So the time has come to begin on the kitchen ... and the place to start is
obviously at the bottom . I've checked out the web for info on footings for
the "cellar" area , and have a good idea of the width needed to support the
load according to our soil type (packs concrete-hard if you look sideways at
it) but I'm not clear on how thick they need to be . I'll be reinforcing
with 3/8 rebar , and pouring them 12 inches wide . They'll be supporting a
cinder block wall 8 feet tall and they will be the support for the center
section of the 24' double 2x12 main beams . The entire footing will be below
the frost line even allowing for the slope of the land . I'll be using a
1:3:3 mix , done on site . Gotta justify that cement mixer I just ordered
....
I'm thinking 6" should be thick enough , considering they'll be under
block wall and reinforced . But I don't know , and haven't found any info on
how to figure that .
--
Snag

On Thu, 23 Jul 2015 13:23:06 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

So the time has come to begin on the kitchen ... and the place to start is
obviously at the bottom . I've checked out the web for info on footings for
the "cellar" area , and have a good idea of the width needed to support the
load according to our soil type (packs concrete-hard if you look sideways at
it) but I'm not clear on how thick they need to be . I'll be reinforcing
with 3/8 rebar , and pouring them 12 inches wide . They'll be supporting a
cinder block wall 8 feet tall and they will be the support for the center
section of the 24' double 2x12 main beams . The entire footing will be below
the frost line even allowing for the slope of the land . I'll be using a
1:3:3 mix , done on site . Gotta justify that cement mixer I just ordered
...
I'm thinking 6" should be thick enough , considering they'll be under
block wall and reinforced . But I don't know , and haven't found any info on
how to figure that .

I don't know the answer, but when Bubba and I built my patio cover,
the permit office gave me the minimum footer sizes for three columns
(Spanish barrel style roof) . We doubled the footer size. Depth and
width or near about so. Used a 4X10? laminated beam 22' long.

Oren wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2015 13:23:06 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

So the time has come to begin on the kitchen ... and the place to
start is obviously at the bottom . I've checked out the web for info
on footings for the "cellar" area , and have a good idea of the
width needed to support the load according to our soil type (packs
concrete-hard if you look sideways at it) but I'm not clear on how
thick they need to be . I'll be reinforcing with 3/8 rebar , and
pouring them 12 inches wide . They'll be supporting a cinder block
wall 8 feet tall and they will be the support for the center section
of the 24' double 2x12 main beams . The entire footing will be below
the frost line even allowing for the slope of the land . I'll be
using a 1:3:3 mix , done on site . Gotta justify that cement mixer
I just ordered ... I'm thinking 6" should be thick enough ,
considering they'll be under block wall and reinforced . But I don't
know , and haven't found any info on how to figure that .

I don't know the answer, but when Bubba and I built my patio cover,
the permit office gave me the minimum footer sizes for three columns
(Spanish barrel style roof) . We doubled the footer size. Depth and
width or near about so. Used a 4X10? laminated beam 22' long.

I did a little more digging , found one web site that called for 150mm
minimum , which is about 6" . That should work out OK here but I might make
them a little wider and use the rewire I have instead of buying rebar . I'm
once again getting into new territory here , I've never laid block before .
I have done a little brick work , and didn't much like it - I don't expect
this to be a picnic either . I do have a neighbor that did it for a living
that has offered his help , if he can give me pointers I'll be OK - he's
kinda crippled up and I don't expect much actual physical labor from him .

--
Snag

Code requires 2 #5 rebars in footings. I would consider 16" wide for an
8" block wall as minimum. The block should be rebar pinned to the
footing on 4' centers. Hand batched concrete is typically
1portland:3sand:5stone mixture.

On 7/23/2015 1:23 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
So the time has come to begin on the kitchen ... and the place to start is
obviously at the bottom . I've checked out the web for info on footings for
the "cellar" area , and have a good idea of the width needed to support the
load according to our soil type (packs concrete-hard if you look sideways at
it) but I'm not clear on how thick they need to be . I'll be reinforcing
with 3/8 rebar , and pouring them 12 inches wide . They'll be supporting a
cinder block wall 8 feet tall and they will be the support for the center
section of the 24' double 2x12 main beams . The entire footing will be below
the frost line even allowing for the slope of the land . I'll be using a
1:3:3 mix , done on site . Gotta justify that cement mixer I just ordered
...
I'm thinking 6" should be thick enough , considering they'll be under
block wall and reinforced . But I don't know , and haven't found any info on
how to figure that .

