SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional
Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder and
it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"...

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in and
outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's nothing else
mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top seam and most
of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to separate.

On the most outside of chances, anybody's missus/daughters/whomever got
one of these buggers and managed to make a repair?

I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared
to try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any
chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front and
rear screws were miniscule...

--

dpb wrote:
SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional
Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder
and it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"...

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in
and outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's
nothing else mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top
seam and most of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to
separate.
On the most outside of chances, anybody's missus/daughters/whomever
got one of these buggers and managed to make a repair?

I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared
to try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any
chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front
and rear screws were miniscule...

It probably just has little mechanical "catches" along the problematic joined
edges, like lots of electronics these days. Prying just the right way should pop
it open. The right way would have to be determined experimentally.

On Sun, 8 Jun 2014 13:46:30 -0700, "Bob F" wrote:

dpb wrote:
SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional
Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder
and it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"...

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in
and outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's
nothing else mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top
seam and most of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to
separate.
On the most outside of chances, anybody's missus/daughters/whomever
got one of these buggers and managed to make a repair?

I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared
to try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any
chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front
and rear screws were miniscule...

It probably just has little mechanical "catches" along the problematic joined

That's what I was going to say. If'n you break any off, we can discuss
high temp glue in a later thread (PC-7, white, and PC-11, grey) but
you probably won't break any and if only one, no problem.

If there is a stuck on label, look under that for another screw.

edges, like lots of electronics these days. Prying just the right way should pop
it open. The right way would have to be determined experimentally.

LOL

On Sun, 08 Jun 2014 14:53:43 -0500, dpb wrote:

SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional
Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder and
it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"...

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in and
outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's nothing else
mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top seam and most
of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to separate.

On the most outside of chances, anybody's missus/daughters/whomever got
one of these buggers and managed to make a repair?

I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared
to try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any
chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front and
rear screws were miniscule...

The only "secret" is how much brute force is necessary. Think about
it... how ****ed would she be if you totally mutilated her wimpy hair
dryer? This would then be the perfect opportunity for you to buy, and
offer to share, that STIHL leaf blower you've been drooling over. Just
think how much quicker she'll be able to dry her hair!

On 6/8/2014 3:53 PM, dpb wrote:
SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional
Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder and
it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"...

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in and
outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's nothing else
mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top seam and most
of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to separate.

You don't own a Sawzall?

On 6/8/14, 2:53 PM, dpb wrote:
SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional
Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

Some cut.

I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared
to try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any
chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front and
rear screws were miniscule...

Would squeezing one part or the other with channel locks or such
help? It might let you see what you have to contend with.
My dad would call them water pump pliers for some reason.

On 6/8/2014 8:16 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
....

Would squeezing one part or the other with channel locks or such help?
It might let you see what you have to contend with.
My dad would call them water pump pliers for some reason.

I'm not sure...the portion that is together doesn't seem to have any
vertical play.

In olden days one of the primary uses for them was to tighten packing
gland nut on automotive water pumps from whence came the name...it's
been a long, long time since pumps were so primitive; now you can't even
rebuild one and the one on the 3.8L turns out is just an impeller on the
cover plate; the involute and all is cast into the block. I suppose
most newer are now; it was the first I'd had to mess with in probably 20
years....

--

On 6/8/2014 7:57 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/8/2014 3:53 PM, dpb wrote:
SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional
Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder and
it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"...

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in and
outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's nothing else
mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top seam and most
of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to separate.

You don't own a Sawzall?

I've thought about the hacksaw blade, yes...

--

On 6/8/2014 4:55 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
....

The only "secret" is how much brute force is necessary. Think about
it... how ****ed would she be if you totally mutilated her wimpy hair
dryer? This would then be the perfect opportunity for you to buy, and
offer to share, that STIHL leaf blower you've been drooling over. Just
think how much quicker she'll be able to dry her hair!

She'd probably be less ****ed than I, truthfully...I've pried with
enough force using a small pry bar between the two halves that it feels
more like it's likely the whole case/handle is going to break rather
than come apart...but, it's no less functional if does than at present,
anyway, just likely irreversible at that point.

--

On Sunday, June 8, 2014 12:53:43 PM UTC-7, dpb wrote:
SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional

Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.



If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder and

it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"...



There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in and

outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's nothing else

mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top seam and most

of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to separate.



On the most outside of chances, anybody's missus/daughters/whomever got

one of these buggers and managed to make a repair?



I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared

to try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.



Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any

chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front and

rear screws were miniscule...



--

Try the newsgroup sci.electronics.repair

dpb wrote:
On 6/8/2014 4:55 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
...

The only "secret" is how much brute force is necessary. Think about
it... how ****ed would she be if you totally mutilated her wimpy hair
dryer? This would then be the perfect opportunity for you to buy,
and offer to share, that STIHL leaf blower you've been drooling
over. Just think how much quicker she'll be able to dry her hair!

