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Stuck Incandescent Bulb
I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether?
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Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On 08/12/2016 6:46 AM, Bob Simon wrote:
I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in anoutdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? If need be, break the glass and use pliers on the base. Water not a great choice for the lubricant altho may help, use something like WD40 or a rust remover that'll wick in the threads... --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 04:46:50 -0700 (PDT)
Bob Simon wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? Break out the bulb and shove a potato all the way in socket. should twist right out. Might shoot some wd-40 first. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 8:06:04 AM UTC-4, burfordTjustice wrote:
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 04:46:50 -0700 (PDT) Bob Simon wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? Break out the bulb and shove a potato all the way in socket. should twist right out. Might shoot some wd-40 first. The base is really soft. Break the glass (carefully) (well if we have to tell you to be careful with broken glass I guess there's a problem) and grab the soft thin metal base with needle nose pliers. I've done it a bunch of times, it always works. Sometimes you have to bend the side of the base in pretty far. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 7:46:54 AM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote:
I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? 1 - Turn off the power, at the breaker to be extra safe. 2 - Put a zip-lock or other "heavy duty" bag over the bulb and break the glass. 3 - Use a pair of pliers to bend the edge of base inwards until you have enough to grab and then twist it out. (Turning the fixture off at the switch is not the safest method unless you are 100% sure that it will kill all power to the fixture. There are situations where they can still be power at the fixture even with the switch turned off.) |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
DerbyDad03 has brought this to us :
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 7:46:54 AM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? 1 - Turn off the power, at the breaker to be extra safe. 2 - Put a zip-lock or other "heavy duty" bag over the bulb and break the glass. 3 - Use a pair of pliers to bend the edge of base inwards until you have enough to grab and then twist it out. (Turning the fixture off at the switch is not the safest method unless you are 100% sure that it will kill all power to the fixture. There are situations where they can still be power at the fixture even with the switch turned off.) I was going to suggest this, but I figured since it was stated that "I turned the power off" instead of "I turned it off" or "I turned the light off" I took that to mean at the breaker. With so many folks here so ready to jump all over somebody for stating the obvious I decided not to post. The other point I would have made had I posted then, was to bend in two opposite edges of the bulb's base and use the long-nosed pliers in the same way a spanner wrench would be used. I've had to do this with several outside fixtures due to corrosion. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 09:56:13 -0400, FromTheRafters wrote:
use the long-nosed pliers As a last resort. After breaking off the glass parts, you might save some time by just wrapping a few turns of duct tape around the end of a broom handle *sticky side out*, and then a ring sticky side in anchoring the 'outie' duct tape. This also gives you a good reach so you don't need to climb a stepladder with the pliers. Either way, follow up with sandpaper (sandy side out) duct-taped to the broom handle to clean corrosion off the contacts. I would also then duct-tape a rag to the broom handle and dampen it to clean out the grit. -- http://mduffy.x10host.com/index.htm |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 04:46:50 -0700 (PDT), Bob Simon
wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? Folks mention breaking the glass and using pliers with _all_ power off. .... an old 'trick' was to use a potato in the socket. Seriously. Wedge it in the bulb base and twist it out. What would a Cajun from NOLA do? |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 9:56:21 AM UTC-4, FromTheRafters wrote:
DerbyDad03 has brought this to us : On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 7:46:54 AM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? 1 - Turn off the power, at the breaker to be extra safe. 2 - Put a zip-lock or other "heavy duty" bag over the bulb and break the glass. 3 - Use a pair of pliers to bend the edge of base inwards until you have enough to grab and then twist it out. (Turning the fixture off at the switch is not the safest method unless you are 100% sure that it will kill all power to the fixture. There are situations where they can still be power at the fixture even with the switch turned off.) I was going to suggest this, but I figured since it was stated that "I turned the power off" instead of "I turned it off" or "I turned the light off" I took that to mean at the breaker. With so many folks here so ready to jump all over somebody for stating the obvious I decided not to post. Many years ago a neighbor asked me to change the fixture outside his front door. I asked him if the power was off and he said yes. I swapped out the fixture and told him to turn the power back on. He reached inside the door and flipped the switch. That was my fault, I should have been more specific. When it comes to electricity, or anything else that can kill someone, "stating the obvious" should always be done. If someone jumps on you for that, tell them to go pound sand. