(Ive tried to upload this message several times so if any others appear, please respond to this thread and Ill delete the others.)

Im going to buy a house next month and the building inspections were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a workshop and music practice area. Theres no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably dont have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. Im considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?

The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?

The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduced operating costs compared to a window unit?

Any other thoughts on this project?

On 6/24/2016 4:53 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
(Ive tried to upload this message several times so if any others appear, please respond to this thread and Ill delete the others.)

Im going to buy a house next month and the building inspections were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a workshop and music practice area. Theres no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably dont have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. Im considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?

The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?

The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduced operating costs compared to a window unit?

Any other thoughts on this project?


I've tried to reply to your message several times. Please let me know if
this comes through.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 7:17:02 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/24/2016 4:53 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
(Ive tried to upload this message several times so if any others appear, please respond to this thread and Ill delete the others..)

Im going to buy a house next month and the building inspections were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a workshop and music practice area. Theres no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably dont have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. Im considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?

The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?

The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduced operating costs compared to a window unit?

Any other thoughts on this project?


I've tried to reply to your message several times. Please let me know if
this comes through.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

I got your three replies. Thanks for your recommendation to insulate. There is a big door next to the alley for cars plus a regular-size door for people on the house side. Since we're not going to use the garage for cars, I think we'll rarely open the big door.

I don't know how many amps go to the garage. One or more 15A circuits from the main panel go to another box. From there the wires go via buried conduit to the garage. If I need more power, I presume the additional wires can be pulled through the existing conduit.

All my old messages finally made it. Some more may still arrive later. It's odd that it took 24 hours for the first one to show up.

On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 8:53:23 PM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote:
On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 7:17:02 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/24/2016 4:53 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
(Ive tried to upload this message several times so if any others appear, please respond to this thread and Ill delete the others.)

Im going to buy a house next month and the building inspections were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a workshop and music practice area. Theres no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably dont have any either.. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. Im considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?

The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?

The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduced operating costs compared to a window unit?

Any other thoughts on this project?


I've tried to reply to your message several times. Please let me know if
this comes through.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

I got your three replies. Thanks for your recommendation to insulate. There is a big door next to the alley for cars plus a regular-size door for people on the house side. Since we're not going to use the garage for cars, I think we'll rarely open the big door.

I don't know how many amps go to the garage. One or more 15A circuits from the main panel go to another box. From there the wires go via buried conduit to the garage. If I need more power, I presume the additional wires can be pulled through the existing conduit.

All my old messages finally made it. Some more may still arrive later. It's odd that it took 24 hours for the first one to show up.

Ok, let's work backward. 4400 ft3. = 22x20x10 K, now I can picture it.
Its one big room. If there is a window available, window unit would be
my choice. You can get a 8K BTU one for $150. I'd put insulation in
the ceiling, forget about the walls until you have some bills, it may
not be worth it. Next step up would be a minisplit, but they cost a
lot more. For $150, what do you have to lose?

On 6/24/2016 9:01 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Ok, let's work backward. 4400 ft3. = 22x20x10 K, now I can picture it.
Its one big room. If there is a window available, window unit would be
my choice. You can get a 8K BTU one for $150. I'd put insulation in
the ceiling, forget about the walls until you have some bills, it may
not be worth it. Next step up would be a minisplit, but they cost a
lot more. For $150, what do you have to lose?


Agree, but I'd go bigger on the AC
http://www.wikihow.com/Sample/Cooling-Capacity-Chart

Do you need 220V? Depends on what you plan to do and what equipment you
have in the workshop.

On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 9:44:33 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/24/2016 9:01 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Ok, let's work backward. 4400 ft3. = 22x20x10 K, now I can picture it.
Its one big room. If there is a window available, window unit would be
my choice. You can get a 8K BTU one for $150. I'd put insulation in
the ceiling, forget about the walls until you have some bills, it may
not be worth it. Next step up would be a minisplit, but they cost a
lot more. For $150, what do you have to lose?


Agree, but I'd go bigger on the AC
http://www.wikihow.com/Sample/Cooling-Capacity-Chart

Do you need 220V? Depends on what you plan to do and what equipment you
have in the workshop.

just buy a goodman furnace withAC

they work excellent, are very affordable.

On 6/24/2016 9:52 PM, bob haller wrote:
On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 9:44:33 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Do you need 220V? Depends on what you plan to do and what equipment you
have in the workshop.

just buy a goodman furnace withAC

they work excellent, are very affordable.


Sure, just get a $3,000 system instead of a
$150 window unit. Very affordable.

