I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

On 12/13/2015 8:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?

It "keeps" well enough (as in, retains it's effectiveness).
It just doesn't "stay inside" the container (toothpaste-style
tubes). Particularly the hardener.

Tubes were opened a little less than a month ago. Hardener
is noticeably "soiled" on the outside (yes, I put the caps on
tight).

As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 10:33:02 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 12/13/2015 8:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?

It "keeps" well enough (as in, retains it's effectiveness).
It just doesn't "stay inside" the container (toothpaste-style
tubes). Particularly the hardener.

Tubes were opened a little less than a month ago. Hardener
is noticeably "soiled" on the outside (yes, I put the caps on
tight).

Just keep them in a zip bag if it bothers you. I keep mine in an Akro
Bin along with other adhesives.

On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants


Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have
not used it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

Gorilla glue bottles are polyethylene which is amongst the worst
possible plastic barrier resins.

Even ketchup is packed in better bottles.

On 12/13/2015 12:04 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 10:33:02 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 12/13/2015 8:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?

It "keeps" well enough (as in, retains it's effectiveness).
It just doesn't "stay inside" the container (toothpaste-style
tubes). Particularly the hardener.

Tubes were opened a little less than a month ago. Hardener
is noticeably "soiled" on the outside (yes, I put the caps on
tight).

Just keep them in a zip bag if it bothers you. I keep mine in an Akro
Bin along with other adhesives.

Why not find another vendor who makes a product that DOESN'T leave
a mess on the tube, wherever it's stored *and* your hands when you
use it?

On 12/13/2015 12:47 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have not used
it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

That's apparently not true. I recently tossed an "almost unopened"
"Loctite 5 minute epoxy for Plastics" (siamese syringe style package) as
the hardener and resin *both* degraded -- stored indoors and probably
less than a year old.

OTOH, I recall painting the garage floor many decades ago with some
epoxy paint that was probably stored for 5 years (in a sealed container).

Gorilla glue bottles are polyethylene which is amongst the worst possible
plastic barrier resins.

Even ketchup is packed in better bottles.

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 14:28:16 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 12/13/2015 12:47 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have not used
it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

That's apparently not true. I recently tossed an "almost unopened"
"Loctite 5 minute epoxy for Plastics" (siamese syringe style package) as
the hardener and resin *both* degraded -- stored indoors and probably
less than a year old.

OTOH, I recall painting the garage floor many decades ago with some
epoxy paint that was probably stored for 5 years (in a sealed container).

Gorilla glue bottles are polyethylene which is amongst the worst possible
plastic barrier resins.

Even ketchup is packed in better bottles.

I buy epoxy and superglue in the smallest amounts they sell, and toss
what's left after I use it.

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 10:33:02 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

It "keeps" well enough (as in, retains it's effectiveness).
It just doesn't "stay inside" the container (toothpaste-style
tubes). Particularly the hardener.

Tubes were opened a little less than a month ago. Hardener
is noticeably "soiled" on the outside (yes, I put the caps on
tight).

As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

I've always praised JB Weld. It fixes a lot of stuff, and has always
held up well.

However, I can not offer as much praise for their company. Some years
ago, I wanted to coat the entire bottom of a metal livestock tank which
was rusty. Those tanks are costly, so it was worth doing. I bought 5
tubes of JB Weld at a local farm supply store. Apparently it had been on
the shelf too long, and was very stiff and hard to get out of the tube.
In fact it was so hard, I had to press down on the tube with my shoe to
get it out. Then it was very hard to mix and to spread. After using 3
tubes, and cussing the whole time, I bought several more tubes elsewhere
and that worked fine. I tried to return the 2 remaining tubes to the
farm store, and they told me they said that it "cant be bad", and
refused to give me my money back.

I called the JB Weld company, and offerred to mail them the unused tubes
and those I had used too. (after explaining the situation). They told me
I would not have to mail them, and that they would send me 5 new tubes.
That was 4 or 5 years ago. I still have not gotten them in the mail.

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 14:47:14 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants


Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have
not used it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

Gorilla glue bottles are polyethylene which is amongst the worst
possible plastic barrier resins.

Even ketchup is packed in better bottles.

I have never found Gorilla glue to be that great. I did a controlled
test on softwood and hardwood bonding (3 combinations) and regular old
yellow carpenter glue beat it.