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On 08/12/2016 08:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 7:46:54 AM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? 1 - Turn off the power, at the breaker to be extra safe. 2 - Put a zip-lock or other "heavy duty" bag over the bulb and break the glass. 3 - Use a pair of pliers to bend the edge of base inwards until you have enough to grab and then twist it out. I usually use scissors (NOT to cut anything, but sideways like pliers). [snip] -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.us/ "The world holds two classes of men -- intelligent men without religion, and religious men without intelligence." -- Abu'l-Ala-Al-Ma'arri (973-1057; Syrian poet) |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
In article ,
says... Many years ago a neighbor asked me to change the fixture outside his front door. I asked him if the power was off and he said yes. I swapped out the fixture and told him to turn the power back on. He reached inside the door and flipped the switch. That was my fault, I should have been more specific. When it comes to electricity, or anything else that can kill someone, "stating the obvious" should always be done. If someone jumps on you for that, tell them to go pound sand. Never trust anyone when it comes to the power. I have one of the 'wireless' touch testers and check for power, turn it off and check again. I use either it or some other type of tester to make sure there is no power on anything I touch. If possiable put some kind of lock device on the switch/breaker. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 10:37:14 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote: In article , says... I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? Get some penetrating oil in the spray can. Shoot it where the bulb screws in. I use Koil, but it may be hard to find locally. You may try some PB Blaster or any other penetrating type of oil. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus Several times I've resorted to breaking off the globe and grabbing the shell with a needle nose pliers, twisting it to nake the shell contract and come loose. The crappy aluminum ones in aluminum sockets can pretty well weld themselves in. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 08:44:33 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 04:46:50 -0700 (PDT), Bob Simon wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? Folks mention breaking the glass and using pliers with _all_ power off. ... an old 'trick' was to use a potato in the socket. Seriously. Wedge it in the bulb base and twist it out. What would a Cajun from NOLA do? Use a 30-06 |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 09:26:36 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 9:56:21 AM UTC-4, FromTheRafters wrote: DerbyDad03 has brought this to us : On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 7:46:54 AM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? 1 - Turn off the power, at the breaker to be extra safe. 2 - Put a zip-lock or other "heavy duty" bag over the bulb and break the glass. 3 - Use a pair of pliers to bend the edge of base inwards until you have enough to grab and then twist it out. (Turning the fixture off at the switch is not the safest method unless you are 100% sure that it will kill all power to the fixture. There are situations where they can still be power at the fixture even with the switch turned off.) I was going to suggest this, but I figured since it was stated that "I turned the power off" instead of "I turned it off" or "I turned the light off" I took that to mean at the breaker. With so many folks here so ready to jump all over somebody for stating the obvious I decided not to post. Many years ago a neighbor asked me to change the fixture outside his front door. I asked him if the power was off and he said yes. I swapped out the fixture and told him to turn the power back on. He reached inside the door and flipped the switch. That was my fault, I should have been more specific. When it comes to electricity, or anything else that can kill someone, "stating the obvious" should always be done. If someone jumps on you for that, tell them to go pound sand. Unless you have personally disconnected the power and verified it is off and LOCKED off, assume it is live and treat it accordingly. After hearing about an electrician pulling a meter to change a panel, only to have a carpenter on the job re-install the meter so he could use a saw, my dad locked removed meters in his truck. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 3:06:29 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 09:26:36 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 9:56:21 AM UTC-4, FromTheRafters wrote: DerbyDad03 has brought this to us : On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 7:46:54 AM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? 1 - Turn off the power, at the breaker to be extra safe. 2 - Put a zip-lock or other "heavy duty" bag over the bulb and break the glass. 