How big a furnace does he need in New Orleans
when 80% of the year is AC. Would 100,000 BTU
be sized about right?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Fri, 24 Jun 2016 18:52:56 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 9:44:33 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/24/2016 9:01 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Ok, let's work backward. 4400 ft3. = 22x20x10 K, now I can picture it.
Its one big room. If there is a window available, window unit would be
my choice. You can get a 8K BTU one for $150. I'd put insulation in
the ceiling, forget about the walls until you have some bills, it may
not be worth it. Next step up would be a minisplit, but they cost a
lot more. For $150, what do you have to lose?


Agree, but I'd go bigger on the AC
http://www.wikihow.com/Sample/Cooling-Capacity-Chart

Do you need 220V? Depends on what you plan to do and what equipment you
have in the workshop.

just buy a goodman furnace withAC

they work excellent, are very affordable.


Why have a furnace in a garage ln New Orleans???

On Fri, 24 Jun 2016 22:01:56 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 6/24/2016 9:52 PM, bob haller wrote:
On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 9:44:33 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Do you need 220V? Depends on what you plan to do and what equipment you
have in the workshop.

just buy a goodman furnace withAC

they work excellent, are very affordable.


Sure, just get a $3,000 system instead of a
$150 window unit. Very affordable.

How big a furnace does he need in New Orleans
when 80% of the year is AC. Would 100,000 BTU
be sized about right?
Mabee - just to get enough A/C capacity

On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 8:01:26 PM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 8:53:23 PM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote:
On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 7:17:02 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/24/2016 4:53 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
(Ive tried to upload this message several times so if any others appear, please respond to this thread and Ill delete the others.)

Im going to buy a house next month and the building inspections were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a workshop and music practice area. Theres no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably dont have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. Im considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?

The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?

The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduced operating costs compared to a window unit?

Any other thoughts on this project?


I've tried to reply to your message several times. Please let me know if
this comes through.

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

I got your three replies. Thanks for your recommendation to insulate. There is a big door next to the alley for cars plus a regular-size door for people on the house side. Since we're not going to use the garage for cars, I think we'll rarely open the big door.

I don't know how many amps go to the garage. One or more 15A circuits from the main panel go to another box. From there the wires go via buried conduit to the garage. If I need more power, I presume the additional wires can be pulled through the existing conduit.

All my old messages finally made it. Some more may still arrive later. It's odd that it took 24 hours for the first one to show up.

Ok, let's work backward. 4400 ft3. = 22x20x10 K, now I can picture it..
Its one big room. If there is a window available, window unit would be
my choice. You can get a 8K BTU one for $150. I'd put insulation in
the ceiling, forget about the walls until you have some bills, it may
not be worth it. Next step up would be a minisplit, but they cost a
lot more. For $150, what do you have to lose?

Actually, it's an 8' ceiling but you have the right idea. There are two windows so, yes, a window unit could work.

On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 8:44:33 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/24/2016 9:01 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Ok, let's work backward. 4400 ft3. = 22x20x10 K, now I can picture it.
Its one big room. If there is a window available, window unit would be
my choice. You can get a 8K BTU one for $150. I'd put insulation in
the ceiling, forget about the walls until you have some bills, it may
not be worth it. Next step up would be a minisplit, but they cost a
lot more. For $150, what do you have to lose?


Agree, but I'd go bigger on the AC
http://www.wikihow.com/Sample/Cooling-Capacity-Chart

Do you need 220V? Depends on what you plan to do and what equipment you
have in the workshop.

That chart was very helpful. Now I know that I should be looking at 12,000-14,000 BTU window units.
Thanks!

On 6/24/2016 6:44 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/24/2016 9:01 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Ok, let's work backward. 4400 ft3. = 22x20x10 K, now I can picture it.
Its one big room. If there is a window available, window unit would be
my choice. You can get a 8K BTU one for $150. I'd put insulation in
the ceiling, forget about the walls until you have some bills, it may
not be worth it. Next step up would be a minisplit, but they cost a
lot more. For $150, what do you have to lose?


Agree, but I'd go bigger on the AC
http://www.wikihow.com/Sample/Cooling-Capacity-Chart

Do you need 220V? Depends on what you plan to do and what equipment you
have in the workshop.



I'd be hesitant to make any conclusions until you know what the
assumptions are behind the chart. Local climate? Room Insulation? How
well the room is sealed, weatherstripped?

Also, do you have the correct vapor barrier to prevent condensation
problems?

On 6/24/2016 3:53 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
(Ive tried to upload this message several times so if any others appear, please respond to this thread and Ill delete the others.)

Im going to buy a house next month and the building inspections were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a workshop and music practice area. Theres no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably dont have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. Im considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?

The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?

The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduced operating costs compared to a window unit?

Any other thoughts on this project?


