The instructions aren't real clear to me. How do I "blind" nail these 3.5"
strips that I'm mounting vertically. I tried putting the 1.5" finishing
nail through the tongue
of the wainscot, but the nail head is still visible. If I move the nail any
further out on the tongue, the wood will split. Also, I'm installing this
vertically over sheetrock, which means I'm not hitting too many studs. Will
the top and bottom trim and a few nails into sheetrock be enough to secure
it?

"Ken Aman" wrote in message
The instructions aren't real clear to me. How do I "blind" nail these
3.5"
strips that I'm mounting vertically. I tried putting the 1.5"
finishing
nail through the tongue
of the wainscot, but the nail head is still visible. If I move the
nail any
further out on the tongue, the wood will split. Also, I'm installing
this
vertically over sheetrock, which means I'm not hitting too many studs.
Will
the top and bottom trim and a few nails into sheetrock be enough to
secure
it?

Normally, instead of cutting out drywall and installing blocking between
studs, redoing your drywall etc. It's just as cost effective to cut out
your drywall 32" or however high your wainscoat is, install plywood
sheet goods the same thickness as drywall. If your consider your time
vs. material cost. Most of the times 1/2" thickness on walls. Might
want to think of renting a compressor and finish nailer at this time,
makes that wainscoating go up in a hurry, same for your baseboard/chair
rail.

"Ken Aman" wrote in message
The instructions aren't real clear to me. How do I "blind" nail these
3.5"
strips that I'm mounting vertically. I tried putting the 1.5"
finishing
nail through the tongue
of the wainscot, but the nail head is still visible. If I move the
nail any
further out on the tongue, the wood will split. Also, I'm installing
this
vertically over sheetrock, which means I'm not hitting too many studs.
Will
the top and bottom trim and a few nails into sheetrock be enough to
secure
it?

Normally, instead of cutting out drywall and installing blocking between
studs, redoing your drywall etc. It's just as cost effective to cut out
your drywall 32" or however high your wainscoat is, install plywood
sheet goods the same thickness as drywall. If your consider your time
vs. material cost. Most of the times 1/2" thickness on walls. Might
want to think of renting a compressor and finish nailer at this time,
makes that wainscoating go up in a hurry, same for your baseboard/chair
rail.

I put mine up over sheetrock with construction grade glue, no nails and painted
it and it has been up for 10 years and I have never had a problem. I was going
to do only one bedroom, but I liked the look so well, and it was so easy, I did
a bathroom and a hall at the same time. I cheated, I used the tongue and grove
panel strips that are about 1/4 inch thick and made from western cedar I
believe. The finished look is the same as real tongue and groove. Good luck,
GCS

Having just installed this over a mixture of drywall and plastered walls, I
used construction adhesive to hold the wainscot to the wall, with a
finishing nail top and bottom to keep it in place while the glue dried.

Pre-drilled the panel where it would be covered by either baseboard or chair
rail molding.

HTH

"Junior" wrote in message
...

"Ken Aman" wrote in message
The instructions aren't real clear to me. How do I "blind" nail these
3.5"
strips that I'm mounting vertically. I tried putting the 1.5"
finishing
nail through the tongue
of the wainscot, but the nail head is still visible. If I move the
nail any
further out on the tongue, the wood will split. Also, I'm installing
this
vertically over sheetrock, which means I'm not hitting too many studs.
Will
the top and bottom trim and a few nails into sheetrock be enough to
secure
it?

Normally, instead of cutting out drywall and installing blocking between
studs, redoing your drywall etc. It's just as cost effective to cut out
your drywall 32" or however high your wainscoat is, install plywood
sheet goods the same thickness as drywall. If your consider your time
vs. material cost. Most of the times 1/2" thickness on walls. Might
want to think of renting a compressor and finish nailer at this time,
makes that wainscoating go up in a hurry, same for your baseboard/chair
rail.

"Ken Aman" wrote in message
...
The instructions aren't real clear to me. How do I "blind" nail these
3.5"
strips that I'm mounting vertically. I tried putting the 1.5" finishing
nail through the tongue
of the wainscot, but the nail head is still visible. If I move the nail
any
further out on the tongue, the wood will split. Also, I'm installing this
vertically over sheetrock, which means I'm not hitting too many studs.
Will
the top and bottom trim and a few nails into sheetrock be enough to secure
it?



use construction adhesive.

got pictures to share, if you do I will respond with my valid email address
for you to send them..

thanks..


