On 1/15/2016 1:22 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 1/15/2016 5:54 AM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 19:11:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, January 14, 2016 at 10:02:51 PM UTC-5, Wild Bill wrote:
On 01/14/2016 09:13 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I use Root-X twice a year. Haven't had a blockage since I started
doing that about
4 years ago. I've had the line scoped and I've seen the problem.
Roots are entering
the top of the pipe at a junction between 2 sections.

$5K to have it lined, not sure of the cost to have it replaced or
$75 a year to introduce
2 lbs of Root-X through the clean out in the spring and fall. I
consider it just another
maintenance item.

rootx.com


I had a tree root problem, cheapest solution was to remove the tree.
Roots stopped growing, problem solved.

It's not my tree but I wouldn't remove it even if it was. It's not
always about the money or
even the inconvenience.

The cheapest solution is not always the best.

I had a nice big red maple cut down - right over my sewer line -
before it gave me problems. It wasn't cheap. It was the best
solution.
Also saved me from climbing on the roof yearly to clean the gutters.

I've felled all of the original trees on the property (last one we
had to hire-out as a mistake would have done serious damage to any
of the four homes it could fall on!) -- largely to eliminate the
maintenance issues and "risks" (we have lots of microbursts in the
neighborhood that easily topple 70 ft, 36" dia pines!).

I'd hoped that the last tree (pine) would result in eliminating the
pine needles that accumulate on the (flat) roof. But, apparently,
those that are still accumulating there are fom neighbor's trees
behind us. I guess the wind carries them pretty far when they fall
off from those heights!

Neighbors grumbled when I took the deciduous trees down:
"Oh, the leaves were so pretty in the Fall...!"
(WTF? They were just YELLOW! Not the vibrant reds and oranges
from Maples, etc.)
"Yeah, well I never saw any of you guys helping to rake them
and *bag* them..."

I always recycle all the fallen leaves into mulch.


I've still got plenty of nice trees.

We've settled on citrus (because they produce edible fruit) and
"Mimosa" trees -- smallish (perhaps 15 ft tall/wide) with delightful
flowers that the hummingbirds ado
http://spiritrisingherbs.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/mimosa-flower.jpg

I love Mimosa trees. Had one come up volunteer in my back yard this
last summer and I was able to pot it up and I'm training it as a bonsai,
now. It's still growing in doors under grow lights and doing well. I
hope to train it and even get it to bloom in it's miniature state, but
not sure how long it'll take to get it to do that from seed.




--
Maggie

posted for all of us...



On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 10:44:53 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

In ,
typed:
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 16:44:06 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

In ,
typed:
On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 09:40:56 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I have seen these gadgets that use air pressure for drain pipe
blockages. I can see that could be useful where there are too many
elbows in a small diameter pipe for a regular snake. Anyone have
experience using pressure like this? . . . ,

I tried clearing a clog with pressure and all I did was fill the
bathroom sink with poop.
(it is virtually impossible to plug up the overflow/vent)

When I read this topic, I started wondering if I could do the same
thing to clear the line in my bathroom sink -- it drains very
slowly; a chronic problem. It's one of those with the old lead
drain lines and it is a pain to try to get the snake to make the
whole trip to the end when it enters into the cast iron sewer line.
I have done that in the past and it does work, but it is a pain.

But, like you, I think that if I used the pressure approach the
issue of trying to get the overflow plugged, plus the question of
whether the pressure would make the slip joints in the sink trap
come apart, made me hesitant to try it.

Then I thought, what if I took apart the sink trap, and I installed
the expandable pressure piece directly into the sink drain line,
would that work? I haven't tried it yet, but maybe that would be an
option.

That would be step one in any drain cleaning operation anyway. ...

You are probably right about that. I just looked at the problem bathroom
sink again this morning. It has a 1 1/4 inch metal P trap that goes into
the wall, then a 90 down to below the floor, then a 90 and across the
ceiling (above the ceiling, below the floor -- I have the ceiling below
opened up) to the main 4-inch cast iron sewer line where the toilet ties in.
It's about a 7 foot horizontal run of a narrow lead pipe drain line with
almost no pirch to it.

