This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

On Tuesday, August 4, 2015 at 7:39:00 PM UTC-4, Snuffy Hub Cap McKinney wrote:
This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

check battery voltage with vehicle running at idle. it must be 13.8 volts

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy



Alternator generates AC current which is rectifiev by diodes bank.
Some times one diode goes bad(opens or short)

On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 18:38:18 -0500, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the
headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles
from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev
the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of
center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

It wouldn't be something silly like a loose belt by chance? I've
heard of
belts getting shiny and slick also. Does the heater fan do anything
unusual?


--
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 18:10:51 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy



Alternator generates AC current which is rectifiev by diodes bank.
Some times one diode goes bad(opens or short)
That is DEFINITELY not the issue, as the alternator is a (generally
anyway) 12 pole 3 phase devive, and is geares about 2:1 from the
crank, so at 500RPM idle would be turning about 1000RPM, making about
60Hz power (if my math is anywhere close to correct) so any cycling
would be in the 1/60th second range -a very high frequency flicker,
not a surge with a 1 second period.

wrote:
On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 18:10:51 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy



Alternator generates AC current which is rectifiev by diodes bank.
Some times one diode goes bad(opens or short)
That is DEFINITELY not the issue, as the alternator is a (generally
anyway) 12 pole 3 phase devive, and is geares about 2:1 from the
crank, so at 500RPM idle would be turning about 1000RPM, making about
60Hz power (if my math is anywhere close to correct) so any cycling
would be in the 1/60th second range -a very high frequency flicker,
not a surge with a 1 second period.

You wouldn't know until you see the problem with your own eyes.
There are many things one would not believe until one sees one
in person.

On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 19:11:55 -0500, "Dean Hoffman"
wrote:

On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 18:38:18 -0500, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the
headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles
from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev
the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of
center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

It wouldn't be something silly like a loose belt by chance? I've
heard of
belts getting shiny and slick also. Does the heater fan do anything
unusual?
You can be about 90%+ shure the alternator will need replacing within
a month or so, and the unsteady lights at idle will go away when the
alternator is replaced.
How many miles are on this beasty, and how old?? Is it the old
Aeroscare?

I had the same problem on my '89 - replaced the regulator - no joy.
Replaced the alternator - problem fixed.. I managed to pick up a good
recently replaced rebuild at the wreckers for $30 (about 20 years ago)

On Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy



Could be worn out/sticking brushes in the alternator.

On 8/4/2015 7:00 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy



How old is the car? That was not unusual on older cars.

Well, he did say he cleaned the connections on the REGULATOR... That's
either a clue or indication of cluelessness

wrote in message news
On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 19:11:55 -0500, "Dean Hoffman"
wrote:

On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 18:38:18 -0500, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the
headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles
from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev
the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of
center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

It wouldn't be something silly like a loose belt by chance? I've
heard of
belts getting shiny and slick also. Does the heater fan do anything
unusual?
You can be about 90%+ shure the alternator will need replacing within
a month or so, and the unsteady lights at idle will go away when the
alternator is replaced.
How many miles are on this beasty, and how old?? Is it the old
Aeroscare?

I had the same problem on my '89 - replaced the regulator - no joy.
Replaced the alternator - problem fixed.. I managed to pick up a good
recently replaced rebuild at the wreckers for $30 (about 20 years ago)

Yep, the same one. About 140K miles. Is that something that can be checked out before installing a new one? They ain't cheap.

I had the same problem on my '89 - replaced the regulator - no joy.
Replaced the alternator - problem fixed.. I managed to pick up a good
recently replaced rebuild at the wreckers for $30 (about 20 years ago)

Yep, the same one. About 140K miles. Is that something that can be checked out before installing a new one? They ain't cheap.

check voltage at batery at idle, it should be 13.8 volts and solidly .......

probably a bad alternator

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?

On Tuesday, August 4, 2015 at 11:19:17 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery..

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?



I was wondering the same thing because many vehicles have an tiny idle speed motor which moves the throttle as needed like when the AC is switched on and the idle speed increases. I'd pull the air cleaner so I could see the throttle body to see if the throttle is being moved by the idle speed control motor. The engine control computer could be affected by a dirty mass air flow sensor which could cause the idle speed fluctuation. (¬€¿Â¬)

[8~{} Uncle Motor Monster

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 00:08:59 -0700 (PDT), Uncle
Monster wrote:

On Tuesday, August 4, 2015 at 11:19:17 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?