On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 6:55:15 AM UTC-4, DanG wrote:
Code requires 2 #5 rebars in footings. I would consider 16" wide for an
8" block wall as minimum. The block should be rebar pinned to the
footing on 4' centers. Hand batched concrete is typically
1portland:3sand:5stone mixture.

On 7/23/2015 1:23 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
So the time has come to begin on the kitchen ... and the place to start is
obviously at the bottom . I've checked out the web for info on footings for
the "cellar" area , and have a good idea of the width needed to support the
load according to our soil type (packs concrete-hard if you look sideways at
it) but I'm not clear on how thick they need to be . I'll be reinforcing
with 3/8 rebar , and pouring them 12 inches wide . They'll be supporting a
cinder block wall 8 feet tall and they will be the support for the center
section of the 24' double 2x12 main beams . The entire footing will be below
the frost line even allowing for the slope of the land . I'll be using a
1:3:3 mix , done on site . Gotta justify that cement mixer I just ordered
...
I'm thinking 6" should be thick enough , considering they'll be under
block wall and reinforced . But I don't know , and haven't found any info on
how to figure that .


check with your building inspector because its really up to him/

you are getting a building permit?

and dont forget anyunderground sewer lines.

adding square footage might require a main service panel upgrade.

and if theres any other issues the building inspector will be looking for them.

like storm water runoff, around here that can require the installation of dry wells for all downspout drains

bob haller wrote:
On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 6:55:15 AM UTC-4, DanG wrote:
Code requires 2 #5 rebars in footings. I would consider 16" wide
for an 8" block wall as minimum. The block should be rebar pinned
to the footing on 4' centers. Hand batched concrete is typically
1portland:3sand:5stone mixture.

On 7/23/2015 1:23 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
So the time has come to begin on the kitchen ... and the place
to start is obviously at the bottom . I've checked out the web for
info on footings for the "cellar" area , and have a good idea of
the width needed to support the load according to our soil type
(packs concrete-hard if you look sideways at it) but I'm not clear
on how thick they need to be . I'll be reinforcing with 3/8 rebar ,
and pouring them 12 inches wide . They'll be supporting a cinder
block wall 8 feet tall and they will be the support for the center
section of the 24' double 2x12 main beams . The entire footing will
be below the frost line even allowing for the slope of the land .
I'll be using a 1:3:3 mix , done on site . Gotta justify that
cement mixer I just ordered ... I'm thinking 6" should be thick
enough , considering they'll be under
block wall and reinforced . But I don't know , and haven't found
any info on how to figure that .


check with your building inspector because its really up to him/

you are getting a building permit?

What's a building permit ?


and dont forget anyunderground sewer lines.

The only waste lines are the ones I put in , and they're nowhere near .

adding square footage might require a main service panel upgrade.

This is the 2nd phase of our house project , there's a new 200 amp service
panel in the "living room" . Phase 3 will be the bedroom , but that's a
couple of years off . We're building this out of pocket , no borrowing .

and if theres any other issues the building inspector will be looking
for them.

like storm water runoff, around here that can require the
installation of dry wells for all downspout drains

Out here in the woods we don't have inspectors , codes , or inspections .
That doesn't mean I'm not going to do it right , just means I don't have big
brother breathing down my neck .
There will eventually be gutters and a collection system for rain water ,
right now that's not part of the plan .
And about the reinforcement - those requirements are for "worst-case"
situations , which this ain't . 2 runs of #3 will be plenty in this case as
determined by the soil type and density . Pinning the block wall is already
in the plans , this is also going to be a storm shelter . Also in the plan
is rebar in the verticcal spaces of the block at 4 foot centers . Main
entrance will be from outside , though there will also be access from inside
..
--
Snag