I bought a 200,000 BTU pool heater, to be installed outdoors.

The model is Hayward H200FDN.

The size of the piping that leads to it is somewhat iffy and appears
just a bit undersized according to various tables. Depending on the
actual pressure in the system, may be inadequate and not able to
supply enough gas.

The manual says:

``Based upon an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less at a pressure
drop of 0.5 in-wc''

Later it says:

``Hayward will not be responsible for heaters that soot up due to
improper .. natural gas line sizing''.

If I cannot provide this heater with adequate gas flow, I can upgrade
most of the piping from 3/4" NPT to 1" NPT, it is roughly a day or
work and some money.

To question is, do I need to do it?

So, I thought, I could turn to measurement of the gas pressure right
at the inlet of the pool heater. If the gas pressure at the inlet,
when the heater is running, is above the recommended value, then
I am fine.

I do have a pressure gauge that I could use.

My question is, and here's where I am not sure, what is that
"recommended inlet pressure". Is that 0.5 PSIG when the heater is
running? Am I reading that right?

thanks

On 5/16/2015 10:29 AM, Ignoramus6769 wrote:
I bought a 200,000 BTU pool heater, to be installed outdoors.

The model is Hayward H200FDN.

The size of the piping that leads to it is somewhat iffy and appears
just a bit undersized according to various tables. Depending on the
actual pressure in the system, may be inadequate and not able to
supply enough gas.

The manual says:

``Based upon an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less at a pressure
drop of 0.5 in-wc''

Later it says:

``Hayward will not be responsible for heaters that soot up due to
improper .. natural gas line sizing''.

If I cannot provide this heater with adequate gas flow, I can upgrade
most of the piping from 3/4" NPT to 1" NPT, it is roughly a day or
work and some money.

To question is, do I need to do it?

So, I thought, I could turn to measurement of the gas pressure right
at the inlet of the pool heater. If the gas pressure at the inlet,
when the heater is running, is above the recommended value, then
I am fine.

I do have a pressure gauge that I could use.

My question is, and here's where I am not sure, what is that
"recommended inlet pressure". Is that 0.5 PSIG when the heater is
running? Am I reading that right?

thanks

I think you are interpreting it correctly. But, 0.5 psig seems high for
regular natural gas. Or, is it propane? Either way, 1 psi is 27.7 in-wc.
So that would make the inlet pressure almost 14 in-wc. But as most gas
appliances have regulators, I guess that might be ok.

On Sat, 16 May 2015 09:29:54 -0500, Ignoramus6769
wrote:

I bought a 200,000 BTU pool heater, to be installed outdoors.

The model is Hayward H200FDN.

The size of the piping that leads to it is somewhat iffy and appears
just a bit undersized according to various tables. Depending on the
actual pressure in the system, may be inadequate and not able to
supply enough gas.

The manual says:

``Based upon an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less at a pressure
drop of 0.5 in-wc''

Later it says:

``Hayward will not be responsible for heaters that soot up due to
improper .. natural gas line sizing''.

If I cannot provide this heater with adequate gas flow, I can upgrade
most of the piping from 3/4" NPT to 1" NPT, it is roughly a day or
work and some money.

To question is, do I need to do it?

So, I thought, I could turn to measurement of the gas pressure right
at the inlet of the pool heater. If the gas pressure at the inlet,
when the heater is running, is above the recommended value, then
I am fine.

I do have a pressure gauge that I could use.

My question is, and here's where I am not sure, what is that
"recommended inlet pressure". Is that 0.5 PSIG when the heater is
running? Am I reading that right?

thanks
You are correct. You need the pressure at the appliance when it is
running. With the appliance NOT running you would have the correct
pressure on even a 1/4" line.

On 2015-05-16, wrote:
On Sat, 16 May 2015 09:29:54 -0500, Ignoramus6769
wrote:

I bought a 200,000 BTU pool heater, to be installed outdoors.

The model is Hayward H200FDN.

The size of the piping that leads to it is somewhat iffy and appears
just a bit undersized according to various tables. Depending on the
actual pressure in the system, may be inadequate and not able to
supply enough gas.

The manual says:

``Based upon an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less at a pressure
drop of 0.5 in-wc''

Later it says:

``Hayward will not be responsible for heaters that soot up due to
improper .. natural gas line sizing''.

If I cannot provide this heater with adequate gas flow, I can upgrade
most of the piping from 3/4" NPT to 1" NPT, it is roughly a day or
work and some money.

To question is, do I need to do it?

So, I thought, I could turn to measurement of the gas pressure right
at the inlet of the pool heater. If the gas pressure at the inlet,
when the heater is running, is above the recommended value, then
I am fine.

I do have a pressure gauge that I could use.

My question is, and here's where I am not sure, what is that
"recommended inlet pressure". Is that 0.5 PSIG when the heater is
running? Am I reading that right?

thanks
You are correct. You need the pressure at the appliance when it is
running. With the appliance NOT running you would have the correct
pressure on even a 1/4" line.

I agree. It makes sense based on simple physics.

The question is, what exactly pressure should I see on the onlet when
the heater is running.

i

On 05/16/2015 10:49 AM, Ignoramus6769 wrote:
On 2015-05-16, wrote:
On Sat, 16 May 2015 09:29:54 -0500, Ignoramus6769
wrote:

I bought a 200,000 BTU pool heater, to be installed outdoors.

The model is Hayward H200FDN.

The size of the piping that leads to it is somewhat iffy and appears
just a bit undersized according to various tables. Depending on the
actual pressure in the system, may be inadequate and not able to
supply enough gas.

