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#2
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The Shop determined from that info that the rod is blown?
No oil indicates a leak or it was drained. You have not stated that you owned it from day one or that you just bought it. The juice to the starter is what you need The soft click may be a solonoid. The on to start click IS a solonoid to the starter. The engine needs oil. Try to rotate the engine by hand. A single cylinder engine with a blown (Broken)rod will most likely spin very freely If it spins like it has compression don't believe the shop. If it spins like it doesn't have comression. then the shop may have had more info than we do here. I have to suppose that your not the owner or you would have known what you did last with the oil. It may smoke and you would have known that. "Teffy" wrote in message om... After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make economic sense to do so? It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000 new. We also have vacuum attachments for it. Thanks, Teffy (Teffy) wrote in message . com... While mowing, my riding mower died. It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old. When the ignition key is turned from off to run, I hear one soft click. The lights work in this state. If I turn the key from run to start, I hear one loud click and nothing else. The wiring diagram is shown he http://home.attbi.com/~smschueler/Gr...iagram-big.jpg The voltage (no load) across battery terminals measures 12 v. When the key is in the start position, I measure these voltages: 8.0 v across brown wire from ignition switch to solenoid S10 terminal. 7.2 v from solenoid terminals S10 to S2 (terminals with small gauge wires). 0.5 v from S2 to battery negative terminal. As far as I can tell, the parts with safety switches are all in proper position: Power Take-Off is dis-engaged, accelerator pedal is in neutral, my butt is in the seat. The connection from negative battery post to mower frame looks clean and tight, and voltage from terminal to frame bolt is zero volts. What do you think is wrong with the mower? Thanks, Teffy |
#3
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"Leroy" wrote in message news:uIRMa.2580$Ix2.1464@rwcrnsc54...
The Shop determined from that info that the rod is blown? No oil indicates a leak or it was drained. You have not stated that you owned it from day one or that you just bought it. The juice to the starter is what you need The soft click may be a solonoid. The on to start click IS a solonoid to the starter. The engine needs oil. Try to rotate the engine by hand. A single cylinder engine with a blown (Broken)rod will most likely spin very freely If it spins like it has compression don't believe the shop. If it spins like it doesn't have comression. then the shop may have had more info than we do here. I have to suppose that your not the owner or you would have known what you did last with the oil. It may smoke and you would have known that. it may have run out of oil. the rule of thumb is one ounce per cylinder per hour of operation. lawn equipment is the most abused in the world. people treat it like toasters. use until it quits and then bitch about it when it does. Chip |
#4
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![]() Teffy wrote: After it died, I checked the oil, and it was so low that it wouldn't even register on the dipstick (don't ask). The local mower repair shop owner is telling me that it has a blown rod, that no short block is available, and it will cost $1500 - $1600 to repair. Does it make economic sense to do so? It's a Gravely G-series 16hp that is 15 years old which cost $5000 new. We also have vacuum attachments for it. Thanks, Teffy ================================================== ==== You do not "Blow" a rod...you "Throw" a rod ! Now honestly IMHO a mower like your Gravely is just beginning to show some age at 15...and still should have at least 10-15 more useful years before it is ready to be replaced...depending on its condition . I replaced a 25 year old Cub Cadet about 7-8 years ago when the cost to replace a well rusted deck and replacing the 4 original BUT dry rotted tires was about 1/3 the cost of a new mower... The way I look at it is that your tractor cost 5K 15 years ago ...replacing it today would be a lot more expensive that spending 1.5K to have it repaired...and assuming that the deck, tires etc are still in good condition I would just have it repaired... Of course That OLD tractor did not have a cup holder for your beer and a new one may... lol Just my opinion... Bob Griffiths .. |
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