I will be installing a earthquake gas valve for the first time and have a
couple of questions. FYI, LIttle Firefighter.

The main feed into my house is 1 1/4 and the line into the meter is 3/4".
So what I am planning on doing is this. There is a 3/4" nipple coming out
of the meter on the house side into a coupling and then a line which elbows
into the house. I am planning on leaving the 3/4" nipple in and putting a
bell reducer to open into a 1 1/4" line which will then elbow into the 1
1/4" feed into the house. I understand now that the feed that the valve is
on must be the same diameter as the feed into the house but I do not think
that it requires 1 1/4" into the meter itself. Any advice on this first
part would be appreciated if I am planning anything that sounds stupid.

Secondly, is there a code in California to anyones knowledge which requires
me to put a ball valve on the line just before it enters into the house? I
seem to have heard that somewhere but to my knowledge the only shutoff I
have every been familiar with is the one on the meter. Please set me
straight on this one.

Thirdly, how do I bleed the line once I have installed the meter. I
understand that this is good practice but not sure how to do it.

Fourthly, is the shutoff at the meter sufficient to be horizontal or do I
need to tweak it as far as it will go to shut off the line after the meter.
It will go horizontal and then about 22 1/2 degrees but I had heard
horizontal is a positive shutoff. Is this true?

Lastly, the bracket comes with two bolts ( three holes on the bracket) ...
instructions says that it can either be mounted to a stud or in alligator
molly's that come with it. I had always thought that going into studs was a
must but maybe I am wrong.

understand now that the feed that the valve is
on must be the same diameter as the feed into the house but I do not think
that it requires 1 1/4" into the meter itself. Any advice on this first
part would be appreciated if I am planning anything that sounds stupid.

Hi,

You're fine here. The pressure is so low and the difference in pipe size so
little it wil not affect the flow or pressure at all. Part one is good.


Secondly, is there a code in California to anyones knowledge which requires
me to put a ball valve on the line just before it enters into the house? I
seem to have heard that somewhere but to my knowledge the only shutoff I
have every been familiar with is the one on the meter. Please set me
straight on this one.

The valve on the meter is all that is supposed to be there. If you add a valve
you are legally obligated to get a permit and be a liscensed gas repairman.
Adding a valve is not a good idea becasue it is another place that would be apt
to leak if it failed.

Thirdly, how do I bleed the line once I have installed the meter. I
understand that this is good practice but not sure how to do it.

If you are going to be creating sparks or heat you should bleed the line. If
you have an air compressor just blow it in the line after opening a connection
in the furnace and the gas which is very little will flow out the stack. If not
just blow with your mouth about twenty times. Gas is lighter than air.

Fourthly, is the shutoff at the meter sufficient to be horizontal or do I
need to tweak it as far as it will go to shut off the line after the meter.
It will go horizontal and then about 22 1/2 degrees but I had heard
horizontal is a positive shutoff. Is this true?

To shut the valve off it must be perfectly perpindicular with the pipe (Make a
cross) but do not turn past a cross or it is openeing again. Run straight with
pipe to be full on.

Lastly, the bracket comes with two bolts ( three holes on the bracket) ...
instructions says that it can either be mounted to a stud or in alligator
molly's that come with it. I had always thought that going into studs was a
must but maybe I am wrong.

The Alligators are actually called toggles and they should work fine if it is
hollow behind the surface you want to mount to.

candice

understand now that the feed that the valve is
on must be the same diameter as the feed into the house but I do not think
that it requires 1 1/4" into the meter itself. Any advice on this first
part would be appreciated if I am planning anything that sounds stupid.

Hi,

You're fine here. The pressure is so low and the difference in pipe size so
little it wil not affect the flow or pressure at all. Part one is good.


Secondly, is there a code in California to anyones knowledge which requires
me to put a ball valve on the line just before it enters into the house? I
seem to have heard that somewhere but to my knowledge the only shutoff I
have every been familiar with is the one on the meter. Please set me
straight on this one.

The valve on the meter is all that is supposed to be there. If you add a valve
you are legally obligated to get a permit and be a liscensed gas repairman.
Adding a valve is not a good idea becasue it is another place that would be apt
to leak if it failed.

Thirdly, how do I bleed the line once I have installed the meter. I
understand that this is good practice but not sure how to do it.

If you are going to be creating sparks or heat you should bleed the line. If
you have an air compressor just blow it in the line after opening a connection
in the furnace and the gas which is very little will flow out the stack. If not
just blow with your mouth about twenty times. Gas is lighter than air.

Fourthly, is the shutoff at the meter sufficient to be horizontal or do I
need to tweak it as far as it will go to shut off the line after the meter.
It will go horizontal and then about 22 1/2 degrees but I had heard
horizontal is a positive shutoff. Is this true?

To shut the valve off it must be perfectly perpindicular with the pipe (Make a
cross) but do not turn past a cross or it is openeing again. Run straight with
pipe to be full on.

Lastly, the bracket comes with two bolts ( three holes on the bracket) ...
instructions says that it can either be mounted to a stud or in alligator
molly's that come with it. I had always thought that going into studs was a
must but maybe I am wrong.

The Alligators are actually called toggles and they should work fine if it is
hollow behind the surface you want to mount to.

candice