On 12/13/2015 2:45 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 14:28:16 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 12/13/2015 12:47 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have not used
it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

That's apparently not true. I recently tossed an "almost unopened"
"Loctite 5 minute epoxy for Plastics" (siamese syringe style package) as
the hardener and resin *both* degraded -- stored indoors and probably
less than a year old.

OTOH, I recall painting the garage floor many decades ago with some
epoxy paint that was probably stored for 5 years (in a sealed container).

Gorilla glue bottles are polyethylene which is amongst the worst possible
plastic barrier resins.

Even ketchup is packed in better bottles.

I buy epoxy and superglue in the smallest amounts they sell, and toss
what's left after I use it.

Years ago, I was given a bunch of these tiny, "single use" packets;
sort of like the sealed "ketchup" packets but smaller -- resin and
hardener side-by-side. Fold in half (so the hardener and resin
packets are on top of each other). Cut the end off (scissors or utility
knife). Pinch end between fingers and slide fingers up towards
the open end to force both ingredients out onto a mixing surface.

No practical way fo saving anything "in" the packets so you didn't
even try! And, as there wasn't a whole lot of material there to
begin with, you never felt like you were discarding much!

On 12/13/2015 2:45 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
I buy epoxy and superglue in the smallest amounts they sell, and toss
what's left after I use it.

I've found that "Krazy Glue Craft" holds up well! It comes in a
bottle like a nail-polish bottle (with a little "brush" applicator)
and screw on cap -- instead of those little squeeze tubes that
immediately clog.

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 17:01:45 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 12/13/2015 2:45 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
I buy epoxy and superglue in the smallest amounts they sell, and toss
what's left after I use it.

I've found that "Krazy Glue Craft" holds up well! It comes in a
bottle like a nail-polish bottle (with a little "brush" applicator)
and screw on cap -- instead of those little squeeze tubes that
immediately clog.

I agree with Vic. Buy the crazy glue stuff in small, "one shot" tubes.
The discount places sell them in a 6 pack for a buck or so.
I do buy epoxy in larger containers but I use a lot of it.
I have several different kinds for different stuff. It is a subtle
difference but a difference nonetheless.

On 12/13/2015 4:28 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 12/13/2015 12:47 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have
not used
it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

That's apparently not true. I recently tossed an "almost unopened"
"Loctite 5 minute epoxy for Plastics" (siamese syringe style package) as
the hardener and resin *both* degraded -- stored indoors and probably
less than a year old.


I've used 5 minute type epoxy and it was good til the last drop. I
suspect cross contamination.

On 12/13/2015 6:35 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 14:47:14 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants


Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have
not used it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

Gorilla glue bottles are polyethylene which is amongst the worst
possible plastic barrier resins.

Even ketchup is packed in better bottles.

I have never found Gorilla glue to be that great. I did a controlled
test on softwood and hardwood bonding (3 combinations) and regular old
yellow carpenter glue beat it.


The old carpenter glue is better for gluing wood and polyurethanes don't
hold up as well for long term use.

On 12/13/2015 02:24 PM, Don Y wrote:
Why not find another vendor who makes a product that DOESN'T leave
a mess on the tube, wherever it's stored *and* your hands when you
use it?

Because I've never found a brand of epoxy that comes in toothpaste tubes
that doesn't? The plunger types are even worse though I think I've seen
some that come with a mixing tube that are meant for one time use.

On 12/13/2015 8:17 AM, Don Y wrote:
I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Might mention that my comments on long term stability of epoxies are
based on the pure ingredients which generally are the epoxy bisphenol A
diglycidyl ether and an aliphatic amine or poly amide curing agent. This
is the stuff I have stored in my basement that is 40 years old and still
looks good.

Materials such as J-B weld contain fillers like calcium carbonate, talc
and metal powder along with some solvents.

These could change stability and lead to shorter lifetime of the
ingredients. For example, the solvent could evaporate and make the mass
tough to work with.

Same type comments would hold for the fast curing epoxy which would
contain a catalyst that might lower long term stability.

So it is hard to judge the storability of epoxies under these circumstances.

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Absolutely.

PC-7 and PC-11 are great. And there's no need to buy a new PC, only
the glue.

I would buy it in a pair of 4oz. cans. Ace Hardware has that size
iirc. If you use separate popsicle sticks or separate screwdrivers
for each can, and never let any of one touch the other, I've gone 20
years on the same 8 ounces and the unused stuff looks like new. ( Most
of my repairs are small. I haven't been doing as much gluing in the
last 10 years (plus I also use 5-minute epoxy in the syringe.)