3 - Use a pair of pliers to bend the edge of base inwards until you have enough to grab and then twist it out. (Turning the fixture off at the switch is not the safest method unless you are 100% sure that it will kill all power to the fixture. There are situations where they can still be power at the fixture even with the switch turned off.) I was going to suggest this, but I figured since it was stated that "I turned the power off" instead of "I turned it off" or "I turned the light off" I took that to mean at the breaker. With so many folks here so ready to jump all over somebody for stating the obvious I decided not to post. Many years ago a neighbor asked me to change the fixture outside his front door. I asked him if the power was off and he said yes. I swapped out the fixture and told him to turn the power back on. He reached inside the door and flipped the switch. That was my fault, I should have been more specific. When it comes to electricity, or anything else that can kill someone, "stating the obvious" should always be done. If someone jumps on you for that, tell them to go pound sand. Unless you have personally disconnected the power and verified it is off and LOCKED off, assume it is live and treat it accordingly. After hearing about an electrician pulling a meter to change a panel, only to have a carpenter on the job re-install the meter so he could use a saw, my dad locked removed meters in his truck. Thanks to all for comments and advice. I went to HD and bought a small can of WD40 with the little red straw to direct the stream exactly where I want it. Sprayed all up inside the base, waited 20 minutes, bulb wouldn't budge, repeated, and now I can rock the bulb socket a lot more but it still won't twist. I especially like the idea of pinching the base of the open socket toward the center with needle nose. This should create a way to exert a lot more twisting force on the stuck base. I took out the Leviton push button dimmer switch and found that it won't close. Maybe the old bulbs were ok to start with but now I want to be able to replace them normally. I put wire nuts on the live hot and neutral leads in the switch box that operates the lights so the socket must be dead now and I'll get my wife to help me find the breaker before installing the new switch. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
In article ,
says... When it comes to electricity, or anything else that can kill someone, "stating the obvious" should always be done. If someone jumps on you for that, tell them to go pound sand. Unless you have personally disconnected the power and verified it is off and LOCKED off, assume it is live and treat it accordingly. After hearing about an electrician pulling a meter to change a panel, only to have a carpenter on the job re-install the meter so he could use a saw, my dad locked removed meters in his truck. Electrician friend was wiring some at a church. He had pulled the meter. For some reason a power company man came by and saw the meter out. He put it back in. Good thing the friend only got a mild shock before he checked and found the meter had been installed. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 4:43:42 PM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote:
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 3:06:29 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 09:26:36 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 9:56:21 AM UTC-4, FromTheRafters wrote: DerbyDad03 has brought this to us : On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 7:46:54 AM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote: I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outdoor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the socket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altogether? 1 - Turn off the power, at the breaker to be extra safe. 2 - Put a zip-lock or other "heavy duty" bag over the bulb and break the glass. 3 - Use a pair of pliers to bend the edge of base inwards until you have enough to grab and then twist it out. (Turning the fixture off at the switch is not the safest method unless you are 100% sure that it will kill all power to the fixture. There are situations where they can still be power at the fixture even with the switch turned off.) I was going to suggest this, but I figured since it was stated that "I turned the power off" instead of "I turned it off" or "I turned the light off" I took that to mean at the breaker. With so many folks here so ready to jump all over somebody for stating the obvious I decided not to post. Many years ago a neighbor asked me to change the fixture outside his front door. I asked him if the power was off and he said yes. I swapped out the fixture and told him to turn the power back on. He reached inside the door and flipped the switch. That was my fault, I should have been more specific. When it comes to electricity, or anything else that can kill someone, "stating the obvious" should always be done. If someone jumps on you for that, tell them to go pound sand. Unless you have personally disconnected the power and verified it is off and LOCKED off, assume it is live and treat it accordingly. After hearing about an electrician pulling a meter to change a panel, only to have a carpenter on the job re-install the meter so he could use a saw, my dad locked removed meters in his truck. Thanks to all for comments and advice. I went to HD and bought a small can of WD40 with the little red straw to direct the stream exactly where I want it. Sprayed all up inside the base, waited 20 minutes, bulb wouldn't budge, repeated, and now I can rock the bulb socket a lot more but it still won't twist. I especially like the idea of pinching the base of the open socket toward the center with needle nose. This should create a way to exert a lot more twisting force on the stuck base. I took out the Leviton push button dimmer switch and found that it won't close. Maybe the old bulbs were ok to start with but now I want to be able to replace them normally. I put wire nuts on the live hot and neutral leads in the switch box that operates the lights so the socket must be dead now and I'll get my wife to help me find the breaker before installing the new switch. Good God No! Do not enlist your wife to help you find the breaker. Hire a teenager, rent a day-worker, call your brother, better yet call a complete stranger...anybody but your wife. It can only end in disaster. The mapping of circuits in a house has the same documented 'relationship casualty rate' as wallpapering. Husband: (at breaker box, yelling through the duct work) "Is it off?" Wife: (at far end of house) "What?" Husband: "I said, IS IT OFF?" Wife: "I meant, Is *WHAT* off?" Husband: "What? Did you say "It's not off"?" Wife: "NO!" Husband: "No, it's not off" or "No, you didn't say it's not off?" Wife: "ARRRRGGGHHHH I hate this!" Husband: "What?" |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