The "clog" or partial obstruction always appears to be near the end of the
narrow lead pipe run down close to, or at, the place where it meets the
toilet sewer line. It is a chronic slow draining problem that recurs a
month or two after snaking out the line. Other evidence that the clog is
near the end of the line is that it takes awhile of running water into the
sink before the water starts to back up into the sink. So, I think the
whole pipe etc. has to fill up before it backs up into the sink -- meaning
the clog is not right at or near the sink.

After looking at it this morning, I think that I may decide to cut the
horizontal part of the P trap and put a Fernco there. Then, to snake out
the line, I will disconnect the Fernco and put the drain snake in and it
will only have to make two 90 degree turns to get all the way to the end of
the line.

While looking at what is there now, and thinking about the water pressure
device that others mentioned, I started thinking that I could invent a
fitting that attaches to a hose on one end and the other end of the fitting
would screw tightly onto the P trap up underneath where the curved part of
the P attaches to the horizontal piece. It would be a specifically designed
fitting -- maybe in two sizes -- one for 1 1/4 drain lines and one for 1 1/2
drain lines.

But, then my alarm clock went off and I woke up, and the dream was over.


If you do any cutting into that pipe at all, I would suggest

+1 What I was going to suggest.

--
Tekkie

On 1/15/2016 12:40 PM, Muggles wrote:
I've still got plenty of nice trees.

We've settled on citrus (because they produce edible fruit) and
"Mimosa" trees -- smallish (perhaps 15 ft tall/wide) with delightful
flowers that the hummingbirds ado
http://spiritrisingherbs.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/mimosa-flower.jpg

I love Mimosa trees. Had one come up volunteer in my back yard this
last summer and I was able to pot it up and I'm training it as a bonsai,
now. It's still growing in doors under grow lights and doing well. I
hope to train it and even get it to bloom in it's miniature state, but
not sure how long it'll take to get it to do that from seed.

We grew all of ours from seed. They grow fast (here, we have a very long
growing season) -- especially if aggressively watered. I think it was less
than three years to get as tall as me.

The downside is that they produce a lot of litter (seed pods).
So, we remove the pods from the tree before they get a chance to
"dry" (ripen?) and dispense their cargo to the coil, below.

Otherwise, you end up with *hundreds* of volunteers each season -- from
each tree!

I've had very limited success trying to recover volunteers from the
Texas Mountain Laurel:
http://treefolks.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Sophora-secundiflora-for-web.jpg
fabulously fragrant flowers -- smells like grape juice as you walk to
our front door! Apparently, they send a deep tap root long before
much appears above the surface. And, this root is easily damaged.

So, trick is to dig down *deep* with the tiniest of volunteers
and transfer to a pot. Then, after getting established, move to
a permanent location in the yard. I've done this successfully twice,
now. I need 2 more successes.

Downside is they take FOREVER to grow! :

Absolutely *no* luck trying to cultivate anything off the razzleberry:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/media/images/Loropetalum-chinense-v-rubrum-Razzleberri--Scott-Zona--cc-by-nc-2-0.jpg
another spectacular bloomer -- though no apparent fragrance. I suspect
the plants may be sterile (?)

In ,
typed:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 10:44:53 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

You are probably right about that. I just looked at the problem
bathroom sink again this morning. It has a 1 1/4 inch metal P trap
that goes into the wall, then a 90 down to below the floor, then a
90 and across the ceiling (above the ceiling, below the floor -- I
have the ceiling below opened up) to the main 4-inch cast iron sewer
line where the toilet ties in. It's about a 7 foot horizontal run of
a narrow lead pipe drain line with almost no pirch to it.

If you do any cutting into that pipe at all, I would suggest
increasing the pitch. Shorten the vertical at the sink end. You could
replace the 90 with a sanitary tee and create a cleanout but with
better pitch, you might never need it.

I had already removed the entire ceiling in the living room below the second
floor bath and I now have full access to the sink and bathtub drain lines
from underneath. They are both the old style narrow lead pipes, and they
both just come through the floor above and run horizontally right along the
bottom of the floor -- with each one ending into the side of the toilet
waste line. There really is no way to increase the pitch based on where
they are now and where they currently tie into the sewer line. I have
photos from underneath and I could post them, but I'll probably pass on
doing that since what I just described is really the whole story.

