Hi,
Finishing my basement and installing a (dedicated heating zone) baseboard around most (but not all) of the perimeter. Unfortunately, I *must* cross an entry door. What's the best thing to do?
1. go over the top of the door and install bleed valves up high?
2. break some of the concrete floor and go into floor (in a PVC or other non-corrosive material) sleeve? If this method, is there any flexible tube I can put into the sleeve? I refuse to attempt to sweat copper pipe in such an awkward situation.

Just curious on what other people have done, lessons-learned, and any other pros/cons.

Thanks
Theodore.

On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 1:01:58 AM UTC-4, wrote:
Hi,
Finishing my basement and installing a (dedicated heating zone) baseboard around most (but not all) of the perimeter. Unfortunately, I *must* cross an entry door. What's the best thing to do?
1. go over the top of the door and install bleed valves up high?
2. break some of the concrete floor and go into floor (in a PVC or other non-corrosive material) sleeve? If this method, is there any flexible tube I can put into the sleeve? I refuse to attempt to sweat copper pipe in such an awkward situation.

Just curious on what other people have done, lessons-learned, and any other pros/cons.

Thanks
Theodore.

I'll leave the "under/over" question for others. However, I will comment on your reluctance to sweat copper if the "under" option is chosen.

Consider using SharkBite connectors.

http://www.sharkbite.com/

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 1:01:58 AM UTC-4,
wrote:
Hi,
Finishing my basement and installing a (dedicated heating zone)
baseboard around most (but not all) of the perimeter.
Unfortunately, I *must* cross an entry door. What's the best thing
to do?
1. go over the top of the door and install bleed valves up high?
2. break some of the concrete floor and go into floor (in a PVC or
other non-corrosive material) sleeve? If this method, is there any
flexible tube I can put into the sleeve? I refuse to attempt to
sweat copper pipe in such an awkward situation.

Just curious on what other people have done, lessons-learned, and
any other pros/cons.

Thanks
Theodore.

I'll leave the "under/over" question for others. However, I will
comment on your reluctance to sweat copper if the "under" option is
chosen.

Consider using SharkBite connectors.

http://www.sharkbite.com/

Yeah , use those pieces of crap . OK , it might have been the wrong
situation , but they used sharkbites to repair my water supply after the
city ripped it up looking for a sewer line blockage . A year or so later we
had to dig up the sidewalk again and do the repaor correctly with sweat
fittings .

--
Snag

On 09/27/2015 06:49 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 1:01:58 AM UTC-4,
wrote:
Hi,
Finishing my basement and installing a (dedicated heating zone)
baseboard around most (but not all) of the perimeter.
Unfortunately, I *must* cross an entry door. What's the best thing
to do?
1. go over the top of the door and install bleed valves up high?
2. break some of the concrete floor and go into floor (in a PVC or
other non-corrosive material) sleeve? If this method, is there any
flexible tube I can put into the sleeve? I refuse to attempt to
sweat copper pipe in such an awkward situation.

Just curious on what other people have done, lessons-learned, and
any other pros/cons.

Thanks
Theodore.

I'll leave the "under/over" question for others. However, I will
comment on your reluctance to sweat copper if the "under" option is
chosen.

Consider using SharkBite connectors.

http://www.sharkbite.com/

Yeah , use those pieces of crap . OK , it might have been the wrong
situation , but they used sharkbites to repair my water supply after the
city ripped it up looking for a sewer line blockage . A year or so later we
had to dig up the sidewalk again and do the repaor correctly with sweat
fittings .




I replaced an old waterline with PEX and sharkbite and have had zero
problems. Though it can be used within concrete there is a specific way
it needs to be wrapped to protect it. My /guess/ is the problematic
sharkbit used in concrete was either not wrapped or at least not wrapped
properly. I like the idea of pushing it through a PVV pipe though...no
breaking up concrete if a problem and no fittings underground.

