I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

2. Are there other ways to assemble PVC? For example, would a single
self-tapping screw at each joint work? (Remember, this pipe will not
be pressurized). With a screw, I would also be able to disassemble
the frame later for storage or to make modifications.

Thanks for your ideas,
Pat

On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 13:05:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

2. Are there other ways to assemble PVC? For example, would a single
self-tapping screw at each joint work? (Remember, this pipe will not
be pressurized). With a screw, I would also be able to disassemble
the frame later for storage or to make modifications.

Thanks for your ideas,
Pat

I vote the above. Pre-drill single holes each side of the fitting (can
be inside or outside corners).

Wind prone area?

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 1:06:08 PM UTC-4, Pat wrote:
I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

Not very long. The glue starts to set up right away, gets
more difficult to move in maybe 30 secs and it's probably
not very movable at one minute. Couple mins, forget about it.

If there is a slower glue, I've looked for it before and never
found it. I too thought it would be a good idea for some
projects.



2. Are there other ways to assemble PVC? For example, would a single
self-tapping screw at each joint work? (Remember, this pipe will not
be pressurized). With a screw, I would also be able to disassemble
the frame later for storage or to make modifications.

Thanks for your ideas,
Pat

A screw probably wouldn't be as strong, would be more prone
to cracking there, etc., but it might work. Other problem is
that with the glue, the glue actually melts the plastic,
some of it essentially becomes fluid, so that the joint
can be fully seated. With the joint dry, it's very hard to get
it to fully seat. Even if you put some lube on it, I think it
still may be hard to get it to come together all the way, keep
it there while you drill a hole.

On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 13:05:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

How could it matter? Just push the pipe into the connector. Takes 4
seconds. By the time you get to the next joint, the first will be
firm enough not to get messed up. If perchance one would come apart,
you could use a knife or sandpaper to remove the glue before trying
again. Once you get all the joints connected, let it sit for an hour,
although I think 5 minutes is enough. Especially since it doesn't have
to be water-tight.

2. Are there other ways to assemble PVC? For example, would a single
self-tapping screw at each joint work? (Remember, this pipe will not

Sure, why not?

be pressurized). With a screw, I would also be able to disassemble
the frame later for storage or to make modifications.

I think you should plan now where you expect to take it apart for
storage.

Thanks for your ideas,
Pat

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 1:39:48 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 13:05:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

How could it matter? Just push the pipe into the connector. Takes 4
seconds. By the time you get to the next joint, the first will be
firm enough not to get messed up.

It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.



If perchance one would come apart,
you could use a knife or sandpaper to remove the glue before trying
again.

Good luck with that.

On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 10:50:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 1:39:48 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 13:05:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

How could it matter? Just push the pipe into the connector. Takes 4
seconds. By the time you get to the next joint, the first will be
firm enough not to get messed up.

It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.

Very unlikely to be a problem on a large awning.


If perchance one would come apart,
you could use a knife or sandpaper to remove the glue before trying
again.

Good luck with that.

Well, it's not going to happen anyhow.

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 1:53:36 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 10:50:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 1:39:48 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 13:05:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

How could it matter? Just push the pipe into the connector. Takes 4
seconds. By the time you get to the next joint, the first will be
firm enough not to get messed up.

It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.

Very unlikely to be a problem on a large awning.


Maybe so, but we don't know how exactly it has to come
together. All I know is that he says he has a lot of
experience with working with PVC and he's looking for
glue that will give him more working time. Having to
assemble several critical joints essentially all at once
is the only time I've ever wished that there was a glue
with a slower cure time. So, I've been there and giving
him the benefit of the doubt. It sounds to me like maybe he
doesn't want to assemble one corner, then find out it
needs to be moved a bit when he gets to the next corner
to make it line up, etc. If that isn't the problem,
then the question makes no sense.



..
If perchance one would come apart,
you could use a knife or sandpaper to remove the glue before trying
again.

Good luck with that.

Well, it's not going to happen anyhow.

Good thing, eh?

Pat wrote:

2. Are there other ways to assemble PVC? For example, would a single
self-tapping screw at each joint work? (Remember, this pipe will not
be pressurized). With a screw, I would also be able to disassemble
the frame later for storage or to make modifications.

Sure a small screw works just fine. Lots of PVC furniture has been done
that way.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 11:19:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 1:53:36 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 10:50:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Thursday, April 16, 2015 at 1:39:48 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 13:05:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

How could it matter? Just push the pipe into the connector. Takes 4
seconds. By the time you get to the next joint, the first will be
firm enough not to get messed up.