I was wondering the same thing because many vehicles have an tiny idle speed motor which moves the throttle as needed like when the AC is switched on and the idle speed increases. I'd pull the air cleaner so I could see the throttle body to see if the throttle is being moved by the idle speed control motor. The engine control computer could be affected by a dirty mass air flow sensor which could cause the idle speed fluctuation. (¬?¬)

I dont' think that had mass airflow sensors or ECCs when they had
regulators, but otherwise, a good idea.

[8~{} Uncle Motor Monster

On Wednesday, August 5, 2015 at 2:48:16 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 00:08:59 -0700 (PDT), Uncle
Monster wrote:

On Tuesday, August 4, 2015 at 11:19:17 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?



I was wondering the same thing because many vehicles have an tiny idle speed motor which moves the throttle as needed like when the AC is switched on and the idle speed increases. I'd pull the air cleaner so I could see the throttle body to see if the throttle is being moved by the idle speed control motor. The engine control computer could be affected by a dirty mass air flow sensor which could cause the idle speed fluctuation. (¬?¬)

I dont' think that had mass airflow sensors or ECCs when they had
regulators, but otherwise, a good idea.

Well heck, the OP did't mention the year and model of his vehicle. I just assumed it was built in this century. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[8~{} Uncle Assuming Monster

Uncle Monster brought next idea :
On Wednesday, August 5, 2015 at 2:48:16 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 00:08:59 -0700 (PDT), Uncle
Monster wrote:

On Tuesday, August 4, 2015 at 11:19:17 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the
headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles
from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev
the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center,
slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?



I was wondering the same thing because many vehicles have an tiny idle
speed motor which moves the throttle as needed like when the AC is switched
on and the idle speed increases. I'd pull the air cleaner so I could see
the throttle body to see if the throttle is being moved by the idle speed
control motor. The engine control computer could be affected by a dirty
mass air flow sensor which could cause the idle speed fluctuation. (¬?¬)

I dont' think that had mass airflow sensors or ECCs when they had
regulators, but otherwise, a good idea.

Well heck, the OP did't mention the year and model of his vehicle. I just
assumed it was built in this century. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[8~{} Uncle Assuming Monster

It seems to have an Ampmeter and are you old enough to remember when
cars had them? :-Z

--
John G Sydney.

On Wednesday, August 5, 2015 at 4:11:55 AM UTC-5, John G wrote:
Uncle Monster brought next idea :
On Wednesday, August 5, 2015 at 2:48:16 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 00:08:59 -0700 (PDT), Uncle
Monster wrote:

On Tuesday, August 4, 2015 at 11:19:17 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the
headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles
from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev
the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center,
slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?



I was wondering the same thing because many vehicles have an tiny idle
speed motor which moves the throttle as needed like when the AC is switched
on and the idle speed increases. I'd pull the air cleaner so I could see
the throttle body to see if the throttle is being moved by the idle speed
control motor. The engine control computer could be affected by a dirty
mass air flow sensor which could cause the idle speed fluctuation. (¬?¬)

I dont' think that had mass airflow sensors or ECCs when they had
regulators, but otherwise, a good idea.

Well heck, the OP did't mention the year and model of his vehicle. I just
assumed it was built in this century. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[8~{} Uncle Assuming Monster

It seems to have an Ampmeter and are you old enough to remember when
cars had them? :-Z

--
John G Sydney.

My fuel injected SUV has an ammeter in the dashboard. ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°

[8~{} Uncle Amp Monster

On 8/4/2015 10:59 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I had the same problem on my '89 - replaced the regulator - no joy.
Replaced the alternator - problem fixed.. I managed to pick up a good
recently replaced rebuild at the wreckers for $30 (about 20 years ago)

Yep, the same one. About 140K miles. Is that something that can be checked out before installing a new one? They ain't cheap.



In my part of the world, some Advance Auto Parts
And Battery have alternator testers. Some even
have a man who knows how to do the test.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

"micky" wrote in message ...
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?