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Stuck Incandescent Bulb
Bob Simon
Fri, 12 Aug 2016 20:43:38 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: Thanks to all for comments and advice. I went to HD and bought a small can of WD40 with the little red straw to direct the stream exactly where I want it. Sprayed all up inside the base, waited 20 minutes, bulb wouldn't budge, repeated, and now I can rock the bulb socket a lot more but it still won't twist. I especially like the idea of pinching the base of the open socket toward the center with needle nose. This should create a way to exert a lot more twisting force on the stuck base. Hmm...I think at this point, if it were me, I'd just proceed to replace the socket. I suspect you're going to find that it's severely corroded if you do manage to free the base of the bulb. A socket in this condition would only cost you money in premature lightbulb deaths. -- MID: Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a zip file but then not be able to unzip it so I can watch it. That seems VERY clever! http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=145716711400 |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 16:46:48 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote: Electrician friend was wiring some at a church. He had pulled the meter. For some reason a power company man came by and saw the meter out. He put it back in. Good thing the friend only got a mild shock before he checked and found the meter had been installed. The guy from the power company was sent by GOD! He wanted to reap another electrician, so he could control more lightning...... |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failure. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from the bulb.
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Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 11:52:56 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failure. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from the bulb. Because you put more force on the base when screwing it in. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On 8/17/2016 8:10 AM, TimR wrote:
On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 11:52:56 PM UTC-4, wrote: I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failure. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from the bulb. Because you put more force on the base when screwing it in. Please explain how a tad more force on the base makes the tungsten element burn out faster. Not that I doubt you but I don't see the correlation. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 9:30:34 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/17/2016 8:10 AM, TimR wrote: On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 11:52:56 PM UTC-4, wrote: I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failure. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from the bulb. Because you put more force on the base when screwing it in. Please explain how a tad more force on the base makes the tungsten element burn out faster. Not that I doubt you but I don't see the correlation. The connection of the aluminum base to the glass is marginal. Any extra force twisting it deforms it enough to leak air in which fries the element eventually. Even a little bit is bad. I have no evidence for this. It's what I've been told, and it may or may not be true. There does seem to be some experience with bulbs burning out faster when people screw them in tighter, hence the recommendation to screw them in until they just light, then only an additional 1/8th turn. That's for incandescents, CFLs or LEDs might need a different torque. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 10:57:29 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 9:30:34 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/17/2016 8:10 AM, TimR wrote: On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 11:52:56 PM UTC-4, wrote: I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failure. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from the bulb. Because you put more force on the base when screwing it in. Please explain how a tad more force on the base makes the tungsten element burn out faster. Not that I doubt you but I don't see the correlation. The connection of the aluminum base to the glass is marginal. Any extra force twisting it deforms it enough to leak air in which fries the element eventually. Even a little bit is bad. I have no evidence for this. It's what I've been told, and it may or may not be true. There does seem to be some experience with bulbs burning out faster when people screw them in tighter, hence the recommendation to screw them in until they just light, then only an additional 1/8th turn. That's for incandescents, CFLs or LEDs might need a different torque. Speaking of light fixtures, incandescents and LEDs... I have an old clip-on gooseneck fixture and decided you use it in the shop to get some direct light on my miter saw. I installed a 100 W incandescent and aimed it right where I wanted the light. Even though the fixture was rated for 100W, I could feel the heat radiating from it and found the housing too hot to touch. I decided to use a Cree 100W equivalent to eliminate the heat issues. Now the fixture won't stay aimed because the gooseneck can't support the weight of the Cree bulb. I can't win. ;-) |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
