I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will bridge
an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage. On the lock
side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it in a hole in the
ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs to be attached to the
house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that side of the gate. The bottom
of this 2x4 will start six inches above the concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side of
the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in concrete
and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?

Thanks

Walter

www.rationality.net

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:07:03 -0700, Walter E. wrote:

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?

Thanks

Walter

www.rationality.net



I don't know about code for this but don't trust "treated" wood today.
I'm getting some spectacular failures (rot) from treated wood less than a
decade old.

The solution is to use treated wood - but - you should paint the treated
wood heavily with with copper preservative. In some places this is very
hard to get these days so you might end up buying mailorder. I won't do
any outdoor project anymore without copper coating the PT wood.


http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-190...-Preservative-
Below/dp/B003KR23PU/ref=sr_1_3?
ie=UTF8&qid=1436642340&sr=8-3&keywords=copper+wood+preservative

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:07:03 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will bridge
an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage. On the lock
side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it in a hole in the
ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs to be attached to the
house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that side of the gate. The bottom
of this 2x4 will start six inches above the concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side of
the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in concrete
and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?

Thanks


Walter,

I think you are on the right track. Personally, I'd not worry about
"code" (back yard). Your circumstances may be different. Yes, I'd
match the lumber since you are using treated lumber.

What is the siding used on the house? Will treated lumber do potential
damage?

I never even thought of that. The siding of the house is white stucco. Maybe
I should paint the treated 2x4 before screwing it to the wall.

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:07:03 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will
bridge
an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage. On the
lock
side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it in a hole in
the
ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs to be attached to
the
house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that side of the gate. The
bottom
of this 2x4 will start six inches above the concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side of
the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in concrete
and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?

Thanks


Walter,

I think you are on the right track. Personally, I'd not worry about
"code" (back yard). Your circumstances may be different. Yes, I'd
match the lumber since you are using treated lumber.

What is the siding used on the house? Will treated lumber do potential
damage?

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:39:27 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

I never even thought of that. The siding of the house is white stucco. Maybe
I should paint the treated 2x4 before screwing it to the wall.


... in addition, make sure you lag bolt that side to the exterior wall
studs - not directly into the stucco. Lot of stress on that side.

"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:07:03 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will
bridge
an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage. On the
lock
side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it in a hole in
the
ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs to be attached to
the
house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that side of the gate. The
bottom
of this 2x4 will start six inches above the concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side of
the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in concrete
and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?

Thanks


Walter,

I think you are on the right track. Personally, I'd not worry about
"code" (back yard). Your circumstances may be different. Yes, I'd
match the lumber since you are using treated lumber.

What is the siding used on the house? Will treated lumber do potential
damage?

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:45:18 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:39:27 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

I never even thought of that. The siding of the house is white stucco. Maybe
I should paint the treated 2x4 before screwing it to the wall.


.. in addition, make sure you lag bolt that side to the exterior wall
studs - not directly into the stucco. Lot of stress on that side.


P.S. It this CBS block of stick built walls?

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 14:07:03 -0500, Walter E. wrote:

I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will
bridge an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage.
On the lock side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it
in a hole in the ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs
to be attached to the house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that
side of the gate. The bottom of this 2x4 will start six inches above the
concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side
of the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in
concrete and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?

Thanks

Walter

www.rationality.net

I wonder if the 2x4 might twist over time. Would aluminum metal
tube or
channel work out ok and not look too bad? There's also unistrut but it's
not
all that attractive.


--
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

Good point. This is a stick -built house. The stucco is only a 1" veneer. I
have located the underlying stud and will lag-screw the 2x4 directly to the
stud.

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:45:18 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:39:27 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

I never even thought of that. The siding of the house is white stucco.
Maybe
I should paint the treated 2x4 before screwing it to the wall.


.. in addition, make sure you lag bolt that side to the exterior wall
studs - not directly into the stucco. Lot of stress on that side.


P.S. It this CBS block of stick built walls?

I could use a 4x4 on the wall side, too. I tried to avoid it because I would
need a 6" lag screw. Lot of screwing! The gate is only 3 feet wide and 5
feet tall, open pickets. Thank you.

