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tight lug nuts
I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a
wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? |
tight lug nuts
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tight lug nuts
I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. It is a common problem. I've broken/ torn apart factory provided combo jack handles/lug nut removal tools trying to remove lug nuts after tires have been touched by service stations or dealerships. Steve |
tight lug nuts
"J Burns" wrote in message ... I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? Heat it with a small torch. Don't have to get it red hot, just enough to cause some expansion. |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/2014 1:52 AM, J Burns wrote:
I borrowed a 1/2" breaker bar and a 6-point thick-wall socket designed for impact wrenches. I understand one advantage is that if you hammer on the breaker bar, the socket will transmit shock to the wheel around the nut. It seems to transmit the shock pretty well but hasn't worked so far. My BIL has a 3/4" set. I used to use it on farm equipment. That might work. Dadblamed tired dealer! I wonder if the lugs and nuts are permanently damaged from the stress. Wow, that must be tight. Are you pressing down on the wrench, to the left of the lug? I find that works, compared to lifting up to the right. On lug nuts. If the wheels are aluminum, the tire places want to recheck the lugs after 25 to 50 miles. This is a real concern. I did a rear wheel brake pad slap one time, and figured they were fine. Two days later, I had a rather serious shake. Took it to my garage, and he noted that the right front tire was out of round. On the way to the junkyard to get another tire, the left rear fell off. Mechanic had not asked if I did anything to the wheels lately "Well, replace brake pads in the back" and had not pulled the snap caps to see if the lugs were tight. I share the blame, I didn't recheck torque after 50 miles. -- .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
tight lug nuts
"J Burns" wrote in message ...
I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? A few years ago a tire on my Toyota truck was losing air. When I tried (with helpers) to remove the wheel, two of the six lugs snapped off and we couldn't budge the other four. To make a long story short, I was later told that Toyota (and I think Mazda) were notorious for using soft metal on their lugs which could be easily cross-threaded and essentially welded to the nut. So in addition to replacing the tire I had all 24 lugs replaced. |
tight lug nuts --hot wax method
On 9/24/2014 1:52 AM, J Burns wrote:
I borrowed a 1/2" breaker bar and a 6-point thick-wall socket designed for impact wrenches. I understand one advantage is that if you hammer on the breaker bar, the socket will transmit shock to the wheel around the nut. It seems to transmit the shock pretty well but hasn't worked so far. Years ago, someone mentioned the hot wax method. When a nut and bolt is rotted on, the trick to heat it up with a torch. Of course, mechanics the world around use heat. But the trick is as it's cooling, light a candle and drip wax onto the thread. At first, the wax disappears into vapor. But as it cools, it gets to the magic temperature. The wax sucks into the threads, and acts as a lubricant. Wax is slippery, try rubbing a candle some time, to see for yourself. I've not tried this, though I have wondered if there is any truth to this. I'd really love to know if this works or not. Please try it, just to humor an old man. BTW, I did try soaking a totally rusted pair of fence pliers in concentrated hydrochloric acid. It did eat the rust off, and now I've got a working pair of pliers. I never thought that would work. .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
tight lug nuts
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 7:48:05 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
"J Burns" wrote in message ... I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? A few years ago a tire on my Toyota truck was losing air. When I tried (with helpers) to remove the wheel, two of the six lugs snapped off and we couldn't budge the other four. To make a long story short, I was later told that Toyota (and I think Mazda) were notorious for using soft metal on their lugs which could be easily cross-threaded and essentially welded to the nut. So in addition to replacing the tire I had all 24 lugs replaced. A friend of mine had the lug bolts put on his car super tight by a tire place too. He went back to complain. The manager came out with a torque wrench, showed him what the wrench was set to, then put it on one of the bolts, applied pressure until the wrench clicked. Whereupon he said "See, that shows that they are torqued to the right amount". Which goes to show you, even the right eqpt is useless in the hands of an idiot. Personally, I use an electric impact wrench and just do it based on experience. Haven't had a problem yet. |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/2014 7:48 AM, snafu wrote:
A few years ago a tire on my Toyota truck was losing air. When I tried (with helpers) to remove the wheel, two of the six lugs snapped off and we couldn't budge the other four. To make a long story short, I was later told that Toyota (and I think Mazda) were notorious for using soft metal on their lugs which could be easily cross-threaded and essentially welded to the nut. So in addition to replacing the tire I had all 24 lugs replaced. My friend (who's not all that wise some times) had a Buick station wagon for hauling his wife and kids. Fondly called the BMW, Big Mormon Wagon. One time he bought a set of the small steel lug nuts, because "didn't like" the tall lug nuts with the closed tops. With the decorator aluminum wheels, they have a deep well for the lug nuts. I told him that was a terrible idea. Anyhow, the steel lugs were so far down in, a wrench or socket tip didn't engage enough of the lug to remove them. We were able to remove all but a couple, and he ended up grinding the lug and stud off with my die grinder from HF. Remove the wheel, go to the store and buy new studs to bang in. And then go back to the tall lug nuts. .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
tight lug nuts
On Wed, 24 Sep 2014 07:39:33 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 9/24/2014 1:31 AM, wrote: I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? A 3/4" impact wrench will spin them off but you should be able to crack them loose with a breaker bar and your pipe. Use a 6 point socket. I second the motion, to have the last mechanic sent to prison, or at least reeducation camp. I've had some success with 25 inch breaker bar, and black impact sockets. No clue what it is with mechanics who think that max tight is the only way to go. . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org . They are NOT mechanics - they are untrained tire installers.- AKA hacks. |
tight lug nuts
On Wed, 24 Sep 2014 07:13:37 -0400, Steve Stone
wrote: I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. It is a common problem. I've broken/ torn apart factory provided combo jack handles/lug nut removal tools trying to remove lug nuts after tires have been touched by service stations or dealerships. Steve As a dealership service manager I'd spot-check the torque on wheel nuts after the mechanic was finished a job. Random selection of a few a week. Heaven help the guy who under-torqued or over-torqued a wheel!!! I started this after a customer lost a wheel less than 3 miles from the shop. It never happened again. They guys were VERY carefull to make sure all wheels were properly torqued. They'd run them on with the impact on the hoist, drop the vehicle to the ground- retorque with the torque wrench, then install the wheel covers if so equipped. |
tight lug nuts
On Wed, 24 Sep 2014 07:48:05 -0400, "snafu"
wrote: "J Burns" wrote in message ... I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? A few years ago a tire on my Toyota truck was losing air. When I tried (with helpers) to remove the wheel, two of the six lugs snapped off and we couldn't budge the other four. To make a long story short, I was later told that Toyota (and I think Mazda) were notorious for using soft metal on their lugs which could be easily cross-threaded and essentially welded to the nut. So in addition to replacing the tire I had all 24 lugs replaced. Toyota had no more problems with soft lug bolts than anyone else. Perhaps some problems with soft alloy lug NUTS - but not any worse than any other company in my experience. We always lubed the studs before installing the nuts - just a light touch of anti-seize. |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/2014 7:59 AM, trader_4 wrote:
A friend of mine had the lug bolts put on his car super tight by a tire place too. He went back to complain. The manager came out with a torque wrench, showed him what the wrench was set to, then put it on one of the bolts, applied pressure until the wrench clicked. Whereupon he said "See, that shows that they are torqued to the right amount". Hope the friend asked the manager to loosen all the lugs and then retorque. Agree, about the idiot part. .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/2014 8:20 AM, wrote:
As a dealership service manager I'd spot-check the torque on wheel nuts after the mechanic was finished a job. Random selection of a few a week. Heaven help the guy who under-torqued or over-torqued a wheel!!! I started this after a customer lost a wheel less than 3 miles from the shop. It never happened again. They guys were VERY carefull to make sure all wheels were properly torqued. They'd run them on with the impact on the hoist, drop the vehicle to the ground- retorque with the torque wrench, then install the wheel covers if so equipped. Did you ask the customers to bring in their aluminum wheels the next day for retorque? .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/2014 7:59 AM, trader_4 wrote:
A friend of mine had the lug bolts put on his car super tight by a tire place too. He went back to complain. The manager came out with a torque wrench, showed him what the wrench was set to, then put it on one of the bolts, applied pressure until the wrench clicked. Whereupon he said "See, that shows that they are torqued to the right amount". Which goes to show you, even the right eqpt is useless in the hands of an idiot. Personally, I use an electric impact wrench and just do it based on experience. Haven't had a problem yet. He may be an idiot using that demo, but . . . Don't blame the installer. I had lug bolts om my Karmann Ghia. I'd put them on with very little torque, but they'd be a bear to get off later. I'd have to put a pipe on the socket bar and jump on it for some. The bolts and holes were perfectly machined. You could put them in by hand to the last 1/8th turn with the wrench. |
tight lug nuts
On Wed, 24 Sep 2014 01:52:32 -0400, J Burns wrote:
On 9/24/14, 1:31 AM, wrote: On Wed, 24 Sep 2014 01:21:24 -0400, J Burns wrote: I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? A 3/4" impact wrench will spin them off but you should be able to crack them loose with a breaker bar and your pipe. Use a 6 point socket. I borrowed a 1/2" breaker bar and a 6-point thick-wall socket designed for impact wrenches. I understand one advantage is that if you hammer on the breaker bar, the socket will transmit shock to the wheel around the nut. It seems to transmit the shock pretty well but hasn't worked so far. My BIL has a 3/4" set. I used to use it on farm equipment. That might work. Dadblamed tired dealer! I wonder if the lugs and nuts are permanently damaged from the stress. An air impact wrench will probably loosen them. I would take it back to the tire shop, have them break the nuts loose and torque them myself before leaving. If you do not have a torque wrench, then use a cross wrench to retighten until you can get to a wrench. Most lug nuts tighten 76 to 80 ftlbs torque. You will have a real problem if you have a flat on the road. -- Mr.E |
tight lug nuts --hot wax method
On Wed, 24 Sep 2014 04:49:34 -0700, Stormin Mormon
wrote: ...snip... BTW, I did try soaking a totally rusted pair of fence pliers in concentrated hydrochloric acid. It did eat the rust off, and now I've got a working pair of pliers. I never thought that would work. ...snip... I accidently misplaced my very expensive Krauter electric pliers outside, then found them a year later seized solid. just kept them mourning their loss. Then, after watching the 'remetallization' process our Brulin's quaternary sanitizer was doing [Unicide 256] soaked the pliers in the compound,not only did some/much of the rust turn back into metal, but the pliers started to open very stiffly. Kept working on them and now have my pliers back! Have you ever tried Whink [mild hydrofluoric acid] to remove rust? Be sure to wear gloves! Eats under your fingernails, but you don't realize it until an hour later when it feels like your nails are being constantly ripped off. So mild doesn't do much damage to porcelain - tried to etch glass and it won't. |
tight lug nuts --hot wax method
On 9/24/2014 9:43 AM, RobertMacy wrote:
I accidently misplaced my very expensive Krauter electric pliers outside, then found them a year later seized solid. just kept them mourning their loss. Then, after watching the 'remetallization' process our Brulin's quaternary sanitizer was doing [Unicide 256] soaked the pliers in the compound,not only did some/much of the rust turn back into metal, but the pliers started to open very stiffly. Kept working on them and now have my pliers back! Have you ever tried Whink [mild hydrofluoric acid] to remove rust? Be sure to wear gloves! Eats under your fingernails, but you don't realize it until an hour later when it feels like your nails are being constantly ripped off. So mild doesn't do much damage to porcelain - tried to etch glass and it won't. Nice to know some thing works. As for HF acid, I refuse to get near the stuff. Some HVAC guys use that on coils, since they end up looking shiny and bright. I like the alkaline cleaner, which works nicely. -- .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
tight lug nuts
