Is there any way to set or to zero the temperature on a 5 year old GE profile (double oven) SS23341OP range please?

The oven temperature bears no relationship to what is on the display.

Mine seems completely haywire. When the display reaches (say) 350 degrees, an oven temp gauge seems to be at around 300. Leaving the oven at the 350 setting for a time, the gauge sometimes stabilises at 425, sometimes it goes up to 500 degrees!!

I have already changed the thermostat and it didnt affect the problem at all. What else can I try please?

Or are there only two components to the system, the thermostat and the control panel behind the display? Does that contain all the sensors, chips etc?

On 10/14/2015 3:47 PM, DManzaluni wrote:
Is there any way to set or to zero the temperature on a 5 year old GE profile (double oven) SS23341OP range please?

The oven temperature bears no relationship to what is on the display.

Mine seems completely haywire. When the display reaches (say) 350 degrees, an oven temp gauge seems to be at around 300. Leaving the oven at the 350 setting for a time, the gauge sometimes stabilises at 425, sometimes it goes up to 500 degrees!!

I have already changed the thermostat and it didnt affect the problem at all. What else can I try please?

Or are there only two components to the system, the thermostat and the control panel behind the display? Does that contain all the sensors, chips etc?


Yeah, I gots one of those ovens.

On 10/14/2015 6:47 PM, DManzaluni wrote:
Is there any way to set or to zero the temperature on a 5 year old GE profile (double oven) SS23341OP range please?

The oven temperature bears no relationship to what is on the display.

Mine seems completely haywire. When the display reaches (say) 350 degrees, an oven temp gauge seems to be at around 300. Leaving the oven at the 350 setting for a time, the gauge sometimes stabilises at 425, sometimes it goes up to 500 degrees!!

I have already changed the thermostat and it didnt affect the problem at all. What else can I try please?

Or are there only two components to the system, the thermostat and the control panel behind the display? Does that contain all the sensors, chips etc?

Sorry, I don't have any specifics on your oven. But, about 14 years ago
we bought a Dacor built in oven. We always suspected control problems.
When I checked, there was indeed control problems. Set at 350, it would
over shoot and then undershoot 350. Calling Dacor was absolutely no
help. They just kept repeating the words on the script that industry
standard allows a 25 degree variation. Well this one was a little worse,
say maybe 30 or so. BTW, 25 degrees is ok for baking large mass things,
however for small things like cookies, etc. it means the difference
between undercooked and overcooked. We lived with it for 5 years. I
called Dacor again and they said they have a new controller unit (the
whole front panel) which holds the temperature much tighter. They
offered it for free, but the catch is, that I had to have it done by a
so called professional and pay them. So, it cost me $100 to get what
should have been there in the 1st place. With the new control panel, it
was significantly better, but not as good as I would have liked it. Now
there was a top to bottom swing of about 14 degrees. I now have a
Whirlpool in a different house and have never measured the temperature
because the baking results have been very good.

On Thursday, October 15, 2015 at 9:13:26 AM UTC-4, Art Todesco wrote:

From my reading, I would agree that it sounds like something is
faulty in his oven. If it's wandering all over, it's not a calibration
issue. If he wants to DIY, I'd find a schematic, may be one online.
Also any of the online parts stores have exploded diagrams where
he could get some idea of the parts and how they come together.

On Thu, 15 Oct 2015 06:22:16 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

If he wants to DIY, I'd find a schematic, may be one online.
Also any of the online parts stores have exploded diagrams where
he could get some idea of the parts and how they come together.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/

or

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/

Someone mentioned somewhere that with this oven, it is either the control panel which costs about a third the price of the whole unit or the thermostat. I was hoping someone would have other ideas but I suppose the answer must be

"they said they have a new controller unit (the whole front panel) which holds the temperature much tighter."

Or is there anywhere to rebuild it other than Core Centrics which charges about 10% discount off the brand new price of the GE part WB27T10276?

On 10/15/2015 1:48 PM, DManzaluni wrote:
Someone mentioned somewhere that with this oven, it is either the control
panel which costs about a third the price of the whole unit or the
thermostat. I was hoping someone would have other ideas but I suppose the
answer must be

"they said they have a new controller unit (the whole front panel) which
holds the temperature much tighter."

Or is there anywhere to rebuild it other than Core Centrics which charges
about 10% discount off the brand new price of the GE part WB27T10276?

$188 on Amazon?

How will you KNOW that the "replacement unit" contains the desired "fix"?
I.e., does the part number change to reflect the fix? Or, do you also
need to know a *revision/version" number??

On 10/15/2015 6:13 AM, Art Todesco wrote:

Sorry, I don't have any specifics on your oven. But, about 14 years ago we
bought a Dacor built in oven. We always suspected control problems. When I
checked, there was indeed control problems. Set at 350, it would over shoot and
then undershoot 350. Calling Dacor was absolutely no help. They just kept
repeating the words on the script that industry standard allows a 25 degree

There is a whole *science* to designing good control loops. Unfortunately,
it *is* a science and many people implementing them aren't formally schooled
in that science. How you measure, where you measure, how/where you
"control/actuate", etc.

At which location in the oven do you want to have control of the temperature?
E.g., most ovens have adjustable racks that aren't there *just* to allow
you to accommodate different sized foodstuffs! The location of each wrt the
upper and lower heating elements (and, which elements are actually in use)
determines the actual conditions *at* each rack location. Placing an *extra*
something above or below can alter the heat available at a particular location.

