SOMEONE wrote:

WRONG
take apart a starter and look at it with no power applied.........OPEN
CIRCUIT.......when energized the GLOW heats the bi-metal strip which
CLOSES
this completes the circuit lighting the ends of the lamp. once this
happens
the glow in the starter is extinguished...hence NO HEAT to keep the
bi-metal
strip in the closed posisition (completing the loop) bi-metal strip
returns
to the OPEN posisition the voltage spike ignites the fluorescent lamp
with
the voltage drop across the lamp keeping the glow of the starter from
reigniting.......or if the fluor doesn't start the glow switch (starter)
repeats the cycle.
DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH AS THERE IS A LOT OF WRONG ADVISE BEING GIVEN HERE,
I have been doing lighting for 35+ years and an electrical engineer for 25
of them. If you don't know what your talking about DON'T PRETEND YOU DO.
Herb Harrison
Harrison Lighting & Neon est. 1979 ( yes, I am an expert in this one
area.)
ps...the following was taken fronm fix-ya
According to Sam's F-Lamp FAQ:
The most common fluorescent starter is called a "glow tube starter" (or
just starter) and contains a small gas (neon, etc.) filled tube and an
optional radio frequency interference (RFI) suppression capacitor in a
cylindrical aluminum can with a 2 pin base. While all starters are
physically interchangeable, the wattage rating of the starter should be
matched to the wattage rating of the fluorescent tubes for reliable
operation and long life.
The glow tube incorporates a switch which is normally open. When power is
applied, a glow discharge takes place which heats a bimetal contact. A
second or so later, the contacts close and provide current to the
fluorescent filaments. Since the glow is extinguished, there is no longer
any heating of the bimetal and the contacts open. The inductive kick
generated at the instant of opening triggers the main discharge in the
fluorescent tube. If the contacts open at a bad time, there isn't enough
inductive kick and the process repeats.
"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...




Does anyone know where I can find or can you draw a wiring diagram for
one of these Single push button starters for a 22w circline fluorescent
bulb. It's one where you push the button and hold for 3-5 seconds then
release , then push it again to shut it off. I took this lamp apart a
LOOOONG time ago and finally found the right switch and know can't
remember how to wire it up. The bulb socket has 2 blk wires and 2 white
wires, the switch has 4 contacts. I really want to save this old
industrial magnifying work light, new ones are around $100.00


--

On Monday, December 29, 2014 5:44:04 PM UTC-6, Larry wrote:

Does anyone know where I can find or can you draw a wiring diagram for
one of these Single push button starters for a 22w circline fluorescent
bulb. It's one where you push the button and hold for 3-5 seconds then
release , then push it again to shut it off. I took this lamp apart a
LOOOONG time ago and finally found the right switch and know can't
remember how to wire it up. The bulb socket has 2 blk wires and 2 white
wires, the switch has 4 contacts. I really want to save this old
industrial magnifying work light, new ones are around $100.00

You may have to re-wire this for a 2-wire momentary switch...all the diagrams I have seen were similar to this (replace the starter with a "NO" momentary)
http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/...ps78602628.jpg

The combination on-off and starter switches have two sets of contacts. One set is just a regular on-off switch. The second set of contacts provides the momentary closing to heat the filaments of the tube. When the contacts open when the switch is released, the inductive kick from the ballast/transformer is usually high enough to strike an arc across the tube. The longer the tube, the higher the overall volatage across from one end to the other. The glow starter must not ionize at the voltage that is across the tube, hence the need for various starters to work with various fluorescent tube wattages/lengths.