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tight lug nuts
On 09/23/2014 10:21 PM, J Burns wrote:
I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? I learned this same lesson years ago after a tire shop over-torqued my lugnuts after I bought some new tires. As a result, I now specify the torque I want them set to, which is on the low side of the recommended torque. They have me sign a waiver, and when I get it home I double-check the torque and push it a little higher to the middle of the range. Jon |
tight lug nuts
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tight lug nuts
J Burns wrote:
I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? Hi, You don't have impact wrench? Now you used oil and they're all no good.Must be a small old vehicle. If you don't have compressor, how about trying electric impact wrench? Can't rent/borrrow one? |
tight lug nuts
Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/24/2014 1:52 AM, J Burns wrote: I borrowed a 1/2" breaker bar and a 6-point thick-wall socket designed for impact wrenches. I understand one advantage is that if you hammer on the breaker bar, the socket will transmit shock to the wheel around the nut. It seems to transmit the shock pretty well but hasn't worked so far. My BIL has a 3/4" set. I used to use it on farm equipment. That might work. Dadblamed tired dealer! I wonder if the lugs and nuts are permanently damaged from the stress. Wow, that must be tight. Are you pressing down on the wrench, to the left of the lug? I find that works, compared to lifting up to the right. On lug nuts. If the wheels are aluminum, the tire places want to recheck the lugs after 25 to 50 miles. This is a real concern. I did a rear wheel brake pad slap one time, and figured they were fine. Two days later, I had a rather serious shake. Took it to my garage, and he noted that the right front tire was out of round. On the way to the junkyard to get another tire, the left rear fell off. Hi, You buy tire from junk yard? You put your life on the line with junk tire?, LOL! Mechanic had not asked if I did anything to the wheels lately "Well, replace brake pads in the back" and had not pulled the snap caps to see if the lugs were tight. I share the blame, I didn't recheck torque after 50 miles. |
tight lug nuts --hot wax method
Stormin Mormon wrote:
BTW, I did try soaking a totally rusted pair of fence pliers in concentrated hydrochloric acid. It did eat the rust off, and now I've got a working pair of pliers. I never thought that would work. Next time, try phosphoric acid. You can find it in the masonry section of a big box store since it's used to etch concrete. The advantages are that it will attack rust and not the underlying metal so you can leave the item in the acid without worrying and it leaves a phosphate coating that inhibits rust. With hydrochloric, you have a super clean, etched surface that will rust in front of your eyes if you don't get some sort of protective barrier on. If you read the ingredients in Coke, you'll find phosphoric acid which is probably why it's alleged to be a rust remover. I wouldn't drink the stuff straight but it's far less aggressive than hydorchloric. |
tight lug nuts
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I share the blame, I didn't recheck torque after 50 miles. I never had a problem with the alloy wheels I run. |
tight lug nuts
J Burns wrote:
Dadblamed tired dealer! I wonder if the lugs and nuts are permanently damaged from the stress. Be happy. I think even Chrysler Corporation gave up on the left handed threads. Those were a barrel of laughs for the uninitiated. |
tight lug nuts
On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:21:24 PM UTC-7, J Burns wrote:
I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? BTDT. I had a flat with an old F150, Miracle of miracles the toy jack that came with the truck worked. I had a cruciform lug wrench. No way could I break any of the lugs loose. Called for road service. Unfortunately it was harvest season and every service truck in the town was backed up on calls. Mechanic finally came out in private car. He at least had a cheater and managed to get all but one loose after an hours work. Finally had wait until a tow truck showed up. He couldn't get the last one either. Finally lifted truck and dropped breaking that lug. That lug had been cross threaded but driven tight with the rattle gun. The usual problem is the tire shops don't reset the torque wrenches after working on big equipment. Watch them sometime and at a good shop (mine is a very good one) you will see them apply the rattle gun then pick up a real torque wrench, apply 'click', yep it is tight. Unfortunately, yes it _is_ tight. But that 'click' only says that the nut has been tightened to AT LEAST the torque setting when in fact it has been way overtightened. The last time the setting on the rattle gun was changed was to use it on some big semi. I wrote the shop and long letter explaining what had happened. My tire shop removed and reinstalled all 4 wheels, replaced the broken stud and the next time I had a flat all lugs came off with normal pressure. Harry K |