RPM is steady. Oscillating lights happens at slow idle. If I increase idle speed just a little with accelerator, lights are steady.

On Wednesday, August 5, 2015 at 12:05:59 PM UTC-5, Snuffy Hub Cap McKinney wrote:
"micky" wrote in message ...
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?

RPM is steady. Oscillating lights happens at slow idle. If I increase idle speed just a little with accelerator, lights are steady.

In my 90 Dodge van, the voltage regulator is built into the engine control computer. You haven't written what kind of vehicle you own. à²*€¿à²*

[8~{} Uncle Battery Monster

On Tue, 4 Aug 2015 19:59:27 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

wrote in message news
On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 19:11:55 -0500, "Dean Hoffman"
wrote:

On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 18:38:18 -0500, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the
headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles
from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev
the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of
center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

It wouldn't be something silly like a loose belt by chance? I've
heard of
belts getting shiny and slick also. Does the heater fan do anything
unusual?
You can be about 90%+ shure the alternator will need replacing within
a month or so, and the unsteady lights at idle will go away when the
alternator is replaced.
How many miles are on this beasty, and how old?? Is it the old
Aeroscare?

I had the same problem on my '89 - replaced the regulator - no joy.
Replaced the alternator - problem fixed.. I managed to pick up a good
recently replaced rebuild at the wreckers for $30 (about 20 years ago)

Yep, the same one. About 140K miles. Is that something that can be checked out before installing a new one? They ain't cheap.

You can check to see if it is working - but it can be working and
still "surge". A good analog voltmeter connected to the output of the
alternator will show if the voltage is fluctuating.

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 10:05:16 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

"micky" wrote in message ...
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?

RPM is steady. Oscillating lights happens at slow idle. If I increase idle speed just a little with accelerator, lights are steady.

Even at steady RPM, the reguator relay goes in and out, but I really
don't know at what rates. IIRC a generator needs a regulator with 3
relays, and an alternator needs 2 relays.

One of the two limits how much current goes to the field winding, but
is that only for generators?

Do you have a wife with another car. I always wanted a wife with a
pickup truck, but I coudlnt' find one. What's the worst that can
happen, youll break down onthe way to work adn she'll have to pick you
up and take you to work and the car will sit there until you can get a
new alternator. Can you get one right away and replace it wherever the
car dies, or would you have to be towed?

What's the voltage of the alternator, while the lights oscillate.
While they say 13.6 is what it should put out, and maybe lightbulbs are
designed for that voltage, really anything over 12 6 should charge the
battery a little. Or say over 12.7. You said your ammeter shows
slight charging. If the alternator will to completely fail, you could
drive more than a day I'll bet if you have a fully charged battery.
Old cars start easily and cars don't need too much current to run.

I once drove from NYC to Chicago to Indianposlis to the Pa. Turnpike
near Pittsburgh. When I left NY, maybe by the time I got to Ohio or
earlier, the headlights were dim, but as I usually do, I igonred the
problem. The rest of the car ran well and most of my driving was in the
day time.**. I drove to Chicago and around there for 2 or 3 days, Indy
for a couple day, and just as I got to the big gas station near the
entirance to the Pa. Turnpike (after a trip of 1400+ miles.) the car
stalled and woudn't start. I opened the hood and the fan belt that
drove the alternatas literally hanging on by a thread. Of course a
fanbelt thread is thicker than sewing thread, maybe half a millimeter.

But the belt was no longer tight enugh to drive the alternator and I had
been running on the battery for at least a couple hundred miles, and
that was in the dark and again I'd noticed that the headlights weren't
very bright. But the road had been well marked and I coudl follow the
car in front of me, etc. . IIRC, I had a fan belt in my trunk, that I
had taken from a junk yard car like mine, and I put that on, and after I
got some food I got the gas station guy to come the 100 feet to my car
with his portable jumping thing, and I'm not even sure he charged me,
but he started me and I started driving east and charging the battery.
And that was the end of the story.


Now I was in my 20's and people our age don't live like this, but otoh,
if I were just drivign around town, and I had someone to come and get
me, even the number of a taxi-company. I'd still do it that way.
Because you don't yet know that the alternator is bad or that you'll
*have* to replace it before the car fails permanently for some other
reason.