Now that everything is open from underneath, I think that I am probably
going to run new PVC sink and tub drain lines and route them in a different
direction down inside the living room walls and into the unfinished
basement. Then, I'll tie them into the 4-inch horizontal main sewer line in
the basement. That would allow me to use a larger PVC drain pipe size
(probably 1 1/2 inch PVC) and create plenty of pitch, and have both fixtures
drain directly into the main horizontal sewer line in the basement.

That's really the only good fix for what I have now, but I just have to
muster up the energy and the time to go ahead and do that. If I do that,
the slow drain and easy clog issues that exist now will be gone forever.

On 1/15/2016 2:03 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 1/15/2016 12:40 PM, Muggles wrote:
I've still got plenty of nice trees.

We've settled on citrus (because they produce edible fruit) and
"Mimosa" trees -- smallish (perhaps 15 ft tall/wide) with delightful
flowers that the hummingbirds ado
http://spiritrisingherbs.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/mimosa-flower.jpg


I love Mimosa trees. Had one come up volunteer in my back yard this
last summer and I was able to pot it up and I'm training it as a bonsai,
now. It's still growing in doors under grow lights and doing well. I
hope to train it and even get it to bloom in it's miniature state, but
not sure how long it'll take to get it to do that from seed.

We grew all of ours from seed. They grow fast (here, we have a very long
growing season) -- especially if aggressively watered. I think it was
less than three years to get as tall as me.

The downside is that they produce a lot of litter (seed pods).
So, we remove the pods from the tree before they get a chance to
"dry" (ripen?) and dispense their cargo to the coil, below.

Otherwise, you end up with *hundreds* of volunteers each season -- from
each tree!

I've had very limited success trying to recover volunteers from the
Texas Mountain Laurel:
http://treefolks.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Sophora-secundiflora-for-web.jpg

fabulously fragrant flowers -- smells like grape juice as you walk to
our front door! Apparently, they send a deep tap root long before
much appears above the surface. And, this root is easily damaged.

So, trick is to dig down *deep* with the tiniest of volunteers
and transfer to a pot. Then, after getting established, move to
a permanent location in the yard. I've done this successfully twice,
now. I need 2 more successes.

Downside is they take FOREVER to grow! :

Absolutely *no* luck trying to cultivate anything off the razzleberry:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/media/images/Loropetalum-chinense-v-rubrum-Razzleberri--Scott-Zona--cc-by-nc-2-0.jpg

another spectacular bloomer -- though no apparent fragrance. I suspect
the plants may be sterile (?)

It may be a hybrid, I'm thinking. It's also called Chinese Fringe
flower, at least that what it looks like. You can probably propagate it
using stem cuttings, or bury some branches in the dirt with a couple of
leaf nodes buried in the dirt and the rest of the branch growing above
ground. Maybe treat the nodes that'll be buried with rooting hormone
and keep it buried for a month or so. Roots should develop at the
buried leaf nodes, and you can cut it off from the rest of the bush
taking the roots and branch and replanting it.

--
Maggie

On Friday, January 15, 2016 at 4:03:25 PM UTC-5, TomR wrote:
In ,
typed:
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 10:44:53 -0500, "TomR" wrote:

You are probably right about that. I just looked at the problem
bathroom sink again this morning. It has a 1 1/4 inch metal P trap
that goes into the wall, then a 90 down to below the floor, then a
90 and across the ceiling (above the ceiling, below the floor -- I
have the ceiling below opened up) to the main 4-inch cast iron sewer
line where the toilet ties in. It's about a 7 foot horizontal run of
a narrow lead pipe drain line with almost no pirch to it.

If you do any cutting into that pipe at all, I would suggest
increasing the pitch. Shorten the vertical at the sink end. You could
replace the 90 with a sanitary tee and create a cleanout but with
better pitch, you might never need it.

I had already removed the entire ceiling in the living room below the second
floor bath and I now have full access to the sink and bathtub drain lines
from underneath. They are both the old style narrow lead pipes, and they
both just come through the floor above and run horizontally right along the
bottom of the floor -- with each one ending into the side of the toilet
waste line. There really is no way to increase the pitch based on where
they are now and where they currently tie into the sewer line. I have
photos from underneath and I could post them, but I'll probably pass on
doing that since what I just described is really the whole story.