tight lug nuts
rbowman wrote:
wrote: Toyota had no more problems with soft lug bolts than anyone else. Perhaps some problems with soft alloy lug NUTS - but not any worse than any other company in my experience. We always lubed the studs before installing the nuts - just a light touch of anti-seize. Despite some instructions I've seen I always use a little anti-sieze. I haven't had a wheel fall off in the last 50 years and I've had no problems removing the lugs or nuts. I rotate the tires or change out to the winter studs myself so there's no problem. On the rare occasions where I buy tires, the first thing I do when I get home is retorque the fasteners. I've hit a few that required the impact wrench. I'd bought a Harbor Freight electric impact wrench specifically to break loose the bolts on a notorcycle fork's damper tubes, but it has come in handy several times. For a tool that gets used once or twice a year at the outside I've gotten my money's worth. I have a decent compressor in my garage runs off 220V. Used to change over tires between seasons and blow the sprinklers in the fall. Never had to use any thing on wheel nut/stud on 3 vehicles other than proper torquing. |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/2014 10:06 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote: serious shake. Took it to my garage, and he noted that the right front tire was out of round. On the way to the junkyard to get another tire, the left rear fell off. Hi, You buy tire from junk yard? You put your life on the line with junk tire?, LOL! They worked for the last guy. -- .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
tight lug nuts --hot wax method
On 9/24/2014 10:06 AM, rbowman wrote:
Next time, try phosphoric acid. You can find it in the masonry section of a big box store since it's used to etch concrete. The advantages are that it will attack rust and not the underlying metal so you can leave the item in the acid without worrying and it leaves a phosphate coating that inhibits rust. With hydrochloric, you have a super clean, etched surface that will rust in front of your eyes if you don't get some sort of protective barrier on. If you read the ingredients in Coke, you'll find phosphoric acid which is probably why it's alleged to be a rust remover. I wouldn't drink the stuff straight but it's far less aggressive than hydorchloric. HCL did the job, I had some on hand, and the experiment was a success. Why would I try some thing different? Does phosphoric work better? I guess you do mention a couple advantages. I put some oil on the fence pliers, and they are still good. -- .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
tight lug nuts
"J Burns" wrote in message ... I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? Years ago I had Sears install snow tires on my truck. Was on a back rough road and had a flat. I was bending my 4 way lug wrench. No results. Drove into town to a station I bought gas from. They finely got the nuts off with an impact wrench. Never bought tires from Sears again.......WW |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/14, 7:19 AM, Ken Olson wrote:
"J Burns" wrote in message ... I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? Heat it with a small torch. Don't have to get it red hot, just enough to cause some expansion. Heat sounds good. Steel expands 7 millionths per degree F, so boiling hot might be enough. Now I've got to find a place that sells those little propane tanks. I left the torch head on my last tank, and the valve leaked. |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/14, 10:03 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
J Burns wrote: I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge. They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the other. I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic. Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison? Hi, You don't have impact wrench? Now you used oil and they're all no good.Must be a small old vehicle. If you don't have compressor, how about trying electric impact wrench? Can't rent/borrrow one? If you mean the kind of wrench you hit with a hammer, I have two. I think one has a 1/2" drive. I never had much luck with it in the past, but I'll look for it. Now that I've used oil, does that mean my lugs and nuts are no good? When I reinstalled the first 15 with a torque wrench, I discovered that the L wrench that came with the car gives the right torque "by feel." How about that! |
