I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
to make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items
that inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
give me an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is
definitely nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended
for multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?
Or, modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just
have a metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer
them to different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles
despite how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping
spares on hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only
to discover that it has dried out)

On Mon, 04 Apr 2016 10:57:21 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
to make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items
that inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
give me an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is
definitely nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended
for multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?
Or, modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just
have a metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer
them to different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles
despite how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping
spares on hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only
to discover that it has dried out)
Put saran wrap over the bottle before putting on the lid
or
store the bottle upside-down
or
place a few drops od reducer on top of the paint before closing the
lid. Do not shake, stir or invert. The reducer/thinner will keep the
paint from being contacted by air/moisture in the bottle.

On 4/4/2016 1:57 PM, Don Y wrote:
I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
to make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items
that inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
give me an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is
definitely nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended
for multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?
Or, modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just
have a metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer
them to different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles
despite how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping
spares on hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only
to discover that it has dried out)

They are in bottles with metal caps and should not dry out when closed
but solvents are very volatile. I see from them that they do recommend
stuff for thinning:

http://www.testors.com/pages/help-an...stions/?page=2

Nail polish remover may be a cheap solvent to use as would be acetone.

On 4/4/2016 12:23 PM, Frank wrote:
On 4/4/2016 1:57 PM, Don Y wrote:
I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models) for
odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something to
make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items that
inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space, give me
an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is definitely
nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended for
multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed? Or,
modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just have a
metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer them to
different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles despite
how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping spares on
hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only to discover
that it has dried out)

They are in bottles with metal caps and should not dry out when closed but
solvents are very volatile.

I think the problem lies in the metalized foil piece of cardboard that
fits inside the cap that is intended to act as a "rubber washer" to
seal the imperfections between the metal cap and glass bottle "rim".
As it has very limited flexibility, it is probably not intended to see many
"use cycles": open it, paint, close it. Repeat once or twice (but not
dozens of times).

Perhaps I should try fitting a piece of rubber into the lid, instead.

I see from them that they do recommend stuff for thinning:

http://www.testors.com/pages/help-an...stions/?page=2

Nail polish remover may be a cheap solvent to use as would be acetone.

I've got a bottle of their thinner (comes with each "set" of paints)
that I use to clean brush after use, etc.

I've no idea of the age of the current set of paints. The red bottle sees
far more use than any of the others. And, it is still "essentially full".
As I said, I'm just using these for marking so I waste more paint *in*
the brush than I ever actually apply. This leads to lots of open/close
cycles but very little paint *usage*.

E.g., last night, I used it to highlight the embossed "paper goes here,
not there!" icons on two of my scanners (because I can't see the raised,
same-color plastic molded into the top of the scanner's plastic case UNDER
the lid when trying to load a sheet of paper). A single "drop" of paint
would have been much MORE than I needed to highlight the icons on BOTH
scanners.

[Unlike watercolors, I don't think pouring thinner into *dried* paint
is going to rejuvenate it]

On 04/04/2016 12:57 PM, Don Y wrote:
I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
....

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
....
But, they eventually dry out...
....
Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?

....

I keep something like these instead...

http://www.staples.com/Sharpie-Paint-Oil-Based-Marker-Fine-Assorted-5-Pack/product_764858

Not as many colors available, but no brushes to clean, etc. They will
dry out eventually as well, too. No idea what relative cost might be;
haven't price the model paints since "like forever" when was a kid...

OTOH, there are some half-pint cans of paint been around the house here
that some must date to the 50s that when open are still apparently as
good as new...then again, they haven't been opened generally for 40 of
those years so no idea if would've sealed/remained ok if used more than
the one time when were initially bought.

Of course, if you were to instill a "preventative maintenace" program an
replenish the solvent periodically (and you're right simple acetone will
work fine; it's probably cheaper by the pint or quart at the Ace than
buying nail polish remover, though, altho again there's a volume issue
of it'll also evaporate in the can over time) you could probably extend
the usable bottle time almost indefinitely at the cost of another chore.

--

--

On 4/4/2016 12:14 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 04 Apr 2016 10:57:21 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
to make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items
that inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
give me an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is
definitely nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended
for multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?
Or, modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just
have a metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer
them to different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles
despite how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping
spares on hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only
to discover that it has dried out)
Put saran wrap over the bottle before putting on the lid

Unless your Saran Wrap is heavier duty than ours, it just tears.
Do you recall how *small* the bottles of Testor's are?

or
store the bottle upside-down

That *might* work. But, i suspect paint getting on the underside of
the metalized cardboard "washer" is what has caused the problem in the
first place -- i.e., interfering with how well the cap/washer "seats".

or
place a few drops od reducer on top of the paint before closing the
lid. Do not shake, stir or invert. The reducer/thinner will keep the
paint from being contacted by air/moisture in the bottle.