I'm not sure of the difference except the first is dark grey and the
second is white. I think the second was labeled for marine use, but
the first is water-resistant I think, also. Still, they must know
something. So if you need to glue a marine, use PC-11.

PC-7
" Two-part multipurpose epoxy adhesive paste works as a bonding agent,
sealant, and filler for a range of indoor and outdoor applications
Bonds many materials, including fiberglass, wood, concrete, many
metals, brick, glass, ceramic, and rubber
Seals oil, gas, and water tank leaks, as well as plumbing and masonry
cracks
Fills holes, castings, and molds
Application temperature range is 35 to 115 degrees F, and service
temperature range is -20 to +200 degrees F
PC-7 formulation provides extended working time, for large and
critical jobs, which allow the user to reposition work or make
changes.
High "wet grab" or tack of PC-7 Paste Epoxy makes overhead and
sidewall work easy, without drip or sag. [it sagged for me, but if
I'd waited 2 more minutes before I put it on, it wouldn't have. Better
to put it on early and keep pushing it back where it should go.]
Note: PC-7 will not bond to wax paper, Teflon, Polyethylene and some
other plastics. Test a small area when in doubt."

PC-11
" Two-part marine epoxy adhesive paste bonds materials in dry, wet,
and underwater environments. Bonds many materials, including
fiberglass, concrete, many metals, glass, ceramic, and rubber
Can be used in indoor and outdoor applications, with a temperature
range of 35 to 115 degrees F and a service temperature range -20 to
+200 degrees F High-tack paste can be used in vertical and overhead
applications Resists mild acids, caustics, detergents, gasoline, fuel
oil, and fresh and salt water"


They are not as drippy as JBWeld, and can be smoothed with a wet
finger. (Tastes terrible. Use the next finger.)

It sticks to glass, aiui.

My first occasion to use one was a dripping drain pipe below a
dripping faucet. I didn't feel like fixing everything so I only did
what was essential, the drain, and even though it was dripping water
while I worked on it, PC-7 still hardened and was waterproof.
Incredible. It takes about 5 minutes to harden, and it would droop
while i was waiting, so I'd push it back up, and eventually it
hardeded while it was up, in good contact with much of the pipel

In another case, I was missing the cap for a wine sack. I coated the
threads with vaseline and molded a cap from PC-7. When it hardened, I
drilled a hole for a string to tie it to the wine sack. I'll admit I
never use the thing, but it's still good 40 years later.

Another time I had a commercial grade food mixer, and the teeth were
damaged from one fiber gear. 5 were missing. I put a lump of PC-7
on the area and when it dried, I carved teeth in it. It only ran for
a minute, before one or more teeth broke, but I think that's pretty
good Little teeth under a lot of pressure, even the originals broke.

I also patched a sauce pan, and then forgot and boiled all the water
out of it. It still didn't leak.


http://www.amazon.com/PC-Products-Tw.../dp/B008H4QSAW
has six different sizes.

http://www.amazon.com/PC-Products-Tw...keywords=pc-11
seven sizes. including one ounce.

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 14:28:16 -0700, Don Y
wrote:


That's apparently not true. I recently tossed an "almost unopened"
"Loctite 5 minute epoxy for Plastics" (siamese syringe style package) as
the hardener and resin *both* degraded -- stored indoors and probably
less than a year old.

i must admit that my 5-minute epoxy for plastics in a syringe is
dripping out of hte syringe, and I didn't notice, and now I have to
clean it up. I stopped it by pointing the opening up.

But other plastic siamese syringes have lasted for years. While some
have hardened after a couple years.

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 20:59:18 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Absolutely.

PC-7 and PC-11 are great. And there's no need to buy a new PC, only
the glue.

That's because the products were invented before personal computers
were.

http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/...oxies/pc-7.php


Despite what it says, it cleans up with water.

Directions:
Using separate knives to remove amount needed, mix equal parts A
(grey) and B (black) on flat clean surface until uniform color is

[I use some glossy cardboard like a cereal box. I don't know why
I want glossy, considering I throw it away.]

achieved. Surfaces to be bonded must be free of dirt, oil, rust, etc.
For best results, rough up the surface PC-7® will be bonding to.
[I've not had to do this]
Normally, no vice or clamp needed. Prop or tape heavy objects to a
wall or ceiling.

Apply PC-7® Epoxy Paste in any thickness to both sides of surface and
bring together firmly. Be careful to insure that ample amount of PC-7®
remains between the contact surfaces. Use screen wire or fiberglass
cloth to reinforce large voids and gaps.