In article ,
says... Please explain how a tad more force on the base makes the tungsten element burn out faster. Not that I doubt you but I don't see the correlation. The connection of the aluminum base to the glass is marginal. Any extra force twisting it deforms it enough to leak air in which fries the element eventually. Even a little bit is bad. I have no evidence for this. It's what I've been told, and it may or may not be true. There does seem to be some experience with bulbs burning out faster when people screw them in tighter, hence the recommendation to screw them in until they just light, then only an additional 1/8th turn. That's for incandescents, CFLs or LEDs might need a different torque. The alumminum base does not seal any vacuum in the glass. The glass is totally sealed except where the wires come out of the glass. You can take the base off and throw it away and connect to the wires and it would not burn out any faster. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 5:57:26 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says... Please explain how a tad more force on the base makes the tungsten element burn out faster. Not that I doubt you but I don't see the correlation. The connection of the aluminum base to the glass is marginal. Any extra force twisting it deforms it enough to leak air in which fries the element eventually. Even a little bit is bad. I have no evidence for this. It's what I've been told, and it may or may not be true. There does seem to be some experience with bulbs burning out faster when people screw them in tighter, hence the recommendation to screw them in until they just light, then only an additional 1/8th turn. That's for incandescents, CFLs or LEDs might need a different torque. The alumminum base does not seal any vacuum in the glass. The glass is totally sealed except where the wires come out of the glass. You can take the base off and throw it away and connect to the wires and it would not burn out any faster. Huh. Never thought of that, but it makes sense. Then, I dunno, maybe you just shouldn't screw a bulb in too hard because it will get stuck. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
"TimR" wrote in message ...
On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 5:57:26 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote: In article , says... Please explain how a tad more force on the base makes the tungsten element burn out faster. Not that I doubt you but I don't see the correlation. The connection of the aluminum base to the glass is marginal. Any extra force twisting it deforms it enough to leak air in which fries the element eventually. Even a little bit is bad. I have no evidence for this. It's what I've been told, and it may or may not be true. There does seem to be some experience with bulbs burning out faster when people screw them in tighter, hence the recommendation to screw them in until they just light, then only an additional 1/8th turn. That's for incandescents, CFLs or LEDs might need a different torque. The alumminum base does not seal any vacuum in the glass. The glass is totally sealed except where the wires come out of the glass. You can take the base off and throw it away and connect to the wires and it would not burn out any faster. - Huh. Never thought of that, but it makes sense. Then, I dunno, maybe you just shouldn't screw a bulb in too hard because it will get stuck. I started checking this awhile back when buying them, thinking that the bulb might twist and cause the leads to touch and spark. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
Wed, 17 Aug 2016 03:52:52 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failure. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from the bulb. The corrosion can cause a poor connection for the bulb. This can result in arcing, excessive resistance, and additional heat to build at the base of the bulb where semi fragile solder points exist just inside the bulbs base. Heat them up enough, the connections release. Bulb lights no more. Did I mention the socket could be arcing and causing excessive resistance which is turning into excessive heat? It's not only going to heat the bulb screwed into it, it's going to pass that heat along the wires connecting it to your house's power; heating them a bit in the process too. Depending on the level of heat being produced, this could become an issue for those wires and/or something else inside your wall. It's also passing the additional heat from the bottom of the base to the bulb; heating very small solder points just inside the base (they connect the filament wires). it's using very little solder and won't take much effort to heat it enough to where it releases the fine wires going to it. Once it does, you'll have one of two things happening: A short circuit inside the bulbs base, OR, a disconnection without the short circuit going with it. Either way, bulb lights no more. If the fixture is a half moon hanging from your ceiling, you're creating additional heat that has no realistic place to go, it's eventually going to eat the insulation off the wires feeding your light; when it does, you might see some black smoke plume out from underneath the fixture next time you try to turn it on. Your breaker should also be tripping at this point, if it can. The half moon fixture is creating more than enough heat under good conditions to break down the insulation on the wires servicing it, you don't want