She'd probably be less ****ed than I, truthfully...I've pried with
enough force using a small pry bar between the two halves that it
feels more like it's likely the whole case/handle is going to break
rather than come apart...but, it's no less functional if does than at
present, anyway, just likely irreversible at that point.

Think about prying to move one side or the other inward, to detach the latches.
Which side you need to move inward has to be determined experimentally. All
assuming I'm right about the mechanical latches being what holds it together.

dpb wrote:
SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional
Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder and
it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"...

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in and
outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's nothing else
mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top seam and most of
that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to separate.

On the most outside of chances, anybody's missus/daughters/whomever got
one of these buggers and managed to make a repair?

I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared to
try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any
chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front and
rear screws were miniscule...

--

Any screws hidden under emblems or other.

Greg

"dpb" wrote in message news:ln2evo$852

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any
chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front and
rear screws were miniscule...

If the plastic is translucent I've had some success with threading a small
but bright LED into the case to "candle" it and try to determine where the
latches are. My guess is that you have some sort of hook and eye latch
along the seam that needs to be squeezed to "pop" open. Sometimes I end up
having to take a thin Dremel cutoff wheel to cut along the seam when I can
feel an obstruction but can't figure out a way to push to open - until I cut
it open and see! That's when I realize how easy it would have been to open
without cutting. A true Catch-22.

I'd also look hard for hidden screws under rubber plugs, warranty labels or
fascia plates.

--
Bobby G.

dpb wrote:
On 6/8/2014 4:55 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
...

The only "secret" is how much brute force is necessary. Think about
it... how ****ed would she be if you totally mutilated her wimpy hair
dryer? This would then be the perfect opportunity for you to buy, and
offer to share, that STIHL leaf blower you've been drooling over. Just
think how much quicker she'll be able to dry her hair!

She'd probably be less ****ed than I, truthfully...I've pried with enough
force using a small pry bar between the two halves that it feels more
like it's likely the whole case/handle is going to break rather than come
apart...but, it's no less functional if does than at present, anyway,
just likely irreversible at that point.

--

Ultrasonic weld?

dpb,

It's already broken so you can do whatever you want to it. Often the cord
enters the housing at the base of the handle. If you carefully cut off 1/2"
of the handle then you will expose the power cord and may be able to solder
on a new cord. Fill the base of the handle with epoxy and you are done.
Focusing on prying apart the hair dryer isn't getting you anywhere but
after you cut off the handle base you can look inside for tabs.

Dave M.

On 6/9/2014 6:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
wrote:
On 6/8/2014 4:55 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
...

The only "secret" is how much brute force is necessary. Think about
it... how ****ed would she be if you totally mutilated her wimpy hair
dryer? This would then be the perfect opportunity for you to buy, and
offer to share, that STIHL leaf blower you've been drooling over. Just
think how much quicker she'll be able to dry her hair!

She'd probably be less ****ed than I, truthfully...I've pried with enough
force using a small pry bar between the two halves that it feels more
like it's likely the whole case/handle is going to break rather than come
apart...but, it's no less functional if does than at present, anyway,
just likely irreversible at that point.
....

Ultrasonic weld?

I'm beginning to think a possibility as it doesn't seem to actually move
along the top length of the barrel when prying. There's either
virtually no give in the mechanical latches or it is actually solid
which was wondering if anybody here had come across a similar one and
knew...

--

On 6/9/2014 1:03 AM, gregz wrote:
wrote:
....

Any screws hidden under emblems or other.

Nope; all markings are silk-screened on or cast into the plastic; no
applied anythings...

--

On 6/9/2014 6:37 AM, David Martel wrote:
dpb,

It's already broken so you can do whatever you want to it. Often the
cord enters the housing at the base of the handle. If you carefully cut
off 1/2" of the handle then you will expose the power cord and may be
able to solder on a new cord. Fill the base of the handle with epoxy and
you are done.

Still wouldn't have sufficient to get to the switch area where need to
be to do the repair of reattaching the unbroken/repaired cord. Can
_almost_ get there w/o taking the rest apart, but not quite...

Focusing on prying apart the hair dryer isn't getting you anywhere but
after you cut off the handle base you can look inside for tabs.

I'm not yet to the stage of destroying it to save it and there's no way
to see past the handle end up the upper barrel portion that's where the
difficulty lies, anyway--it's got an innerliner around the heaters for
insulation, etc., that blocks any sight lines.

--

On 6/9/2014 12:42 AM, Bob F wrote:
....

Think about prying to move one side or the other inward, to detach the latches.
Which side you need to move inward has to be determined experimentally. All
assuming I'm right about the mechanical latches being what holds it together.

Indeed, altho so far no joy...

--

Are there any circular rings around the hot air input or output that could be removed??

On 6/9/2014 9:24 AM, wrote:
Are there any circular rings around the hot air input or output that
could be removed??

Not externally for certain; the outlet side captures a guard but it's
loose in a ring (can rotate it) so it's not the problem. The inlet side
is a screen that's split down the middle; I can pry it apart at the
bottom edge some and see nothing's between those two sections.