On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 22:01:54 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Hi,
Finishing my basement and installing a (dedicated heating zone) baseboard around most (but not all) of the perimeter. Unfortunately, I *must* cross an entry door. What's the best thing to do?
1. go over the top of the door and install bleed valves up high?
2. break some of the concrete floor and go into floor (in a PVC or other non-corrosive material) sleeve? If this method, is there any flexible tube I can put into the sleeve? I refuse to attempt to sweat copper pipe in such an awkward situation.

Just curious on what other people have done, lessons-learned, and any other pros/cons.

Thanks
Theodore.
Put it under the floor under the door. Sweat the tubes together above
ground, then drop them in. and sweat them into the system

On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 23:49:49 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 1:01:58 AM UTC-4, wrote:
Hi,
Finishing my basement and installing a (dedicated heating zone) baseboard around most (but not all) of the perimeter. Unfortunately, I *must* cross an entry door. What's the best thing to do?
1. go over the top of the door and install bleed valves up high?
2. break some of the concrete floor and go into floor (in a PVC or other non-corrosive material) sleeve? If this method, is there any flexible tube I can put into the sleeve? I refuse to attempt to sweat copper pipe in such an awkward situation.

Just curious on what other people have done, lessons-learned, and any other pros/cons.

Thanks
Theodore.

I'll leave the "under/over" question for others. However, I will comment on your reluctance to sweat copper if the "under" option is chosen.

Consider using SharkBite connectors.

http://www.sharkbite.com/
Not for burried connection on hydronics.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 08:53:14 -0400, wrote:




I'll leave the "under/over" question for others. However, I will comment on your reluctance to sweat copper if the "under" option is chosen.

Consider using SharkBite connectors.

http://www.sharkbite.com/
Not for burried connection on hydronics.

I'd use them to connect the copper to pex above ground on both sides.
Use the pex underground as it will flex where needed to make the run.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 11:20:44 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 08:53:14 -0400, wrote:

I'll leave the "under/over" question for others. However, I will comment on your reluctance to sweat copper if the "under" option is chosen.

Consider using SharkBite connectors.

http://www.sharkbite.com/
Not for burried connection on hydronics.

I'd use them to connect the copper to pex above ground on both sides.
Use the pex underground as it will flex where needed to make the run.

PEX will also expand in freezing conditions, less chance of a pipe
bursting.

I'd use brass fittings and crimp rings or the expansion method (rent
the crimp / expansion tool)

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 08:53:14 -0400, wrote:

http://www.sharkbite.com/

Not for burried connection on hydronics.

Not a good idea to put them inside a wall, either.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 11:20:44 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 08:53:14 -0400, wrote:




I'll leave the "under/over" question for others. However, I will comment on your reluctance to sweat copper if the "under" option is chosen.

Consider using SharkBite connectors.

http://www.sharkbite.com/
Not for burried connection on hydronics.

I'd use them to connect the copper to pex above ground on both sides.
Use the pex underground as it will flex where needed to make the run.
Or just do the whole job with pex, saving all the joints and the
cost of copper.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 08:40:42 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 08:53:14 -0400, wrote:

http://www.sharkbite.com/

Not for burried connection on hydronics.

Not a good idea to put them inside a wall, either.
Inside a wall is OK according to the instructions. Underground
requires special treatment.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 15:09:21 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 08:40:42 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 08:53:14 -0400, wrote:

http://www.sharkbite.com/

Not for burried connection on hydronics.

Not a good idea to put them inside a wall, either.

Inside a wall is OK according to the instructions. Underground
requires special treatment.

Sure you _could_ do it, then maybe have sharkbite fail so you open the
wall again. My house is entirely PEX / Manifold. Easy access and no
need to open a wall again. So far in ~20 years after the house was
built. Why take the chance of closing a sharbite in a wall that was
repaired?

On 9/27/2015 7:49 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Consider using SharkBite connectors.

http://www.sharkbite.com/

Yeah , use those pieces of crap . OK , it might have been the wrong
situation , but they used sharkbites to repair my water supply after the
city ripped it up looking for a sewer line blockage . A year or so later we
had to dig up the sidewalk again and do the repaor correctly with sweat
fittings .


I've looked at the design. My gut sense (back then)
was they would not last very long. Thanks for the
field report.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
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