I'd think a better solution would just be some sort of container
that seals better!

SWMBO gets her paints in "toothpaste tubes" (sort of). I'll check
to see if I can purchase enamels in a similar form (though they may be
too fluid for that sort of dispensing).

On 4/4/2016 3:27 PM, dpb wrote:
On 04/04/2016 12:57 PM, Don Y wrote:
I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
....

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
....
But, they eventually dry out...
....
Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?

....

I keep something like these instead...

http://www.staples.com/Sharpie-Paint-Oil-Based-Marker-Fine-Assorted-5-Pack/product_764858

I use those to label (for example) the "USB icon" on the A-side of USB cables.
With a steady hand, you can almost trace the shape.

But, the paints are more universally applicable.

E.g., I have painted the "mounting brackets" of my differential SCSI HBA
PCI cards red so I can easily recognize "this one is differential while
this other one -- that looks identical to it -- is single-ended".

Not as many colors available, but no brushes to clean, etc. They will dry out
eventually as well, too. No idea what relative cost might be; haven't price
the model paints since "like forever" when was a kid...

OTOH, there are some half-pint cans of paint been around the house here that
some must date to the 50s that when open are still apparently as good as
new...then again, they haven't been opened generally for 40 of those years so
no idea if would've sealed/remained ok if used more than the one time when were
initially bought.

Yeah, I think the opening and closing is what is eating my lunch.
I.e., the other colors in the kit are good as new. It's the ones
that see the most "access" that seem to dry out quickest.

Of course, if you were to instill a "preventative maintenace" program an
replenish the solvent periodically (and you're right simple acetone will work
fine; it's probably cheaper by the pint or quart at the Ace than buying nail
polish remover, though, altho again there's a volume issue of it'll also
evaporate in the can over time) you could probably extend the usable bottle
time almost indefinitely at the cost of another chore.

We keep MEK, acetone, spirits, xylene, etc. on hand as we use them often
enough. So, adding some to the paint each time it is used is possible.

*But*, how do you decide "how much"? Weigh the bottle each time you seal
it and then add solvent to it BEFORE each use to restore that same weight?

On Mon, 04 Apr 2016 15:28:05 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 4/4/2016 12:14 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 04 Apr 2016 10:57:21 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
to make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items
that inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
give me an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is
definitely nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended
for multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?
Or, modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just
have a metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer
them to different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles
despite how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping
spares on hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only
to discover that it has dried out)
Put saran wrap over the bottle before putting on the lid

Unless your Saran Wrap is heavier duty than ours, it just tears.
Do you recall how *small* the bottles of Testor's are?

Yes I do, and I've done it in the past - with both the testors bottles
and the Humbrol cans.
or
store the bottle upside-down

That *might* work. But, i suspect paint getting on the underside of
the metalized cardboard "washer" is what has caused the problem in the
first place -- i.e., interfering with how well the cap/washer "seats".

or
place a few drops od reducer on top of the paint before closing the
lid. Do not shake, stir or invert. The reducer/thinner will keep the
paint from being contacted by air/moisture in the bottle.

I'd think a better solution would just be some sort of container
that seals better!

SWMBO gets her paints in "toothpaste tubes" (sort of). I'll check
to see if I can purchase enamels in a similar form (though they may be
too fluid for that sort of dispensing).
Buy Humbrol. Snap on can lids.

On Mon, 4 Apr 2016 15:23:49 -0400, Frank "frank wrote:

On 4/4/2016 1:57 PM, Don Y wrote:
I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
to make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items
that inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
give me an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is
definitely nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended
for multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?
Or, modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just
have a metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer
them to different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles
despite how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping
spares on hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only
to discover that it has dried out)

They are in bottles with metal caps and should not dry out when closed
but solvents are very volatile. I see from them that they do recommend
stuff for thinning:

http://www.testors.com/pages/help-an...stions/?page=2

Nail polish remover may be a cheap solvent to use as would be acetone.
Not for thinning enamel!!!!
Mineral spirits is best - turps will also work.ANY enamel paint
thinner.

On Mon, 04 Apr 2016 14:04:32 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 4/4/2016 12:23 PM, Frank wrote:
On 4/4/2016 1:57 PM, Don Y wrote:
I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models) for
odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something to
make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items that
inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space, give me
an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is definitely
nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended for
multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed? Or,
modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just have a
metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer them to
different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles despite
how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping spares on
hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only to discover
that it has dried out)

They are in bottles with metal caps and should not dry out when closed but
solvents are very volatile.