In the old days the oil light would flicker on and off at idle and that
was normal, even though it's a lot more imporant that a few little light
bulbs.

After serious thinking micky wrote :
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 10:05:16 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

"micky" wrote in message
...
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights
on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal
to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine
slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center,
slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?

RPM is steady. Oscillating lights happens at slow idle. If I increase idle
speed just a little with accelerator, lights are steady.

Even at steady RPM, the reguator relay goes in and out, but I really
don't know at what rates. IIRC a generator needs a regulator with 3
relays, and an alternator needs 2 relays.

One of the two limits how much current goes to the field winding, but
is that only for generators?

Do you have a wife with another car. I always wanted a wife with a
pickup truck, but I coudlnt' find one. What's the worst that can
happen, youll break down onthe way to work adn she'll have to pick you
up and take you to work and the car will sit there until you can get a
new alternator. Can you get one right away and replace it wherever the
car dies, or would you have to be towed?

What's the voltage of the alternator, while the lights oscillate.
While they say 13.6 is what it should put out, and maybe lightbulbs are
designed for that voltage, really anything over 12 6 should charge the
battery a little. Or say over 12.7. You said your ammeter shows
slight charging. If the alternator will to completely fail, you could
drive more than a day I'll bet if you have a fully charged battery.
Old cars start easily and cars don't need too much current to run.

I once drove from NYC to Chicago to Indianposlis to the Pa. Turnpike
near Pittsburgh. When I left NY, maybe by the time I got to Ohio or
earlier, the headlights were dim, but as I usually do, I igonred the
problem. The rest of the car ran well and most of my driving was in the
day time.**. I drove to Chicago and around there for 2 or 3 days, Indy
for a couple day, and just as I got to the big gas station near the
entirance to the Pa. Turnpike (after a trip of 1400+ miles.) the car
stalled and woudn't start. I opened the hood and the fan belt that
drove the alternatas literally hanging on by a thread. Of course a
fanbelt thread is thicker than sewing thread, maybe half a millimeter.

But the belt was no longer tight enugh to drive the alternator and I had
been running on the battery for at least a couple hundred miles, and
that was in the dark and again I'd noticed that the headlights weren't
very bright. But the road had been well marked and I coudl follow the
car in front of me, etc. . IIRC, I had a fan belt in my trunk, that I
had taken from a junk yard car like mine, and I put that on, and after I
got some food I got the gas station guy to come the 100 feet to my car
with his portable jumping thing, and I'm not even sure he charged me,
but he started me and I started driving east and charging the battery.
And that was the end of the story.


Now I was in my 20's and people our age don't live like this, but otoh,
if I were just drivign around town, and I had someone to come and get
me, even the number of a taxi-company. I'd still do it that way.
Because you don't yet know that the alternator is bad or that you'll
*have* to replace it before the car fails permanently for some other
reason.

In the old days the oil light would flicker on and off at idle and that
was normal, even though it's a lot more imporant that a few little light
bulbs.

I'm not sure but to my long memory Alternators have had solidstate
regulators and no relays since they were invented. :-Z

--
John G Sydney.

wrote in message ...
On Tue, 4 Aug 2015 19:59:27 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

wrote in message news
On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 19:11:55 -0500, "Dean Hoffman"
wrote:

On Tue, 04 Aug 2015 18:38:18 -0500, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the
headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles
from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev
the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of
center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

It wouldn't be something silly like a loose belt by chance? I've
heard of
belts getting shiny and slick also. Does the heater fan do anything
unusual?
You can be about 90%+ shure the alternator will need replacing within
a month or so, and the unsteady lights at idle will go away when the
alternator is replaced.
How many miles are on this beasty, and how old?? Is it the old
Aeroscare?

I had the same problem on my '89 - replaced the regulator - no joy.
Replaced the alternator - problem fixed.. I managed to pick up a good
recently replaced rebuild at the wreckers for $30 (about 20 years ago)

Yep, the same one. About 140K miles. Is that something that can be checked out before installing a new one? They ain't cheap.

You can check to see if it is working - but it can be working and
still "surge". A good analog voltmeter connected to the output of the
alternator will show if the voltage is fluctuating.

OK, will check it tonight. Yesterday while idling during the day, I noticed the ammeter oscillating. If I kicked the gas and released it, the oscillation stopped. Will check the belt also.

