I know that question is too open ended to really answer. Each house
will behave different. Each room will behave different depending on
windows, exterior walls, etc. But I'm just looking for some sort of
estimate.

Say it's -15C outside and +20C inside at midnight. If i left the
furnace off (gas forced air) all night, what kind of temperature could
be expected at 8am? I guess a "If it drops lower than X then you may
have issues" is the kind of answer i'm looking for.

The reason i ask is because i'm an insanely over-critical person who
wants to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of this house until the
next one which i will have built properly. :-)

I'm in the middle unit of a 3 unit townhouse. So i share a wall with
each nieghbour on the sides and only my front/back walls are exposed
to the elements. However I have a 2nd story which neither of my
neighbours do, so upstairs is exposed on all four sides. Because the
vast majority of my main floor walls are shared with neighbours i
figured that my heat loss should be significantly better than any
detached house. But i have nothing to compare against. Buit new in
2001 according to ontario building code. I think that's r-34 in the
attic and only r18 in the walls. All the windows are double paned. I
can't feel any air leakage and no condensation or ice ever forms
between panes but the bedroom windows ice up like hell every night
along the bottom edge. (35% humidity inside at 19C with -15C outside).

I haven't done any tests to see how quickly the temperature drops but
i was just looking for some sort of general numbers to compare against
once i do.

any thoughts appreciated.

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 19:07:34 GMT, kevins_news
wrote:

I know that question is too open ended to really answer. Each house
will behave different. Each room will behave different depending on
windows, exterior walls, etc. But I'm just looking for some sort of
estimate.

Say it's -15C outside and +20C inside at midnight. If i left the
furnace off (gas forced air) all night, what kind of temperature could
be expected at 8am? I guess a "If it drops lower than X then you may
have issues" is the kind of answer i'm looking for.

The reason i ask is because i'm an insanely over-critical person who
wants to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of this house until the
next one which i will have built properly. :-)

I'm in the middle unit of a 3 unit townhouse. So i share a wall with
each nieghbour on the sides and only my front/back walls are exposed
to the elements. However I have a 2nd story which neither of my
neighbours do, so upstairs is exposed on all four sides. Because the
vast majority of my main floor walls are shared with neighbours i
figured that my heat loss should be significantly better than any
detached house. But i have nothing to compare against. Buit new in
2001 according to ontario building code. I think that's r-34 in the
attic and only r18 in the walls. All the windows are double paned. I
can't feel any air leakage and no condensation or ice ever forms
between panes but the bedroom windows ice up like hell every night
along the bottom edge. (35% humidity inside at 19C with -15C outside).

I haven't done any tests to see how quickly the temperature drops but
i was just looking for some sort of general numbers to compare against
once i do.

any thoughts appreciated.

One more comment. 1700 sq feet plus basement is the size.

I drop 3 degree F an hour at 15F outside, I have alot more insulation
than you 2-3x.

"kevins_news" wrote in message
...
I know that question is too open ended to really answer. Each house
will behave different. Each room will behave different depending on
windows, exterior walls, etc. But I'm just looking for some sort of
estimate.

Say it's -15C outside and +20C inside at midnight. If i left the
furnace off (gas forced air) all night, what kind of temperature could
be expected at 8am? I guess a "If it drops lower than X then you may
have issues" is the kind of answer i'm looking for.

In my house I get a drop of about 5 to 8 degrees F. Or you would end up at
15C
Ed

Well, it will drop as fast as it drops. "Should" doesn't enter in. You are
talking about very modest low temps (my god, -15C is only like +5F), and
your insulation is thoroughly adequate for that kind of cold, if indeed it
meets code, which you are assuming. I doubt you have ripped a wall open.

There are only two considerations in my opinion:

1. Don't let it get so cold in the house that you get massive condensation
on the windows
2. Don't let it get so cold that the furnace can't restore comfort in a
reasonable length of time.