I think the problem lies in the metalized foil piece of cardboard that
fits inside the cap that is intended to act as a "rubber washer" to
seal the imperfections between the metal cap and glass bottle "rim".
As it has very limited flexibility, it is probably not intended to see many
"use cycles": open it, paint, close it. Repeat once or twice (but not
dozens of times).

Perhaps I should try fitting a piece of rubber into the lid, instead.

I see from them that they do recommend stuff for thinning:

http://www.testors.com/pages/help-an...stions/?page=2

Nail polish remover may be a cheap solvent to use as would be acetone.

I've got a bottle of their thinner (comes with each "set" of paints)
that I use to clean brush after use, etc.

I've no idea of the age of the current set of paints. The red bottle sees
far more use than any of the others. And, it is still "essentially full".
As I said, I'm just using these for marking so I waste more paint *in*
the brush than I ever actually apply. This leads to lots of open/close
cycles but very little paint *usage*.

E.g., last night, I used it to highlight the embossed "paper goes here,
not there!" icons on two of my scanners (because I can't see the raised,
same-color plastic molded into the top of the scanner's plastic case UNDER
the lid when trying to load a sheet of paper). A single "drop" of paint
would have been much MORE than I needed to highlight the icons on BOTH
scanners.

[Unlike watercolors, I don't think pouring thinner into *dried* paint
is going to rejuvenate it]
Putting a film (of thinners) over the un-thickened paint keeps it
from thickening though.

On Mon, 04 Apr 2016 15:35:20 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 4/4/2016 3:27 PM, dpb wrote:
On 04/04/2016 12:57 PM, Don Y wrote:
I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
....

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
....
But, they eventually dry out...
....
Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?

....

I keep something like these instead...

http://www.staples.com/Sharpie-Paint-Oil-Based-Marker-Fine-Assorted-5-Pack/product_764858

I use those to label (for example) the "USB icon" on the A-side of USB cables.
With a steady hand, you can almost trace the shape.

But, the paints are more universally applicable.

E.g., I have painted the "mounting brackets" of my differential SCSI HBA
PCI cards red so I can easily recognize "this one is differential while
this other one -- that looks identical to it -- is single-ended".

Not as many colors available, but no brushes to clean, etc. They will dry out
eventually as well, too. No idea what relative cost might be; haven't price
the model paints since "like forever" when was a kid...

OTOH, there are some half-pint cans of paint been around the house here that
some must date to the 50s that when open are still apparently as good as
new...then again, they haven't been opened generally for 40 of those years so
no idea if would've sealed/remained ok if used more than the one time when were
initially bought.

Yeah, I think the opening and closing is what is eating my lunch.
I.e., the other colors in the kit are good as new. It's the ones
that see the most "access" that seem to dry out quickest.

Of course, if you were to instill a "preventative maintenace" program an
replenish the solvent periodically (and you're right simple acetone will work
fine; it's probably cheaper by the pint or quart at the Ace than buying nail
polish remover, though, altho again there's a volume issue of it'll also
evaporate in the can over time) you could probably extend the usable bottle
time almost indefinitely at the cost of another chore.

We keep MEK, acetone, spirits, xylene, etc. on hand as we use them often
enough. So, adding some to the paint each time it is used is possible.
Spirits or possibly xylene are much better than MEK or acetone for
these enamels - or use ronson lighter fluid. (naptha)

*But*, how do you decide "how much"? Weigh the bottle each time you seal
it and then add solvent to it BEFORE each use to restore that same weight?

On 4/4/2016 8:01 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 4 Apr 2016 15:23:49 -0400, Frank "frank wrote:

On 4/4/2016 1:57 PM, Don Y wrote:
I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
to make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items
that inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
give me an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is
definitely nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended
for multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?
Or, modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just
have a metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer
them to different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles
despite how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping
spares on hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only
to discover that it has dried out)

They are in bottles with metal caps and should not dry out when closed
but solvents are very volatile. I see from them that they do recommend
stuff for thinning:

http://www.testors.com/pages/help-an...stions/?page=2

Nail polish remover may be a cheap solvent to use as would be acetone.
Not for thinning enamel!!!!
Mineral spirits is best - turps will also work.ANY enamel paint
thinner.


Depends on the base resin. If acrylic then nail polish remover or
acetone would be better than mineral spirits.

On 4/4/2016 3:27 PM, dpb wrote:
....
We keep MEK, acetone, spirits, xylene, etc. on hand as we use them often
enough. So, adding some to the paint each time it is used is possible.

*But*, how do you decide "how much"? ...

It isn't when you use it that's as critical as the time in between usage
that may be quite some time; altho you'd certainly at least extend life
some.

It's not critical, thin 'til it's just a tad thinner than the
consistency you'd like to use...but again, it it's two years before you
use that particular one again and you've not checked and "topped it off"
it may be too late.

