On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 12:02:48 PM UTC-8, wrote:
All,

The pool had a bunch of wiring for the old school pool pump (one speed) as well as another pump for the roof solar panels, lights timers, outlet and such. I like to clean things up so I took everything apart. The only things that I would like to keep working would be the pool pump and the outlet. The pool pump comes with a very handy timer feature so I don't need another timer, etc. Anyway, so here are my questions:

The electrical line comes with the following copper wire coatings:
1 green, 1 red, 1 white, 4 black (I can't tell if any of these is different from the others)
Here is a picture of the line: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...HlWaU55cjhVQ1E

And here is a picture of my panel: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...WM3Ty1PaTcyZUk

Question 1.
I believe that the wiring should be very simple since the terminals in the pool pump only use green/ground and two others to make up 220V. I plan on turning on the power and VERY CAREFULLY test voltage between the red cable and the black ones and go with the one that gives me closest to 220V. From the panel to this setup we are talking at least 150 ft so I want to have as good a line as possible. Why are there four black cables in the line? Do you see any issues with my approach?

Question 2.
Page 10/36 of the pool pump reads '230 VAC single phase' (see below). If you look at the panel picture isn't it true that there are two phases here that when used together give 220V? This pump was working beautifully for the past year going through all of the connections (2 very old school switches and an electrical box that was used as a timer for the pump) so it should work well if I make the connections correctly.
Pool Pump - https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/EcoStar.pdf

Question 3.
For the outlet I believe that I can use any of the remaining three black cables, the neutral/white cable and ground. The remaining black cables will be capped and well insulated with electrical tape on top.

I'm pretty sure that my approach should work but I might as well float my plans in case anyone has any suggestions. Thank you very much.

Unfortunately I did not have any luck. I actually could not get the pump going again. Is it at all possible that the pump had been running off 110/120 V for the past year? It is rated between 300-3000rpm but I only ran it between 1800 and 2200rpm.
Thanks

On Wed, 16 Nov 2016 22:45:33 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 12:02:48 PM UTC-8, wrote:
All,

The pool had a bunch of wiring for the old school pool pump (one speed) as well as another pump for the roof solar panels, lights timers, outlet and such. I like to clean things up so I took everything apart. The only things that I would like to keep working would be the pool pump and the outlet. The pool pump comes with a very handy timer feature so I don't need another timer, etc. Anyway, so here are my questions:

The electrical line comes with the following copper wire coatings:
1 green, 1 red, 1 white, 4 black (I can't tell if any of these is different from the others)
Here is a picture of the line: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...HlWaU55cjhVQ1E

And here is a picture of my panel: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...WM3Ty1PaTcyZUk

Question 1.
I believe that the wiring should be very simple since the terminals in the pool pump only use green/ground and two others to make up 220V. I plan on turning on the power and VERY CAREFULLY test voltage between the red cable and the black ones and go with the one that gives me closest to 220V. From the panel to this setup we are talking at least 150 ft so I want to have as good a line as possible. Why are there four black cables in the line? Do you see any issues with my approach?

Question 2.
Page 10/36 of the pool pump reads '230 VAC single phase' (see below). If you look at the panel picture isn't it true that there are two phases here that when used together give 220V? This pump was working beautifully for the past year going through all of the connections (2 very old school switches and an electrical box that was used as a timer for the pump) so it should work well if I make the connections correctly.
Pool Pump - https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/EcoStar.pdf

Question 3.
For the outlet I believe that I can use any of the remaining three black cables, the neutral/white cable and ground. The remaining black cables will be capped and well insulated with electrical tape on top.

I'm pretty sure that my approach should work but I might as well float my plans in case anyone has any suggestions. Thank you very much.

Unfortunately I did not have any luck. I actually could not get the pump going again. Is it at all possible that the pump had been running off 110/120 V for the past year? It is rated between 300-3000rpm but I only ran it between 1800 and 2200rpm.
Thanks

On Thursday, November 17, 2016 at 1:45:37 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 12:02:48 PM UTC-8, wrote:
All,

The pool had a bunch of wiring for the old school pool pump (one speed) as well as another pump for the roof solar panels, lights timers, outlet and such. I like to clean things up so I took everything apart. The only things that I would like to keep working would be the pool pump and the outlet.. The pool pump comes with a very handy timer feature so I don't need another timer, etc. Anyway, so here are my questions:

The electrical line comes with the following copper wire coatings:
1 green, 1 red, 1 white, 4 black (I can't tell if any of these is different from the others)
Here is a picture of the line: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...HlWaU55cjhVQ1E

And here is a picture of my panel: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...WM3Ty1PaTcyZUk

Question 1.
I believe that the wiring should be very simple since the terminals in the pool pump only use green/ground and two others to make up 220V. I plan on turning on the power and VERY CAREFULLY test voltage between the red cable and the black ones and go with the one that gives me closest to 220V. From the panel to this setup we are talking at least 150 ft so I want to have as good a line as possible. Why are there four black cables in the line? Do you see any issues with my approach?

Question 2.
Page 10/36 of the pool pump reads '230 VAC single phase' (see below). If you look at the panel picture isn't it true that there are two phases here that when used together give 220V? This pump was working beautifully for the past year going through all of the connections (2 very old school switches and an electrical box that was used as a timer for the pump) so it should work well if I make the connections correctly.
Pool Pump - https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/EcoStar.pdf

Question 3.
For the outlet I believe that I can use any of the remaining three black cables, the neutral/white cable and ground. The remaining black cables will be capped and well insulated with electrical tape on top.

I'm pretty sure that my approach should work but I might as well float my plans in case anyone has any suggestions. Thank you very much.

Unfortunately I did not have any luck. I actually could not get the pump going again. Is it at all possible that the pump had been running off 110/120 V for the past year? It is rated between 300-3000rpm but I only ran it between 1800 and 2200rpm.
Thanks

Who knows? We can't see the pump, don't know what you have. What
was hooked up to the pump? If it was a red and black, or black
and black, then it's 240V, unless someone went rogue. If it's black
and white, then it's 120V.
If the pump was single speed, like you said, IDK how it could be
running at variable speeds.

The first thing you should have done is identify the various breakers
and what they run before taking stuff apart. Then you'd know. Usually
pool pumps are 240V, but not always.