And if you are waiting till you get up to turn on the furnace, that time is
probably shorter. In a well-insulated house (if yours is code, it is
well-insulated), there is very little payoff in letting the place get way
cold. A 5 degree setback day to night is plenty. You should buy yourself a
setback thermostat and learn how to run it, and let it take care of things
for you.


"kevins_news" wrote in message
...
I know that question is too open ended to really answer. Each house
will behave different. Each room will behave different depending on
windows, exterior walls, etc. But I'm just looking for some sort of
estimate.

Say it's -15C outside and +20C inside at midnight. If i left the
furnace off (gas forced air) all night, what kind of temperature could
be expected at 8am? I guess a "If it drops lower than X then you may
have issues" is the kind of answer i'm looking for.

The reason i ask is because i'm an insanely over-critical person who
wants to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of this house until the
next one which i will have built properly. :-)

I'm in the middle unit of a 3 unit townhouse. So i share a wall with
each nieghbour on the sides and only my front/back walls are exposed
to the elements. However I have a 2nd story which neither of my
neighbours do, so upstairs is exposed on all four sides. Because the
vast majority of my main floor walls are shared with neighbours i
figured that my heat loss should be significantly better than any
detached house. But i have nothing to compare against. Buit new in
2001 according to ontario building code. I think that's r-34 in the
attic and only r18 in the walls. All the windows are double paned. I
can't feel any air leakage and no condensation or ice ever forms
between panes but the bedroom windows ice up like hell every night
along the bottom edge. (35% humidity inside at 19C with -15C outside).

I haven't done any tests to see how quickly the temperature drops but
i was just looking for some sort of general numbers to compare against
once i do.

any thoughts appreciated.

kevins_news wrote in
:

I know that question is too open ended to really answer. Each house
will behave different. Each room will behave different depending on
windows, exterior walls, etc. But I'm just looking for some sort of
estimate.

Say it's -15C outside and +20C inside at midnight. If i left the
furnace off (gas forced air) all night, what kind of temperature could
be expected at 8am? I guess a "If it drops lower than X then you may
have issues" is the kind of answer i'm looking for.

The reason i ask is because i'm an insanely over-critical person who
wants to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of this house until the
next one which i will have built properly. :-)

I'm in the middle unit of a 3 unit townhouse. So i share a wall with
each nieghbour on the sides and only my front/back walls are exposed
to the elements. However I have a 2nd story which neither of my
neighbours do, so upstairs is exposed on all four sides. Because the
vast majority of my main floor walls are shared with neighbours i
figured that my heat loss should be significantly better than any
detached house. But i have nothing to compare against. Buit new in
2001 according to ontario building code. I think that's r-34 in the
attic and only r18 in the walls. All the windows are double paned. I
can't feel any air leakage and no condensation or ice ever forms
between panes but the bedroom windows ice up like hell every night
along the bottom edge. (35% humidity inside at 19C with -15C outside).

I haven't done any tests to see how quickly the temperature drops but
i was just looking for some sort of general numbers to compare against
once i do.

any thoughts appreciated.

OK. Here's my thoughts...
Fist, one needs to know the "U" factor of the entire composite of the
walls and ceilings in order to compute any heat loss. Second, wind speed
around the house, and third (in the old days anyway) crack sizes anywhere
in the house. I've seldom seen two houses that will leak heat at a given
equal rate. There's always one or two things governing the heat loss of
a building. You could actually try some night when the time is right but
to "suggest" a guideline would be impractical.
Lastly (and just a friendly jab at our wonderful Canadian neighbors whom
I dearly love and respect) heat losses and BTU calculations are actually
figured using the Farenheit scale simply because it's more accurate. 0
to 100 = 100 degrees but 32 to 212 = 180 degrees. It's more exact.
Now I'll shut my mouth but I love you folks up north! Hell, you're only
a mile from my house and I can hear your cows mooing at night!

Doug

Best way is to try it one night and chart the thermo.

--
Joseph E. Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math


"kevins_news" wrote in message
...
I know that question is too open ended to really answer. Each house
will behave different. Each room will behave different depending on
windows, exterior walls, etc. But I'm just looking for some sort of
estimate.