As far as AC goes, I can honestly recommend portable standing AC's that
roll up to a window on wheels. I LOVE the 2 I have. They're quiet, and
they're easy to take care of, and do great keeping the room cool.

--
Maggie

On Fri, 24 Jun 2016 22:46:48 -0500, Muggles
wrote:

On 6/24/2016 3:53 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
(I’ve tried to upload this message several times so if any others appear, please respond to this thread and I’ll delete the others.)

I’m going to buy a house next month and the building inspections were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a workshop and music practice area. There’s no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably don’t have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?

The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?

The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduced operating costs compared to a window unit?

Any other thoughts on this project?


As far as AC goes, I can honestly recommend portable standing AC's that
roll up to a window on wheels. I LOVE the 2 I have. They're quiet, and
they're easy to take care of, and do great keeping the room cool.
I have not had very good luck trying to cool a computer room with
them..

On 6/24/2016 10:39 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jun 2016 18:52:56 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

just buy a goodman furnace withAC

they work excellent, are very affordable.


Why have a furnace in a garage ln New Orleans???


Because a $3,000 installed system with heat is
cheaper than a $150 window AC?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 6/24/2016 10:40 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
Ok, let's work backward. 4400 ft3. = 22x20x10 K, now I can picture it.
Its one big room. If there is a window available, window unit would be
my choice. You can get a 8K BTU one for $150. I'd put insulation in
the ceiling, forget about the walls until you have some bills, it may
not be worth it. Next step up would be a minisplit, but they cost a
lot more. For $150, what do you have to lose?

Actually, it's an 8' ceiling but you have the right idea. There are two windows so, yes, a window unit could work.


Would be good idea to see how much electricity you
have. Real shame if your AC max out the power feed,
and then you can't run power tools or lights at the
same time.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 6/24/2016 10:44 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
On Friday, June 24, 2016 at 8:44:33 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Agree, but I'd go bigger on the AC
http://www.wikihow.com/Sample/Cooling-Capacity-Chart

Do you need 220V? Depends on what you plan to do and what equipment you
have in the workshop.

That chart was very helpful. Now I know that I should be looking at 12,000-14,000 BTU window units.
Thanks!


Based on being a garage, size, and humid Nawlins,
bigger is good. Some of those window units can
be run on 120 VAC, 15 amps.

Worth noting, the AC should remove a lot of
water from the air. Do you have some way of
handling the condensate?
--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 6/24/2016 8:53 PM, Bob Simon wrote:

I got your three replies. Thanks for your
recommendation to insulate. There is a big
door next to the alley for cars plus a regular-
size door for people on the house side. Since
we're not going to use the garage for cars, I
think we'll rarely open the big door.

I don't know how many amps go to the garage.
One or more 15A circuits from the main panel go
to another box. From there the wires go via
buried conduit to the garage. If I need more
power, I presume the additional wires can be
pulled through the existing conduit.

All my old messages finally made it. Some more
may still arrive later. It's odd that it took 24
hours for the first one to show up.


It is very possible the garage was wired with
the need for lights, and not much else. It is
very possible you have one circuit. You might
need to turn off the window AC while running
power tools. From the sounds of it, you may
need to put up some kind of partition, use half
or two thirds of the garage for storage, and
only AC part of the garage.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 6/24/2016 11:42 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jun 2016 22:46:48 -0500, Muggles
wrote:

On 6/24/2016 3:53 PM, Bob Simon wrote:
(I’ve tried to upload this message several times so if any others appear, please respond to this thread and I’ll delete the others.)

I’m going to buy a house next month and the building inspections were yesterday. There's a separate garage that I want to make into a workshop and music practice area. There’s no insulation in the garage attic so the guy said the walls probably don’t have any either. He said it would be an easy matter to blow foam in the attic but holes would have to be cut in the walls to insulate them. I’m considering doing both. Do you agree that I should? Do you have any idea what this would typically cost?

The inside of the garage is 4400 cu feet. If it's sunny and 95 degrees outside, how many BTUs of cooling are needed to make it comfortable inside the garage in a reasonable amount of time?

The garage has power but not 220V at this time. Will I need that?

The cooling season here in New Orleans is around 9 months. Over 20 years, will the extra cost of a compressor and air handler pay for itself in reduced operating costs compared to a window unit?

Any other thoughts on this project?


As far as AC goes, I can honestly recommend portable standing AC's that
roll up to a window on wheels. I LOVE the 2 I have. They're quiet, and
they're easy to take care of, and do great keeping the room cool.
I have not had very good luck trying to cool a computer room with
them..


Maybe I just got lucky with the 2 that I bought, but so far I've only
had to hook one up in the living room area and it's keeping things cool.

--
Maggie