"Dean Hoffman" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 14:07:03 -0500, Walter E. wrote:

I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will
bridge an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage.
On the lock side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it
in a hole in the ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs
to be attached to the house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that
side of the gate. The bottom of this 2x4 will start six inches above the
concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side
of the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in
concrete and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?

Thanks

Walter

www.rationality.net

I wonder if the 2x4 might twist over time. Would aluminum metal
tube or
channel work out ok and not look too bad? There's also unistrut but it's
not
all that attractive.


--
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

Walter E. wrote:
I could use a 4x4 on the wall side, too. I tried to avoid it because
I would need a 6" lag screw. Lot of screwing! The gate is only 3 feet
wide and 5 feet tall, open pickets. Thank you.

Walter , from a BTDT perspective , have someone build a frame for your
gate out of 1" x 3" 16 gauge square tube steel . Having built a gate or two
, I can guarantee that if you frame the gate with wood , it will sag . Make
sure your steel guy puts an angled piece from corner to corner . I 100%
guarantee that the steel framed gate will not sag - and the wood one will .

--
Snag

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 19:24:14 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

Walter E. wrote:
I could use a 4x4 on the wall side, too. I tried to avoid it because
I would need a 6" lag screw. Lot of screwing! The gate is only 3 feet
wide and 5 feet tall, open pickets. Thank you.

Walter , from a BTDT perspective , have someone build a frame for your
gate out of 1" x 3" 16 gauge square tube steel . Having built a gate or
two
, I can guarantee that if you frame the gate with wood , it will sag .
Make
sure your steel guy puts an angled piece from corner to corner . I 100%
guarantee that the steel framed gate will not sag - and the wood one
will .


Your post reminded me of the screen doors in the old farm house
my parents had. The doors had a support running from hinged top side
to the latch bottom side. It was a couple small rods with a turnbuckle
in the middle. Not quite like this: http://tinyurl.com/omqsbtl
Much more like this: http://tinyurl.com/pwhja7j
Bing images.
The wooden farm gates seemed to all bow or sag. My dad finally
got tired of that so built some steel ones out of some old pipe he
had.


--
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

Hi Walter,

I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will
bridge an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage.
On the lock side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set
it in a hole in the ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate
needs to be attached to the house, there is no room for another 4x4 on
that side of the gate. The bottom of this 2x4 will start six inches
above the concrete walk.
I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side
of the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in
concrete and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

I would treat the 2x4 attached to the house the same way you would do a
deck ledger board. Install washers or other spacers at each bolt to space
the board away from the siding. Then caulk the hole well when you install
the bolt. This will provide a gap between the 2x4 and your siding so water
does not get trapped where it could potentially cause rot.

Of course, the 4x4 is treated lumber. Do I need to use treated
lumber for the 2x4, too?

Unless you plan on painting them, I would recommend treated lumber for the
2x4 and all posts.

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

"Walter E." wrote in message
...

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house?

1. For effects on future sale, ask a real estate agent.
2. In this jurisdiction, building permits offices tell taxpayers
(without charge) whether plans need alteration in order to
conform to the building code.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will bridge
an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage. On the lock
side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it in a hole in the
ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs to be attached to the
house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that side of the gate. The bottom
of this 2x4 will start six inches above the concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side of
the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in concrete
and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?


I would be more concerned about appearance for sales purposes, rather than what a termite inspector will say. I don't like the look of treated wood. I would use cedar or redwood or mahogany.

On Sunday, July 12, 2015 at 10:16:12 AM UTC-4, John G wrote:
I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will bridge
an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage. On the lock
side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it in a hole in the
ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs to be attached to the
house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that side of the gate. The bottom
of this 2x4 will start six inches above the concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side of
the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in concrete
and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?


I would be more concerned about appearance for sales purposes, rather than what a termite inspector will say. I don't like the look of treated wood. I would use cedar or redwood or mahogany.

I guess what to use depends partly on what wood the gate itself is made
from and if the gate is painted or not. If painted, then the look of the
wood wouldn't matter. If not, then I'd think you want all the wood to match.
So maybe that needs to be taken into account when picking the gate.

For fastening, I agree with the poster that said to do it similar to
how you'd do a ledger board for a deck, seal the screw holes, etc.

He might take some pics and visit a fence shop, ask them what they recommend.
Possible they have some easy, good solution as they must do this all the time.

