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#1
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Chair Repair Question
I have a LazyBoy recliner chair that needs a fix.
I will try to describe the chair, and its problem. The chair has wooden arms with wooden supports three vertical, round 'rods' (my word) each about 10" long and about 2" diameter. The 'rods' go thru round holes in the chair arms. When originally built, the 'rods' look like they were made to stay in the arms by having a small wooden wedge forced into the 'rods' so as to make them stay in place in the arms. Wouldn't you know - the arms have begun to pull off the 'rods'. Put it another way - the 'rods' now portrude thru the arm holes and stick up about an inch. There - I hope I have described the problem well enough that someone can advise me how to fix this. I think the proper way to fix the rods would be to remove the wooden wedge from each rod, and replace it with another slightly bigger wedge to basically make the rod stay in the arm's hole. Plus maybe a little glue? I am not a carpenter, so I can't really do this. But I am wondering - is there a glue or some other substance that I could coat onto the part of the rod that is sticking up (about 1/2") that would hold the rod in place - maybe even swell the rod to make it a tight fit again? Thanks JW |
#3
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Chair Repair Question
On Sun, 25 Jan 2015 09:12:16 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 1/25/2015 8:29 AM, wrote: I have a LazyBoy recliner chair that needs a fix. I will try to describe the chair, and its problem. The chair has wooden arms with wooden supports three vertical, round 'rods' (my word) each about 10" long and about 2" diameter. The 'rods' go thru round holes in the chair arms. When originally built, the 'rods' look like they were made to stay in the arms by having a small wooden wedge forced into the 'rods' so as to make them stay in place in the arms. Wouldn't you know - the arms have begun to pull off the 'rods'. Put it another way - the 'rods' now portrude thru the arm holes and stick up about an inch. There - I hope I have described the problem well enough that someone can advise me how to fix this. I think the proper way to fix the rods would be to remove the wooden wedge from each rod, and replace it with another slightly bigger wedge to basically make the rod stay in the arm's hole. Plus maybe a little glue? I am not a carpenter, so I can't really do this. But I am wondering - is there a glue or some other substance that I could coat onto the part of the rod that is sticking up (about 1/2") that would hold the rod in place - maybe even swell the rod to make it a tight fit again? Thanks JW Gorilla Glue is one option. Please do some internet research on the product. Works fine in many situations. This might be one such. - . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . One word - WONDERLOK 'EM. Ace Hardware.. It'll cost you a "Hamilton" |
#4
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Chair Repair Question
On 1/25/2015 12:12 PM, wrote:
One word - WONDERLOK (1) 'EM(2) . |
#5
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Chair Repair Question
On Sun, 25 Jan 2015 17:45:05 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 1/25/2015 12:12 PM, wrote: One word - WONDERLOK (1) 'EM(2) . Anything intelligent to say, Stormy??? |
#6
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Chair Repair Question
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#7
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Chair Repair Question
In ,
Stormin Mormon typed: On 1/25/2015 12:12 PM, wrote: One word - WONDERLOK (1) 'EM(2) . So, how does Wonderlok 'Em work? I have never used it and when I tried doing a Google search and a YouTube search I didn't find anything that explains how it works, or why it works, differently from other glue-type products. I have tried using Gorilla Glue for chairs, thinking that the Gorilla Glue expands (which it does), but I didn't like the end results. Does the Wonderlok 'Em expand and/or does it stay slightly flexible rather than becoming brittle like ordinary wood glue? |
#8
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Chair Repair Question
On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 12:33:11 -0500, "TomR" wrote:
In , Stormin Mormon typed: On 1/25/2015 12:12 PM, wrote: One word - WONDERLOK (1) 'EM(2) . So, how does Wonderlok 'Em work? I have never used it and when I tried doing a Google search and a YouTube search I didn't find anything that explains how it works, or why it works, differently from other glue-type products. I have tried using Gorilla Glue for chairs, thinking that the Gorilla Glue expands (which it does), but I didn't like the end results. Does the Wonderlok 'Em expand and/or does it stay slightly flexible rather than becoming brittle like ordinary wood glue? Wonderlok-em dries slightly flexible, and it soaks in to the wood and THEN expands - making the joint tight, and stabilizing it. Supposed to be "the cat's meow" for loose furniture joints. |
#9