Larry wrote:
SOMEONE wrote:

WRONG
take apart a starter and look at it with no power applied.........OPEN
CIRCUIT.......when energized the GLOW heats the bi-metal strip which
CLOSES
this completes the circuit lighting the ends of the lamp. once this
happens
the glow in the starter is extinguished...hence NO HEAT to keep the
bi-metal
strip in the closed posisition (completing the loop) bi-metal strip
returns
to the OPEN posisition the voltage spike ignites the fluorescent lamp
with
the voltage drop across the lamp keeping the glow of the starter from
reigniting.......or if the fluor doesn't start the glow switch
(starter) repeats the cycle.
DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH AS THERE IS A LOT OF WRONG ADVISE BEING GIVEN HERE,
I have been doing lighting for 35+ years and an electrical engineer
for 25 of them. If you don't know what your talking about DON'T
PRETEND YOU DO.
Herb Harrison
Harrison Lighting & Neon est. 1979 ( yes, I am an expert in this one
area.)
ps...the following was taken fronm fix-ya
According to Sam's F-Lamp FAQ:
The most common fluorescent starter is called a "glow tube starter"
(or just starter) and contains a small gas (neon, etc.) filled tube
and an optional radio frequency interference (RFI) suppression
capacitor in a cylindrical aluminum can with a 2 pin base. While all
starters are physically interchangeable, the wattage rating of the
starter should be matched to the wattage rating of the fluorescent
tubes for reliable operation and long life.
The glow tube incorporates a switch which is normally open. When power
is applied, a glow discharge takes place which heats a bimetal
contact. A second or so later, the contacts close and provide current
to the fluorescent filaments. Since the glow is extinguished, there is
no longer any heating of the bimetal and the contacts open. The
inductive kick generated at the instant of opening triggers the main
discharge in the fluorescent tube. If the contacts open at a bad time,
there isn't enough inductive kick and the process repeats.
"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...




Does anyone know where I can find or can you draw a wiring diagram for
one of these Single push button starters for a 22w circline fluorescent
bulb. It's one where you push the button and hold for 3-5 seconds then
release , then push it again to shut it off. I took this lamp apart a
LOOOONG time ago and finally found the right switch and know can't
remember how to wire it up. The bulb socket has 2 blk wires and 2 white
wires, the switch has 4 contacts. I really want to save this old
industrial magnifying work light, new ones are around $100.00


Hi,
Reverse engineer yourself. You can't? How come? Take it apart and draw a
schematic yourself you can't why not?

"bob_villa" wrote in message
...
On Monday, December 29, 2014 5:44:04 PM UTC-6, Larry wrote:

Does anyone know where I can find or can you draw a wiring diagram for
one of these Single push button starters for a 22w circline fluorescent
bulb. It's one where you push the button and hold for 3-5 seconds then
release , then push it again to shut it off. I took this lamp apart a
LOOOONG time ago and finally found the right switch and know can't
remember how to wire it up. The bulb socket has 2 blk wires and 2 white
wires, the switch has 4 contacts. I really want to save this old
industrial magnifying work light, new ones are around $100.00

You may have to re-wire this for a 2-wire momentary switch...all the
diagrams I have seen were similar to this (replace the starter with a "NO"
momentary)
http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/...ps78602628.jpg



They're called manual start switches, you dummies.

On Tue, 30 Dec 2014 04:13:23 -0800, "Col. Edmund Burke"
wrote:

"bob_villa" wrote in message
...
On Monday, December 29, 2014 5:44:04 PM UTC-6, Larry wrote:

Does anyone know where I can find or can you draw a wiring diagram for
one of these Single push button starters for a 22w circline fluorescent
bulb. It's one where you push the button and hold for 3-5 seconds then
release , then push it again to shut it off. I took this lamp apart a
LOOOONG time ago and finally found the right switch and know can't
remember how to wire it up. The bulb socket has 2 blk wires and 2 white
wires, the switch has 4 contacts. I really want to save this old
industrial magnifying work light, new ones are around $100.00

You may have to re-wire this for a 2-wire momentary switch...all the
diagrams I have seen were similar to this (replace the starter with a "NO"
momentary)
http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/...ps78602628.jpg


Perhaps the new switch is one half momentary (intended to replace the
starter in the diagram) while the other half replaces the switch in
the "line" at the bottom of the diagram?

Pat is 100% correct!!!!!!!!!!!!

On Tuesday, December 30, 2014 8:53:59 PM UTC-6, wrote:
Pat is 100% correct!!!!!!!!!!!!

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Give that man a cigar!