Now that everything is open from underneath, I think that I am probably
going to run new PVC sink and tub drain lines and route them in a different
direction down inside the living room walls and into the unfinished
basement. Then, I'll tie them into the 4-inch horizontal main sewer line in
the basement. That would allow me to use a larger PVC drain pipe size
(probably 1 1/2 inch PVC) and create plenty of pitch, and have both fixtures
drain directly into the main horizontal sewer line in the basement.

That's really the only good fix for what I have now, but I just have to
muster up the energy and the time to go ahead and do that. If I do that,
the slow drain and easy clog issues that exist now will be gone forever.

Just keep in mind that running the pipes down the living room wall may
introduce noise from the water running through. The issue is:discussed here...

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/askt...603768,00.html

On 1/15/2016 2:31 PM, Muggles wrote:
Absolutely *no* luck trying to cultivate anything off the razzleberry:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/media/images/Loropetalum-chinense-v-rubrum-Razzleberri--Scott-Zona--cc-by-nc-2-0.jpg

another spectacular bloomer -- though no apparent fragrance. I suspect
the plants may be sterile (?)

It may be a hybrid, I'm thinking. It's also called Chinese Fringe
flower, at least that what it looks like. You can probably propagate it
using stem cuttings, or bury some branches in the dirt with a couple of
leaf nodes buried in the dirt and the rest of the branch growing above
ground. Maybe treat the nodes that'll be buried with rooting hormone
and keep it buried for a month or so. Roots should develop at the
buried leaf nodes, and you can cut it off from the rest of the bush
taking the roots and branch and replanting it.

We won't take "extraordinary measures" with these. We've tried 3 or 4
"store bought" plants to complement the ~8 ft bush we already have.
None of them have fared well. So, we suspect it's a fluke that
the *one* has done well at all!

Sad as it truly is an attractive plant!

On 1/15/2016 4:50 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 1/15/2016 2:31 PM, Muggles wrote:
Absolutely *no* luck trying to cultivate anything off the razzleberry:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/media/images/Loropetalum-chinense-v-rubrum-Razzleberri--Scott-Zona--cc-by-nc-2-0.jpg


another spectacular bloomer -- though no apparent fragrance. I suspect
the plants may be sterile (?)

It may be a hybrid, I'm thinking. It's also called Chinese Fringe
flower, at least that what it looks like. You can probably propagate it
using stem cuttings, or bury some branches in the dirt with a couple of
leaf nodes buried in the dirt and the rest of the branch growing above
ground. Maybe treat the nodes that'll be buried with rooting hormone
and keep it buried for a month or so. Roots should develop at the
buried leaf nodes, and you can cut it off from the rest of the bush
taking the roots and branch and replanting it.

We won't take "extraordinary measures" with these. We've tried 3 or 4
"store bought" plants to complement the ~8 ft bush we already have.
None of them have fared well. So, we suspect it's a fluke that
the *one* has done well at all!

Sad as it truly is an attractive plant!



The bush that is growing well already may be native, and the other
bushes grown elsewhere. That's one idea of why the new bushes don't do
well.

--
Maggie

On 1/15/2016 9:50 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 1/15/2016 4:50 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 1/15/2016 2:31 PM, Muggles wrote:
Absolutely *no* luck trying to cultivate anything off the razzleberry:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/media/images/Loropetalum-chinense-v-rubrum-Razzleberri--Scott-Zona--cc-by-nc-2-0.jpg


another spectacular bloomer -- though no apparent fragrance. I suspect
the plants may be sterile (?)

It may be a hybrid, I'm thinking. It's also called Chinese Fringe
flower, at least that what it looks like. You can probably propagate it
using stem cuttings, or bury some branches in the dirt with a couple of
leaf nodes buried in the dirt and the rest of the branch growing above
ground. Maybe treat the nodes that'll be buried with rooting hormone
and keep it buried for a month or so. Roots should develop at the
buried leaf nodes, and you can cut it off from the rest of the bush
taking the roots and branch and replanting it.

We won't take "extraordinary measures" with these. We've tried 3 or 4
"store bought" plants to complement the ~8 ft bush we already have.
None of them have fared well. So, we suspect it's a fluke that
the *one* has done well at all!

Sad as it truly is an attractive plant!

The bush that is growing well already may be native, and the other
bushes grown elsewhere. That's one idea of why the new bushes don't do
well.

