentration by the nanny state (and probably too expensive anyway).

If you live near the border, go to Tijuana, go to a liquor store and buy
agua diente, It is pure (180 proof) ethanol. Fifty years ago it was $0.50
per liter, going to be more now.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 07:04:41 -0500, dadiOH wrote:

If you live near the border, go to Tijuana, go to a liquor store and buy
agua diente, It is pure (180 proof) ethanol. Fifty years ago it was $0.50
per liter, going to be more now.

California is a big state (which is why they get away with being whacko)
where I'm nowhere near the border. Too bad. That's a great price for 90%
alcohol and 10% water.

On 11/18/2016 7:05 PM, Robert Bannon wrote:
Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?

I use gasoline as a home goo-gone substitute for removing labels.
Most often I do it outside, because of the stink, but I want to keep it
inside in tiny amounts, diluted as much as possible.

I've already tried all the common home chemicals from alcohol to acetone to
lemon juice to engine degreaser to dish detergent to brake cleaner to windex
to automatic-transmission fluid and MAF cleaner, all of which work sometimes
but all of which fail often (either because they melt the container or they
don't dissolve the goo).

I've even tried common flavorings such as orange blossom extract, rose
water, pure lemon extract, coconut oil and walnut oil, which, surprisingly,
are totally useless (but they do smell the best!).

I've found, through decades of experience, that gasoline, which also fails
sometimes, works more often than any other household common chemical.

But gasoline has all the problems that most of you will love to "teach" me,
but that's not the question (so please don't try to teach me why gasoline
vapors are flammable and why I should goo-be-gone outdoors because I know
that).

Also please don't try to teach me that there are commercial lemon-oil
solutions.

I just want to dilute the gasoline and I already know that even the diluted
gasoline vapors will be flammable. We take risks sometimes when working
around the house and not being a pussy about it all the time.

So I plan to keep a small jar of gasoline properly labeled under the kitchen
sink (let's not go into the dangers of doing that, because properly diluting
it won't solve that danger for the most part).

Without being a pussy about the question, do you have any suggestion that
you think might work best to dilute the gasoline 10:1 (or even 100:1) so
that I'm using the minimum effective amount of gasoline indoors?

What can I 'cut' the gasoline with that will mix with the gas and dilute it
(maybe 10:1 or even maybe 100:1)?

Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline?


I have chemical suggestions but what you want to do is just plain dumb.

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:47:59 -0500, Frank wrote:

I have chemical suggestions but what you want to do is just plain dumb.

Men (real men) handle danger.

You never worked on a car engine?
Or rode a motorcycle?
Or used a chainsaw?

Men (real men) handle danger.
They just make sure they know what they're doing first.

That's why I'm asking the question in the first place.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:03 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:47:59 -0500, Frank wrote:

I have chemical suggestions but what you want to do is just plain dumb.

Men (real men) handle danger.

You never worked on a car engine?
Or rode a motorcycle?
Or used a chainsaw?

Men (real men) handle danger.
They just make sure they know what they're doing first.

That's why I'm asking the question in the first place.
But "real men" are not "totally" stupid. They mitigate danger where
it makes sense - and in your case it does. I hope you haven't fathered
any kids yet - the world doesn't need any more Bannons with yout
cheap-assed attitude. Buy a commercial goo remover that is safe
(relatively) to use - and use it outside in fresh air - because they
ALL STINK.

On 11/18/2016 11:43 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:03 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 19:47:59 -0500, Frank wrote:

I have chemical suggestions but what you want to do is just plain dumb.

Men (real men) handle danger.

You never worked on a car engine?
Or rode a motorcycle?
Or used a chainsaw?

Men (real men) handle danger.
They just make sure they know what they're doing first.

That's why I'm asking the question in the first place.
But "real men" are not "totally" stupid. They mitigate danger where
it makes sense - and in your case it does. I hope you haven't fathered
any kids yet - the world doesn't need any more Bannons with yout
cheap-assed attitude. Buy a commercial goo remover that is safe
(relatively) to use - and use it outside in fresh air - because they
ALL STINK.

+ He does not know that I am a retired chemist. I survived many fires
and explosions and release of toxic materials in the lab so I sorta know
what I am talking about. Then from the technical side, if the gasoline
is diluted the polar characteristics will change and it may not function
the same.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 08:30:51 -0500, Frank wrote:

+ He does not know that I am a retired chemist. I survived many fires
and explosions and release of toxic materials in the lab so I sorta know
what I am talking about. Then from the technical side, if the gasoline
is diluted the polar characteristics will change and it may not function
the same.

That's interesting that you're a retired chemist.
My chemistry training stopped after Organic Chemistry (Morrison and Boyd) in
college.

Water is polar.
But are you sure gasoline is polar?

There must be a good reason gasoline is the best solvent for removing label
goop, so, if you're saying the reason is its polarity, all we need to do is
find a solvent with similar polarity.

But I've never found a solvent better than gasoline for removing the
underlying goop (although no one solvent works at all times).

I'll google to see if gasoline is polar, but it may get complex because
there is no one "chemical" called "gasoline". It's a mix of alkanes,
alkenes, alkynes and aromatics (but I'll doublecheck since that's off the
cuff).