Denatured alcohol is excellent for smoothing applied PC-7®. Also use
Denatured alcohol to clean surfaces before applying.

After cu Paint, Drill, Machine, Sand, File, Tap, or Saw.

On 12/13/2015 5:45 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 12/13/2015 02:24 PM, Don Y wrote:
Why not find another vendor who makes a product that DOESN'T leave
a mess on the tube, wherever it's stored *and* your hands when you
use it?

Because I've never found a brand of epoxy that comes in toothpaste tubes that
doesn't? The plunger types are even worse though I think I've seen some that
come with a mixing tube that are meant for one time use.

This is my first experience with one that does! In fact, first
experience with anything that comes in a toothpaste-like tube
leaking out AFTER the cap has been firmly screwed on!

Medications, artist paints, other adhesives, toothpaste, etc. have
always "behaved". I've seen folks "squeeze too hard" or "in the middle
of the tube" and get more than they bargained for -- and neglected to clean
off the excess before replacing the cap. But, if there wasn't anything
actively oozing out of the tube when the cap was replaced, I've never
come back to find it having oozed "through" (around) the cap!

The dual-plunger (syringe) behave similarly; if you exert too much
pressure (for the viscosity of the contents), then the stuff oozes
long after you've "stopped pushing" -- as if the stuff is currently
compressed inside the tubes from your pressure and is now looking to
release that pent up energy.

The concrete adhesive that I use is a "two chamber", plunger-driven
sort of storage/dispense mechanism. The "nozzle" through which the
adhesive is dispensed is very long and contains a sort of screw-like
chamber that forces the two-parts to commingle *in* the nozzle before
exiting onto your workpiece. Of course, this makes the nozzle a
single-use item; PLAN AHEad!

On 12/13/2015 5:09 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 4:28 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 12/13/2015 12:47 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have
not used
it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

That's apparently not true. I recently tossed an "almost unopened"
"Loctite 5 minute epoxy for Plastics" (siamese syringe style package) as
the hardener and resin *both* degraded -- stored indoors and probably
less than a year old.

I've used 5 minute type epoxy and it was good til the last drop. I suspect
cross contamination.

The tubes of the syringe are 2+ inches long and half an inch in diameter.
You're expecting something AT THE TIP (which is the only place where
the contents of each are "exposed" to any "contaminants") to travel back
up through the dispensing nozzle and all of the "raw material"? I
could understand the portion of the material that had already "left"
it's nominal storage are in the tube(s) to begin the trip "out".

But, that would be easily purged by "wasting" some "spoiled" material
with the expectation that there would be virgin material waiting
"behind it". This nearly full ("almost unopened") unit was shot
through and through!

I have another unopened one that I will be watching carefully to see
if this is just a brand that I need to avoid in the future (it has
proven to be very good, otherwise)

On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 23:59:16 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 12/13/2015 5:45 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 12/13/2015 02:24 PM, Don Y wrote:
Why not find another vendor who makes a product that DOESN'T leave
a mess on the tube, wherever it's stored *and* your hands when you
use it?

Because I've never found a brand of epoxy that comes in toothpaste tubes that
doesn't? The plunger types are even worse though I think I've seen some that
come with a mixing tube that are meant for one time use.

This is my first experience with one that does! In fact, first
experience with anything that comes in a toothpaste-like tube
leaking out AFTER the cap has been firmly screwed on!

Medications, artist paints, other adhesives, toothpaste, etc. have
always "behaved". I've seen folks "squeeze too hard" or "in the middle
of the tube" and get more than they bargained for -- and neglected to clean
off the excess before replacing the cap. But, if there wasn't anything
actively oozing out of the tube when the cap was replaced, I've never
come back to find it having oozed "through" (around) the cap!

The dual-plunger (syringe) behave similarly; if you exert too much
pressure (for the viscosity of the contents), then the stuff oozes
long after you've "stopped pushing" -- as if the stuff is currently
compressed inside the tubes from your pressure and is now looking to
release that pent up energy.

The concrete adhesive that I use is a "two chamber", plunger-driven
sort of storage/dispense mechanism. The "nozzle" through which the
adhesive is dispensed is very long and contains a sort of screw-like
chamber that forces the two-parts to commingle *in* the nozzle before
exiting onto your workpiece. Of course, this makes the nozzle a
single-use item; PLAN AHEad!