No. I planted it.

On 1/15/2016 11:06 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 1/15/2016 9:50 PM, Muggles wrote:
On 1/15/2016 4:50 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 1/15/2016 2:31 PM, Muggles wrote:
Absolutely *no* luck trying to cultivate anything off the razzleberry:
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/media/images/Loropetalum-chinense-v-rubrum-Razzleberri--Scott-Zona--cc-by-nc-2-0.jpg



another spectacular bloomer -- though no apparent fragrance. I
suspect
the plants may be sterile (?)

It may be a hybrid, I'm thinking. It's also called Chinese Fringe
flower, at least that what it looks like. You can probably
propagate it
using stem cuttings, or bury some branches in the dirt with a couple of
leaf nodes buried in the dirt and the rest of the branch growing above
ground. Maybe treat the nodes that'll be buried with rooting hormone
and keep it buried for a month or so. Roots should develop at the
buried leaf nodes, and you can cut it off from the rest of the bush
taking the roots and branch and replanting it.

We won't take "extraordinary measures" with these. We've tried 3 or 4
"store bought" plants to complement the ~8 ft bush we already have.
None of them have fared well. So, we suspect it's a fluke that
the *one* has done well at all!

Sad as it truly is an attractive plant!

The bush that is growing well already may be native, and the other
bushes grown elsewhere. That's one idea of why the new bushes don't do
well.

No. I planted it.


Well ... the other bushes just didn't like you then, I guess.

--
Maggie

In ,
DerbyDad03 typed:
On Friday, January 15, 2016 at 4:03:25 PM UTC-5, TomR wrote:

Now that everything is open from underneath, I think that I am
probably going to run new PVC sink and tub drain lines and route
them in a different direction down inside the living room walls and
into the unfinished basement. Then, I'll tie them into the 4-inch
horizontal main sewer line in the basement. That would allow me to
use a larger PVC drain pipe size (probably 1 1/2 inch PVC) and
create plenty of pitch, and have both fixtures drain directly into
the main horizontal sewer line in the basement.

That's really the only good fix for what I have now, but I just have
to muster up the energy and the time to go ahead and do that. If I
do that, the slow drain and easy clog issues that exist now will be
gone forever.

Just keep in mind that running the pipes down the living room wall may
introduce noise from the water running through. The issue
is:discussed here...

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/askt...603768,00.html

That's true. I think the noise problem with PVC vs. cast iron is worse with
3-inch or 4-inch PVC for the toilet flushing. I will be leaving the cast
iron stack for the toilet in place, but the new vertical PVC in the LR wall
will be for the 2nd floor sink drain and tub drain. I may do some extra
insulating for the sound, but I am not sure. However, I did something
similar in another property for a 2nd floor sink and tub drain and I didn't
do any sound insulating and the noise level isn't really a problem.

I have read that there is a preferred pitch for sink waste lines and it might be different for toilet waste lines. There is some particular slope/pitch that is optimal for carrying the waste products along the pipe Too flat and nothing moves vey well, but too steep and the water runs off too fast leaving the waste behind. I don't have an answer, just remember reading about the problem somewhere over the last 10 years or so.

On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 12:16:42 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I have read that there is a preferred pitch for sink waste lines and it might be different for toilet waste lines. There is some particular slope/pitch that is optimal for carrying the waste products along the pipe Too flat and nothing moves vey well, but too steep and the water runs off too fast leaving the waste behind. I don't have an answer, just remember reading about the problem somewhere over the last 10 years or so.

Instructions for garbage disposals may not mention a pipe pitch under
the sink, but there is a need. Food waste could possibly back up into
the dishwasher instead of draining away?

posted for all of us...



I have read that there is a preferred pitch for sink waste lines and it might be different for toilet waste lines. There is some particular slope/pitch that is optimal for carrying the waste products along the pipe Too flat and nothing moves vey well, but too steep and the water runs off too fast leaving the waste behind. I don't have an answer, just remember reading about the problem somewhere over the last 10 years or so.

DAGS or ask AHJ.

--
Tekkie

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
I have seen these gadgets that use air pressure for drain pipe blockages. I can see that could be useful where there are too many elbows in a small diameter pipe for a regular snake. Anyone have experience using pressure like this?