It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.

Very unlikely to be a problem on a large awning.


Maybe so, but we don't know how exactly it has to come
together. All I know is that he says he has a lot of
experience with working with PVC and he's looking for
glue that will give him more working time. Having to
assemble several critical joints essentially all at once
is the only time I've ever wished that there was a glue
with a slower cure time. So, I've been there and giving
him the benefit of the doubt. It sounds to me like maybe he
doesn't want to assemble one corner, then find out it
needs to be moved a bit when he gets to the next corner
to make it line up, etc.
Exactly. That is the problem. It was hard to get it all together
with no glue due to some smaller pieces forming squares. Unlike water
pipes, everything has to line up.

Thanks to all for your responses. I think I will go with screws. The
appearance won't be quite as nice, but the joints will be mostly
covered by the awning material anyway. And, the awning material will
help hold the frame together.

Thanks,
Pat



If that isn't the problem,
then the question makes no sense.



.
If perchance one would come apart,
you could use a knife or sandpaper to remove the glue before trying
again.

Good luck with that.

Well, it's not going to happen anyhow.

Good thing, eh?

Pat wrote:
I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

2. Are there other ways to assemble PVC? For example, would a single
self-tapping screw at each joint work? (Remember, this pipe will not
be pressurized). With a screw, I would also be able to disassemble
the frame later for storage or to make modifications.

Thanks for your ideas,
Pat


Would heating the connectors then compressing them work? Heat
gun then apply pressure with a hose clamp? I'm thinking of the clamp
with the screw for tightening. Remove the clamp as you go.

On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 10:50:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.

You only glue one at a time. Put a pencil mark on the pipe and fitting
so you know EXACTLY where the pipe and fitting should be (do the pencil
mark when it's dry fit). You mentioned BLACK pipe, so if you cant see a
pencil mark, I'd probably use some whiteout.

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 7:12:37 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 10:50:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.

You only glue one at a time. Put a pencil mark on the pipe and fitting
so you know EXACTLY where the pipe and fitting should be (do the pencil
mark when it's dry fit). You mentioned BLACK pipe, so if you cant see a
pencil mark, I'd probably use some whiteout.

The point is that in some cases, you can't glue one at a time,
because once one is done, you can no longer do the other. They
have to go on at the same time. Imagine having two pipes
emerging from a wall six inches apart, they stick out 2". You need to
connect the two using a piece of PVC and two elbows. The only way
to do that is to do both ends at the same time. That's the kind
of situation the OP is dealing with. There are plenty where it's
worse, pool eqpt pads are where it happens frequently. You may
have 3 fittings that need to go together at the same time.

Also, dry fitting is problematic. The pipe and fittings are
not made to go together when dry. You can get the pipe part
way in, but getting it in fully without glue is nearly impossible.
I have used the marking technique occasionally, to mark the
angle the fitting and pipe need to align at. But marking doesn't
solve the issue the OP is having.

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 06:04:14 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 7:12:37 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 10:50:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.

You only glue one at a time. Put a pencil mark on the pipe and fitting
so you know EXACTLY where the pipe and fitting should be (do the pencil
mark when it's dry fit). You mentioned BLACK pipe, so if you cant see a
pencil mark, I'd probably use some whiteout.

The point is that in some cases, you can't glue one at a time,
because once one is done, you can no longer do the other. They
have to go on at the same time. Imagine having two pipes
emerging from a wall six inches apart, they stick out 2". You need to
connect the two using a piece of PVC and two elbows. The only way
to do that is to do both ends at the same time. That's the kind
of situation the OP is dealing with. There are plenty where it's
worse, pool eqpt pads are where it happens frequently. You may
have 3 fittings that need to go together at the same time.

Trader,
You have been explaining my issues better than I have. Thank you.
Regarding the following paragraph, dry fitting has not been a problem
for this project. A light tap with a rubber mallet has worked well.
Pat


Also, dry fitting is problematic. The pipe and fittings are
not made to go together when dry. You can get the pipe part
way in, but getting it in fully without glue is nearly impossible.
I have used the marking technique occasionally, to mark the
angle the fitting and pipe need to align at. But marking doesn't
solve the issue the OP is having.

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 09:16:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 06:04:14 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 7:12:37 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 10:50:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.