Internally there's a (appears to be just light cardboard) wrapper around
it, I can poke a wire behind it in places and feel no obstructions
anywhere can get to...

'Tis a puzzler...will continue to fiddle a few minutes now and again for
a while longer before more drastic action...

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...

SWMBO has a moderately expensive hair dryer from Ion Professional
Products, Model 301100 that has broken cord right at the handle.

If'en I could get it apart, I could cut a couple inches of, resolder and
it'd be good to go...there's the problem in the "if'en"...

There were two screws in the handle and a couple tiny ones at the in and
outlet screens that hold the case together. AFAICT there's nothing else
mechanical. I can split the handle and pull but the top seam and most
of that along the barrel bottom do not seem to want to separate.

On the most outside of chances, anybody's missus/daughters/whomever got
one of these buggers and managed to make a repair?

I can pry w/ a small bar and it sorta' moves the pieces but I'm feared
to try much more brute force else't it'll break in two.

Any other "secrets" have used to separate such animals? Is there any
chance't they actually spot glued these things together? The front and
rear screws were miniscule...

I repair those (wall wart transformers when they fail) They are glued
together. I squeeze them in a vise slightly and the glued areas pop apart.
Try thay..WW

--

On 6/8/2014 2:53 PM, dpb wrote:

Kudos to those w/ the "squeeze it to release mechanical catch"
suggestions. Was able to locate a likely spot for them by eventually
getting behind the wrapping barrier enough to see the length of the
joint to see where was a small internal molding. At one of those points
was then able to tell which was the hooked side...

I'd hate to be one of the ones on the assembly line putting the
pieces-parts together, though...

--

dpb wrote:
On 6/8/2014 2:53 PM, dpb wrote:

Kudos to those w/ the "squeeze it to release mechanical catch"
suggestions. Was able to locate a likely spot for them by eventually
getting behind the wrapping barrier enough to see the length of the
joint to see where was a small internal molding. At one of those
points was then able to tell which was the hooked side...

I'd hate to be one of the ones on the assembly line putting the
pieces-parts together, though...

Usually easy to put togrther. Expecially hard to get apart if you don't know the
secret.

A photo or two of the disassembled dryer with an arrow pointing to the obscure latch would be good for all of us to see and learn from (to dangle a preposition).

On 6/9/2014 9:26 PM, wrote:
A photo or two of the disassembled dryer with an arrow pointing to
the obscure latch would be good for all of us to see and learn from
(to dangle a preposition).

Well, too late now... I don't have anything very handy for doing
such, unfortunately, even if had thought of it at the time...

--

On 6/9/2014 8:42 PM, Bob F wrote:
dpb wrote:
....

I'd hate to be one of the ones on the assembly line putting the
pieces-parts together, though...

Usually easy to put togrther. Expecially hard to get apart if you don't know the
secret.

Conceptually easy, yes, but arranging the cord thru the area left for it
and ensuring sufficient room for the switch to still move w/o binding
while holding the two loose outer switch levers in the proper positions
to engage the actual switches all while ensuring the insulation wrapper
remains in place around the body was not what would care to do on a time
clock for a career...

--

On 6/10/14, 8:05 AM, dpb wrote:
On 6/9/2014 8:42 PM, Bob F wrote:
dpb wrote:
...

I'd hate to be one of the ones on the assembly line putting the
pieces-parts together, though...

Usually easy to put togrther. Expecially hard to get apart if you
don't know the
secret.

Conceptually easy, yes, but arranging the cord thru the area left for it
and ensuring sufficient room for the switch to still move w/o binding
while holding the two loose outer switch levers in the proper positions
to engage the actual switches all while ensuring the insulation wrapper
remains in place around the body was not what would care to do on a time
clock for a career...

Stitching baseballs or lacing footballs would rank up there. I
think it was the show How It's Made on the Science Channel where I saw
both those processes. The really fast people were women.

On Monday, June 9, 2014 4:12:45 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/8/2014 2:53 PM, dpb wrote:



Kudos to those w/ the "squeeze it to release mechanical catch"

suggestions. Was able to locate a likely spot for them by eventually


Glad you solved it.
My suggestion was to buy a couple similar ones at a Goodwill or thrift store and destructively disassemble.

On 6/10/2014 10:37 PM, TimR wrote:
On Monday, June 9, 2014 4:12:45 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 6/8/2014 2:53 PM, dpb wrote:



Kudos to those w/ the "squeeze it to release mechanical catch"

suggestions. Was able to locate a likely spot for them by eventually


Glad you solved it.
My suggestion was to buy a couple similar ones at a Goodwill or
thrift store and destructively disassemble.

Chuckles...

Don't know why but this one was moderately expensive and she was
particularly fond of it...somebody stole my expensive heat gun on last
consulting gig at a power plant and I've not replaced it. This one will
get hot enough that can get by on small heat shrink with it so I had
some incentive, too...

--