First thought I had was that all the other drains might need to be plugged first. And also what's a reasonable high pressure limit?

I have had this trouble with a 1-1/2 inch washing machine drain, where there are 4 elbows before it gets to the main house drain. I was able to clear out part of the piping with a small diameter snake, but not all. Eventually got it cleared out alternating boiling water, then flushing with hot water, then drano, water flush, snake, etc. Also make a tight connection from the hot water faucet to the 1-1/2 standpipe and ran it until it flowed normally. All this worked, but it took a lot of time.


Well, I pulled the outlet house out of the standpipe, connected a hose to the hot water spigot and turned in on full blast into the standpipe and it never even started to back up. Flow was much faster than the washer puts out. Just for fun, I gave it the hot water treatment plus 2 drano dumps, then replaced the washer hose.

Then I saw that the hose had backed out of the pipe and turned so that the water was now hitting the walls and not going directly down. I turned it and put some silicone around it to keep it from turning and took care of the backing up.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
I have seen these gadgets that use air pressure for drain pipe blockages. I can see that could be useful where there are too many elbows in a small diameter pipe for a regular snake. Anyone have experience using pressure like this?

First thought I had was that all the other drains might need to be plugged first. And also what's a reasonable high pressure limit?

I have had this trouble with a 1-1/2 inch washing machine drain, where there are 4 elbows before it gets to the main house drain. I was able to clear out part of the piping with a small diameter snake, but not all. Eventually got it cleared out alternating boiling water, then flushing with hot water, then drano, water flush, snake, etc. Also make a tight connection from the hot water faucet to the 1-1/2 standpipe and ran it until it flowed normally. All this worked, but it took a lot of time.


Well, I pulled the outlet house out of the standpipe, connected a hose to the hot water spigot and turned in on full blast into the standpipe and it never even started to back up. Flow was much faster than the washer puts out. Just for fun, I gave it the hot water treatment plus 2 drano dumps, then replaced the washer hose.

Then I saw that the hose had backed out of the pipe and turned so that the water was now hitting the walls and not going directly down. I turned it and put some silicone around it to keep it from turning and took care of the backing up.

And, yes, I sealed that sucker water and air tight. I was hoping that would kill the pump by now, but with my luck it will probably be there long after I'm gone.

In ,
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney typed:
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
I have seen these gadgets that use air pressure for drain pipe
blockages. I can see that could be useful where there are too many
elbows in a small diameter pipe for a regular snake. Anyone have
experience using pressure like this?

Well, I pulled the outlet house out of the standpipe, connected a
hose to the hot water spigot and turned in on full blast into the
standpipe and it never even started to back up. Flow was much faster
than the washer puts out. Just for fun, I gave it the hot water
treatment plus 2 drano dumps, then replaced the washer hose.

Then I saw that the hose had backed out of the pipe and turned so
that the water was now hitting the walls and not going directly down.
I turned it and put some silicone around it to keep it from turning
and took care of the backing up.

And, yes, I sealed that sucker water and air tight. I was hoping
that would kill the pump by now, but with my luck it will probably be
there long after I'm gone.

Oops, I don't think you are supposed to seal the washer discharge hose in
the drain pipe where it is air tight and water tight. Anything that pumps
water into any drain line is supposed to have an air gap in the system.
That prevents the stuff in the sewer line from backing up into the water
supply system. If you do a Google search for --- sewer drain air gap
--- and then click on Google Images, you'll see lots of examples of how
the air gap is supposed to be set up.

TomR posted for all of us...



In ,
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney typed:
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
I have seen these gadgets that use air pressure for drain pipe
blockages. I can see that could be useful where there are too many
elbows in a small diameter pipe for a regular snake. Anyone have
experience using pressure like this?

Well, I pulled the outlet house out of the standpipe, connected a
hose to the hot water spigot and turned in on full blast into the
standpipe and it never even started to back up. Flow was much faster
than the washer puts out. Just for fun, I gave it the hot water
treatment plus 2 drano dumps, then replaced the washer hose.

Then I saw that the hose had backed out of the pipe and turned so
that the water was now hitting the walls and not going directly down.
I turned it and put some silicone around it to keep it from turning
and took care of the backing up.

And, yes, I sealed that sucker water and air tight. I was hoping
that would kill the pump by now, but with my luck it will probably be
there long after I'm gone.