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Chair Repair Question
On Sun, 25 Jan 2015 12:12:09 -0500, wrote:
. One word - WONDERLOK 'EM. Ace Hardware.. It'll cost you a "Hamilton" We have a ACE nearby - I'll ask. Thanks JW |
#10
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Chair Repair Question
wrote in message
I have a LazyBoy recliner chair that needs a fix. I will try to describe the chair, and its problem. The chair has wooden arms with wooden supports three vertical, round 'rods' (my word) each about 10" long and about 2" diameter. The 'rods' go thru round holes in the chair arms. When originally built, the 'rods' look like they were made to stay in the arms by having a small wooden wedge forced into the 'rods' so as to make them stay in place in the arms. Wouldn't you know - the arms have begun to pull off the 'rods'. Put it another way - the 'rods' now portrude thru the arm holes and stick up about an inch. There - I hope I have described the problem well enough that someone can advise me how to fix this. I think the proper way to fix the rods would be to remove the wooden wedge from each rod, and replace it with another slightly bigger wedge to basically make the rod stay in the arm's hole. Plus maybe a little glue? That could work, depending upon your skill and how much the hole and "rod" differ in size. And yes, use glue. The _best_ glue for the purpose would be thickened epoxy but it sounds as if that might be beyond your skill level; plain old yellow glue would work if hole/"rod" are not too far off in diameter.. A more sure way of accomplishing the fix would to be to drill a hole horizontally through one side of the arm, through the "rod" and part way through he other side of the arm. Insert - with glue - a dowel of the same size as the hole. -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
#11
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Chair Repair Question
On Sunday, January 25, 2015 at 9:55:24 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
wrote in message I have a LazyBoy recliner chair that needs a fix. I will try to describe the chair, and its problem. The chair has wooden arms with wooden supports three vertical, round 'rods' (my word) each about 10" long and about 2" diameter. The 'rods' go thru round holes in the chair arms. When originally built, the 'rods' look like they were made to stay in the arms by having a small wooden wedge forced into the 'rods' so as to make them stay in place in the arms. Wouldn't you know - the arms have begun to pull off the 'rods'. Put it another way - the 'rods' now portrude thru the arm holes and stick up about an inch. There - I hope I have described the problem well enough that someone can advise me how to fix this. I think the proper way to fix the rods would be to remove the wooden wedge from each rod, and replace it with another slightly bigger wedge to basically make the rod stay in the arm's hole. Plus maybe a little glue? That could work, depending upon your skill and how much the hole and "rod" differ in size. And yes, use glue. The _best_ glue for the purpose would be thickened epoxy but it sounds as if that might be beyond your skill level; plain old yellow glue would work if hole/"rod" are not too far off in diameter.. A more sure way of accomplishing the fix would to be to drill a hole horizontally through one side of the arm, through the "rod" and part way through he other side of the arm. Insert - with glue - a dowel of the same size as the hole. -- dadiOH From what's described, the plan to wedge and glue sounds right. He plans on removing the wedge that's there, putting in a new wooden one. IDK how easy they are to get out, but if they won't easily come out, might another option be to get some small steel wedges and just drive them in without taking old ones out? Do they make such a thing? |
#12
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Chair Repair Question
In ,
trader_4 typed: On Sunday, January 25, 2015 at 9:55:24 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote: wrote in message I have a LazyBoy recliner chair that needs a fix. I will try to describe the chair, and its problem. The chair has wooden arms with wooden supports three vertical, round 'rods' (my word) each about 10" long and about 2" diameter. The 'rods' go thru round holes in the chair arms. When originally built, the 'rods' look like they were made to stay in the arms by having a small wooden wedge forced into the 'rods' so as to make them stay in place in the arms. Wouldn't you know - the arms have begun to pull off the 'rods'. Put it another way - the 'rods' now portrude thru the arm holes and stick up about an inch. There - I hope I have described the problem well enough that someone can advise me how to fix this. I think the proper way to fix the rods would be to remove the wooden wedge from each rod, and replace it with another slightly bigger wedge to basically make the rod stay in the arm's hole. Plus maybe a little glue? From what's described, the plan to wedge and glue sounds right. He plans on removing the wedge that's there, putting in a new wooden one. IDK how easy they are to get out, but if they won't easily come out, might another option be to get some small steel wedges and just drive them in without taking old ones out? Do they make such a thing? There are small metal wedges that are used to repair loose wooden hammer handles. I just did a Google search for "hammer repair wedge" and saw a lot of links. Then I clicked on Google Images for the same search and saw a lot of images and examples there too. Apparently, they sell these at hardware stores and maybe Home Depot, Lowes, etc. |