The manual says:

``Based upon an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less at a pressure
drop of 0.5 in-wc''

....

My question is, and here's where I am not sure, what is that
"recommended inlet pressure". Is that 0.5 PSIG when the heater is
running? Am I reading that right?

thanks
You are correct. You need the pressure at the appliance when it is
running. With the appliance NOT running you would have the correct
pressure on even a 1/4" line.

I agree. It makes sense based on simple physics.

The question is, what exactly pressure should I see on the onlet when
the heater is running.


"...an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less ..."

It's not any _specific_ pressure; it's that it's not too high and that
whatever it is can be maintained under flow conditions.

--

On Sat, 16 May 2015 11:40:50 -0400, wrote in


You are correct. You need the pressure at the appliance when it is
running. With the appliance NOT running you would have the correct
pressure on even a 1/4" line.

+1
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

Ignoramus6769 wrote:
On 2015-05-16, wrote:
On Sat, 16 May 2015 09:29:54 -0500, Ignoramus6769
wrote:

I bought a 200,000 BTU pool heater, to be installed outdoors.

The model is Hayward H200FDN.

The size of the piping that leads to it is somewhat iffy and appears
just a bit undersized according to various tables. Depending on the
actual pressure in the system, may be inadequate and not able to
supply enough gas.

The manual says:

``Based upon an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less at a pressure
drop of 0.5 in-wc''

Later it says:

``Hayward will not be responsible for heaters that soot up due to
improper .. natural gas line sizing''.

If I cannot provide this heater with adequate gas flow, I can upgrade
most of the piping from 3/4" NPT to 1" NPT, it is roughly a day or
work and some money.

To question is, do I need to do it?

So, I thought, I could turn to measurement of the gas pressure right
at the inlet of the pool heater. If the gas pressure at the inlet,
when the heater is running, is above the recommended value, then
I am fine.

I do have a pressure gauge that I could use.

My question is, and here's where I am not sure, what is that
"recommended inlet pressure". Is that 0.5 PSIG when the heater is
running? Am I reading that right?

thanks
You are correct. You need the pressure at the appliance when it is
running. With the appliance NOT running you would have the correct
pressure on even a 1/4" line.

I agree. It makes sense based on simple physics.

The question is, what exactly pressure should I see on the onlet when
the heater is running.

i

Isn't there a pressure regulator near the meter at entry point.

On Saturday, May 16, 2015 at 9:29:57 AM UTC-5, Ignoramus6769 wrote:
I bought a 200,000 BTU pool heater, to be installed outdoors.

The model is Hayward H200FDN.

The size of the piping that leads to it is somewhat iffy and appears
just a bit undersized according to various tables. Depending on the
actual pressure in the system, may be inadequate and not able to
supply enough gas.

The manual says:

``Based upon an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less at a pressure
drop of 0.5 in-wc''

Later it says:

``Hayward will not be responsible for heaters that soot up due to
improper .. natural gas line sizing''.

If I cannot provide this heater with adequate gas flow, I can upgrade
most of the piping from 3/4" NPT to 1" NPT, it is roughly a day or
work and some money.

To question is, do I need to do it?

So, I thought, I could turn to measurement of the gas pressure right
at the inlet of the pool heater. If the gas pressure at the inlet,
when the heater is running, is above the recommended value, then
I am fine.

I do have a pressure gauge that I could use.

My question is, and here's where I am not sure, what is that
"recommended inlet pressure". Is that 0.5 PSIG when the heater is
running? Am I reading that right?

thanks

Check with your gas company to see if you can get 2 psi service. When I was doing work on HVAC systems especially remodeling, we would get 2 psi service and run 1/2 inch copper or corrugated stainless steel tubing to each appliance where a regulator was installed at each appliance to drop the pressure down to what the appliance required. I think 1/2 inch line at 2 psi could work but it's best to check the tables for the right size for the length of the pipe run. 8-)

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[8~{} Uncle Gassy Monster

On 2015-05-16, dpb wrote:

"...an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less ..."

It's not any _specific_ pressure; it's that it's not too high and that
whatever it is can be maintained under flow conditions.

OK, an update: I have decided that

1) This is a very good heater because it can heat the pool quickly
before use, and thus I do not need to waste energy "maintaining"
temperature when the pool is not in use.

2) I need to hook it up correctly and will install proper gas piping
comprised of about 40' of 1" pipe.

i

On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 4:37:03 PM UTC-4, Ignoramus4261 wrote:
On 2015-05-16, dpb wrote:

"...an inlet gas pressure of 0.5 psig or less ..."

It's not any _specific_ pressure; it's that it's not too high and that
whatever it is can be maintained under flow conditions.

OK, an update: I have decided that

1) This is a very good heater because it can heat the pool quickly
before use, and thus I do not need to waste energy "maintaining"
temperature when the pool is not in use.

2) I need to hook it up correctly and will install proper gas piping
comprised of about 40' of 1" pipe.

i

Before you plumb it all in, have you figured out how much
it's going to cost to heat the pool? Around here, NJ, almost
no one uses them because of the huge operating cost. They
have them sitting there, because they were installed with the
pool, but they rarely if ever use them. I guess
if it's small, it might not be too bad. But for an inground
one that's 30 or 40K gallons, which isn't unusual, it costs
a lot of money. The fact that it's 200K BTUs tells you
something. The largest home gas furnace is 120K btus.

If you have some room for a solar array, you can operate it
for close to free. But they have drawbacks too, the large
size needed being one. Whether you want one on the roof or
have a space out of sight in the yard is another.

You can use a pool cover with either, which helps a lot.
But that's a pain and some folks won't put up with it,
don't like the look, etc.