John G wrote in
:

After serious thinking micky wrote :
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 10:05:16 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

"micky" wrote in message
...
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy
\"Hub Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the
headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness
cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a
second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal
steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of
center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I
removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including
regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing
battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?

RPM is steady. Oscillating lights happens at slow idle. If I
increase idle speed just a little with accelerator, lights are
steady.

Even at steady RPM, the reguator relay goes in and out, but I really
don't know at what rates. IIRC a generator needs a regulator with 3
relays, and an alternator needs 2 relays.

One of the two limits how much current goes to the field winding,
but
is that only for generators?

Do you have a wife with another car. I always wanted a wife with a
pickup truck, but I coudlnt' find one. What's the worst that can
happen, youll break down onthe way to work adn she'll have to pick
you up and take you to work and the car will sit there until you can
get a new alternator. Can you get one right away and replace it
wherever the car dies, or would you have to be towed?

What's the voltage of the alternator, while the lights oscillate.
While they say 13.6 is what it should put out, and maybe lightbulbs
are designed for that voltage, really anything over 12 6 should
charge the battery a little. Or say over 12.7. You said your
ammeter shows slight charging. If the alternator will to completely
fail, you could drive more than a day I'll bet if you have a fully
charged battery. Old cars start easily and cars don't need too much
current to run.

I once drove from NYC to Chicago to Indianposlis to the Pa. Turnpike
near Pittsburgh. When I left NY, maybe by the time I got to Ohio
or earlier, the headlights were dim, but as I usually do, I igonred
the problem. The rest of the car ran well and most of my driving was
in the day time.**. I drove to Chicago and around there for 2 or 3
days, Indy for a couple day, and just as I got to the big gas station
near the entirance to the Pa. Turnpike (after a trip of 1400+ miles.)
the car stalled and woudn't start. I opened the hood and the fan
belt that drove the alternatas literally hanging on by a thread. Of
course a fanbelt thread is thicker than sewing thread, maybe half a
millimeter.

But the belt was no longer tight enugh to drive the alternator and I
had been running on the battery for at least a couple hundred miles,
and that was in the dark and again I'd noticed that the headlights
weren't very bright. But the road had been well marked and I coudl
follow the car in front of me, etc. . IIRC, I had a fan belt in my
trunk, that I had taken from a junk yard car like mine, and I put
that on, and after I got some food I got the gas station guy to come
the 100 feet to my car with his portable jumping thing, and I'm not
even sure he charged me, but he started me and I started driving east
and charging the battery. And that was the end of the story.


Now I was in my 20's and people our age don't live like this, but
otoh, if I were just drivign around town, and I had someone to come
and get me, even the number of a taxi-company. I'd still do it that
way. Because you don't yet know that the alternator is bad or that
you'll *have* to replace it before the car fails permanently for some
other reason.

In the old days the oil light would flicker on and off at idle and
that was normal, even though it's a lot more imporant that a few
little light bulbs.

I'm not sure but to my long memory Alternators have had solidstate
regulators and no relays since they were invented. :-Z


alternators been around since the 60s so not always electronic volt
controls. KB

Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Wednesday, August 5, 2015 at 2:48:16 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 00:08:59 -0700 (PDT), Uncle
Monster wrote:

On Tuesday, August 4, 2015 at 11:19:17 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?



I was wondering the same thing because many vehicles have an tiny idle speed motor which moves the throttle as needed like when the AC is switched on and the idle speed increases. I'd pull the air cleaner so I could see the throttle body to see if the throttle is being moved by the idle speed control motor. The engine control computer could be affected by a dirty mass air flow sensor which could cause the idle speed fluctuation. (¬?¬)

I dont' think that had mass airflow sensors or ECCs when they had
regulators, but otherwise, a good idea.

Well heck, the OP did't mention the year and model of his vehicle. I just assumed it was built in this century. ¯\_(?)_/¯

[8~{} Uncle Assuming Monster

Bingo, it could be his garden tractor.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 06 Aug 2015 16:26:00 +1000, John G
wrote:



I'm not sure but to my long memory Alternators have had solidstate
regulators and no relays since they were invented. :-Z

You're definitely wrong about that. Atlternators made their first
showing in large numbers maybe in 1965 or about then and all of them had
relay-based regulators, with two of them, for several years. Then some
had relay-less regulators within the alternators, but they made cars
with both styles for a while.

