Hey, I have a 90 degree pipe for a toilet flange sticking out of the concrete about 1 1/2 inches.
So I bought a PVC, cast iron replacement flange. the one with the compression ring around it.
I then cut the pipe level with the floor, but since it was a 90 degree elbow, it didn't go straight down,but curved. So then I bought a bunch, maybe 3 different flanges to see if any would go in. One of them went in but obvious it wasn't tight to the outside of the pipe. Then I went and bought a 45 and 90 degree pipe to see which one would fit in the existing 4" pipe the best. Neither did but cutting off the top 1 1/2 inch, it will fit in the pipe with about 3/16 inch space around it.
The question then is: Would it be better to put silicone caulk in the space to hold the pipe in place or an epoxy? Then the flange can get PVC glued in to it. I hope the question is clear.
Thanks!
D

On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 8:07:50 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Hey, I have a 90 degree pipe for a toilet flange sticking out of the concrete about 1 1/2 inches.

So I bought a PVC, cast iron replacement flange. the one with the compression ring around it.

I then cut the pipe level with the floor, but since it was a 90 degree elbow, it didn't go straight down,but curved. So then I bought a bunch, maybe 3 different flanges to see if any would go in. One of them went in but obvious it wasn't tight to the outside of the pipe. Then I went and bought a 45 and 90 degree pipe to see which one would fit in the existing 4" pipe the best. Neither did but cutting off the top 1 1/2 inch, it will fit in the pipe with about 3/16 inch space around it.

The question then is: Would it be better to put silicone caulk in the space to hold the pipe in place or an epoxy? Then the flange can get PVC glued in to it. I hope the question is clear.

Thanks!

D

I'd work on the flange to make it fit. Can't you you trim it some to get it to fit?

Otherwise I'd not sure. Neither filler will "melt" into the pvc like a normal joint does. I am a big fan of epoxy so I guess that would probably be my choice. Rough up the surfaces if you do this. You can mix stuff like microballoons or chopped fiberglass to the epoxy to make it thick.

wrote:
Hey, I have a 90 degree pipe for a toilet flange sticking out of the
concrete about 1 1/2 inches.
So I bought a PVC, cast iron replacement flange. the one with the
compression ring around it.
I then cut the pipe level with the floor, but since it was a 90 degree
elbow, it didn't go straight down,but curved. So then I bought a bunch,
maybe 3 different flanges to see if any would go in. One of them went in
but obvious it wasn't tight to the outside of the pipe. Then I went and
bought a 45 and 90 degree pipe to see which one would fit in the existing
4" pipe the best. Neither did but cutting off the top 1 1/2 inch, it will
fit in the pipe with about 3/16 inch space around it.
The question then is: Would it be better to put silicone caulk in the
space to hold the pipe in place or an epoxy? Then the flange can get PVC
glued in to it. I hope the question is clear.
Thanks!
D

You said: "So I bought a PVC, cast iron replacement flange"

I'm confused. Is the existing pipe that comes out of the floor cast iron or
PVC?

If the existing pipe is cast, a PVC flange can be leaded in. I think that
would be better than either caulk or epoxy. You might consider calling a
plumber that has the skills to lead the PVC fittings to the cast to ensure
a firm connection.

It's a concrete floor. Just form around the toilet and pour a couple inches of lightweight concrete slab on top.

Oh, you already cut off the pipe?

Glue it back on.

I would get all the pieces ready for final assembly, including the wax seal and the hold-down bolts. I would then use copious amounts of silicone rubber on everything in sight, except the wax seal itself. I would even put silicone rubber around the perimeter of the wax seal, so that once the rubber cured, there would be no way for any moisture to escape from the pipe conglomeration. I would then bolt the toilet down, maybe within 1/8 inch of totally bolted down, and then leave things alone for 24 hours. I would then finish tightening the hold-down bolts. Short of a 300 pound person rocking the toilet, or an earthquake, yuou should have a fine installation.

For extra insurance, you could also run a bead of silicone rubber around the perimeter of the base of the toilet. Since it is on a slab, there is no danger of any escaped moisture rotting the floorboards.

Hey, I have a 90 degree pipe for a toilet flange sticking out of the
concrete about 1 1/2 inches. So I bought a PVC, cast iron replacement
flange. the one with the compression ring around it. I then cut the
pipe level with the floor, but since it was a 90 degree elbow, it
didn't go straight down,but curved. So then I bought a bunch, maybe 3
different flanges to see if any would go in. One of them went in but
obvious it wasn't tight to the outside of the pipe. Then I went and
bought a 45 and 90 degree pipe to see which one would fit in the
existing 4" pipe the best. Neither did but cutting off the top 1 1/2
inch, it will fit in the pipe with about 3/16 inch space around it.
The question then is: Would it be better to put silicone caulk in the
space to hold the pipe in place or an epoxy? Then the flange can get
PVC glued in to it. I hope the question is clear.

I wonder if a 3" elbow would take less space than a 4" elbow?

You could bust out the concrete around the existing elbow, and transition
the 3" elbow to the 4" pipe under the floor. It might give you that extra
inch or so for the closet flange to fit properly. Then mix up a bag of two
of concrete and patch the floor. You could wrap some foam or something
around the top of the pipe that you could remove after the concrete sets.
This would let you slip a normal flange on the pipe.

It would be a bit more involved, but probably more reliable than trying to
hack a sloppy fit with the current setup.

Of course, I would compare a 3" elbow and 4" elbow at the store to see if
there's any real difference in height before I start busting out concrete.


Good luck!

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

On Thu, 12 Jun 2014 21:14:19 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:


For extra insurance, you could also run a bead of silicone rubber around the perimeter of the base of the toilet. Since it is on a slab, there is no danger of any escaped moisture rotting the floorboards.

Some toilets have a notch on the base in the back. I'd not seal that,
even on a slab foundation. It the throat of the bowl cracks
(hairline) it allows water out the back, so you know something is
wrong or the toilet may need to be replaced. Without a notch in the
back, I'd leave ~ 2 inches without caulk so water could seep out. YMMV