#13
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Chair Repair Question
On Sunday, January 25, 2015 at 10:35:26 AM UTC-5, TomR wrote:
In , trader_4 typed: On Sunday, January 25, 2015 at 9:55:24 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote: wrote in message I have a LazyBoy recliner chair that needs a fix. I will try to describe the chair, and its problem. The chair has wooden arms with wooden supports three vertical, round 'rods' (my word) each about 10" long and about 2" diameter. The 'rods' go thru round holes in the chair arms. When originally built, the 'rods' look like they were made to stay in the arms by having a small wooden wedge forced into the 'rods' so as to make them stay in place in the arms. Wouldn't you know - the arms have begun to pull off the 'rods'. Put it another way - the 'rods' now portrude thru the arm holes and stick up about an inch. There - I hope I have described the problem well enough that someone can advise me how to fix this. I think the proper way to fix the rods would be to remove the wooden wedge from each rod, and replace it with another slightly bigger wedge to basically make the rod stay in the arm's hole. Plus maybe a little glue? From what's described, the plan to wedge and glue sounds right. He plans on removing the wedge that's there, putting in a new wooden one. IDK how easy they are to get out, but if they won't easily come out, might another option be to get some small steel wedges and just drive them in without taking old ones out? Do they make such a thing? There are small metal wedges that are used to repair loose wooden hammer handles. That's what I was thinking about, knew I saw them somewhere, but couldn't think of an example. I just did a Google search for "hammer repair wedge" and saw a lot of links. Then I clicked on Google Images for the same search and saw a lot of images and examples there too. Apparently, they sell these at hardware stores and maybe Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Yes, sounds like it might be an option. Unless the old ones are falling out, I'd try to find a suitable metal size one to drive in beside it. Of course you don't want one that's too big.... |
#14
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Chair Repair Question
On Sun, 25 Jan 2015 10:37:23 -0500, "TomR" wrote:
There are small metal wedges that are used to repair loose wooden hammer handles. I wonder if they are not too big and a nail or two of the right length might be better. If he can't get the old wedge out, or doesn't want to for some reason. I just did a Google search for "hammer repair wedge" and saw a lot of links. Then I clicked on Google Images for the same search and saw a lot of images and examples there too. Apparently, they sell these at hardware stores and maybe Home Depot, Lowes, etc. I think I bought one of these once, but I like wooden wedges for hammer handles better. I think the metal one worked in one case but was too thick for most cases. |
#15
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Chair Repair Question
On 1/25/2015 9:55 AM, dadiOH wrote:
A more sure way of accomplishing the fix would to be to drill a hole horizontally through one side of the arm, through the "rod" and part way through he other side of the arm. Insert - with glue - a dowel of the same size as the hole. I had been thinking pilot hole, grease, and wood or machine screw. Small wedges. Apologies, delted the post with the question. Yes, sold for tightening hammer or axe handles. For now, I think gorilla glue has a good chance of success. I have repaired chairs with gorilla glue. I've learned to glue, and sit with the repair for several minutes. The glue expands, and I had to use a razor to trim off the glue that expanded out, before it hardened. - .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
#16
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Chair Repair Question
Stormin Mormon wrote:
.... For now, I think gorilla glue has a good chance of success. I have repaired chairs with gorilla glue. I've learned to glue, and sit with the repair for several minutes. The glue expands, and I had to use a razor to trim off the glue that expanded out, before it hardened. we must be tough on our chairs as i had to redo all of them after first using GG. and yes, i followed the directions... the 2nd time i used epoxy with some flex in it that was wood compatible. no failures since then. songbird |
#17
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Chair Repair Question
On Sun, 25 Jan 2015 11:49:39 -0500, songbird