I guess I was forgetting sold-state regulators and assuming no matter
what year his car is, he had relays. My mistake. (I don't know if
they ever made external soldi-state regulators.)

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 06 Aug 2015 16:26:00 +1000, John G
wrote:


I'm not sure but to my long memory Alternators have had solidstate
regulators and no relays since they were invented. :-Z

Maybe you were thinking about the diodes in the alternator**. If they
had had to depend on diode tubes, whether glass or metal, instead of
semi-conductor diodes, I don't think alternators would have been
possible.

**For the youngun's here, if there are any, generatos had a commutator
and generated DC current. Alternators had two rings for the two
brushes, no commutator, and generated alternating current, hence the
name, and used diodes to turn it into DC.

On Thu, 06 Aug 2015 02:17:25 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 10:05:16 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

"micky" wrote in message ...
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?

RPM is steady. Oscillating lights happens at slow idle. If I increase idle speed just a little with accelerator, lights are steady.

Even at steady RPM, the reguator relay goes in and out, but I really
don't know at what rates. IIRC a generator needs a regulator with 3
relays, and an alternator needs 2 relays.

One of the two limits how much current goes to the field winding, but
is that only for generators?

There are no relays in toda's regulators. They are all electronic.
Some regulate the feild with a PWM, others just switch resistance like
the old relat type.

Generators needed to control maximum current as well as maximum
voltage, AND disconnect from the battery when not charging(cutout) so
the generator didn't "motor" and draw all the power out of the battery

Do you have a wife with another car. I always wanted a wife with a
pickup truck, but I coudlnt' find one. What's the worst that can
happen, youll break down onthe way to work adn she'll have to pick you
up and take you to work and the car will sit there until you can get a
new alternator. Can you get one right away and replace it wherever the
car dies, or would you have to be towed?

What's the voltage of the alternator, while the lights oscillate.
While they say 13.6 is what it should put out, and maybe lightbulbs are
designed for that voltage, really anything over 12 6 should charge the
battery a little. Or say over 12.7. You said your ammeter shows
slight charging. If the alternator will to completely fail, you could
drive more than a day I'll bet if you have a fully charged battery.
Old cars start easily and cars don't need too much current to run.

I once drove from NYC to Chicago to Indianposlis to the Pa. Turnpike
near Pittsburgh. When I left NY, maybe by the time I got to Ohio or
earlier, the headlights were dim, but as I usually do, I igonred the
problem. The rest of the car ran well and most of my driving was in the
day time.**. I drove to Chicago and around there for 2 or 3 days, Indy
for a couple day, and just as I got to the big gas station near the
entirance to the Pa. Turnpike (after a trip of 1400+ miles.) the car
stalled and woudn't start. I opened the hood and the fan belt that
drove the alternatas literally hanging on by a thread. Of course a
fanbelt thread is thicker than sewing thread, maybe half a millimeter.

But the belt was no longer tight enugh to drive the alternator and I had
been running on the battery for at least a couple hundred miles, and
that was in the dark and again I'd noticed that the headlights weren't
very bright. But the road had been well marked and I coudl follow the
car in front of me, etc. . IIRC, I had a fan belt in my trunk, that I
had taken from a junk yard car like mine, and I put that on, and after I
got some food I got the gas station guy to come the 100 feet to my car
with his portable jumping thing, and I'm not even sure he charged me,
but he started me and I started driving east and charging the battery.
And that was the end of the story.


Now I was in my 20's and people our age don't live like this, but otoh,
if I were just drivign around town, and I had someone to come and get
me, even the number of a taxi-company. I'd still do it that way.
Because you don't yet know that the alternator is bad or that you'll
*have* to replace it before the car fails permanently for some other
reason.

In the old days the oil light would flicker on and off at idle and that
was normal, even though it's a lot more imporant that a few little light
bulbs.

On Thu, 06 Aug 2015 16:26:00 +1000, John G wrote:

After serious thinking micky wrote :
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 Aug 2015 10:05:16 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

"micky" wrote in message
...
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 4 Aug 2015 16:38:18 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub
Cap\" McKinney" wrote:

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights
on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal
to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine
slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center,
slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Do you have a tachometer? Does the RPM oscillate?