I've read most of this tread and I only have three comments:
1. I also use anti-seize compound on wheel lugs and have never had any problems doing that. 2. I also buy tires from auto wrecking yards. A good set of tires should last a good 10 years or more, and often that car with the new tires gets into an accident after only one or two years with those new tires. It's the auto wrecking yard that inherits those tires when they bring the smashed up car in, and generally the tires are an excellent buy. 3. In regard to the OP's problem with the overtightened lug nut, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned Torque Sticks so far in this thread. Torque Sticks, Torque Sockets and Other Discount Tools Torque Sticks are 1/2 inch drive extension bars that are machined to precise diameters so that they act very much like a torsion bar spring. You simply put the Torque Stick in between your impact wrench and the socket you use to drive the lug nut, and it tightens the lug nut to a predetermined torque depending on the Torque Stick you're using. That is, you simply put the Torque Stick on the impact wrench, and then the impact socket on the Torque Stick and tighten the lug nuts. The Torque Stick will tighten the lug nuts up to a predetermined torque, after which the twisting of the Torque Stick will absorb the impacts of the impact wrench, and the lug nut won't be tightened any further. The OP needs to go back to the place that overtightened his lug nuts and explain to them how their using Torque Sticks is good business practice because it will keep customers from throwing Molotov cocktails through their business' front window. Here in Winnipeg, it's rare to see a garage that DOESN'T use Torque Sticks when replacing the wheels on a car. |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/2014 11:46 AM, J Burns wrote:
You don't have impact wrench? Now you used oil and they're all no good.Must be a small old vehicle. If you don't have compressor, how about trying electric impact wrench? Can't rent/borrrow one? If you mean the kind of wrench you hit with a hammer, I have two. I think one has a 1/2" drive. I never had much luck with it in the past, but I'll look for it. CY: More likely this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...nch-45252.html Now that I've used oil, does that mean my lugs and nuts are no good? CY: Some oil won't hurt. When I reinstalled the first 15 with a torque wrench, I discovered that the L wrench that came with the car gives the right torque "by feel." How about that! CY: That's good news. So, how do you know that? .. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .. |
tight lug nuts
On 09/24/2014 11:46 AM, J Burns wrote:
When I reinstalled the first 15 with a torque wrench, I discovered that the L wrench that came with the car gives the right torque "by feel." How about that! I read a while ago that many mechanics don't use a torque wrench: they use a well-calibrated elbow. The one time I used a torque wrench on a crucial part, the thread in the aluminum casting stripped before I got to the specified torque -- had to get the car towed to a repair shop and have a Helicoil inserted. Perce |
tight lug nuts
I repair roll laminating machines that apply plastic to paper. Every now and then I find a machine I CAN NOT loosen the allen screws on:( drilling them out, ruining sprockets and other parts are a heal pain.
Occasionally the DIY repair person reports I always know when the allen scres are tight, since they go click click click:( Very expensive for the machines owner:( |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/14, 7:19 AM, Ken Olson wrote:
Heat it with a small torch. Don't have to get it red hot, just enough to cause some expansion. Twerked! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHitWbFIfaY |
tight lug nuts
On 9/24/14, 11:58 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/24/2014 11:46 AM, J Burns wrote: When I reinstalled the first 15 with a torque wrench, I discovered that the L wrench that came with the car gives the right torque "by feel." How about that! CY: That's good news. So, how do you know that? Nissan specifies 58-72 foot pounds. I set one to 64 with a torque wrench, loosened it half a turn, and tightened it by feel with the OEM wrench. The nut rotated to the same position. I tried it with other nuts with the same results. As I would not be pushing on the pry-blade end of the 10" wrench, I was probably exerting 80-100 pounds, as much as would be comfortable on that handle. More than that, I think you can usually feel when a screw seats. Suddenly, it's less elastic. |
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