--

On 4/4/2016 5:11 PM, Frank wrote:
On 4/4/2016 8:01 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 4 Apr 2016 15:23:49 -0400, Frank "frank wrote:

On 4/4/2016 1:57 PM, Don Y wrote:

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended
for multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?
Or, modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just
have a metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer
them to different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles
despite how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping
spares on hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only
to discover that it has dried out)

They are in bottles with metal caps and should not dry out when closed
but solvents are very volatile. I see from them that they do recommend
stuff for thinning:

http://www.testors.com/pages/help-an...stions/?page=2

Nail polish remover may be a cheap solvent to use as would be acetone.
Not for thinning enamel!!!!
Mineral spirits is best - turps will also work.ANY enamel paint
thinner.

Depends on the base resin. If acrylic then nail polish remover or acetone
would be better than mineral spirits.

Testor's thinner smells neither like acetone nor spirits. It claims to
contain:
n-Propoxy Propanol
and
Xylol

As I've, to date, only used it to clean the surplus paint off the dinky little
brush at the end of each use, I haven't even exhausted the 1/4 oz bottle that
came with the paint set -- though I have a gigantic 1.75 oz (!!) bottle that I
will use to refill that little bottle when it's exhausted.

[And, I note the large bottle has a large conformal "plug" that fills the
opening instead of just relying on the "metal cap" for a seal!]

On 4/4/2016 6:45 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/4/2016 3:27 PM, dpb wrote:
....
We keep MEK, acetone, spirits, xylene, etc. on hand as we use them often
enough. So, adding some to the paint each time it is used is possible.

*But*, how do you decide "how much"? ...

It isn't when you use it that's as critical as the time in between usage that
may be quite some time; altho you'd certainly at least extend life some.

It's not critical, thin 'til it's just a tad thinner than the consistency you'd
like to use...but again, it it's two years before you use that particular one
again and you've not checked and "topped it off" it may be too late.

Exactly. Hence I'd rather have a *seal* that is more reliable and not NEED
to worry about it drying out. It can easily be a year between uses -- or,
every day for a week! It tends to be driven by new kit or new uses for
old kit.

E.g., I've had the scanners for several years. But, only recently moved them
to a different location that is not as well lit -- nor readily accessible
(all I need to be able to do is slip a piece of paper onto the glass and
KNOW how it should be oriented so location need not be "prime"!)

My solvent of choice is Naptha. It seems to work very well.

On Mon, 4 Apr 2016 20:11:04 -0400, Frank "frank wrote:

On 4/4/2016 8:01 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 4 Apr 2016 15:23:49 -0400, Frank "frank wrote:

On 4/4/2016 1:57 PM, Don Y wrote:
I keep an assortment of "Testor's" enamels on hand (think: models)
for odd "marking" jobs -- times when I want to apply color to something
to make it more readily visible (e.g., "legends" molded into items
that inherently have no real CONTRAST to make them noticeable).

The tiny bottles are great because they don't take up much space,
give me an assortment of colors, dry quickly, etc. And, the aroma is
definitely nostalgic!

But, they eventually dry out -- it appears the seals aren't intended
for multiple openings and closings.

Can I buy similar paints in containers that are more readily resealed?
Or, modify the containers so that they seal better (they seem to just
have a metalized cardboard "seal" tucked up into the cap)? Or, transfer
them to different sorts of containers?

Or, just resolve myself to replacing the individual paint bottles
despite how much (hardened!) paint remains within? (this means keeping
spares on hand as you never know when you'll go to use a bottle only
to discover that it has dried out)

They are in bottles with metal caps and should not dry out when closed
but solvents are very volatile. I see from them that they do recommend
stuff for thinning:

http://www.testors.com/pages/help-an...stions/?page=2

Nail polish remover may be a cheap solvent to use as would be acetone.
Not for thinning enamel!!!!
Mineral spirits is best - turps will also work.ANY enamel paint
thinner.


Depends on the base resin. If acrylic then nail polish remover or
acetone would be better than mineral spirits.
Testors enamel isn't acrylic unless they've changed in the last
couple of years. I've had the sruff go all stringy and useless using
the wrong thinner. Acetone and MEK work for cleaning, but I wouldn't
use it for thinning - particularly on styrene. Even laquer on styrene
makes a terrible job. (it eats into the surface and wrinkles)

Don Y wrote:

Exactly. Hence I'd rather have a *seal* that is more reliable and
not NEED to worry about it drying out. It can easily be a year
between uses -- or, every day for a week! It tends to be driven by
new kit or new uses for old kit.


Throw a couple of turns of black electrical tape around the lid after you
righten it .
--
Snag