Say it's -15C outside and +20C inside at midnight. If i left the
furnace off (gas forced air) all night, what kind of temperature could
be expected at 8am? I guess a "If it drops lower than X then you may
have issues" is the kind of answer i'm looking for.

The reason i ask is because i'm an insanely over-critical person who
wants to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of this house until the
next one which i will have built properly. :-)

I'm in the middle unit of a 3 unit townhouse. So i share a wall with
each nieghbour on the sides and only my front/back walls are exposed
to the elements. However I have a 2nd story which neither of my
neighbours do, so upstairs is exposed on all four sides. Because the
vast majority of my main floor walls are shared with neighbours i
figured that my heat loss should be significantly better than any
detached house. But i have nothing to compare against. Buit new in
2001 according to ontario building code. I think that's r-34 in the
attic and only r18 in the walls. All the windows are double paned. I
can't feel any air leakage and no condensation or ice ever forms
between panes but the bedroom windows ice up like hell every night
along the bottom edge. (35% humidity inside at 19C with -15C outside).

I haven't done any tests to see how quickly the temperature drops but
i was just looking for some sort of general numbers to compare against
once i do.

any thoughts appreciated.

kevins_news wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 19:07:34 GMT, kevins_news
wrote:

I know that question is too open ended to really answer. Each house
will behave different. Each room will behave different depending on
windows, exterior walls, etc. But I'm just looking for some sort of
estimate.

Say it's -15C outside and +20C inside at midnight. If i left the
furnace off (gas forced air) all night, what kind of temperature could
be expected at 8am? I guess a "If it drops lower than X then you may
have issues" is the kind of answer i'm looking for.

The reason i ask is because i'm an insanely over-critical person who
wants to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of this house until the
next one which i will have built properly. :-)

I'm in the middle unit of a 3 unit townhouse. So i share a wall with
each nieghbour on the sides and only my front/back walls are exposed
to the elements. However I have a 2nd story which neither of my
neighbours do, so upstairs is exposed on all four sides. Because the
vast majority of my main floor walls are shared with neighbours i
figured that my heat loss should be significantly better than any
detached house. But i have nothing to compare against. Buit new in
2001 according to ontario building code. I think that's r-34 in the
attic and only r18 in the walls. All the windows are double paned. I
can't feel any air leakage and no condensation or ice ever forms
between panes but the bedroom windows ice up like hell every night
along the bottom edge. (35% humidity inside at 19C with -15C outside).

I haven't done any tests to see how quickly the temperature drops but
i was just looking for some sort of general numbers to compare against
once i do.

any thoughts appreciated.

One more comment. 1700 sq feet plus basement is the size.

You are right it is impossible to answer with any degree of
accuracy. But a few questions, the wall are ONLY R18?
Second, why don't you just turn the furnace off and see how
far it drops? Third, why do you care? And none of those
are smart-ass comments. I don't understand you point. Turn
off the furnance and you find out. Anything below about 60
F (? 14 C?) would be too low for efficiency in reheating, so
you just set your thermostat for 60 F for efficiency.
Personally, I don't want my house going below 65 F even to
say a little money.

Finally, even in my 1500 square foot ranch which is fully
exposed and the walls are only R-11 insulated, the temp
would not drop much below 60 F overnight with those outside
temperatures. I would suspect that your house would not
drop from 20 C to less than 14 C overnight unless you had a
real strong wind blowing.

m Ransley wrote:

I drop 3 degree F an hour at 15F outside, I have alot more insulation
than you 2-3x.


Whoa! You need some insulation. 3 deg x 8 hours is 24
degrees would result in 48 degrees F if you started at 72
F. My garage which isn't heated and starts at a maximum of
48 degrees seldom gets below 40 degrees. In fact it never
got below 38 degrees when the temp dropped to -1 degree last
month.

Well George at 1800 sq ft my gas bill was 50 last month , You do temp
drop at 15 f . I have 3x the insulation you do.