RPM is steady. Oscillating lights happens at slow idle. If I increase idle
speed just a little with accelerator, lights are steady.

Even at steady RPM, the reguator relay goes in and out, but I really
don't know at what rates. IIRC a generator needs a regulator with 3
relays, and an alternator needs 2 relays.

One of the two limits how much current goes to the field winding, but
is that only for generators?

Do you have a wife with another car. I always wanted a wife with a
pickup truck, but I coudlnt' find one. What's the worst that can
happen, youll break down onthe way to work adn she'll have to pick you
up and take you to work and the car will sit there until you can get a
new alternator. Can you get one right away and replace it wherever the
car dies, or would you have to be towed?

What's the voltage of the alternator, while the lights oscillate.
While they say 13.6 is what it should put out, and maybe lightbulbs are
designed for that voltage, really anything over 12 6 should charge the
battery a little. Or say over 12.7. You said your ammeter shows
slight charging. If the alternator will to completely fail, you could
drive more than a day I'll bet if you have a fully charged battery.
Old cars start easily and cars don't need too much current to run.

I once drove from NYC to Chicago to Indianposlis to the Pa. Turnpike
near Pittsburgh. When I left NY, maybe by the time I got to Ohio or
earlier, the headlights were dim, but as I usually do, I igonred the
problem. The rest of the car ran well and most of my driving was in the
day time.**. I drove to Chicago and around there for 2 or 3 days, Indy
for a couple day, and just as I got to the big gas station near the
entirance to the Pa. Turnpike (after a trip of 1400+ miles.) the car
stalled and woudn't start. I opened the hood and the fan belt that
drove the alternatas literally hanging on by a thread. Of course a
fanbelt thread is thicker than sewing thread, maybe half a millimeter.

But the belt was no longer tight enugh to drive the alternator and I had
been running on the battery for at least a couple hundred miles, and
that was in the dark and again I'd noticed that the headlights weren't
very bright. But the road had been well marked and I coudl follow the
car in front of me, etc. . IIRC, I had a fan belt in my trunk, that I
had taken from a junk yard car like mine, and I put that on, and after I
got some food I got the gas station guy to come the 100 feet to my car
with his portable jumping thing, and I'm not even sure he charged me,
but he started me and I started driving east and charging the battery.
And that was the end of the story.


Now I was in my 20's and people our age don't live like this, but otoh,
if I were just drivign around town, and I had someone to come and get
me, even the number of a taxi-company. I'd still do it that way.
Because you don't yet know that the alternator is bad or that you'll
*have* to replace it before the car fails permanently for some other
reason.

In the old days the oil light would flicker on and off at idle and that
was normal, even though it's a lot more imporant that a few little light
bulbs.

I'm not sure but to my long memory Alternators have had solidstate
regulators and no relays since they were invented. :-Z
Not quite since they were invented - but shortly after.
Alternators became standard in the early sixties, and Ford and GM were
still using electromechanical regulators on their alternator systems
up to 1978-79. Mazda still used some as late as at least 1981 and
Toyota untill 1986. Chrysler used then till about 1979.

On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 5:16:17 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 06 Aug 2015 16:26:00 +1000, John G
wrote:



I'm not sure but to my long memory Alternators have had solidstate
regulators and no relays since they were invented. :-Z

You're definitely wrong about that. Atlternators made their first
showing in large numbers maybe in 1965 or about then and all of them had
relay-based regulators, with two of them, for several years. Then some
had relay-less regulators within the alternators, but they made cars
with both styles for a while.

I guess I was forgetting sold-state regulators and assuming no matter
what year his car is, he had relays. My mistake. (I don't know if
they ever made external soldi-state regulators.)

Chrysler Corp. vehicles had a transistorized voltage regulator on the firewall. They were pretty reliable. Here's a link to eBay that shows both mechanical and solid state regulators for older Mopar vehicles. My 89 Dodge pickup had the voltage regulator built into the engine control computer. ^_^

http://preview.tinyurl.com/nevufo8

[8~{} Uncle Mopar Monster

On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 5:21:25 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:

Maybe you were thinking about the diodes in the alternator**. If they
had had to depend on diode tubes, whether glass or metal, instead of
semi-conductor diodes, I don't think alternators would have been
possible.