wrote: the 2nd time i used epoxy with some flex in it that was wood compatible. no failures since then. They make epoxy with flex in it??? Do you remember the brand? |
#18
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Chair Repair Question
micky wrote:
songbird wrote: the 2nd time i used epoxy with some flex in it that was wood compatible. no failures since then. They make epoxy with flex in it??? Do you remember the brand? no, sorry, it was one of those off-the-shelf syringes at the local hardware store so you might find something similar. i'm not talking about rubber cement type flexible, just a type that has a little give to it so it doesn't shatter. most work done was to get the surfaces cleaned up (both times grr!) and then clamping while the glue set. songbird |
#19
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Chair Repair Question
On Sun, 25 Jan 2015 09:55:19 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote: That could work, depending upon your skill and how much the hole and "rod" differ in size. And yes, use glue. The _best_ glue for the purpose would be thickened epoxy but it sounds as if that might be beyond your skill level; plain old yellow glue would work if hole/"rod" are not too far off in diameter.. A more sure way of accomplishing the fix would to be to drill a hole horizontally through one side of the arm, through the "rod" and part way through he other side of the arm. Insert - with glue - a dowel of the same size as the hole. Thought of trying that. I may have to do it. Thanks JW |
#20
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Chair Repair Question
Just for info:
Pianos are tuned by twisting a steel pin that sits in a wood board. Old pianos sometimes have the holes enlarged, or have small splits in the wood, and won't hold a tune, the pins will untwist under the tension of the string. One cure is to remove the pins, redrill the holes, and install bigger pins. But that's expensive and many pianos aren't worth it, or the board isn't in good enough shape. Another cure is to tip the piano over so the board is flat, and drip a bit of crazy glue into the base of each pin. It has to be very thin glue. |
#21
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Chair Repair Question
On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 05:32:38 -0800 (PST), TimR
wrote: Just for info: Pianos are tuned by twisting a steel pin that sits in a wood board. Old pianos sometimes have the holes enlarged, or have small splits in the wood, and won't hold a tune, the pins will untwist under the tension of the string. One cure is to remove the pins, redrill the holes, and install bigger pins. Because of all the snipping and because I don't read Subject lines, only now I see -- a little too late -- that pianos are not the topic of the thread, but since I wrote this all, I'll post it for those of you with pianos. I'm 99% sure you don't always need to redrill the hole. I'm 99% sure that in college, I replaced one pin with a larger one without any drilling. Indeed the piano repairman at the Kimball Piano Company** who gave me the peg didn't say anything about redrilling. I guess the new pin was just a little bit bigger than the old. (I know I had no drill and I didn't drill anything. The only other possibility is that I just tapped the old pin in harder.) Whatever I did, it worked at least until I left Chicago 5 years later. **The repair department was on the 4th or 5th floor of their store on State Street in downtown Chicago. Then I just called up to find out where it was, took the eleveater up and asked a couple questions, and the first guy sort of put me on a tour, to one guy who sent me to the next guy to a total of about four guys, each of whom showed me what he did and gave me parts to use. Then maybe back to the first guy who gave me the address of the wholesale piano parts store in Chcaog and his name to use so I could get 50% off the wholesale price. I'm no poor college student anymore but this stuff might be easily available on the web now, to anyone (at almost retail price, but still cheap. To put in a new peg YOU MUST SUPPORT THE SOUND BOARD ON THE PIANO BOARD 4 INCHES BENEATH IT (assuming it's a grand so the other board is *beneath* it. Beside it for an upright.) Or the sound board will crack and the piano will be worthless. Though the fraternity didn't have much scrap wood, I was lucky enough tofind a block of wood 4x4" or more just the right height that I had to push to get it in place. There was no slack and no extra. And then I still tapped softly, getting gradually a little harder until the pin went in. You'll also probably need new wire for that string. Unless maybe you wrapped the coil around the pin before putting the pin in. I know I restrung one pair of keys but I'm not sure if it was t hat one or another. (In a way it couldnt' have been that one, because if the string were broken, as one was, I couldnt' have tried retightening it.) To get the right wire you need to provide the key, B flat 2 octaves above middle C, or something like that. And you need to provide THE HARP SIZE. Pianos come in several sizes and the harp (I think it is