to add to that by running worn out, seriously corroded sockets. You're making the power supply work a little harder to push the volts to the light. you're making additional heat as you do this. Heat to a point is okay, beyond that point, it's not okay anymore. The OP has already blasted it with wd40 and it only loosened another part of the fixture. That socket's in poor condition. I wouldn't advise using it. I'd replace it at this point, as I wrote to the original poster. Corrosion mixed with electricity causes higher resistance, more heat, less usable voltage. It's a no win. -- MID: Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a zip file but then not be able to unzip it so I can watch it. That seems VERY clever! http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=145716711400 |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 1:35:34 AM UTC-4, Diesel wrote:
Wed, 17 Aug 2016 03:52:52 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failure. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from the bulb. The corrosion can cause a poor connection for the bulb. This can result in arcing, excessive resistance, and additional heat to build at the base of the bulb where semi fragile solder points exist just inside the bulbs base. Heat them up enough, the connections release. Bulb lights no more. I gotta throw the BS flag on this. I've never seen an example of a bulb arcing in the socket and I don't think anybody else has either. Bulbs most commonly blow when first turned on, when the filament is cold and you get the maximum current through the weakest point. You often hear the pop. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 8:27:59 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 1:35:34 AM UTC-4, Diesel wrote: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 03:52:52 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failure. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from the bulb. The corrosion can cause a poor connection for the bulb. This can result in arcing, excessive resistance, and additional heat to build at the base of the bulb where semi fragile solder points exist just inside the bulbs base. Heat them up enough, the connections release. Bulb lights no more. I gotta throw the BS flag on this. I've never seen an example of a bulb arcing in the socket and I don't think anybody else has either. How would you *see* the arcing between the bulb base and the socket? Do you check every socket after a bulb has blown with such minute scrutiny that you can say that the arcing did not occur with 100% confidence? I am *not* saying that the arcing occurs. I am simply saying that your statement "I've never seen an example" does not mean that Diesel's description is BS. Bulbs most commonly blow when first turned on, when the filament is cold and you get the maximum current through the weakest point. You often hear the pop. "Commonly" does not mean 100% of the time. You are not wrong in what you say, but once again it does not disprove what Diesel's says in the specific "corroded socket" situation. Tires "commonly" go flat because of an object has pierced the material that keep the air in, but that doesn't disprove the statement that "tires go flat when there is a bad seal between the bead and rim." |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
There can be arcing, that is why some of the new GFCI units have arc detection built in. Arc detection is mandatory for some circuits, as far as I have heard about the latest version of the National Electric Code.
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Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 12:34:48 PM UTC-4, wrote:
There can be arcing, that is why some of the new GFCI units have arc detection built in. Arc detection is mandatory for some circuits, as far as I have heard about the latest version of the National Electric Code. Not on lighting circuits. Where are you going to get an arc in a light bulb base? There is too much metal to metal contact on the threads, it's just not going to happen. It would have to be completely corroded all the way around and then have one gap. It defies common sense. But that's where the corrosion or gunk or whatever it is that makes the bulb stick in the socket is. I could see a possible arc between tip of the bulb and bottom contact when screwing the bulb in hot. Sometimes you'll get a blink when doing that slowly. But if your bulb were doing that in use, you'd see it going on and off. One thing that definitely happens when you screw a bulb in too hard is you flatten that bottom tab out. That bulb may work but the next one often doesn't. You have to take a popsicle stick or something similar and bend it back out. When a bulb blows there is an arc at the break in the filament. An arc has a negative resistance curve but there's a built in fuse or it would always trip the breaker. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
TimR