Your just going to have to try it for yourself. In my center unit
townhouse I have nobody living next door, but I can turn off my heat
even on a very cold night and it never gets below 50 degrees.
Actually, the only time I really run the heat is first thing in the
morning, so I can step out of the shower into a warm room for a few
minutes. And my house has no insulation in it. I'm sure that having
a basement helps.

"donald girod" wrote in message ...
Well, it will drop as fast as it drops. "Should" doesn't enter in. You are
talking about very modest low temps (my god, -15C is only like +5F), and
your insulation is thoroughly adequate for that kind of cold, if indeed it
meets code, which you are assuming. I doubt you have ripped a wall open.

When the house was built they provided numbers for what they were
using in the walls and ceiling. I checked up on ontario code and saw
that's what they were using. Reputable builder so i don't suspect
them of using less. And -15C was just referring to last night. A
cold snap would be consisten -25C. Still nothing like when i lived in
Winnipeg Manitoba though. Weeks of -30-35C were normal. (-22-31F)

There are only two considerations in my opinion:

1. Don't let it get so cold in the house that you get massive condensation
on the windows
2. Don't let it get so cold that the furnace can't restore comfort in a
reasonable length of time.

And if you are waiting till you get up to turn on the furnace, that time is
probably shorter. In a well-insulated house (if yours is code, it is
well-insulated), there is very little payoff in letting the place get way
cold. A 5 degree setback day to night is plenty. You should buy yourself a
setback thermostat and learn how to run it, and let it take care of things
for you.

We do have a setback thermostat. We have it go up to 66F in the
mornings, evenings, and on weekends when we are home (we like it
colder than most it seems). I set it back to 59F at night and during
the day while we're at work. But i have no idea how fast it drops and
how often the furnace turns on during the day to maintain that 59F
since i'm not home.

The reason i asked was to get some sort of guideline. Assume i do the
test and find out that at night the temperature drops from 66F to 59F
in half an hour and my furnace spends a good portion of the night on
to maintain 59. Without any outside opinions i might assume that's
completely normal. But thanks to what you all have said, I would
suspect that something was wrong.

I'll turn the thermostat off and get myself some numbers.

Kevin



"kevins_news" wrote in message
...
I know that question is too open ended to really answer. Each house
will behave different. Each room will behave different depending on
windows, exterior walls, etc. But I'm just looking for some sort of
estimate.

Say it's -15C outside and +20C inside at midnight. If i left the
furnace off (gas forced air) all night, what kind of temperature could
be expected at 8am? I guess a "If it drops lower than X then you may
have issues" is the kind of answer i'm looking for.

The reason i ask is because i'm an insanely over-critical person who
wants to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of this house until the
next one which i will have built properly. :-)

I'm in the middle unit of a 3 unit townhouse. So i share a wall with
each nieghbour on the sides and only my front/back walls are exposed
to the elements. However I have a 2nd story which neither of my
neighbours do, so upstairs is exposed on all four sides. Because the
vast majority of my main floor walls are shared with neighbours i
figured that my heat loss should be significantly better than any
detached house. But i have nothing to compare against. Buit new in
2001 according to ontario building code. I think that's r-34 in the
attic and only r18 in the walls. All the windows are double paned. I
can't feel any air leakage and no condensation or ice ever forms
between panes but the bedroom windows ice up like hell every night
along the bottom edge. (35% humidity inside at 19C with -15C outside).

I haven't done any tests to see how quickly the temperature drops but
i was just looking for some sort of general numbers to compare against
once i do.

any thoughts appreciated.

My first test ,3 degree drop at 15 f was with wind,
Last night at 20 F no wind it went down
1 F, 700 sq first floor 2 sliders , 1 7x5 tripane and 3 windows. Lot
of glass.

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
message
Anything below about 60
F (? 14 C?) would be too low for efficiency in reheating, so
you just set your thermostat for 60 F for efficiency.

I keep seeing claims like this. I've never seen any believable
documentation to back it up. I know of no reason why it should
take more energy to heat it back up than you save by turning it
down farther. (With the possible exception of a heat pump
system.)