You only glue one at a time. Put a pencil mark on the pipe and fitting
so you know EXACTLY where the pipe and fitting should be (do the pencil
mark when it's dry fit). You mentioned BLACK pipe, so if you cant see a
pencil mark, I'd probably use some whiteout.

The point is that in some cases, you can't glue one at a time,
because once one is done, you can no longer do the other. They
have to go on at the same time. Imagine having two pipes
emerging from a wall six inches apart, they stick out 2". You need to
connect the two using a piece of PVC and two elbows. The only way
to do that is to do both ends at the same time. That's the kind
of situation the OP is dealing with. There are plenty where it's
worse, pool eqpt pads are where it happens frequently. You may
have 3 fittings that need to go together at the same time.

Trader,
You have been explaining my issues better than I have. Thank you.
Regarding the following paragraph, dry fitting has not been a problem
for this project. A light tap with a rubber mallet has worked well.

I would be glad to use a light tap with a rubber mallet, but I can't
tell where Trader is!

Pat


Also, dry fitting is problematic. The pipe and fittings are
not made to go together when dry. You can get the pipe part
way in, but getting it in fully without glue is nearly impossible.
I have used the marking technique occasionally, to mark the
angle the fitting and pipe need to align at. But marking doesn't
solve the issue the OP is having.

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 9:39:47 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 09:16:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 06:04:14 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 7:12:37 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 10:50:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.

You only glue one at a time. Put a pencil mark on the pipe and fitting
so you know EXACTLY where the pipe and fitting should be (do the pencil
mark when it's dry fit). You mentioned BLACK pipe, so if you cant see a
pencil mark, I'd probably use some whiteout.

The point is that in some cases, you can't glue one at a time,
because once one is done, you can no longer do the other. They
have to go on at the same time. Imagine having two pipes
emerging from a wall six inches apart, they stick out 2". You need to
connect the two using a piece of PVC and two elbows. The only way
to do that is to do both ends at the same time. That's the kind
of situation the OP is dealing with. There are plenty where it's
worse, pool eqpt pads are where it happens frequently. You may
have 3 fittings that need to go together at the same time.

Trader,
You have been explaining my issues better than I have. Thank you.
Regarding the following paragraph, dry fitting has not been a problem
for this project. A light tap with a rubber mallet has worked well.

I would be glad to use a light tap with a rubber mallet, but I can't
tell where Trader is!


Do you even realize that the fittings he's tapping together
are special ones designed for PVC furniture and not the typical
water ones? Think that may make a difference? For the problem
with dry fitting PVC plumbing fittings:

https://theplumbingsupplyco.wordpres...c-connections/

http://terrylove.com/forums/index.ph...fittings.2523/

But then you think that a fitting that you glued up and it went
wrong can be salvaged by cleaning it up with a knife or sandpaper.....
Nuff said.

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 9:04:18 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
The point is that in some cases, you can't glue one at a time,
because once one is done, you can no longer do the other. They
have to go on at the same time. Imagine having two pipes
emerging from a wall six inches apart, they stick out 2". You need to
connect the two using a piece of PVC and two elbows. The only way
to do that is to do both ends at the same time. That's the kind


Or a coupling.

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 10:41:55 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 9:04:18 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
The point is that in some cases, you can't glue one at a time,
because once one is done, you can no longer do the other. They
have to go on at the same time. Imagine having two pipes
emerging from a wall six inches apart, they stick out 2". You need to
connect the two using a piece of PVC and two elbows. The only way
to do that is to do both ends at the same time. That's the kind


Or a coupling.

You mean a union? Not clear that solves the problem either.
If you glue up two separate halves of a union, without the union
being together, you may not get the two halves to be perfectly
square with each other. When you glue up the second half, they
may be out of alignment. And unions are a source of leaks, that
are avoided unless really necessary. I sure wouldn't look at
it as a solution to the simple plumbing problem presented.
You just do both sides at the same time. In that example, it's
easy. But there are plenty of more complicated, close quarters
situations where it's not simple and a longer glue time would be
a real benefit.

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 11:33:57 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

You mean a union? Not clear that solves the problem either.
If you glue up two separate halves of a union, without the union
being together, you may not get the two halves to be perfectly
square with each other. When you glue up the second half, they
may be out of alignment.

Yeah, union, couldn't think of the right word.

It might work in some cases, as PVC pipe has some flexibility. But I agree, slower glue would be a better solution.