called) size is a letter from A? to E or F reverse-embossed** in the harp, The same diameter string on a different size harp would give a different pitch, so you need the harp size and the key. But some spare too because piano wire is the strongest wire and it might come in handy. Very hard to bend, however. **What's the word for reverse-embossed, where the letter sticks out *away* from the surface? And you'll probably need a tuning wrench. The pegs are square but they're in a crowd and hard to get any other wrench on them. And someone wth a good enough ear to tune them. With multi-string keys, first you dampen all but one string, and tune it, then you tune the other strings to match that oner, listening until the beat frequency disappears. I'm sure more about how to do that is online, but it's worth mentioning that it's impossible to perfectly tune a piano. If you make every third an accurate third and every fifth an accurate fifth, you won't get an accurate octave!!! So tuning is a compromise. I guess that is one reason they came out with the well tempered clavier, in which the frequency ratio between every pair of consecutive keys is the same, iiuc. But the piano is a millon times more popular. I also needed a few ivories and black keys (ebony). IIRC the phone receptionist at Kimballs told me to call Lyon and Healy, and for sure the phone receptionist at Lyon and Healy told me to call their repair location in some industrial n'hood of Chicago. But I didnt have to go there. As soon as I started in on what I wanted he interrupted with What's your address. And he mailed me a big back of used ivories (many with cigarette burns but plenty without too.) and plenty of black keys. I don't know where the rest of the bag is or the rest of the piano wire. I might have left the bag behind on purpose but I know I had the piano wire for several years and I never would have given it away, since before the web, once I left chicago, I had no idea where to buy more. Oh well. But that's expensive and many pianos aren't worth it, or the board isn't in good enough shape. Another cure is to tip the piano over so the board is flat, and drip a bit of crazy glue into the base of each pin. It has to be very thin glue. |
#22
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Chair Repair Question
On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 15:49:12 -0500, micky
wrote: On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 05:32:38 -0800 (PST), TimR wrote: Just for info: Pianos are tuned by twisting a steel pin that sits in a wood board. Old pianos sometimes have the holes enlarged, or have small splits in the wood, and won't hold a tune, the pins will untwist under the tension of the string. One cure is to remove the pins, redrill the holes, and install bigger pins. Because of all the snipping and because I don't read Subject lines, only now I see -- a little too late -- that pianos are not the topic of the thread, but since I wrote this all, I'll post it for those of you with pianos. I'm 99% sure you don't always need to redrill the hole. I'm 99% sure that in college, I replaced one pin with a larger one without any drilling. Indeed the piano repairman at the Kimball Piano Company** who gave me the peg didn't say anything about redrilling. I guess the new pin was just a little bit bigger than the old. (I know I had no drill and I didn't drill anything. The only other possibility is that I just tapped the old pin in harder.) Whatever I did, it worked at least until I left Chicago 5 years later. The tuning pins come in 7 sizes, spanning a total of .030" from SH1 to SH7, so you DEFINITELY do not drill the tuning block!! **The repair department was on the 4th or 5th floor of their store on State Street in downtown Chicago. Then I just called up to find out where it was, took the eleveater up and asked a couple questions, and the first guy sort of put me on a tour, to one guy who sent me to the next guy to a total of about four guys, each of whom showed me what he did and gave me parts to use. Then maybe back to the first guy who gave me the address of the wholesale piano parts store in Chcaog and his name to use so I could get 50% off the wholesale price. I'm no poor college student anymore but this stuff might be easily available on the web now, to anyone (at almost retail price, but still cheap. To put in a new peg YOU MUST SUPPORT THE SOUND BOARD ON THE PIANO BOARD 4 INCHES BENEATH IT (assuming it's a grand so the other board is *beneath* it. Beside it for an upright.) Or the sound board will crack and the piano will be worthless. Though the fraternity didn't have much scrap wood, I was lucky enough tofind a block of wood 4x4" or more just the right height that I had to push to get it in place. There was no slack and no extra. And then I still tapped softly, getting gradually a little harder until the pin went in. You'll also probably need new wire for that string. Unless maybe you wrapped the coil around the pin before putting the pin in. I know I restrung one pair of keys but I'm not sure if it was t hat one or another. (In a way it couldnt' have been that one, because