My dad's radio in his '60 Caddy had tubes...great sound for the time.

On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 5:21:25 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:

Maybe you were thinking about the diodes in the alternator**. If they
had had to depend on diode tubes, whether glass or metal, instead of
semi-conductor diodes, I don't think alternators would have been
possible.

....and before silicon we had selenium: http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/...psxt2tpfbj.jpg

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message
...

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights
on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to
slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine
slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center,
slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy


I had the same problem with my eyes; they kept going round and round, like
the wheels on the bus.

On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 8:22:35 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 5:21:25 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:

Maybe you were thinking about the diodes in the alternator**. If they
had had to depend on diode tubes, whether glass or metal, instead of
semi-conductor diodes, I don't think alternators would have been
possible.

...and before silicon we had selenium: http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/...psxt2tpfbj.jpg

That picture brings back memories. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Diod Monster

On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 9:26:27 AM UTC-5, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 8:22:35 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 5:21:25 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:

Maybe you were thinking about the diodes in the alternator**. If they
had had to depend on diode tubes, whether glass or metal, instead of
semi-conductor diodes, I don't think alternators would have been
possible.

...and before silicon we had selenium: http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/...psxt2tpfbj.jpg

That picture brings back memories. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Diode Monster

My dad had an RCA "beach radio" like this: http://www.tv-boxes.com/radios/rca-bp55.jpg
It had 2 large 6 volt batteries (carbon/zinc but motorcycle-sized) and one smaller 18 volt?
I thought you were a *hep-toad*? ༼ à²*ل͟ರೃ ༽

On Fri, 7 Aug 2015 07:19:54 -0700, "Colon Edmud Jackass Burchese of
Ladyboise, Idaho" wrote:

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message
...

This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights
on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to
slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine
slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center,
slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and
cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts
when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy

Yer alternator's greeked.


I had the same problem with my eyes; they kept going round and round, like
the wheels on the bus.

Just say NO to drugz, Coloon! LOLOK

On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 5:00:53 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Bingo, it could be his garden tractor.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

In which case it might have neither a generator nor alternator, but instead a magneto.

On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 10:05:12 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 9:26:27 AM UTC-5, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, August 7, 2015 at 8:22:35 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 5:21:25 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:

Maybe you were thinking about the diodes in the alternator**. If they
had had to depend on diode tubes, whether glass or metal, instead of
semi-conductor diodes, I don't think alternators would have been
possible.

...and before silicon we had selenium: http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/...psxt2tpfbj.jpg

That picture brings back memories. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Diode Monster

My dad had an RCA "beach radio" like this: http://www.tv-boxes.com/radios/rca-bp55.jpg
It had 2 large 6 volt batteries (carbon/zinc but motorcycle-sized) and one smaller 18 volt?
I thought you were a *hep-toad*? ༼ à²*ل͟ರೃ ༽

Well, you're either referring to iNARTE or the fact that "heptoad" is an anagram of "pothead". I'm not associated with iNARTE and I can assure you that I'm not a pothead. In fact I've never smoked anything legal or illegal, I'm horribly allergic to the crap that people smoke. ٩(͡�̯͡�)۶

[8~{} Uncle Sneeze Monster

Sorry if I missed it, but can an alternator be tested with a VOM?

Last time I had the auto parts place test one, they pinpointed the alternator. Bought it, had a mechanic check it out, also said it was the alternator, they replaced it and 2 weeks later same problem. Turned out to be bad connections. Big unnecessary expense.

Would rather TS it myself as much as I can.


"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
This just started.... or at least I just noticed it. With the headlights on dim and engine warmed up and idling, the brightness cycles from normal to slightly dim. Cycle time is around a second. When I rev the engine slightly, they return to normal steady brightness.

When running with or without lights, the ammeter is just right of center, slightly charging, in the normal position.

I don't suspect a connection -- within the last 2 months, I removed and cleaned all the battery connections, including regulator and other parts when I was fixing a grounding issue.

Battery cranks start just fine. No other indications of failing battery.

Thanks folks,

Snuffy