Bob

George E. Cawthon wrote:

m Ransley wrote:

I drop 3 degree F an hour at 15F outside, I have alot more insulation
than you 2-3x.



Whoa! You need some insulation. 3 deg x 8 hours is 24
degrees would result in 48 degrees F if you started at 72
F.


Hmmm. Keep in mind that the rate of heat loss isn't going to be linear
with time. It's going to be proportional to the temperature difference
-- which itself is dropping with time.

Just to be argumentative...

Bob wrote:

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in
message
Anything below about 60
F (? 14 C?) would be too low for efficiency in reheating, so
you just set your thermostat for 60 F for efficiency.

I keep seeing claims like this. I've never seen any believable
documentation to back it up. I know of no reason why it should
take more energy to heat it back up than you save by turning it
down farther. (With the possible exception of a heat pump
system.)

Bob

Sounds logical, and I don't know for sure, just what the
utilities recommend. However, I'm not going to let my
inside temp drop to 60 degrees when it is 15 outside, it
just makes it too uncomfortable and too long a period to
reheat.

Much lower than mine, but then a direct comparison is not
possible without giving all the parameters-- running temp,
night temp, solar values, degree heating days, gas prices,
etc.

I'm confused though, you have lots more insulation than I do
and your house loses heat faster than mine?

m Ransley wrote:

Well George at 1800 sq ft my gas bill was 50 last month , You do temp
drop at 15 f . I have 3x the insulation you do.

Robert Barr wrote:

George E. Cawthon wrote:

m Ransley wrote:

I drop 3 degree F an hour at 15F outside, I have alot more insulation
than you 2-3x.



Whoa! You need some insulation. 3 deg x 8 hours is 24
degrees would result in 48 degrees F if you started at 72
F.

Hmmm. Keep in mind that the rate of heat loss isn't going to be linear
with time. It's going to be proportional to the temperature difference
-- which itself is dropping with time.

Just to be argumentative...

Right, the drop per hour will become less and less. I
assumed he meant an average of 3 degrees per hour over the
night, but 3 degree drop in the first hour or two is
possible for my house. Still there is no way my house will
drop to 48 degrees in 8 hours at an outside temp of 15
degrees. Maybe with an outside temp of 0 or -10 degrees.

wrote:

"donald girod" wrote in message ...
Well, it will drop as fast as it drops. "Should" doesn't enter in. You are
talking about very modest low temps (my god, -15C is only like +5F), and
your insulation is thoroughly adequate for that kind of cold, if indeed it
meets code, which you are assuming. I doubt you have ripped a wall open.

When the house was built they provided numbers for what they were
using in the walls and ceiling. I checked up on ontario code and saw
that's what they were using. Reputable builder so i don't suspect
them of using less. And -15C was just referring to last night. A
cold snap would be consisten -25C. Still nothing like when i lived in
Winnipeg Manitoba though. Weeks of -30-35C were normal. (-22-31F)

There are only two considerations in my opinion:

1. Don't let it get so cold in the house that you get massive condensation
on the windows
2. Don't let it get so cold that the furnace can't restore comfort in a
reasonable length of time.

And if you are waiting till you get up to turn on the furnace, that time is
probably shorter. In a well-insulated house (if yours is code, it is
well-insulated), there is very little payoff in letting the place get way
cold. A 5 degree setback day to night is plenty. You should buy yourself a
setback thermostat and learn how to run it, and let it take care of things
for you.

We do have a setback thermostat. We have it go up to 66F in the
mornings, evenings, and on weekends when we are home (we like it
colder than most it seems). I set it back to 59F at night and during
the day while we're at work. But i have no idea how fast it drops and
how often the furnace turns on during the day to maintain that 59F
since i'm not home.

The reason i asked was to get some sort of guideline. Assume i do the
test and find out that at night the temperature drops from 66F to 59F
in half an hour and my furnace spends a good portion of the night on
to maintain 59. Without any outside opinions i might assume that's
completely normal. But thanks to what you all have said, I would
suspect that something was wrong.