Oops, I don't think you are supposed to seal the washer discharge hose in
the drain pipe where it is air tight and water tight. Anything that pumps
water into any drain line is supposed to have an air gap in the system.
That prevents the stuff in the sewer line from backing up into the water
supply system. If you do a Google search for --- sewer drain air gap
--- and then click on Google Images, you'll see lots of examples of how
the air gap is supposed to be set up.

+1 for that it should not be airtight. So Snuffy you are telling us the
drain is no longer constipated and everything is up to Snuff?

--
Tekkie

"Tekkie®" wrote in message ...
TomR posted for all of us...

In ,
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney typed:
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
I have seen these gadgets that use air pressure for drain pipe
blockages. I can see that could be useful where there are too many
elbows in a small diameter pipe for a regular snake. Anyone have
experience using pressure like this?

Well, I pulled the outlet house out of the standpipe, connected a
hose to the hot water spigot and turned in on full blast into the
standpipe and it never even started to back up. Flow was much faster
than the washer puts out. Just for fun, I gave it the hot water
treatment plus 2 drano dumps, then replaced the washer hose.

Then I saw that the hose had backed out of the pipe and turned so
that the water was now hitting the walls and not going directly down.
I turned it and put some silicone around it to keep it from turning
and took care of the backing up.

And, yes, I sealed that sucker water and air tight. I was hoping
that would kill the pump by now, but with my luck it will probably be
there long after I'm gone.

Oops, I don't think you are supposed to seal the washer discharge hose in
the drain pipe where it is air tight and water tight. Anything that pumps
water into any drain line is supposed to have an air gap in the system.
That prevents the stuff in the sewer line from backing up into the water
supply system. If you do a Google search for --- sewer drain air gap
--- and then click on Google Images, you'll see lots of examples of how
the air gap is supposed to be set up.

+1 for that it should not be airtight. So Snuffy you are telling us the
drain is no longer constipated and everything is up to Snuff?

--
Tekkie

I see what you mean about the suction break. I can't risk having it overflow. What about adding this tee and running a 1-inch line straight out the wall of the house to the outside?

http://oi64.tinypic.com/29dxpg3.jpg

On Tue, 19 Jan 2016 16:28:26 -0600, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
wrote:



I see what you mean about the suction break. I can't risk having it
overflow. What about adding this tee and running a 1-inch line straight
out the wall of the house to the outside?

http://oi64.tinypic.com/29dxpg3.jpg

Would a plumbing auto vent be a better solution?


--
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

In ,
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney typed:
"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
TomR posted for all of us...

In ,
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
typed:
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
I have seen these gadgets that use air pressure for drain pipe
blockages. I can see that could be useful where there are too
many elbows in a small diameter pipe for a regular snake. Anyone
have experience using pressure like this?

Well, I pulled the outlet house out of the standpipe, connected a
hose to the hot water spigot and turned in on full blast into the
standpipe and it never even started to back up. Flow was much
faster than the washer puts out. Just for fun, I gave it the hot
water treatment plus 2 drano dumps, then replaced the washer hose.

Then I saw that the hose had backed out of the pipe and turned so
that the water was now hitting the walls and not going directly
down. I turned it and put some silicone around it to keep it from
turning and took care of the backing up.

And, yes, I sealed that sucker water and air tight. I was hoping
that would kill the pump by now, but with my luck it will probably
be there long after I'm gone.

Oops, I don't think you are supposed to seal the washer discharge
hose in the drain pipe where it is air tight and water tight.
Anything that pumps water into any drain line is supposed to have
an air gap in the system. That prevents the stuff in the sewer line
from backing up into the water supply system. If you do a Google
search for --- sewer drain air gap --- and then click on
Google Images, you'll see lots of examples of how the air gap is
supposed to be set up.

+1 for that it should not be airtight. So Snuffy you are telling us
the drain is no longer constipated and everything is up to Snuff?

--
Tekkie

I see what you mean about the suction break. I can't risk having it
overflow. What about adding this tee and running a 1-inch line
straight out the wall of the house to the outside?

http://oi64.tinypic.com/29dxpg3.jpg

I think you could do something like that, but I would try to have the Tee
come off of the PVC pipe and then go to the outside. Or, maybe it could be
another "Y" like the one you have now and place it below the existing Y.
Or, put the washer pump-out hose into the top of the existing PVC and run an
overflow from the side of the exiting Y to the outside.