"Phil May" wrote in message ...
Having just installed this over a mixture of drywall and plastered walls,
I
used construction adhesive to hold the wainscot to the wall, with a
finishing nail top and bottom to keep it in place while the glue dried.

Pre-drilled the panel where it would be covered by either baseboard or
chair
rail molding.

HTH

"Junior" wrote in message
...

"Ken Aman" wrote in message
The instructions aren't real clear to me. How do I "blind" nail these
3.5"
strips that I'm mounting vertically. I tried putting the 1.5"
finishing
nail through the tongue
of the wainscot, but the nail head is still visible. If I move the
nail any
further out on the tongue, the wood will split. Also, I'm installing
this
vertically over sheetrock, which means I'm not hitting too many studs.
Will
the top and bottom trim and a few nails into sheetrock be enough to
secure
it?

Normally, instead of cutting out drywall and installing blocking between
studs, redoing your drywall etc. It's just as cost effective to cut out
your drywall 32" or however high your wainscoat is, install plywood
sheet goods the same thickness as drywall. If your consider your time
vs. material cost. Most of the times 1/2" thickness on walls. Might
want to think of renting a compressor and finish nailer at this time,
makes that wainscoating go up in a hurry, same for your baseboard/chair
rail.

"Phil May" wrote in message ...
Having just installed this over a mixture of drywall and plastered walls,
I
used construction adhesive to hold the wainscot to the wall, with a
finishing nail top and bottom to keep it in place while the glue dried.

Pre-drilled the panel where it would be covered by either baseboard or
chair
rail molding.

what type of wood did you use?
did you pre stain, paint etc.....

what height did you go with?

thanks

planning on doing this to my basement.

If I ever decide to remove the wainscot, will this constructiuon adhesive
come off my walls? I installed a couple pieces with just nails and it seems
like it's holding, plus the base and chair rail hold the top and bottom in
place. Has anybody installed this without adhesive?




"Punch" wrote in message
...

"Ken Aman" wrote in message
...
The instructions aren't real clear to me. How do I "blind" nail these
3.5"
strips that I'm mounting vertically. I tried putting the 1.5" finishing
nail through the tongue
of the wainscot, but the nail head is still visible. If I move the nail
any
further out on the tongue, the wood will split. Also, I'm installing
this
vertically over sheetrock, which means I'm not hitting too many studs.
Will
the top and bottom trim and a few nails into sheetrock be enough to
secure
it?



use construction adhesive.

"Ken Aman" wrote in message
...
If I ever decide to remove the wainscot, will this constructiuon adhesive
come off my walls? I installed a couple pieces with just nails and it
seems
like it's holding, plus the base and chair rail hold the top and bottom in
place. Has anybody installed this without adhesive?



moisture will warp the strips without adhesive.
nails do NOT hold up into sheetrock alone!

You have to use adhesive, otherwise it won't last. A decent nail gun will
drive nails that will be covered/disappear easily. Don't nail in the tongue
or groove---that's just asking for trouble.

Yes, it will damage the plaster or sheetrock, but ten years from now, when
your tastes change, you can make those repairs fairly easy. That's assuming
your are still living in the house...

"Ken Aman" wrote in message
...
If I ever decide to remove the wainscot, will this constructiuon adhesive
come off my walls? I installed a couple pieces with just nails and it
seems
like it's holding, plus the base and chair rail hold the top and bottom in
place. Has anybody installed this without adhesive?




"Punch" wrote in message
...

"Ken Aman" wrote in message
...
The instructions aren't real clear to me. How do I "blind" nail these
3.5"
strips that I'm mounting vertically. I tried putting the 1.5"
finishing
nail through the tongue
of the wainscot, but the nail head is still visible. If I move the
nail
any
further out on the tongue, the wood will split. Also, I'm installing
this
vertically over sheetrock, which means I'm not hitting too many studs.
Will
the top and bottom trim and a few nails into sheetrock be enough to
secure
it?



use construction adhesive.

In article ugwkb.826623$uu5.145754@sccrnsc04, said...
You have to use adhesive, otherwise it won't last. A decent nail gun will
drive nails that will be covered/disappear easily. Don't nail in the tongue
or groove---that's just asking for trouble.

Yes, it will damage the plaster or sheetrock, but ten years from now, when
your tastes change, you can make those repairs fairly easy. That's assuming
your are still living in the house...

Whenever I have done wainscoting I have nailed on the tongue to hide the
nail and it has worked like a charm. I also remove the sheetrock/plaster
below the chair rail so I can put up a plywood nailer and keep it flush to
the existing wall.