It wont drop that fast unless the outside is well below 0
and you have incredibly poor insulation. Many electronic
thermostats put the run time in memory. Mine is kind of
cheap, so it only shows run time for today, yesterday, and
since the thermostat was set to heat. None of that means
much though since a big unit would naturally run longer than
a small unit while providing the same amount of energy.
Mine runs about 5 hours a day set on 72 during the daytime
and on 65 for about 8 hours at night with temp highs of 35
and lows of 20. With your low thermostat settings I would
suspect your furnace runtimes would be much less.


I'll turn the thermostat off and get myself some numbers.

Kevin



"kevins_news" wrote in message
...
I know that question is too open ended to really answer. Each house
will behave different. Each room will behave different depending on
windows, exterior walls, etc. But I'm just looking for some sort of
estimate.

Say it's -15C outside and +20C inside at midnight. If i left the
furnace off (gas forced air) all night, what kind of temperature could
be expected at 8am? I guess a "If it drops lower than X then you may
have issues" is the kind of answer i'm looking for.

The reason i ask is because i'm an insanely over-critical person who
wants to squeeze every bit of efficiency out of this house until the
next one which i will have built properly. :-)

I'm in the middle unit of a 3 unit townhouse. So i share a wall with
each nieghbour on the sides and only my front/back walls are exposed
to the elements. However I have a 2nd story which neither of my
neighbours do, so upstairs is exposed on all four sides. Because the
vast majority of my main floor walls are shared with neighbours i
figured that my heat loss should be significantly better than any
detached house. But i have nothing to compare against. Buit new in
2001 according to ontario building code. I think that's r-34 in the
attic and only r18 in the walls. All the windows are double paned. I
can't feel any air leakage and no condensation or ice ever forms
between panes but the bedroom windows ice up like hell every night
along the bottom edge. (35% humidity inside at 19C with -15C outside).

I haven't done any tests to see how quickly the temperature drops but
i was just looking for some sort of general numbers to compare against
once i do.

any thoughts appreciated.

As i said It was windy on the first test only an hr test, second test no
wind a 1 hr test 1 degree drop. I have r 100 - 110 in attic , apx r 30
walls, a fully insulated basement r-14 , and r7.2 Under, concrete
floor. New windows and doors, dual - tri pane.
For 1800 sq my gas bill was 50 total utilities 1 yr with central air
600. So Id say im doing alot of things right.
Did your test run with any incandesant lights on , A 100 watt light
bulb is a 90 watt heater putting out 10 watts of light, 10 bulbs 900
watt around 3000 btu hr. Cant have a fair test that way. Was it on a
sunny day . Whatever. My redo cut my bills 75 -80 % and my temp drop
is low as my bills prove

m Ransley wrote:

As i said It was windy on the first test only an hr test, second test no
wind a 1 hr test 1 degree drop. I have r 100 - 110 in attic , apx r 30
walls, a fully insulated basement r-14 , and r7.2 Under, concrete
floor. New windows and doors, dual - tri pane.
For 1800 sq my gas bill was 50 total utilities 1 yr with central air
600. So Id say im doing alot of things right.
Did your test run with any incandesant lights on , A 100 watt light
bulb is a 90 watt heater putting out 10 watts of light, 10 bulbs 900
watt around 3000 btu hr. Cant have a fair test that way. Was it on a
sunny day . Whatever. My redo cut my bills 75 -80 % and my temp drop
is low as my bills prove

You've got insulation that is way beyond most of us. And
you confirmed what I was saying, "you have to know all the
factors to make a comparison." Sorry I missed the wind in
the first comment and it would sure account for a much more
rapid heat loss. No lights on in my house at night, but the
comment on my garage failed to note that I have a freezer
that would provide some heat. Don't know how much. We heat
a well insulated building about 8' by 8' with a 7' ceiling
(one window and door) with a 100W bulb. In most cases it
stays at 40-50 degrees with less than 12 hours of light time
down to 5-10 degrees. Below 0 we usually run a small
heater set at 45 degrees but it doesn't come on very often.