"TomR" wrote in message ...
In ,
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney typed:
"Tekkie®" wrote in message
...
TomR posted for all of us...

In ,
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
typed:
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
wrote in message
...
I have seen these gadgets that use air pressure for drain pipe
blockages. I can see that could be useful where there are too
many elbows in a small diameter pipe for a regular snake. Anyone
have experience using pressure like this?

Well, I pulled the outlet house out of the standpipe, connected a
hose to the hot water spigot and turned in on full blast into the
standpipe and it never even started to back up. Flow was much
faster than the washer puts out. Just for fun, I gave it the hot
water treatment plus 2 drano dumps, then replaced the washer hose.

Then I saw that the hose had backed out of the pipe and turned so
that the water was now hitting the walls and not going directly
down. I turned it and put some silicone around it to keep it from
turning and took care of the backing up.

And, yes, I sealed that sucker water and air tight. I was hoping
that would kill the pump by now, but with my luck it will probably
be there long after I'm gone.

Oops, I don't think you are supposed to seal the washer discharge
hose in the drain pipe where it is air tight and water tight.
Anything that pumps water into any drain line is supposed to have
an air gap in the system. That prevents the stuff in the sewer line
from backing up into the water supply system. If you do a Google
search for --- sewer drain air gap --- and then click on
Google Images, you'll see lots of examples of how the air gap is
supposed to be set up.

+1 for that it should not be airtight. So Snuffy you are telling us
the drain is no longer constipated and everything is up to Snuff?

--
Tekkie

I see what you mean about the suction break. I can't risk having it
overflow. What about adding this tee and running a 1-inch line
straight out the wall of the house to the outside?

http://oi64.tinypic.com/29dxpg3.jpg

I think you could do something like that, but I would try to have the Tee
come off of the PVC pipe and then go to the outside. Or, maybe it could be
another "Y" like the one you have now and place it below the existing Y.
Or, put the washer pump-out hose into the top of the existing PVC and run an
overflow from the side of the exiting Y to the outside.

In this case, the Y is completely inside the wall. I will have to connect a tees between the Y and the washer hose.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...in/adapter.gif

In ,
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney typed:
"TomR" wrote in message

I think you could do something like that, but I would try to have
the Tee come off of the PVC pipe and then go to the outside. Or,
maybe it could be another "Y" like the one you have now and place it
below the existing Y. Or, put the washer pump-out hose into the top
of the existing PVC and run an overflow from the side of the exiting
Y to the outside.

In this case, the Y is completely inside the wall. I will have to
connect a tees between the Y and the washer hose.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...in/adapter.gif

Ok, got it.

It seems like you will be able to figure it out based on what you drawing
shows that you already did. If there is room, maybe you could put an
overflow Tee in where you have the PVC but before the reducer to 1 inch.

How did you create that drawing of what you have now?

"TomR" wrote in message ...
In ,
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney typed:
"TomR" wrote in message

I think you could do something like that, but I would try to have
the Tee come off of the PVC pipe and then go to the outside. Or,
maybe it could be another "Y" like the one you have now and place it
below the existing Y. Or, put the washer pump-out hose into the top
of the existing PVC and run an overflow from the side of the exiting
Y to the outside.

In this case, the Y is completely inside the wall. I will have to
connect a tees between the Y and the washer hose.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g...in/adapter.gif

Ok, got it.

It seems like you will be able to figure it out based on what you drawing
shows that you already did. If there is room, maybe you could put an
overflow Tee in where you have the PVC but before the reducer to 1 inch.

How did you create that drawing of what you have now?

Thanks Tom. I'm the type that learns from my mistakes, sometimes over and over. LOL! I just used 1994 version 3.11 of Paint Shop Pro shareware. It's just a rough sketch using Paint Shop Pro 3.11 (ancient shareware) looking at the parts I have. I tend to get carried away with the details.

In the past I was trying to figure a way to add an overflow and not have to drill through the outside wall, but never could come up with anything that didn't require regular checking and dumping. Installing the drain outside, I can collect it in a bucket and use it for washing the car, etc.