if the string were broken, as one was, I couldnt' have tried retightening it.) To get the right wire you need to provide the key, B flat 2 octaves above middle C, or something like that. And you need to provide THE HARP SIZE. Pianos come in several sizes and the harp (I think it is called) size is a letter from A? to E or F reverse-embossed** in the harp, The same diameter string on a different size harp would give a different pitch, so you need the harp size and the key. But some spare too because piano wire is the strongest wire and it might come in handy. Very hard to bend, however. **What's the word for reverse-embossed, where the letter sticks out *away* from the surface? And you'll probably need a tuning wrench. The pegs are square but they're in a crowd and hard to get any other wrench on them. Never attempt to turn a tuning pin with anythong other than a tuning key, or you will end up replacing tuning pins. And someone wth a good enough ear to tune them. With multi-string keys, first you dampen all but one string, and tune it, then you tune the other strings to match that oner, listening until the beat frequency disappears. I'm sure more about how to do that is online, but it's worth mentioning that it's impossible to perfectly tune a piano. If you make every third an accurate third and every fifth an accurate fifth, you won't get an accurate octave!!! So tuning is a compromise. I guess that is one reason they came out with the well tempered clavier, in which the frequency ratio between every pair of consecutive keys is the same, iiuc. But the piano is a millon times more popular. You can accurately tune a piano with an application on your smart phone - but an "accurately tuned" piano does not sound right. There is a "flavour" I think they call it, to a piano that requires at least some of the strings to be slightly off theoretical tune to sound right. I also needed a few ivories and black keys (ebony). IIRC the phone receptionist at Kimballs told me to call Lyon and Healy, and for sure the phone receptionist at Lyon and Healy told me to call their repair location in some industrial n'hood of Chicago. But I didnt have to go there. As soon as I started in on what I wanted he interrupted with What's your address. And he mailed me a big back of used ivories (many with cigarette burns but plenty without too.) and plenty of black keys. I don't know where the rest of the bag is or the rest of the piano wire. I might have left the bag behind on purpose but I know I had the piano wire for several years and I never would have given it away, since before the web, once I left chicago, I had no idea where to buy more. Oh well. But that's expensive and many pianos aren't worth it, or the board isn't in good enough shape. Another cure is to tip the piano over so the board is flat, and drip a bit of crazy glue into the base of each pin. It has to be very thin glue. |
#23
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#24
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#26
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#27
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Chair Repair Question
On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 05:39:04 -0500, Norminn
wrote: If you have a mallet, some toothpicks and Gorilla wood glue, you may Round or flat? The wood seems entirely different. have a chance ) I would even split a couple of toothpicks, soak them in water for a few minutes to soften them. Apply a couple of pieces of toothpick to the top of the supports and then glue (follow instructions on the glue carefully) and push them into the hole in the arm. Smack the arm down carefully until top of rod is flush with arm. Watch for glue oozing and wipe it carefully. Would also help if there is crusty old glue on the support to scrape that off before beginning the repair. Good luck, and let us know. |
#28
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Chair Repair Question
On 1/26/2015 3:50 PM, micky wrote:
On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 05:39:04 -0500, Norminn wrote: If you have a mallet, some toothpicks and Gorilla wood glue, you may Round or flat? The wood seems entirely different. I don't think it matters....I would start small so you don't risk splitting the arm of the chair....just need to fill a little space left by wood aging and shrinking. The glue will bond it all together and in my experience Gorilla Wood Glue is very strong. It also foams, helping to fill space. Gotta be ready to wipe off the little bit that oozes as it cures. have a chance ) I would even split a couple of toothpicks, soak them in water for a few minutes to soften them. Apply a couple of pieces of toothpick to the top of the supports and then glue (follow instructions on the glue carefully) and push them into the hole in the arm. Smack the arm down carefully until top of rod is flush with arm. Watch for glue oozing and wipe it carefully. Would also help if there is crusty old glue on the support to scrape that off before beginning the repair. Good luck, and let us know. |
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