What if you refrigerate the glue? Does that give you some time? It does with epoxy.

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 12:34:29 PM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 11:33:57 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

You mean a union? Not clear that solves the problem either.
If you glue up two separate halves of a union, without the union
being together, you may not get the two halves to be perfectly
square with each other. When you glue up the second half, they
may be out of alignment.

Yeah, union, couldn't think of the right word.

It might work in some cases, as PVC pipe has some flexibility. But I agree, slower glue would be a better solution.

What if you refrigerate the glue? Does that give you some time? It does with epoxy.

The cure time does increase with lower temps. IDK if it would be
enough to help all that much, but it might. And there is some temp
below which it's not supposed to be used, ~40F I think. Other problem
would be you could chill the glue and the fittings, but not the pipe
in many cases. It still could be a good idea if you want to try to
get some additional time, can't hurt.

Pat wrote:
I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

2. Are there other ways to assemble PVC? For example, would a single
self-tapping screw at each joint work? (Remember, this pipe will not
be pressurized). With a screw, I would also be able to disassemble
the frame later for storage or to make modifications.

Thanks for your ideas,
Pat

I might try some kind of caulk, which should remain movable for at least a
number of minutes. Test a joint first to see if what you choose is strong
enough.

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 06:51:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 9:39:47 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 09:16:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

On Fri, 17 Apr 2015 06:04:14 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, April 17, 2015 at 7:12:37 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 10:50:03 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:


It matters when you have several fittings where they essentially
have to be done at the same time to assemble it. If the first one
sets up before you get to the last one, there won't be a last one.

You only glue one at a time. Put a pencil mark on the pipe and fitting
so you know EXACTLY where the pipe and fitting should be (do the pencil
mark when it's dry fit). You mentioned BLACK pipe, so if you cant see a
pencil mark, I'd probably use some whiteout.

The point is that in some cases, you can't glue one at a time,
because once one is done, you can no longer do the other. They
have to go on at the same time. Imagine having two pipes
emerging from a wall six inches apart, they stick out 2". You need to
connect the two using a piece of PVC and two elbows. The only way
to do that is to do both ends at the same time. That's the kind
of situation the OP is dealing with. There are plenty where it's
worse, pool eqpt pads are where it happens frequently. You may
have 3 fittings that need to go together at the same time.

Trader,
You have been explaining my issues better than I have. Thank you.
Regarding the following paragraph, dry fitting has not been a problem
for this project. A light tap with a rubber mallet has worked well.

I would be glad to use a light tap with a rubber mallet, but I can't
tell where Trader is!

The previous line here was meant as humor.

Do you even realize that the fittings he's tapping together
are special ones designed for PVC furniture and not the typical
water ones? Think that may make a difference? For the problem
with dry fitting PVC plumbing fittings:

https://theplumbingsupplyco.wordpres...c-connections/

http://terrylove.com/forums/index.ph...fittings.2523/

But then you think that a fitting that you glued up and it went
wrong can be salvaged by cleaning it up with a knife or sandpaper.....
Nuff said.

On Thu, 16 Apr 2015 13:05:53 -0400, Pat wrote:

I have installed PVC pipe many times over the past decades and know
how to apply the glue. However, the project I am working on right now
is a little different. I am using black 1.25" "furniture grade" PVC
from formufit.com to build a frame for a large awning.

I have built what I want but have not glued it together yet. Due to
the tight fit, it almost stays together well enough without any glue.
The thought of pulling each joint apart, glueing it, and then putting
it back together scares me. I realized I have no idea how long it
takes the glue to set up. For water pipe, I clean it, apply the glue,
push it together and then leave it alone for a few hours. But, for
this project, how long do I have to rotate joints before the glue is
set? 10 seconds? a minute? 10 minutes? I have no idea.

So I have two questions:

1. How long do I have after applying the glue to work with the joints
before the glue sets? (if it is a very short time, is there slower
glue available?)

2. Are there other ways to assemble PVC? For example, would a single
self-tapping screw at each joint work? (Remember, this pipe will not
be pressurized). With a screw, I would also be able to disassemble
the frame later for storage or to make modifications.

Thanks for your ideas,
Pat

I've used screws before for this sort of thing but I drill pilot holes
first to avoid stressing the plastic. You don't want to cause
cracking of the plastic. The pilot holes can be big enough that the
screws go in very easy. You aren't depending on the screws pull out
strength, you just need them there for the interlock.