On Thu, 29 Jan 2004 02:16:45 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:



m Ransley wrote:

As i said It was windy on the first test only an hr test, second test no
wind a 1 hr test 1 degree drop. I have r 100 - 110 in attic , apx r 30
walls, a fully insulated basement r-14 , and r7.2 Under, concrete
floor. New windows and doors, dual - tri pane.
For 1800 sq my gas bill was 50 total utilities 1 yr with central air
600. So Id say im doing alot of things right.
Did your test run with any incandesant lights on , A 100 watt light
bulb is a 90 watt heater putting out 10 watts of light, 10 bulbs 900
watt around 3000 btu hr. Cant have a fair test that way. Was it on a
sunny day . Whatever. My redo cut my bills 75 -80 % and my temp drop
is low as my bills prove

You've got insulation that is way beyond most of us. And
you confirmed what I was saying, "you have to know all the
factors to make a comparison." Sorry I missed the wind in
the first comment and it would sure account for a much more
rapid heat loss. No lights on in my house at night, but the
comment on my garage failed to note that I have a freezer
that would provide some heat. Don't know how much. We heat
a well insulated building about 8' by 8' with a 7' ceiling
(one window and door) with a 100W bulb. In most cases it
stays at 40-50 degrees with less than 12 hours of light time
down to 5-10 degrees. Below 0 we usually run a small
heater set at 45 degrees but it doesn't come on very often.

I did a test the other night. Unfortunatly it got warmer outside than
when i originally asked.

Pretty consistently 20F oustide all night. Not windy when we went to
sleep but very windy in the morning. Furnace turned completely off.

Temp at midnight was about 66F in bedroom and 66F near thermostat.
Temp at 8am was 60.5 in bedroom and 61.5 near thermostat.

Kevin

At 20 you only lost 5 degrees in 8 hrs , Im loosing 1-1.5 at 20 no
wind, but i also only tested one hr. Temp wont fall at a linear rate ,
but i do have alot of glass and a fireplace that is really an
airconditioner as well as the stairway pours cold air downstairs. And I
only tested the living room. My bills are real low but I see I have
problems I havnt been able to fix. Old leaky houses can be a pain.

kevins_news wrote:

On Thu, 29 Jan 2004 02:16:45 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:



m Ransley wrote:

As i said It was windy on the first test only an hr test, second test no
wind a 1 hr test 1 degree drop. I have r 100 - 110 in attic , apx r 30
walls, a fully insulated basement r-14 , and r7.2 Under, concrete
floor. New windows and doors, dual - tri pane.
For 1800 sq my gas bill was 50 total utilities 1 yr with central air
600. So Id say im doing alot of things right.
Did your test run with any incandesant lights on , A 100 watt light
bulb is a 90 watt heater putting out 10 watts of light, 10 bulbs 900
watt around 3000 btu hr. Cant have a fair test that way. Was it on a
sunny day . Whatever. My redo cut my bills 75 -80 % and my temp drop
is low as my bills prove

You've got insulation that is way beyond most of us. And
you confirmed what I was saying, "you have to know all the
factors to make a comparison." Sorry I missed the wind in
the first comment and it would sure account for a much more
rapid heat loss. No lights on in my house at night, but the
comment on my garage failed to note that I have a freezer
that would provide some heat. Don't know how much. We heat
a well insulated building about 8' by 8' with a 7' ceiling
(one window and door) with a 100W bulb. In most cases it
stays at 40-50 degrees with less than 12 hours of light time
down to 5-10 degrees. Below 0 we usually run a small
heater set at 45 degrees but it doesn't come on very often.

I did a test the other night. Unfortunatly it got warmer outside than
when i originally asked.

Pretty consistently 20F oustide all night. Not windy when we went to
sleep but very windy in the morning. Furnace turned completely off.

Temp at midnight was about 66F in bedroom and 66F near thermostat.
Temp at 8am was 60.5 in bedroom and 61.5 near thermostat.

Kevin

Sounds like you have it under control.