Fri, 19 Aug 2016 12:27:52 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 1:35:34 AM UTC-4, Diesel wrote: Wed, 17 Aug 2016 03:52:52 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failure. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from the bulb. The corrosion can cause a poor connection for the bulb. This can result in arcing, excessive resistance, and additional heat to build at the base of the bulb where semi fragile solder points exist just inside the bulbs base. Heat them up enough, the connections release. Bulb lights no more. I gotta throw the BS flag on this. Your experience concerning the subject is? My post is based on years of first hand experience with it, that's why I asked what yours is. When you're doing electrical work, especially troubleshooting, you run into all kinds of interesting things. I've never seen an example of a bulb arcing in the socket and I don't think anybody else has either. I see. How many bulbs/fixtures would you say you've serviced? How many bulbs have you actually examined to see what might have burned them up? You've never experienced a cheap fixture (or a really old one) that has a tendency of burning bulbs out prematurely due to shoddy wiring and/or a generally bad design? You've never observed corroded connections causing arcing and premature failures? How much outside wiring experience would you say you had? -- MID: Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a zip file but then not be able to unzip it so I can watch it. That seems VERY clever! http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=145716711400 |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
TimR
I gotta throw the BS flag on this. LOL!! Thanks for that! I needed a good laugh after a long day at the salt mine. I will definitely put this line to good use. |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 5:56:59 PM UTC-4, Diesel wrote:
TimR Fri, 19 Aug 2016 12:27:52 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: You made the bold claim, with zero evidence. Now that I've questioned it, you're attacking me. That IS the way the internet works. But it's not the way intelligent people support their position. Where is your evidence for your claims in that very very long post of yours? |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 9:25:18 PM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 5:56:59 PM UTC-4, Diesel wrote: TimR Fri, 19 Aug 2016 12:27:52 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: You made the bold claim, with zero evidence. Now that I've questioned it, you're attacking me. You didn't "question it". You said it was BS. You launched the first salvo. That IS the way the internet works. But it's not the way intelligent people support their position. "I never seen it and I don't think anybody else has either." How much intelligence did it take to put that proclamation in writing? Where is your evidence for your claims in that very very long post of yours? |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
TimR
Sat, 20 Aug 2016 01:25:14 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 5:56:59 PM UTC-4, Diesel wrote: TimR Fri, 19 Aug 2016 12:27:52 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote: You made the bold claim, with zero evidence. I didn't think urls supporting what I thought was common knowledge amongst some home owners and electricians alike was necessary. If you insist though. (You could easily find this on duckduckgo or google) http://www.ehow.com/how_6327421_remo...ht-socket.html They don't go into intimate details discussing the problems you can run into, aside from the bulb getting stuck!, but, you can spend a little more time on google if you'd like and find articles that do discuss the heat buildup/premature death of bulbs as a result of being run in corroded sockets. Bad connections create excesssive heat when used. Excessive heat over time causes damage. Leading upto premature bulb failure. Now that I've questioned it, you're attacking me. Your idea of questioning something differs from mine. :) I was asking some questions, but, certainly not attacking you while doing so. Any particular reason you neglected to answer any of them? Where is your evidence for your claims in that very very long post of yours? I don't recall the post being all that long... 58 lines first post, 52 second post... The OPs is most likely badly corroded... the bulb seems to really be stuck inside it. Unwilling to budge according to his last post. the fixture itself internally is willing to move a bit, but the bulb still isn't. the socket is done man. replace it. Depending on the age of the fixture itself, I'd consider replacing the entire thing rather than focusing on the socket. It's upto the OP though. The base (not the tip) if wired properly will be the neutral line. If it's badly corroded, excessive heat will be generated when running the bulb. This can lead to premature bulb death as I originally stated. Anywhere you have current flowing with a bad connection is going to make excessive heat. A little probably won't do much harm. over time, it'll get worse if something isn't done about it and the little will turn into enough to cause problems. If you require more 'proof' consult with a licensed electrician and/or use a search engine. I do apologize in advance for assuming this was common knowledge. That was my bad. -- MID: Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a zip file but then not be able to unzip it so I can watch it. That seems VERY clever! http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=145716711400 |
Stuck Incandescent Bulb
The OPs is most likely badly corroded... the bulb seems to really be
stuck inside it. Unwilling to budge according to his last post. the fixture itself internally is willing to move a bit, but the bulb still isn't. the socket is done man. replace it. Depending on the age of the fixture itself, I'd consider replacing the entire thing rather than focusing on the socket. It's upto the OP though. This is OP. Parts of the original bulb base appeared to be welded to the socket. In trying to free it, I tore loose strips and chunks of the base but the rest remained in the socket. Went to HD and bought two hanging exterior lamps for under $40 each and installed them last week. The new lamps look nice but wife wishes the balcony lamps matched the ones on the front porch. I pleaded "function over aesthetics", which is almost a running joke between us after 30 years of marriage. (And yes DD03, she did help me find the breaker.) |
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