On 7/11/2015 3:07 PM, Walter E. wrote:
I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will
bridge an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage.
On the lock side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it
in a hole in the ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs
to be attached to the house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that
side of the gate. The bottom of this 2x4 will start six inches above the
concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side
of the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in
concrete and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?

Thanks

Walter

www.rationality.net

Complaints from termite inspectors? Doubtful; they only look for
termites. Treated lumber is not immune from termite infestation; it
only delays it. Primary concern would be to keep structure in good
repair as far as paint, caulk, plumbing/electrical entries, grade at
least 6-8" below wood elements. State or county extension agencies
usually have good tips about preventing insect problems and the signs
that homeowners should be watchful for.

On Sun, 12 Jul 2015 12:59:33 -0400, Norminn
wrote:

On 7/11/2015 3:07 PM, Walter E. wrote:
I am building a wooden garden gate for the rear of my house. It will
bridge an existing 3-foot wide concrete walk which adjoins the garage.
On the lock side of the gate I will use a 4x4 treated lumber and set it
in a hole in the ground in concrete. On the hinge side, the gate needs
to be attached to the house, there is no room for another 4x4 on that
side of the gate. The bottom of this 2x4 will start six inches above the
concrete walk.

I thought I would use a 2x4 and use lag screws to screw it to the side
of the house. The 3' wide gate will fit between the 4x4 post set in
concrete and the 2x4 attached to the house (garage).

Will this arrangement compromise building codes or cause complaints from
termite inspectors when I sell the house? Of course, the 4x4 is treated
lumber. Do I need to use treated lumber for the 2x4, too?

Thanks

Walter

www.rationality.net

Complaints from termite inspectors? Doubtful; they only look for
termites. Treated lumber is not immune from termite infestation; it
only delays it. Primary concern would be to keep structure in good
repair as far as paint, caulk, plumbing/electrical entries, grade at
least 6-8" below wood elements. State or county extension agencies
usually have good tips about preventing insect problems and the signs
that homeowners should be watchful for.
And for appearance xake - use the new brown treated lumber instead of
the crappy green stuff.

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 16:35:37 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

Good point. This is a stick -built house. The stucco is only a 1" veneer. I
have located the underlying stud and will lag-screw the 2x4 directly to the
stud.


I'll assume your exterior wall studs are 2X6. Pre-drill with the
correct sized bit for the lag bolt.

When Bubba and I added a patio roof ledger board, we cut the stucco
out to install the board and used 3/8" x 4" (??) lag bolts.

Touch up with fresh stucco, brought in a stucco Mexican to do all the
3 coat finish.

"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:45:18 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:39:27 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

I never even thought of that. The siding of the house is white stucco.
Maybe
I should paint the treated 2x4 before screwing it to the wall.


.. in addition, make sure you lag bolt that side to the exterior wall
studs - not directly into the stucco. Lot of stress on that side.


P.S. It this CBS block of stick built walls?

Oren posted for all of us...



On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 16:35:37 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

Good point. This is a stick -built house. The stucco is only a 1" veneer. I
have located the underlying stud and will lag-screw the 2x4 directly to the
stud.


I'll assume your exterior wall studs are 2X6. Pre-drill with the
correct sized bit for the lag bolt.

When Bubba and I added a patio roof ledger board, we cut the stucco
out to install the board and used 3/8" x 4" (??) lag bolts.

Touch up with fresh stucco, brought in a stucco Mexican to do all the
3 coat finish.

"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:45:18 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2015 12:39:27 -0700, "Walter E."
wrote:

I never even thought of that. The siding of the house is white stucco.
Maybe
I should paint the treated 2x4 before screwing it to the wall.


.. in addition, make sure you lag bolt that side to the exterior wall
studs - not directly into the stucco. Lot of stress on that side.


P.S. It this CBS block of stick built walls?

That was my thinking. The stucco will compress gradually and you will have
to tighten the lag bolts. At first I thought that caulking around interface
would be good to keep the water out but I am putting more thinking into it.
You may have to lay some kind of rigid material in the interface; even a
smooth layer of stucco. IDK Definitely need to weatherproof the interface.
Do you live in an area with freezing? I would ask the AHJ and a fence supply
place and DAGS.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*