(e.g., I bake two sheets of cookies at a time -- *knowing* that the upper and
lower sheets experience different heat profiles that must be reflected in my
baking routine)

Legacy "on/off" control systems react differently than proportional
controls (imagine trying to maintain a desired speed on the road
when your only method of speed control is to engage or disengage
the clutch with the engine running at a fixed RPMs behind a fixed
gearbox).

Is there a "transport delay" (i.e., inherent "lag") in the measurement or
control sides? I.e., if you're measuring the temperature of water
coming out of a hose *at* the hose end -- but controlling it at the
*source* end -- you can see how easily the temperature will fluctuate
(because the control doesn't know the temperature of the water until
it has traveled down the length of the hose).

Our furnace, for example, "coasts" after the demand for heat has been
removed. The furnace designers realized there is still a lot of heat
trapped *in* the furnace and lets the blower run for another minute
or so to extract that heat (and cool the furnace down). *But*, the
thermostat has already decided that the house was "warm enough" when
it stopped calling for heat!

variation. Well this one was a little worse, say maybe 30 or so. BTW, 25
degrees is ok for baking large mass things, however for small things like
cookies, etc. it means the difference between undercooked and overcooked. We

What you cook in/on also plays a role. E.g., glass "saves" you ~25F.

lived with it for 5 years. I called Dacor again and they said they have a new
controller unit (the whole front panel) which holds the temperature much
tighter. They offered it for free, but the catch is, that I had to have it done
by a so called professional and pay them. So, it cost me $100 to get what
should have been there in the 1st place. With the new control panel, it was
significantly better, but not as good as I would have liked it. Now there was a
top to bottom swing of about 14 degrees. I now have a Whirlpool in a different
house and have never measured the temperature because the baking results have
been very good.

The tighter the control (i.e., less hysteresis) the more control action
and the more "work" the controller has to do.

I'd wager most temperature control loops in appliances, HVAC thermostats,
etc. are simple bang-bang controls: temperature too low? turn on heat.
temperature too high? turn off heat. Very little "anticipatory"
(derivative) control so the system is almost always underdamped
(oscillates)

Note the same sorts of problems are present in freezers.

There are techniques that can be used to improve the control. But,
usually, customers aren't concerned enough nor willing to *pay* for them!
They'd rather be enamored with the appearance of the stainless or the
brand name on the front than the actual *performance*!

No need to overthink this thing, son. The furst step's to buy an
accurate oven thermometer.

On Friday, October 16, 2015 at 9:12:30 AM UTC-4, Colonel Edmund Burke wrote:
No need to overthink this thing, son. The furst step's to buy an
accurate oven thermometer.

I did that before I posted. And I moved it to the centre of the oven because I figure that if the self-clean function cant clean the door (which it can't), the temp at the front might not be all that representative.

The prices for this thing are all over the place, from $115 to nigh on $200!

You can get them rebuilt for between $153 and $200, which kinda makes ya think a bit.

Then I found someone who offers to rebuild them to cure various symptoms for $99 but none of the symptoms he cures are temp related?? I emailed him and he said to check the thermostat is working properly before I send mine to him. (it is new but that might not PROVE anything.

On Friday, October 16, 2015 at 4:41:21 PM UTC-4, DManzaluni wrote:
On Friday, October 16, 2015 at 9:12:30 AM UTC-4, Colonel Edmund Burke wrote:
No need to overthink this thing, son. The furst step's to buy an
accurate oven thermometer.

I did that before I posted. And I moved it to the centre of the oven because I figure that if the self-clean function cant clean the door (which it can't), the temp at the front might not be all that representative.

The prices for this thing are all over the place, from $115 to nigh on $200!

You can get them rebuilt for between $153 and $200, which kinda makes ya think a bit.

Then I found someone who offers to rebuild them to cure various symptoms for $99 but none of the symptoms he cures are temp related?? I emailed him and he said to check the thermostat is working properly before I send mine to him. (it is new but that might not PROVE anything.


The problem is figuring out if it's the electronic control or the
temp sensor. There has to be at least those two things, maybe something
else, but you would think that's all there is. Maybe you can find
details on how to test the sensor online. I would guess that it's a
thermistor and the resistance is supposed to change with temperature.

Given those prices for a new control panel vs repaired, I'd go for
the new. Even if you wind up buying a controller and sensor, it
would likely wind up less than the cost of a service call to just
replace a sensor. And a lot less than new ovens.

On 10/16/2015 1:41 PM, DManzaluni wrote:
On Friday, October 16, 2015 at 9:12:30 AM UTC-4, Colonel Edmund Burke
wrote:
No need to overthink this thing, son. The furst step's to buy an accurate
oven thermometer.

I did that before I posted. And I moved it to the centre of the oven because
I figure that if the self-clean function cant clean the door (which it
can't), the temp at the front might not be all that representative.

The prices for this thing are all over the place, from $115 to nigh on
$200!

You can get them rebuilt for between $153 and $200, which kinda makes ya
think a bit.

Then I found someone who offers to rebuild them to cure various symptoms for
$99 but none of the symptoms he cures are temp related?? I emailed him and
he said to check the thermostat is working properly before I send mine to
him. (it is new but that might not PROVE anything.

As I said up-thread, you need to understand *what* your controller is doing
before you can decide what the problem and likely cure might be.

E.g., car has dead battery. Is it alternator? voltage regulator?
corroded cable? high resistance connection? "persistent" load?
shorted plates?

The remedies for each are very different (even if they may all require you
to purchase a new battery!)