Yes, that's what I don't like about the long nozzle. Single use and a
bunch of the material is wasted, inside the nozzle and no way to get
it out. Plus i know I can mix it well. I put it on a glossy piece
of cardboard, like the box from frozen food, or even from Ritz
crackers, and I stir it up with a kitchen match. It's true, if you
don't stir it enough it won't harden right, but I can stir it as well
as the long nozzle can. (which I have doubts about.)

posted for all of us...



I have never found Gorilla glue to be that great. I did a controlled
test on softwood and hardwood bonding (3 combinations) and regular old
yellow carpenter glue beat it.


+1 on that. I used GG on an unstressed piece of wood and after about a year
it failed. Reg carpenters glue never did.

--
Tekkie

Don Y wrote:
On 12/13/2015 5:09 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 4:28 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 12/13/2015 12:47 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have
not used
it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

That's apparently not true. I recently tossed an "almost unopened"
"Loctite 5 minute epoxy for Plastics" (siamese syringe style package) as
the hardener and resin *both* degraded -- stored indoors and probably
less than a year old.

I've used 5 minute type epoxy and it was good til the last drop. I
suspect
cross contamination.

The tubes of the syringe are 2+ inches long and half an inch in diameter.
You're expecting something AT THE TIP (which is the only place where
the contents of each are "exposed" to any "contaminants") to travel back
up through the dispensing nozzle and all of the "raw material"? I
could understand the portion of the material that had already "left"
it's nominal storage are in the tube(s) to begin the trip "out".

But, that would be easily purged by "wasting" some "spoiled" material
with the expectation that there would be virgin material waiting
"behind it". This nearly full ("almost unopened") unit was shot
through and through!

I have another unopened one that I will be watching carefully to see
if this is just a brand that I need to avoid in the future (it has
proven to be very good, otherwise)

I keep my epoxies and Gorilla Glue in the door rack of our kitchen's
freezer compartment. It takes very little time to warm them up enough to
use them. I've had a pair of tubes of electrically conductive epoxy
(expensive stuff that) in there for at least ten years and it's "good as
new" when I need to use a little bit.

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 12/16/2015 3:19 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:


Don Y wrote:
On 12/13/2015 5:09 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 4:28 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 12/13/2015 12:47 PM, Frank wrote:
On 12/13/2015 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Dec 2015 06:17:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

Since epoxy is a 2 part system, it keeps pretty well without being
totally sealed and screwing the cap on is usually enough. How long
would you plan on storing it?
As adhesives go, the epoxy based stuff seems far more robust than most
after you open it. poly urethane glues like Gorilla glue will go bad
in the factory sealed container and once you open the clock is
running. The same is true of silicone sealants

Epoxies will keep for years. I've got stuff maybe 40 years old. Have
not used
it lately but suspect it is still good.

They do not cure with moisture like the others you mentioned.

That's apparently not true. I recently tossed an "almost unopened"
"Loctite 5 minute epoxy for Plastics" (siamese syringe style package) as
the hardener and resin *both* degraded -- stored indoors and probably
less than a year old.

I've used 5 minute type epoxy and it was good til the last drop. I
suspect
cross contamination.

The tubes of the syringe are 2+ inches long and half an inch in diameter.
You're expecting something AT THE TIP (which is the only place where
the contents of each are "exposed" to any "contaminants") to travel back
up through the dispensing nozzle and all of the "raw material"? I
could understand the portion of the material that had already "left"
it's nominal storage are in the tube(s) to begin the trip "out".

But, that would be easily purged by "wasting" some "spoiled" material
with the expectation that there would be virgin material waiting
"behind it". This nearly full ("almost unopened") unit was shot
through and through!

I have another unopened one that I will be watching carefully to see
if this is just a brand that I need to avoid in the future (it has
proven to be very good, otherwise)

I keep my epoxies and Gorilla Glue in the door rack of our kitchen's freezer
compartment. It takes very little time to warm them up enough to use them. I've
had a pair of tubes of electrically conductive epoxy (expensive stuff that) in
there for at least ten years and it's "good as new" when I need to use a little
bit.

I keep the syringes of solder paste in the door rack of the refrigerator.

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 5:17:32 AM UTC-8, Don Y wrote:
I've been using JBWeld and have been happy with the results;
not happy that the tubes seem impossible to reseal, completely.

Any other products with which folks have had success?

It's fairly cheap.
Just buy another unit.
(had a pair of tubes for several years now)